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Old 08-01-2013, 03:13 PM   #5761
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Originally Posted by canduran View Post
Hi there !

I am having some serious problems in stock class ( 13,5 blinky ) with my S411.I finished the last leg of Turkish Touring Series in 2nd position but it happened just by luck.Anyway, i nearly have no problems with handling but the thing is my car weights around 1350-1355 grams but somehow 1450 gr ( for example S411 sport ) cars can reach me on straights.I tried to use aggressive and fast bodies such as Chevy Kruze or not to put oil in bearings or loosen the belts as much as i can.Non of them solved my problem.Also, i tried to use plastic solid axle in the front to reduce rolling weight but it did not help.They are 100 grams heavier than my car but still they can catch me on the straights.My batteries are a bit old LRP 6200 but the cars which can chase me are using cheap turnigy batteries.
Please tell me what to do

The tires could make a difference, and some other small details as ride height, shocksprings, also not every motor is the same, at the ETS we tested several 13.5 handout motors and all of them had an different max rpm. Maybe your competetors are running on some kind of secret nuclear energy
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:14 AM   #5762
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I'm thinking of trading in my S411 on the Eryx chassis and so i've come here looking for some advice. I know there were some build issues with early kits, have these problems been fixed? Those of you that have upgraded from the original S411 to the new chassis, how would you rate it compared to the old version?
Lastly, has anyone heard of if and when there will be a Team Edition of the Eryx chassis?

Thanks guys.
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:28 AM   #5763
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There will come a update of the kit with some small changes but not as big as the s41 TE to the eryx (will be at the end of the year I heard), i updated a 411 TE at the start of the season and for me this was a BIG inprovemed over the Team edition, the car is much more consistant and easier to drive
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:07 PM   #5764
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Had first run for a little while last night, in preperation for our State titles in a month or so. Headed down to the bayside track, where last time out I managed to have the car working very well. Started out on the same settings, with the exception of a spool in the front of the car.
First few runs in practise I ran rather old Panaracer36's, so wasn't too fussed with the times being posted, and wanted to check a few setting changes and check the differences. Many changes were bodyshell (was undecided at this stage), Front gear diff (liked it), front arm sweep (2.0/1.5 blocks front blocks), and putting the bottom centre motor mount screw back in.

Main thing I wanted to check out was using Ride REX 34 tyres for the first time, as we would be using these as the control tyre for the titles. First run out on them didn't last too long, as the spur stripped on the second lap. Thankfully, just a hang over from an accident the previous run where a stock car crossed the track right in front of me going flat out on the straight... and as that was the only thing that broke, pretty impressive durability!

Main thing I found straight off with the REX's, they don't rotate the same way as the MM Rush36's I had used previously with that setup. It was strange in some way, in that is was more front end washing, than the rear being tied down.

First qualifier I chucked out the window, by doing a body swap mid run, as I wanted to confirm for sure the difference between a Speed6 and LTC... interesting findings in that whilst the Speed6 felt nicer to drive, and felt faster the LTC was quicker.. both in terms of fastest lap, and average over 7 laps (17.7s played 17.9s). I will revist this at some point when the rest of the setup is more settled, and do full runs, but for the time being the LTC is staying on

With the first run blown because of the body swap, I thought it would be fine to get a good second qualifier... urm.. no. A combination of forgetting to take the foam spacers off the front body posts, moving the rear shocks in one hole, high speed, and a big bump equated to a quite impressive back flip down the main straight... resulting in a broken rear hub before the qualifier had even started I did manage to get it all fixed and back out for the last minute of the run, which I was quite impressed with (about a 5min turnaround!), but was still struggling to get the car to rotate in the middle of the corner.

For the first final, added more bump-steer spacers, and ackerman spacers, trying to gain more steering mid-corner. This seemed like a step in the right direction, gaining in the high speed, although still losing out in the lower speed, just not being able to get through the middle quick enough. Still managed to work my way up from tenth on the grid to third, keeping my nose out of trouble, but not really having the pace to challenge the front pack.

For the second leg, moved the battery to the back of the car, and laid the front shocks in one hole. Moving the battery back was to aim to improve rotation, and the front shock position to try and give a more consistent balance to the car. Overall, it worked pretty well, improving my fastest time of the night (and working up to 4th in the leg in the process), on what are now well worn tyres. Good progress made, and have a good direction of where to take the setup next, hopefully I can put it onto sub 17s laps next time out.

