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Old 03-12-2013, 10:10 PM   #5326
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I am really interested in this car and wanted to know the Pro's and Con's, performance of the car etc... Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:15 PM   #5327
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Anyone in the US have spare parts for the ERYX yet? I'm looking for a diff and split blocks.

Thanks,
Jim
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:21 AM   #5328
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Hey guys,

Another local and I were testing different diff oils last weekend and we came to the conclusion the amount of oil in the diff can make the diff feel different even though it may have the same cst oil in it. I'd like to put out there an idea regarding diff building and the consistency we could achieve by having a standard measure to fill to rather than a vauge line in the manual. Some of you more hardcore tech heads may already do this. Xray have instructions with the weight of the diff half with oil in it as a way of building them consistently. I want to see if some of you guys can weigh your diff halfs so we can compare how much oil we are putting in them. I am most likely guilty of slightly under filling my diffs whereas my mate will often over fill them to the point they will weep a little when putting together. This may take a while to compile the test data but next time you build a diff and you have some scales handy please weigh the half and post it up here. I will have some data up after Sunday when my next lot of diff building will take place.

Regards Benzaah
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Old 03-15-2013, 03:24 AM   #5329
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Hey guys,

Another local and I were testing different diff oils last weekend and we came to the conclusion the amount of oil in the diff can make the diff feel different even though it may have the same cst oil in it. I'd like to put out there an idea regarding diff building and the consistency we could achieve by having a standard measure to fill to rather than a vauge line in the manual. Some of you more hardcore tech heads may already do this. Xray have instructions with the weight of the diff half with oil in it as a way of building them consistently. I want to see if some of you guys can weigh your diff halfs so we can compare how much oil we are putting in them. I am most likely guilty of slightly under filling my diffs whereas my mate will often over fill them to the point they will weep a little when putting together. This may take a while to compile the test data but next time you build a diff and you have some scales handy please weigh the half and post it up here. I will have some data up after Sunday when my next lot of diff building will take place.

Regards Benzaah
Maybe use a syringe for a more exact measurement?
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:05 PM   #5330
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Originally Posted by ChadB. View Post
I am really interested in this car and wanted to know the Pro's and Con's, performance of the car etc... Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The ERYX is a very tough car right out of the box. It doesn't really require any additional parts to be as competitive as any of the other touring cars out there. Its very responsive to setup changes and parts fit and finish are very good. No real issues to speak of during the assembly.

I would probably go back the last 10 to 15 pages of this forum and you'll get a good idea of the car and then check out the Serpent web site for the specific car that has a lot of info attached to it as well.

If you have more specific questions just ask on here.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:11 PM   #5331
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Hey guys,

Another local and I were testing different diff oils last weekend and we came to the conclusion the amount of oil in the diff can make the diff feel different even though it may have the same cst oil in it. I'd like to put out there an idea regarding diff building and the consistency we could achieve by having a standard measure to fill to rather than a vauge line in the manual. Some of you more hardcore tech heads may already do this. Xray have instructions with the weight of the diff half with oil in it as a way of building them consistently. I want to see if some of you guys can weigh your diff halfs so we can compare how much oil we are putting in them. I am most likely guilty of slightly under filling my diffs whereas my mate will often over fill them to the point they will weep a little when putting together. This may take a while to compile the test data but next time you build a diff and you have some scales handy please weigh the half and post it up here. I will have some data up after Sunday when my next lot of diff building will take place.

Regards Benzaah
Probably a good idea. If you're going to do this and collect the info you should also take into account if its a V1, V2, or V2 with the composite gears, 2 gears or 4 gears............if you get what I mean.....we just seem to have a lot of build and parts variables......steel out drives, aluminum cross pins..........
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:15 PM   #5332
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Originally Posted by Jim Frahm View Post
Anyone in the US have spare parts for the ERYX yet? I'm looking for a diff and split blocks.

Thanks,
Jim
I'd shoot Serpent America a e-mail, sometimes they have the parts but not listed on their site right away.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:42 PM   #5333
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How well does the Eryx hold its setup from run to run in the midst of flapper tapping, dot hopping, and traction rolls? Nothing major, just the little stuff that happens club racing. With my schuis, no matter how clean my run is, I have to de-tweak the top deck, adjust hinge pin blocks, and reset droop, just to be sure the car will drive the same.

-Mike
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:58 PM   #5334
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
How well does the Eryx hold its setup from run to run in the midst of flapper tapping, dot hopping, and traction rolls? Nothing major, just the little stuff that happens club racing. With my schuis, no matter how clean my run is, I have to de-tweak the top deck, adjust hinge pin blocks, and reset droop, just to be sure the car will drive the same.

-Mike
Those are all the things that drove me crazy on the TC6, and my Serpents have none of those issues. In particular, I think the flex top deck helps because it probably flexes rather than shift under the bolts and get tweaked.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:49 AM   #5335
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
How well does the Eryx hold its setup from run to run in the midst of flapper tapping, dot hopping, and traction rolls? Nothing major, just the little stuff that happens club racing. With my schuis, no matter how clean my run is, I have to de-tweak the top deck, adjust hinge pin blocks, and reset droop, just to be sure the car will drive the same.

