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Old 03-18-2013, 11:25 AM   #5356
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What is everyone using for servo savers?

I can't stand the horns anymore, one tap and they're stripped.

The xray tc one works but limits steering throw by quite a bit.
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:30 AM   #5357
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What is everyone using for servo savers?

I can't stand the horns anymore, one tape and they're stripped.

The xray tc one works but limits steering throw by quite a bit.
I use Tamiya #51000 with the 3racing 18mm horn:
http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4113

Very close to the same length as the kit horn.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:36 PM   #5358
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Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn View Post
What is everyone using for servo savers?

I can't stand the horns anymore, one tap and they're stripped.

The xray tc one works but limits steering throw by quite a bit.
John, I run the 4 spring Xray servo saver, just removing the material on the right side so as to get full lock to lock steering if needed.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:06 PM   #5359
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ive been using standard 1/12 servo savers for the most part. not ellegant but they work.
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:04 AM   #5360
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i realized i made a couple mistakes in my posted setup so i edited my post to include the correct setup. I originally had the wrong rear shock position now it has the correct one.
So Jeff, I'm debating between Eryx vs T4 vs BD7 to buy. I know you had Spec R1 some time ago too. Reading posting about Spec R1, it seems that it could be a big headache off of trying to save some bucks. So I dropped the idea. I own T3 '10 and it's getting old and getting behind. What can you say is better about Eryx than the other competitors like T4 or BD7?
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:19 AM   #5361
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Don't you think it oversteers to much with more droop back than front? i have been struggeling with alot of oversteering(rear end very loose at corner exit) and i readjustet droop from 6F/5R to 5F/6R today and suddenly my S411 was locked up in the rear not loose at all it was driving on rails i'm running ride hight 5mmFront and 5,5mmRear and.I tried all sorts of setup adjustment's on the rear end before this.
Elli, you mean downstop when you're saying droops right?
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:21 AM   #5362
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
So Jeff, I'm debating between Eryx vs T4 vs BD7 to buy. I know you had Spec R1 some time ago too. Reading posting about Spec R1, it seems that it could be a big headache off of trying to save some bucks. So I dropped the idea. I own T3 '10 and it's getting old and getting behind. What can you say is better about Eryx than the other competitors like T4 or BD7?
Good Question, for me the spec-r was a great car but the Eryx is flat out more consistent. as for the BD7 and the T4 i have not had those cars, but have seen and know people that do have them. the bd7 is a nice car as well as the T4. but for me it comes down to the little stuff. all three cars are superior quality to the rest of the field. i feel the serpent and xray surpass the BD7 in terms of quality tho. BD7 is like any other car out there. but where the xray and serpent stand out is the lower CG. that they are trying to achieve going with the shorter shocks and towers. but here is what i like best about the ERYX that the xray is lacking. True floating servo mount, spring steel spool outdrives that are double pinned to the spool, aluminum shocks. narrow chassis , ability to tune the motor mount via standoffs as a kit standard. amazing kit build (xrays have excellent kit builds as well) . the ability to use standard length springs is a big plus! Hell I even like the ball stud and ball cup combo. no options ar needed to be competitive. The diff is also very nice. no leaks to report and still very smooth.

like i said its the little things that count.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:37 AM   #5363
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Finally ran my new Serpent Eryx today.

Quite impressed at its drivability out of the box but the car suffers from more understeer than I would like during slow on-power corners.



Will spend some time playing around with the set up and see how it goes.

My old ride (Xray T3'12) was a bit easier to drive but the Eryx seem to handle fast corners more confidently.

Here is a vid of our track... I had no involvement in it but I am super proud of it, especially as the RC community in the country does not exceed 50 people.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMqqcU_VlM0

P.s. Another Eryx crashed on its first day and broke the upper deck into three pieces >.< You would make a killing selling upperdecks in Brunei now. Everyone is breaking them left right and centre.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:25 AM   #5364
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paolo morganti running eletric TC
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:40 PM   #5365
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Next on my list to try is short wheel base. Having built the car with all shims forward at the front and a 2/4 fr spacing in the rear I'm noticing a lot of sweep in the drive shafts and shocks. I've fixed the shock issue with 1mm of shim under each of the bottom mounts but I'm wondering if this driveshaft angle is detrimental to handling at all? I had no issues running the car 3/1 front and 3/3 rear with the same arm sweep in the front and rear and I figure serpent would have tested the car with the extremes of the cars set up range and not given us the option to run it if it was bad.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:00 AM   #5366
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Elli, you mean downstop when you're saying droops right?
yes that's correct
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:37 AM   #5367
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A bit of confusion by me on setup. The V1 manual states using inverted suspension blocks on the front rear with 4mm spacers underneath. Some of the setups use 0.5 or 1mm under the hinge pin blocks. I assume the hinge pin block is the same as the suspension block and by using 1mm do they imply using 4mm + 1mm under the front rear?

Thanks in advance for any help
Andy 17.5 blinky VTA (a local thing due to large track)
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:33 AM   #5368
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Originally Posted by andyw2 View Post
A bit of confusion by me on setup. The V1 manual states using inverted suspension blocks on the front rear with 4mm spacers underneath. Some of the setups use 0.5 or 1mm under the hinge pin blocks. I assume the hinge pin block is the same as the suspension block and by using 1mm do they imply using 4mm + 1mm under the front rear?

Thanks in advance for any help
Andy 17.5 blinky VTA (a local thing due to large track)
3MM is the 0 point on the front rear block.

If you are matching 1 MM front front shim under the block then the front rear would need 4.
If you are matching .5 MM front front shim under the block then the front rear would need 3.5
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:44 AM   #5369
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Serpent America
website is down
need to place an order, any other options to order parts?

i need a EYRX chassis, #401590
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:00 PM   #5370
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Serpent America
website is down
need to place an order, any other options to order parts?

i need a EYRX chassis, #401590
try stormerhobbies.com or amainhobbies.com

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