R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-14-2013, 03:27 AM   #5446
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 18
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
I loved Izmir!!!! I didn't know you guys have that huge track! Should've visited there! Enjoy the racing. As far as you meet 4.0 FDR, there's only minute difference between the size of spurs. Go with whatever spur you already have. Usually 72-100 spurs are better because you can take out your motor through the holes in the spur gear. If it goes below 72, it might get difficult to do that. Stock spur is 84ish if I remember correctly so stick with that. Then the pinion would be 42 to get to 4.0 FDR. Have fun and say my hello to Izmir!
Stock spur is 84t 64p...

I couldn't quite fit a 42t pinion in there ...

4.0 FDR would require spur swap ... unless I'm doing something wrong, in which case please enlighten me.
biped is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2013, 05:51 AM   #5447
Tech Master
 
heretic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: europe
Posts: 1,060
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
I resented not the car but the fact that I bought a used car. Then I got fooled again by another dude here on a purchase of supposedly newly built NT1. With money and time spent on those two used cars, I could've built several new cars. I got both cars right now and they run beautifully fortunately.

Same reason I try to stay away from used cars. Of the 10+ cars I bought used, not a single one was built properly. Makes you take the criticism a lot of models receive on forums with a grain of salt....
__________________
I love wedge bodies. I love dish wheels.
heretic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2013, 08:37 AM   #5448
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,080
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by heretic View Post
Same reason I try to stay away from used cars. Of the 10+ cars I bought used, not a single one was built properly. Makes you take the criticism a lot of models receive on forums with a grain of salt....
+10
__________________
Capricorn LAB C03
snuvet75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2013, 08:57 AM   #5449
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,080
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by biped View Post
Stock spur is 84t 64p...

I couldn't quite fit a 42t pinion in there ...

4.0 FDR would require spur swap ... unless I'm doing something wrong, in which case please enlighten me.
Isn't the stock 48P?? I'm pretty sure it's 48P. Double check. Anyway, yeah 84T spur + 42T pinion sounds big. Here are your options:
1. The most commonly used spur is 48P 78T. So get 48P 39T pinion to get 4.0 FDR with that 78T spur.
2. Get 64P 96T spur(most common) with 64P 48T pinion. For the same teeth number, 64P gears are a lot smaller than 48P so they will fit to your car.

64P is quieter and smoother but the difference in performance is minimal between 48P and 64P so it's up to you. I personally use 48P only because I have a bunch of 48P pinions already but as you said, it's hard to acheive lower FDR with that. It's a lot easier to strip gears with 64P since the teeth are freaking small LOL.

Just so you know, as I mentioned earlier, make sure to get the spur with big holes so you can take out motor w/o taking out spur. In that sense, if you want to use 64P spur, I would get a bit bigger one thatn 96P since the size of spur is iffy to do that. 100-104 should do it.
And another, get original serpent, xray, kimbrough, ARC, CRC, or Precision spurs. They all have 6 holes around the center hole which is mandatory to fit to your car. Good luck!
__________________
Capricorn LAB C03
snuvet75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2013, 11:55 AM   #5450
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 18
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Isn't the stock 48P?? I'm pretty sure it's 48P. Double check. Anyway, yeah 84T spur + 42T pinion sounds big. Here are your options:
48p of course, not sure why wrote 64... late night post. TY.
biped is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2013, 03:03 PM   #5451
Tech Champion
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 8,732
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
IMO the car does not need much but there are a few cheap upgrades that will help. Some of the below suggestions may already be on the car. See if he has any of the option toe blocks as having the 1.5 for the front is a must and having the 3.5 and 2.5 for the rear is a good option to have. It may already have a V2 steering plate on the car if not you will need one to do the steering mod on the front to get any decent Ackerman adjustment.

Id buy

The new V2 composite diff for the rear

the new low steering posts and v2 steering plate(this plate may be on the car already) to modify the steering so it is lower like the new car.

See if he has some spare shock pistons so you can run either 4 or 6 hole pistons( drill out some 3 holes to get 6) as the car likes this set up outdoors.

You will need hard arms if they are not on the car already.

You want an LTCR body.

A 1.6 front bar would also be a nice option.

I'm sure you have HPI silver and pink springs to run.

About $80 of parts from rc mushroom there

PS I only run outdoors 17.5 as we got no rug in Australia. Ive found the stock car likes a harder spring, oil and bar combo. I will run 1.6/1.4 bars, pink silver or gold silver springs with 500 or 600 oil front 500 rear with 3/4 holes or 2000/1500 with 6 holes.