Cheers
Ed
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:08 PM   #5765
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Had first run for a little while last night, Thankfully, just a hang over from an accident the previous run where a stock car crossed the track right in front of me going flat out on the straight... and as that was the only thing that broke, pretty impressive durability!

Main thing I found straight off with the REX's, they don't rotate the same way as the MM Rush36's I had used previously with that setup. It was strange in some way, in that is was more front end washing, than the rear being tied down.

First qualifier I chucked out the window, by doing a body swap mid run, as I wanted to confirm for sure the difference between a Speed6 and LTC... interesting findings in that whilst the Speed6 felt nicer to drive, and felt faster the LTC was quicker.. both in terms of fastest lap, and average over 7 laps (17.7s played 17.9s). I will revist this at some point when the rest of the setup is more settled, and do full runs, but for the time being the LTC is staying on

With the first run blown because of the body swap, I thought it would be fine to get a good second qualifier... urm.. no. A combination of forgetting to take the foam spacers off the front body posts, moving the rear shocks in one hole, high speed, and a big bump equated to a quite impressive back flip down the main straight... resulting in a broken rear hub before the qualifier had even started I did manage to get it all fixed and back out for the last minute of the run, which I was quite impressed with (about a 5min turnaround!), but was still struggling to get the car to rotate in the middle of the corner.

For the first final, added more bump-steer spacers, and ackerman spacers, trying to gain more steering mid-corner. This seemed like a step in the right direction, gaining in the high speed, although still losing out in the lower speed, just not being able to get through the middle quick enough. Still managed to work my way up from tenth on the grid to third, keeping my nose out of trouble, but not really having the pace to challenge the front pack.

For the second leg, moved the battery to the back of the car, and laid the front shocks in one hole. Moving the battery back was to aim to improve rotation, and the front shock position to try and give a more consistent balance to the car. Overall, it worked pretty well, improving my fastest time of the night (and working up to 4th in the leg in the process), on what are now well worn tyres. Good progress made, and have a good direction of where to take the setup next, hopefully I can put it onto sub 17s laps next time out.

Cheers
Ed
Found similar problem on carpet in Canberra and after a severe talk to rear ride height it settled back
yes the rexs don't rotate when attached to a spool but whats this earplug routine
sound a bit clever this and id thought of doing but was never brave enough to try.
Tell me more
Regards
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:46 AM   #5766
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Had first run for a little while last night, in preperation for our State titles in a month or so. Headed down to the bayside track, where last time out I managed to have the car working very well. Started out on the same settings, with the exception of a spool in the front of the car.
First few runs in practise I ran rather old Panaracer36's, so wasn't too fussed with the times being posted, and wanted to check a few setting changes and check the differences. Many changes were bodyshell (was undecided at this stage), Front gear diff (liked it), front arm sweep (2.0/1.5 blocks front blocks), and putting the bottom centre motor mount screw back in.

Main thing I wanted to check out was using Ride REX 34 tyres for the first time, as we would be using these as the control tyre for the titles. First run out on them didn't last too long, as the spur stripped on the second lap. Thankfully, just a hang over from an accident the previous run where a stock car crossed the track right in front of me going flat out on the straight... and as that was the only thing that broke, pretty impressive durability!

Main thing I found straight off with the REX's, they don't rotate the same way as the MM Rush36's I had used previously with that setup. It was strange in some way, in that is was more front end washing, than the rear being tied down.

First qualifier I chucked out the window, by doing a body swap mid run, as I wanted to confirm for sure the difference between a Speed6 and LTC... interesting findings in that whilst the Speed6 felt nicer to drive, and felt faster the LTC was quicker.. both in terms of fastest lap, and average over 7 laps (17.7s played 17.9s). I will revist this at some point when the rest of the setup is more settled, and do full runs, but for the time being the LTC is staying on

With the first run blown because of the body swap, I thought it would be fine to get a good second qualifier... urm.. no. A combination of forgetting to take the foam spacers off the front body posts, moving the rear shocks in one hole, high speed, and a big bump equated to a quite impressive back flip down the main straight... resulting in a broken rear hub before the qualifier had even started I did manage to get it all fixed and back out for the last minute of the run, which I was quite impressed with (about a 5min turnaround!), but was still struggling to get the car to rotate in the middle of the corner.

For the first final, added more bump-steer spacers, and ackerman spacers, trying to gain more steering mid-corner. This seemed like a step in the right direction, gaining in the high speed, although still losing out in the lower speed, just not being able to get through the middle quick enough. Still managed to work my way up from tenth on the grid to third, keeping my nose out of trouble, but not really having the pace to challenge the front pack.