-Mike
Its a solid car, tweak change hasn't been a issue with the car, speaking from running from one extreme to the other on top decks. The hinge pin blocks haven't been a issue, so far. At the last race I attended, traction was way up there and never really had any roll issues to speak of.........car seems planted and pretty stable. Its a very good club warrior car, about the strongest car I have ever run........the new parts are very strong.
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Old 03-16-2013, 09:03 AM   #5336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
The ERYX is a very tough car right out of the box. It doesn't really require any additional parts to be as competitive as any of the other touring cars out there. Its very responsive to setup changes and parts fit and finish are very good. No real issues to speak of during the assembly.

I would probably go back the last 10 to 15 pages of this forum and you'll get a good idea of the car and then check out the Serpent web site for the specific car that has a lot of info attached to it as well.

If you have more specific questions just ask on here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Its a solid car, tweak change hasn't been a issue with the car, speaking from running from one extreme to the other on top decks. The hinge pin blocks haven't been a issue, so far. At the last race I attended, traction was way up there and never really had any roll issues to speak of.........car seems planted and pretty stable. Its a very good club warrior car, about the strongest car I have ever run........the new parts are very strong.
Totally agree with this. Out of the box, the only things I would add are extra sets of split blocks (specifically 2.0/0 and 1.5/0.5) for the front, and the DCJ driveshafts... that's it! (Springs as well, but they are a subjective, preference thing). The car as it is in the kit form is really very very good, and the options I've mentioned are what I feel the car needs to get the best out of it... which isn't a long list for sure!

The car is very nicely responsive to changes as well, and will back up the build being very good, with the singular exception of the inserts into the new arms for the roll-bars. However, Serpent are aware of that issue, and no doubt will be fixed v.soon, if not having done so already.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone;
Probably a good idea. If you're going to do this and collect the info you should also take into account if its a V1, V2, or V2 with the composite gears, 2 gears or 4 gears............if you get what I mean.....we just seem to have a lot of build and parts variables......steel out drives, aluminum cross pins..........
In all seriousness.... with the new composite diff being so damm good, I would make the suggestion that anyone who has an old one ditch it and get the new one... save the old styles for a front diff/emergencies... the new unit is just that good!
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:54 AM   #5337
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In all seriousness.... with the new composite diff being so damm good, I would make the suggestion that anyone who has an old one ditch it and get the new one... save the old styles for a front diff/emergencies... the new unit is just that good!
+1000 no question about it.
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Old 03-16-2013, 12:23 PM   #5338
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To make exact measurement of how much oil I use in the diff, I weigh the diff just before adding oil, then add oil slowly until there is total 1.6grams of oil in the diff. With that 1.6 grams I found it out to be completely full, very little to no leaking initially from the screw holes when closed.
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Old 03-16-2013, 12:57 PM   #5339
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I've been using front diffs frequently and I've found that if you don't fill it completely, you lose damping after a few laps. I assume the oil is migrating and leaving voids around the gears. So for the sake of consistency, I try to fill all my diffs completely with a bit of overflow when you put the housing together.
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:15 PM   #5340
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Last weekend was the Regina leg of the WCICS series. I'm a bit behind the times, still running the TE chassis but they are still working great

I started out with the Yokomo pink/blue spring combo, but the grip was a bit low when the track was fresh and the car was difficult to drive. So I went to Serpent yellow springs up front and it really calmed things down. This setup was good to take TQ in both 17.5 and Mod.

However, by the last qualifier the grip was getting to the point were I was on the verge of traction rolling. I should know by now I should not make setup changes right before the main, but I chickened out and only sauced half the front for the 17.5 main That turned out to be a fatal mistake as the car was 3/10ths slower than the last qualifier. I was pushing hard to maintain the lead, but of course made a big driving error. Then the car was just not fast enough to mount a comeback and I held on for 2nd place. I had the chance to clinch the points title in 17.5 with this race, but I still have the lead going into the final race at my home track.

In the Mod main I did not repeat the same mistake. I reduced the front sauce only slightly and the car was pretty good. It lost a bit of corner speed, but it was very safe and still fast enough to win. It was exactly what I wanted because I hoped to just run consistent laps and make no mistakes from the pole. Everything went according to plan and I led the entire race until the very last lap when I got spun by a backmarker That was just enough for 2nd place to squeeze by, and I finished the last lap in 2nd. That cost me not only the win but also the points lead in Mod, so that was pretty frustrating! I feel pretty good going into the series finale, but it's going to be a tough battle.

In hindsight, I think I should have gone back to the pink/blue spring combo on Saturday when the grip came up. It works great at my home track, and I haven't had grip roll issues with that setup.

Looking forward to upgrading to the new kit in the fall, but the TE chassis has been awesome. I will be a little sad to retire it

Regina WCICS 2013 setup (S411 TE)
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