The old car does lack a bit of rotation and direction change but is by no means uncompetitive.
Received the car and it has everything you mentioned. When you say V2 diff are you refering to the gear diff? The car came with 2 of them. Not too sure how to tell if it's the original or V2. It has all the HB springs along with all the Serpent springs. I didn't see extra shock pistons though. I quickly dug through stuff so maybe I'll go back and take a slower inventory. Thanks again for the suggestions. Time to go racing
__________________
REMEMBER THE GOOD OLE DAYS..........THEY'RE NEVER COMING BACK SO WE'RE STUCK WITH THE MESS IN FRONT OF US!!!!
STLNLST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2013, 03:47 AM   #5452
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,171
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Received the car and it has everything you mentioned. When you say V2 diff are you refering to the gear diff? The car came with 2 of them. Not too sure how to tell if it's the original or V2. It has all the HB springs along with all the Serpent springs. I didn't see extra shock pistons though. I quickly dug through stuff so maybe I'll go back and take a slower inventory. Thanks again for the suggestions. Time to go racing
Easiest way to check the diff's, is pull them apart. The V1 and V2 diff's use different steel gears, the V1's have a coarser profile, without a flat on the top of the pinion gears. You'll also probably find that there are only 2gears in the diff as well, this is usual for the steel gears... need to run a heavier oil mind (3K is probably a good starting point for 17.5NT)

Both use a similar case, although there are some small differences to accomodate the gear change, and improve the sealing. The newest diff is the Composite geared version (available as set 401592), which uses 4 plastic gears, Alloy outdrives, and a third version of the casing, which is easy to identify as it has two longer "lugs" (for want of a better term) on the outside of the casing. The longer lugs are to accommodate the cross pin for the plastic gears, as the steel gears used a countersunk screw into the outdrive.

Overall, the new diff is close to 15g lighter than the older one... and very smooth to boot. If you can, I would certainly add one of these to the list of parts, and save the steel versions for a front diff if you need it.

One other part that might be worth getting as well (if the car doesn't have it... which is might do by the sound of it) is the one-piece motor mount (401451). I flat prefer the feeling of the car with this mount, and you can use it with the original centre bracket to have a number of different mount options that affect the feel of the car. The standard one-piece setup tends to give more rear grip, whilst the one-piece with the original centre bracket can give a mount similar in setup to the BD7, and more rotation mid to exit. Have a look on page 7 of the Eryx manual to see what I mean

Last thing to mention, without trying to step on Benzaah's suggestions... but for the arms, I would suggest getting the mediums arms (404159 for fronts and 404160 for rears)... BUT they have to be the new mediums, not the old, which confusingly, use the same part numbers
The old mediums are floppy and not very stiff, but the new versions are about 1mm thicker, have different bracing, and different plastic, with the result being that they are stiffer than the Hards! Seem to work better on track too, although the old Hards are by no means poor.

HiH
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | Hobbywing |

Last edited by TryHard; 04-15-2013 at 04:04 AM.
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2013, 08:56 AM   #5453
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 121
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hello everyone,

Anyone is using one dcj different from the serpent one??
I am not very confident of the original and i was looking in tthe aftersales market but I don't find anything

regards
jimjav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2013, 09:03 AM   #5454
Tech Adept
 
whityboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Belgium
Posts: 168
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjav View Post
Hello everyone,

Anyone is using one dcj different from the serpent one??
I am not very confident of the original and i was looking in tthe aftersales market but I don't find anything

regards
Drove xray for years with the dcj broke some pins and the body from the dcj was gone in +- 8 months
never changed a part in 1 year on the serpent dcj.
__________________
VBC support team manager EU
whityboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2013, 09:06 AM   #5455
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 121
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I have too much play in the coupler in only 5-6 months running 10.5T blinky, tha's why I was thinkling on purchasing one different

regards
jimjav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2013, 12:00 PM   #5456
Tech Champion
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 8,732
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Easiest way to check the diff's, is pull them apart. The V1 and V2 diff's use different steel gears, the V1's have a coarser profile, without a flat on the top of the pinion gears. You'll also probably find that there are only 2gears in the diff as well, this is usual for the steel gears... need to run a heavier oil mind (3K is probably a good starting point for 17.5NT)

Both use a similar case, although there are some small differences to accomodate the gear change, and improve the sealing. The newest diff is the Composite geared version (available as set 401592), which uses 4 plastic gears, Alloy outdrives, and a third version of the casing, which is easy to identify as it has two longer "lugs" (for want of a better term) on the outside of the casing. The longer lugs are to accommodate the cross pin for the plastic gears, as the steel gears used a countersunk screw into the outdrive.

Overall, the new diff is close to 15g lighter than the older one... and very smooth to boot. If you can, I would certainly add one of these to the list of parts, and save the steel versions for a front diff if you need it.