For the second leg, moved the battery to the back of the car, and laid the front shocks in one hole. Moving the battery back was to aim to improve rotation, and the front shock position to try and give a more consistent balance to the car. Overall, it worked pretty well, improving my fastest time of the night (and working up to 4th in the leg in the process), on what are now well worn tyres. Good progress made, and have a good direction of where to take the setup next, hopefully I can put it onto sub 17s laps next time out.

Cheers
Ed
Thanks for all the help last night Ed, would have been nice to been a little more prepared and put down some more practice laps , the most notable difference that i found to help the rotation was replacing the grub screw in the motor mount with the normal screw, this help my car settle down a lot mid corner allowing me to carry more speed, i did run quicker in the finals on 2 run old Rides as opposed to brand spankers but that could have been me getting used to the track. Also my front diff was a bit looser than yours as i was using ofna diff lock but i want to try the earplug and oil trick at inter club , also like you said a slightly heavier shock oil with those lighter springs.
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Old 08-04-2013, 05:04 AM   #5767
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Originally Posted by JAM Racing View Post
Found similar problem on carpet in Canberra and after a severe talk to rear ride height it settled back
yes the rexs don't rotate when attached to a spool but whats this earplug routine
sound a bit clever this and id thought of doing but was never brave enough to try.
Tell me more
Regards
The earplug trick is basically using this stuff (http://www.earplugstore.com/putbudcolsof.html) broken up into small pieces, and stuffed inside the diff. Add a few drops of oil to help it all slicken up a bit (doesn't matter what oil), and makes for a really heavy front diff, that doesn't prove a problem to remove! Think the tub cost me about $5 in Foodworks (I got tub of the orange in the link) and a tub will probably do 3 diffs.

Is quite a bit heavier than 500k, closer in feel to a 2.5mil diff.

The flipping I've had before at wynnum, simply moving the rear springs back up a hole and lowering the front of the shell eliminated the problem.

As Chow mentions, big help to gain rotation was going from the grub screw to the normal screw underneath, as well as moving the battery back. Next on the list is to change the wheelbase F & R, and a springs/oil.

Ed
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:57 AM   #5768
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Just curious to people's thoughts on shock pistons. I've run 3 holes forever as that is always kit set up on most cars and I have not bothered to play with this much previously. As I normally run on bumpy tracks outdoors, my current set up is 500 cst all round. What has sparked my curiosity is we have an event coming up indoors on a billiard table smooth asphalt and talking to some locals, they are running 4 hole pistons with much heavier oil. Can someone explain their theory on this? I have ordered some 4 hole delrin pistons to test with. I am happy with my current set up but always feel like there is more... I usually refer to the hudy set up book but that is a little vague on this subject. All thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:29 PM   #5769
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Just curious to people's thoughts on shock pistons. I've run 3 holes forever as that is always kit set up on most cars and I have not bothered to play with this much previously. As I normally run on bumpy tracks outdoors, my current set up is 500 cst all round. What has sparked my curiosity is we have an event coming up indoors on a billiard table smooth asphalt and talking to some locals, they are running 4 hole pistons with much heavier oil. Can someone explain their theory on this? I have ordered some 4 hole delrin pistons to test with. I am happy with my current set up but always feel like there is more... I usually refer to the hudy set up book but that is a little vague on this subject. All thoughts are appreciated.
Obviously, more holes in the piston will make the shock for the same weight of oil, as there is more area for the oil to flow through. Hence why the need to run heavier oils to compensate.
However, one thing it does do, due to the larger hole area, is allow the oil to start flowing quicker on piston movement. This is 'pack'. The less pack, the quicker the shock can react to high-speed movement, such as bumps and so on. This is one way with our simplistic RC shocks that we can tweak high-speed damping (bump, kerbs) separately to low-speed (body control).

Personally, I would say for a smooth track, that the pack isn't so critical, and you'll probably be fine... but if it has big kerbs that unsettle a car, then give it a shot.

As a rule of thumb, I would go about 100-150wt harder with 4hole pistions. 6holes, probably be looking in the 1500-2000wt range... This is something I really want to test out again, but my last set of home made pistons were a touch off balance, so I need to get another set of Delrin pistons to play with.

