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Old 04-08-2013, 03:19 AM   #5416
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Really? Thats strange.. I can get the car happily low enough with them, even less than 5mm.
How much droop do you have in the front? Are you sure that the shocks are long enough and not limiting the height?

EDIT - just checked my car, I've got 2 full turns on the adjustment coller to get to 5mm front height with the blues, on MuchMore tyres. Thats using outer hole on the arm, hole 4 on the tower, 11mm shock length (as per the manual directions), and 5 on the droop gauge. Even going to 6 it doesn't limit the height.
Front droop is 6. The problem is with Ride 32 tires (65mm). With the new ETS Ride 34 REX tires (63mm) its fine! I will check everything again when I come home tonight maybe I missed something.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:38 AM   #5417
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Front droop is 6. The problem is with Ride 32 tires (65mm). With the new ETS Ride 34 REX tires (63mm) its fine! I will check everything again when I come home tonight maybe I missed something.
Yeah, that would probably account for it. The MuchMores are closer to the REX's than the RE's.
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:00 AM   #5418
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S411 Team Edition. NIB. moving. $330 shipped continental USA. Will ship internationally with agreed upon postage costs. text me 518-495-0703
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:07 AM   #5419
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Yeah, that would probably account for it. The MuchMores are closer to the REX's than the RE's.
Yes I think it’s the tire diameters that give this disproportion.

I see you use the stiffening screws in the shaft holder and no screw in the motor mount! Didn’t see any comments on that does the car work better with this configuration on asfalt?

Thanks, Lojz
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:36 AM   #5420
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Yes I think it’s the tire diameters that give this disproportion.

I see you use the stiffening screws in the shaft holder and no screw in the motor mount! Didn’t see any comments on that does the car work better with this configuration on asfalt?

Thanks, Lojz
When I first got the car, as per my TE, I used option 2 (less flex, single front screw) for the motor mount, but I have found that option 1 has been working better recently. Locks the rear in a little more, so can lean harder on the car all the way through the turn ,which given that the ERYX has more steering than the TE, makes the car more consistent on low-med grip tracks.

Option 2, gives more rotation in the middle, and can be difficult to hang onto with faster motors. However, would certainly be looking at this again for higher grip.

I actually think the descriptions of 'more' or 'less' flex is a little bit mis-leading. What the changes do, is move the flex point around. Option 1 has a more rearward flex point, whilst option 2 is further forward... moving that flex point, is what IMO, affects the car more. It is a subtle change though, and one you can do without needing to take out the motor or top deck off, so worth giving it a try

HiH
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:35 AM   #5421
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:48 PM   #5422
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i need a new engine for my nt1 so i might be parting with an s411 if someone wants a decent roller. its a v1/2 whatever but has a bunch of te stuff. notably the steering and most of the plastics are from the TE. the cars look identical aside from the chassis plate, top deck, shocks used and the motor mounts.

probably gonna want somewhere in the $250 range. indoor and outdoor chassis, a few arms and stuff.
trying to sell locally first but if someone wants a decent roller ill put it back together quicker lol.
I can only run mod twice/year. wanna buy a $450 engine and $170 pipe. makes sense to drop the second serpent.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:36 AM   #5423
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Hi, I am not sure if this has been covered but I searched for it and came up empty.

I have a Serpant S411 and I also have a Xray T2 008 and a Sakura Zero, My dilemma is STEERING percentage!

Both my Xray and Sakura have very tight turning radius's, however my 411 is horrible! I would estimate that the (Xray/Sakura) cars have a 4 foot radius while the Serpent has close to 8 eight feet, maybe a bit under but that is about right. I cannot compete on my local track with this terrible steering radius. HELP... BTW all cars have very high end servos the Zero has the cheapest the S411 has a:
Bls551 Futaba 130$
Torque: 102 oz-in (7.4 kg-cm) @ 4.8V
128 oz-in (9.2 kg-cm) @ 6V
Speed: 0.13 sec/60° @ 4.8V
0.10 sec/60° @ 6V

I am using a Viper VTX10 ESC and Speed passion sensored 6.5t motor, ALL brand new everything. I ran the car for ten minutes getting steering lined and was blown away by crappy steering... HELP! I hope there is a kit to tighten the steering.....
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:58 AM   #5424
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Just a thought but maybe my issue is the front diff. It seems as though the diff fluid is too thick because when you turn one wheel, instead of turning the other wheel the opposite way it turns it the same way and also turns the drive train. It is not a locked diff, if I turn it very slow it turns the other wheel the opposite way. I bought this car barely used and assembled on eBay. Every used car I buy has friggin' issues! Steering, Drivetrain-Diff's, Overheating ESC's-Motors, Nitros never ever, ever, ever, run right (I don't care if it a Nova, RB, Picco, Lrp, I have bought every lemon there is) etc etc etc... I just want a decent friggin' car to finish a race once in a while.

BTW I did win the Polar Cup Paved Championship series this past weekend with my Kyosho GT2 Mamba Monster with my special Icky Sticky tires. That was the second car I ever bought and it was my third backup, good thing I brought it along...
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:39 AM   #5425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustinPeace View Post
Hi, I am not sure if this has been covered but I searched for it and came up empty.