One other part that might be worth getting as well (if the car doesn't have it... which is might do by the sound of it) is the one-piece motor mount (401451). I flat prefer the feeling of the car with this mount, and you can use it with the original centre bracket to have a number of different mount options that affect the feel of the car. The standard one-piece setup tends to give more rear grip, whilst the one-piece with the original centre bracket can give a mount similar in setup to the BD7, and more rotation mid to exit. Have a look on page 7 of the Eryx manual to see what I mean

Last thing to mention, without trying to step on Benzaah's suggestions... but for the arms, I would suggest getting the mediums arms (404159 for fronts and 404160 for rears)... BUT they have to be the new mediums, not the old, which confusingly, use the same part numbers
The old mediums are floppy and not very stiff, but the new versions are about 1mm thicker, have different bracing, and different plastic, with the result being that they are stiffer than the Hards! Seem to work better on track too, although the old Hards are by no means poor.

HiH
Ed
Thanks for the detailed info. If my memory serves me....you had a dedicated page a while back on the Tamiya 415 correct??? If this is you do you still put pages like that together? I really like the quality of this car. Such a shame that I'm only running this for this one event. I see they have plans for an off road car soon. Will be keeping a close eye out for that as 2wd buggy is what I run these days. Can't wait to run this car though. The last two club races I ran I used a TCX. These final two will be with the S411 and I'll make up my mind on which one I'm taking to the race. I have a feeling I'm on the right track with this car
__________________
REMEMBER THE GOOD OLE DAYS..........THEY'RE NEVER COMING BACK SO WE'RE STUCK WITH THE MESS IN FRONT OF US!!!!
STLNLST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2013, 12:04 PM   #5457
Tech Addict
 
mxgregg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 610
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Thanks for the detailed info. If my memory serves me....you had a dedicated page a while back on the Tamiya 415 correct??? If this is you do you still put pages like that together? I really like the quality of this car. Such a shame that I'm only running this for this one event. I see they have plans for an off road car soon. Will be keeping a close eye out for that as 2wd buggy is what I run these days. Can't wait to run this car though. The last two club races I ran I used a TCX. These final two will be with the S411 and I'll make up my mind on which one I'm taking to the race. I have a feeling I'm on the right track with this car
What did you think of the TCX?
__________________
CRG Road Rebel stock moto 125
Birel Q31 Briggs LO 206
mxgregg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2013, 12:39 PM   #5458
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Aurora, CO
Posts: 745
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

I'd like to thank JohnyWishbone on here for the help he provided at the MHIC this past week with my S411 LE. I'll write a full race report later but he transformed a car from me being scared to turn the wheel due to traction rolls to one of the better handling cars on the track. I wish I could have gotten better results but am very happy with the way it worked and am patiently waiting for the next race with it....even though the MHIC finished yesterday day and I've already made the 13 hour drive home. :-)
__________________
John Barr
On-Road: VBC WildFireD08; VBC Lightning10; VBC Lightning12; VBC Lightning10-235mm
Off-Road: Not likely
Special thanks to EMRFactory and VBC Racing.
linkless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2013, 01:03 PM   #5459
Tech Elite
 
orcadigital's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 2,145
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjav View Post
Hello everyone,

Anyone is using one dcj different from the serpent one??
I am not very confident of the original and i was looking in tthe aftersales market but I don't find anything

regards
I have original DCJ's on both of my LE's (been on since the first build) and they have held up better then any other brand I have used on other cars (Spec R, Xray, ArrowMax, TRF, AE). They are becoming a little loose on one car, but I have a year+ running everythinf from 25.5 VTA to 17.5 boosted with a couple runs now with a 5.5 in it. Most durable little buggers I have ever used, and I have never greased them. Original heat shrink is still in tact.
__________________
Desoto Racing * Serpent America * Boca Bearings

"I was doing fine until about mid-corner when I ran out of talent."
orcadigital is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2013, 01:07 PM   #5460
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,080
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjav View Post
Hello everyone,

Anyone is using one dcj different from the serpent one??
I am not very confident of the original and i was looking in tthe aftersales market but I don't find anything

regards
It's 46mm in length and Tamiya has the same length. TQ RC racing has a product for Tamiya. That should fit. I have one for my xray T3 from TQ racing and it's been well so far but it's been only a month so hard to tell. The DJC that I have on my Eryx is original and quality seems superior to the TQ product. But again, I only have limited experience. I'd buy an original one unless you're in a very tight budget to the point that you can't afford to spend another 30-40 dollars.
__________________
Capricorn LAB C03
snuvet75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Batu Kawan Rc Track Tongga Malaysian R/C Racers 10418 06-28-2016 11:34 PM
DRCW Raceway Chesapeake, VA // Asphalt / Indoor Off Road / Outdoor Off Road stiltskin Racing Forum 10278 11-14-2014 07:39 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:38 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0