jimjav

iTrader: (1)

I didn't test it in the eryx, but in the s411 the difference in stock class was huge. In a month here in Spain we have the first round of the nationals and I have 4 nyloon spool for the event. I am sure that I will need only two, but as I am a crash driver i prefer to have some as extra spares.
The main difference that I notice using the nylon spool was in the first meters of the finals, i was winnings like 1 or 2 positions in only tem meters. Maybe there is a difference in the rest of the main, but in those fiorsts moments the difference was huge

Cheers

javier

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Looking at the pics, I'm pretty sure he ended up on Yokomo springs... and I know Ryan Maker had good success with these on asphalt too.

Geberit

Ryan stated in his report: http://teamserpent.com/2013/03/au-ma...with-eryx-411/

''There was one last practie round Saturday morning, and considering I hadnt used Yokomo springs and I was happy with my car, I decided to give them a try. I used Pink/Blue and suprisingly they worked really well on asphalt!''

Geberit

If the spring rates are right the combo Serpent Blach 295gf/mm - Gray 265gf/mm and Yokomo Pink 290 gf/mm - Blue 264 gf/mm are close!

Info from: http://teamyokomo.blogspot.com/2009/...tes-chart.html

PS: Ride Blue 287 gf/mm - Silver 268 gf/mm is also close.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Im curious to know where others are at with the shock package on this car. With the old Car I never had a good feeling running the serpent green, black and grey springs with the older white, yellow and orange ones. I always ran 400cst oil and Serpent black\black or Ride red\red with that car. I have limted time on the new car but so far ive had the best feeling with 550cst and ride purple\red. I've tried heaps of combos with the Ride, Hpi and Serpent springs with 400/500/550 cst oils.

I don't have any of the yokomo springs to try they seem to be the flavour of the month.

I am going to build an oil split in my shocks for next test day. I'm thinking 600 front 400 rear and try the above spring combos again. I have also built up the car with my 2.0/1.5 front 1 piece blocks and my non flex top deck. Only downside is the 1.5mm of shims I can add to Ackerman. No more I don't think the front end was bad on the old car and was always looking for more rear end. I'm hoping all this wrenching is going to be worth some tenths.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

That's interesting, as the chart's I have with Yokomo springs are a lot softer than those values..Pink is 14.9lb, Blue 12.12 which are about 267gf and 218gf respectively.
With those values (and I've tested them side by side, and it's close), Ride Green and White.

Personally, I also ignore the Ride Silvers (tend to go with the Greens instead), as they have a different wire diameter. Both the Reds and Silvers have the different wire diameter, and as such, have a different feel. The rest of the soft set (Blue, Green, Yellow and White) are like softer versions of the good old HPI Silvers, as the wire diameter is the same, just a different coil count.

Having said all that, it is also quite hard to compare the Yokomo's to anything, as not only do they have different wire diameter again, but also have a bigger overall diameter, compared to most other springs out there.

Still, I'll be running through a lot of different set's this weekend, finally getting back to the track

Geberit

Good to hear you ar running this weekend. My first run with the ERXY is pland in two weeks. I have the Yokomo spring combo Pink/Blue since we used them at the second ETS Race in Hrotovice. But I'm interested in you comments on the Ride springs (Blue, Green, Yellow and White) on asfalt.

BTW do you use the machined pistons in you shocks or the original ones?

ferfelu

iTrader: (4)

Geberit,

Do you have all specs of the yokomo springs????

Regards

Oops, I just click the link..

ferfelu

iTrader: (4)

TryHard,

As you can see in the chart at the yokomo blog spot, those spring are the long spring version.. As for the BD7, they are shorter.. That's why maybe those of you feel different..???

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

That could be the reason. I'm not all that clued up on Yokomo springs, and finding rates for them is pretty tough going... Very possible that there a couple of different types around.

smitty2802

iTrader: (47)

If anyone is interested I have a brand new built but never ran eryx that I'm needing to sell.

Thanks,
DC

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

I've got a question for you guys about droop which is something I'm struggling to fully understand. Looking at a lot of set up sheets everyone has a trend of being either 6/5 or 5/4 front rear coupled with a ride height of 5/5.5 front rear. I find the car easier to drive with more front droop than rear so will often set the car at 4/5.5. What handling change would you expect to feel if you went from 6/5 to 5/5 or 4/5 droop. What makes you feel like you have too much or too little?

Geberit

On this page there is a good explenation with animation. Go to ''Suspension'' page 6!

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

From my experience, a car with less rear droop will have less steering (it's quite a useful thing to try when struggling with traction roll...) simply as there will be less weight transfer forward (on braking)
Less front droop will reduce weight transfer to the back (on acceleration), increasing on power steering.
So from that, comparing a car setup 5F/4R vs 4F/5R, the first should have more steering all round.

Usually, droop works in combination with ride-height, and tyre size... more specifically, it's the up-travel of the car that's the key. What I mean here is, if you put wheels and tyres on the car, and then put it down on the pit table, how far you can lift the chassis before the tyres lift is the key thing to check. Droop, Ride height, and tyre diameter all contribute to how much up-travel the chassis has.
For a higher ride-height, you'll usually want to give the car more droop to maintain the same up-travel.

Also, running less droop on smooth tracks is normally the go, whereas more droop on bumpy tracks can help make the car more stable. Although again that works in combination with ride height, as bumpy tracks normally equals higher ride height.

I have to admit, I normally end up on 5/4 or 5/4.5, and that always seems like a good base to start with. Whilst this weekend indoors I suspect that I'll be lower ride-height, so may go to 5.5/4.5 or 6/5.

HiH
Ed

Nitroblood

I bought my S411 two years ago, so it is basically a V1 (just changed chassis, topdeck and differential to V2). I remember that when I did finish it, it had a lot of play all around the front end (wishbones, c-hubs, steeringrack....). I reduced significally the play by adding a lot of shims (and with the help of this thread) but I think that a new 400€ car canīt have that amount of play.
Is this problem still present in the Eryx? Is it really a step up from the original V1 or TE?