I have a Serpant S411 and I also have a Xray T2 008 and a Sakura Zero, My dilemma is STEERING percentage!

Both my Xray and Sakura have very tight turning radius's, however my 411 is horrible! I would estimate that the (Xray/Sakura) cars have a 4 foot radius while the Serpent has close to 8 eight feet, maybe a bit under but that is about right. I cannot compete on my local track with this terrible steering radius. HELP... BTW all cars have very high end servos the Zero has the cheapest the S411 has a:
Bls551 Futaba 130$
Torque: 102 oz-in (7.4 kg-cm) @ 4.8V
128 oz-in (9.2 kg-cm) @ 6V
Speed: 0.13 sec/60° @ 4.8V
0.10 sec/60° @ 6V

I am using a Viper VTX10 ESC and Speed passion sensored 6.5t motor, ALL brand new everything. I ran the car for ten minutes getting steering lined and was blown away by crappy steering... HELP! I hope there is a kit to tighten the steering.....
First thing to do... with the car on a stand, can you get the steering knuckle to hit the c-hub at full lock?
If not, crank up the EPA on the transmitter. Serpents use quite a long horn compared to some cars, so you may need to take the EPA up. I know that on my Stock car that has a Savox servo, I need to run 150% on the throw to get full lock, whilst my Sanwa equipped mod car needs at most 115%... so that's another factor to consider.

I doubt it will be the front diff, sounds like you have a heavy oil in the front diff there, which is option to make the car easier to drive. Let us know how you get on checking the geometry for full lock, there are a couple of techniques for setting up the steering as well once you've done that.

HiH
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:48 AM   #5426
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So, with the 2012 Worlds people where trying shocks with 6 holes and heavier oil, cause Hara did this. Are you guy's still running this, or did you go back to the normal 3/4 holes and arround 500CST?

Regards Robert
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:01 AM   #5427
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So, with the 2012 Worlds people where trying shocks with 6 holes and heavier oil, cause Hara did this. Are you guy's still running this, or did you go back to the normal 3/4 holes and arround 500CST?

Regards Robert
On my TE, I really liked the 6hole with a heavier oil combination (1500wt, Losi80 or 90). I've yet to try it on my Eryx though, mainly due to all the other changes on the car, and wanted to keep some consistency across the settings.

I will say that 4hole/500wt has been recommended to me, and I found a good improvement in the car in switching from the 3 to the 4 hole pistons at the last meeting, mainly in bump control. So for a starting setting, I would go with 4holes from the outset, certainly outdoors.

HiH
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:15 AM   #5428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustinPeace View Post
Hi, I am not sure if this has been covered but I searched for it and came up empty.

I have a Serpant S411 and I also have a Xray T2 008 and a Sakura Zero, My dilemma is STEERING percentage!

Both my Xray and Sakura have very tight turning radius's, however my 411 is horrible! I would estimate that the (Xray/Sakura) cars have a 4 foot radius while the Serpent has close to 8 eight feet, maybe a bit under but that is about right. I cannot compete on my local track with this terrible steering radius. HELP... BTW all cars have very high end servos the Zero has the cheapest the S411 has a:
Bls551 Futaba 130$
Torque: 102 oz-in (7.4 kg-cm) @ 4.8V
128 oz-in (9.2 kg-cm) @ 6V
Speed: 0.13 sec/60° @ 4.8V
0.10 sec/60° @ 6V

I am using a Viper VTX10 ESC and Speed passion sensored 6.5t motor, ALL brand new everything. I ran the car for ten minutes getting steering lined and was blown away by crappy steering... HELP! I hope there is a kit to tighten the steering.....
Check settings on the radio and look at EPA and Dual Rate. My Serpent turns as tight as any of them, and in well less then 8 feet. It does not change with a spool so the diff should not be the cause. If you can't make the knuckles hit the c-hubs then the issue is not mechanical related to the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
So, with the 2012 Worlds people where trying shocks with 6 holes and heavier oil, cause Hara did this. Are you guy's still running this, or did you go back to the normal 3/4 holes and arround 500CST?

Regards Robert
I am still running it and love it. This is indoor carpet, smaller track, light springs (13.5 and 12.5 RSD) and AE 60wt. We do have our fair share of bumps and redid the layout to pretty tight and technical. Car carves the corners nicely. This is original shocks (pre TE) from the LE kit.
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:26 PM   #5429
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Hi,

I looking to get a new car after having a 12-18 months out of racing. I had the first S411 and I'll be honest hated it and couldn't get it to drive consistent, I ended up trying thinner chassis, top deck, arms etc and it wasn't just me at my local track others struggled with them. So I went back to Xray.

Now I'm looking at the new ERYX version, so what have they changed ? I see the steering linkage is change, the original had a load of slop.

The other thing I had trouble with is the links, they were just too stiff to adjust and they just popped of all the time, tried grease etc.

Is it better now ? As I'd like to give it a try again.

Thanks.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:23 PM   #5430
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So has anyone run the new version? Im between the T4 and that one thoughts?
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