HiH
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:42 PM   #5770
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Obviously, more holes in the piston will make the shock for the same weight of oil, as there is more area for the oil to flow through. Hence why the need to run heavier oils to compensate.
However, one thing it does do, due to the larger hole area, is allow the oil to start flowing quicker on piston movement. This is 'pack'. The less pack, the quicker the shock can react to high-speed movement, such as bumps and so on. This is one way with our simplistic RC shocks that we can tweak high-speed damping (bump, kerbs) separately to low-speed (body control).

Personally, I would say for a smooth track, that the pack isn't so critical, and you'll probably be fine... but if it has big kerbs that unsettle a car, then give it a shot.

As a rule of thumb, I would go about 100-150wt harder with 4hole pistions. 6holes, probably be looking in the 1500-2000wt range... This is something I really want to test out again, but my last set of home made pistons were a touch off balance, so I need to get another set of Delrin pistons to play with.

HiH
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:49 PM   #5771
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I ordered a set to give it a try. The holes are 1.0 mm if I read the specification right. If I remember correct ED drilled 1.1 in his 3 hole pistons.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:26 PM   #5772
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Torque steer... I just can't get rid of it from this car. I checked bearings, all drive trains to see if there's binding.. The only thing I can think of is weight distribution between Lt and Rt but this has not been a huge issue for me with other cars. I put 12g weight in center only. I pull the trigger hard and the car goes to left constantly. I pull the trigger slowly and the car goes straight. Some help please...
I did a search but could not find that this ever got solved. I have the same issue. I recently built 2 S411 2.0 kits. one runs perfect the other has same issue as above. Car runs straight on light to medium power. If I go full power it pulls hard to one side. Could a worn rear diff cause this?
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:32 AM   #5773
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I did a search but could not find that this ever got solved. I have the same issue. I recently built 2 S411 2.0 kits. one runs perfect the other has same issue as above. Car runs straight on light to medium power. If I go full power it pulls hard to one side. Could a worn rear diff cause this?
The racer had some really strange settings to compensate for a big chassis tweak. Although he never got back to us if it got fixed, we would assume so. A worn diff outdrive or worn blades have been known to cause torque steer issues. Also make sure the car is equalized front and back and check for tweak as well. I would think if these are new kits chances are that one shock is a little weaker than the rest.

Speaking of the shocks.....the more I think I know about shocks the more I realize I know nothing or at least it feels like it. Started to think about the shocks, oil and pistons, and trying to figure out why shocks can start off good and then start to fall off performance wise. Got me thinking if it's because of outside ambient temperatures that starts to thin the oil or is it the frequency of the piston moving that heats the inside of the shock thusly thining the oil? Would short fat shocks work better then normal diameter short shocks just because of the volume of the oil? What if we ran the normal shocks, but lowered the lower mount point on the arm? Has anyone actually shot temps of their shocks before and after a run? Idk
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:41 AM   #5774
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Team magic ran regular length shocks mounted lower on the arm in the e4. loved that car and regret selling it =(

people do recommend changing the oil fairly frequently. maybe air just gets into teh shock from the oring or bleeds through the diaphram in the top.
I would agree that temp would have something to do with it. any friction in the shock would add heat as would ambient temp. hotter oil gets thinner. so it would make sense to me to have stiffer oil with more holes in hot weather to take away the effect of a raise in oil temp. This might also prove to xrays advantage with their plastic bodied shocks, as plastic does not conduct heat. But tire warmers ect would probably still transfer heat to the shock via the aluminum upper and lower caps and shock rod.

indoors, i dont see it changing too much though im pretty lazy with my shocks. its a lot of work to refill and rebleed them properly and i usually just set them for a weekend and drive around whatever the car is doing heh. not enough time between heats.

maybe for a really big weekend, where i might have a second set of shocks, would i play with oil thickness. though i run 350cst most of the time. i like a fast reacting car. maybe a bad thing in modified though.

this year i might buy one of those muchmore shock pumps to speed up bleeding shocks in the pits.
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Old 08-09-2013, 05:57 AM   #5775
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Thanks Wishbone. I did pull out the diff. It looked like it had some wear. I also would hear a noise coming from the car when I got on the throttle, can't describe it but I think it sounded like the gears or belt slipping. The diff was also almost dry with hardly any oil. Must be leaking. I re filled it and closed it up nice and tight. I'm gonna give it another run today and see what happens. I ordered new gears and T bar that should be here Saturday. I think I may get a tweak station while I'm at it. I already have the other Hudy stuff to go with it.
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