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Old 06-27-2013, 02:00 PM   #5671
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Hi, hoping I could get some advice. I have recently got back into the hobby and have been playing around with 1/8 but decided I would like to get into 1/10 TC as there are more options for racing locally. I have a Cobra GT-e which is a great car so the S411 ERYX seems like natural choice as I have been very happy with Serpent. There is a nice track about an hour from me that runs 17.5 stock and 13.5 spec classes. Plus there is plenty of parking lot racing meetups in the area.

I have been reading through this massive thread as well as any other info I can find. 1/10 TC is way more technical and tweaky than GT8. So basically I am trying to figure out a good start point to work from. Right now i'm leaning toward a D3.5 Maxilla 13.5T, Vortex R10 Pro ESC, Futaba S9352HV (already own 4 so why not another) for electronics. I have plenty of Tekin and Castle 1/8 gear which have been great and I like but thought I might try something different. I would welcome any feed back on my choices.

My big issue is where to start on gearing, what pinion/spur combo? I know this is a loaded question but I have to start somewhere. I would be running on outdoor small to medium sized tracks. From what I can find on the internet around a 5.0 FDR would be good for starters. Not sure how to calculate backwards from there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:42 PM   #5672
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That ESC is major overkill for stock racing, you could save a few bucks there. Personally, I've got my eye on the HobbyWing V3.1 Stock Spec for stock racing next year:
http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=289

Very flexible programming features, and still handles down to 4.5T if you end up going that route.

The HV servo is not needed; you would be much better off going with a low-profile servo just so it all fits in the chassis nicely. One good old standby is the Futaba S9551.

I haven't run any 13.5 blinky, but I'm guessing you will want a 92T spur and pinions in the 40-46T range (approx 4.0-4.5 FDR). The best thing is to ask people at your particular track for a starting FDR.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:44 PM   #5673
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You'd be better served with a low profile servo. Futaba S9551(?) or BLS551, or similar.

-Mike
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:04 PM   #5674
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Thanks for the input I was considering the Futaba S9551 I will likely go that route as it keeps coming up. Im guessing it will feel as quick as the S9352HV does on my Cobra which I like. I was leaning toward the R10 pro because of the field programmer had an LCD screen. I use mostly MACs and drudging out the Windows laptop to the track to tweak is a pain. Im used to the RX8 two button thing and have a hotwire but always wanted a better option without having to use the PC. That was worth the extra money. Im assuming from what I can tell it is a very nice ESC, pretty reliable, and small too which is a plus.
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:16 PM   #5675
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HobbyWing uses a similar LCD programmer. In fact, it may be the identical programmer as I understand HW is the OEM for certain Orion products.
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:37 PM   #5676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
HobbyWing uses a similar LCD programmer. In fact, it may be the identical programmer as I understand HW is the OEM for certain Orion products.
Thanks thats good to know, I will check it out.
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:39 PM   #5677
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Plug for savox. Running the same 1251mg for two years now. Three different touring cars. Hobbywing 3.1 even if its a stock spec is prob still overkill for stock. Maybe try the juststock or extreme stock.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:27 PM   #5678
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Plug for savox. Running the same 1251mg for two years now. Three different touring cars. Hobbywing 3.1 even if its a stock spec is prob still overkill for stock. Maybe try the juststock or extreme stock.
Savox does make a nice servo but I have a bunch of Futaba's with no issues and they have taken some pretty severe beatings on occasion.

I may want to run mod in future so that is another reason for the overkill. Is there any reason it will not work for spec? I would prefer to just go ahead and get the best one now and buy once. Money not really an issue in this case. That being said is there a better choice?
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:28 PM   #5679
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Trying to find out if any one else has noticed the hole alignment is out on the engine mount and lay shaft
I have converted a TE and also built the Eryx and both bottom decks I had to elongate the holes to take out the tweak



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Old 06-27-2013, 09:20 PM   #5680
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Im trying to do the math on the gear ratio's and FDR. Need Help.

The rear differential ratio is 1.8

92 spur / 46 pinion = 2 x internal ratio. The internal ratio is where im stuck. To get this im supposed to take the number of teeth on the differential spool pulley divided by the number of teeth on the layshaft pulleys. I think the number of teeth on the layshaft pulley is 19 but have no idea how many are on the differential spool pulley. Im thinking it is 38T which would give me an FDR of 4.0. Is this correct? Can anyone help me with the math? I was also hoping to plug the numbers in to a calculator to estimate top speed if possible.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:54 PM   #5681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bhodi11 View Post
Im trying to do the math on the gear ratio's and FDR. Need Help.

The rear differential ratio is 1.8

92 spur / 46 pinion = 2 x internal ratio. The internal ratio is where im stuck. To get this im supposed to take the number of teeth on the differential spool pulley divided by the number of teeth on the layshaft pulleys. I think the number of teeth on the layshaft pulley is 19 but have no idea how many are on the differential spool pulley. Im thinking it is 38T which would give me an FDR of 4.0. Is this correct? Can anyone help me with the math? I was also hoping to plug the numbers in to a calculator to estimate top speed if possible.
From the Eryx part list:
401359 Pully solid axle 38T
401360 Pully middle 19T + spacer (3)

So you're correct, 38 / 19 = 2.0.

Edit: And internal * spur / pinion = 2.0 * 92 / 46 = 4.0

I can't help you with top speed, though.

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Old 06-27-2013, 10:05 PM   #5682
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spur/pinion x 2= FDR
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:39 PM   #5683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
From the Eryx part list:
401359 Pully solid axle 38T
401360 Pully middle 19T + spacer (3)

So you're correct, 38 / 19 = 2.0.

Edit: And internal * spur / pinion = 2.0 * 92 / 46 = 4.0

I can't help you with top speed, though.

-Mike
Cool, always nice to know I can still do math haha!

So using this website http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

if I enter 2 at the top under "Front/Rear Differential Gear Ratio" and fill in the rest. I get a theoretical top speed of 65mph. Does that sound about right for a 4600kv motor on 2S lipo with 92 spur / 46 pinion? The real reason im trying to figure this out is so I can run a couple setups. I plan to get a second identical setup for my son who is 6. He mostly parking lot races with me and does very well with the DM1e I got him which I have set to run about 45 mph. Same with an 8.2e buggy. I want to speed him up as he gets better and hopefully he will be able to do some competitive racing at the local tracks down the road. He is a pretty technical 6yo as we have built the 4 kits we have together. Way better than Legos IMO. Thanks again for the help!
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:19 AM   #5684
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I cant be the only person who has noticed this but i had to put a 0.25mm endplay shim on all my axles between the bearings to keep them from compressing together when the wheel nut is applied. anyone else found the wheels to bind when you crank em tight? another small thing to add to the TC design bucket list for me! precision axles.
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:55 AM   #5685
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Default Un explained tweek in the chassi

[QUOTE=Madmaxaus;12296575]Trying to find out if any one else has noticed the hole alignment is out on the engine mount and lay shaft
I have converted a TE and also built the Eryx and both bottom decks I had to elongate the holes to take out the tweak

In my Eryx that I rund indoor I have a tweek that I did not find any explanation to. I did not losen the engine mount, but the bulkehed and toe block's

I bought I new chassie to bolt on for the indoor season. But that might not do the trick if I read your post..
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