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Old 02-20-2013, 02:50 AM   #5236
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Originally Posted by jimjav View Post
I am having some issues during the built of the eryx,

I have too much side to side movement in the midle axle, I am talking about 2 mm, I have also the same issue in the spool. For the spool I have try another set of eccentrics that I have as spare in my toolbox and the results is the same. For the middle axle I will tray another sets of bearing but I donīt belive that this will resolve the problem

Anyone has the same problems? Ideas for solution?

My first impresions abour the few things that I have built is that the gear diff it's so good, and the new arms seem quite better

regards
I also had the side-to-side play but a couple of shims took care of it. I also got a CVD wheel axle which was to big to fit a bearing. I had to wet sand it to make the bearing fit. My LE went together without any quality issues.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:52 AM   #5237
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Thank you for the tip. I understand how to fix it however on a new product, this shouldn't be necessary. Especially on $75 cvd units. I will see what Serpent has to say before making my own fix. I would expect them to send me the individual part of the out-drive that is manufactured incorrectly, at minimum.

There is always solution to a problem, except I should certainly get what I paid for before using it.
Interesting. I've had 3 sets of DCJ's in my cars, never had this issue. Seems strange that two seperate people have had the same problem... maybe a bad batch

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjav View Post
I am having some issues during the built of the eryx,

I have too much side to side movement in the midle axle, I am talking about 2 mm, I have also the same issue in the spool. For the spool I have try another set of eccentrics that I have as spare in my toolbox and the results is the same. For the middle axle I will tray another sets of bearing but I donīt belive that this will resolve the problem

Anyone has the same problems? Ideas for solution?

My first impresions abour the few things that I have built is that the gear diff it's so good, and the new arms seem quite better

regards
As Holmenkollen said, shims are your friend here. Seems to be the same on all Eryx's (reminds me I need to check my centre shaft!)

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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
Thanks for the answer Ed, I followed the manual or at least I meant too. I will double check later today. I think my rear shocks might be shorter than they need to be for the settings that I currently have on the car. Despite a slight rush job to get the car running, it was still pretty good. I really like the Eryx.
Yeah, don't be afraid of unwinding the shock bottom a bit if your struggling to get the droop.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:06 AM   #5238
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Ok, I will pic some shims and remove that play.
For the spool I am going to change from side the bearingblocks to see if I notice some difference in that side-to-side play

I willl try to finish my car this weekend and if the weather is nice trying to make the first runs on sunday, because the weather guy it's talking about snow during saturday morning :S

So many thanks guys
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Old 02-20-2013, 02:14 PM   #5239
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what shims are you guys using on the middle axle? i only seem to have about 1mm play.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:02 AM   #5240
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The next thing I had a play around with was springs again, and I'm pretty sure (although this was all down by calibrated hand on pit table ) that using the same springs front and rear isn't a good idea for the Eryx... let me explain.
Basically, I fitted the TE and Eryx with the same springs (Ride Blue F, Yellow R), put kit shock positions on both cars (Holes 3F 4R... although I already know they aren't quite the same). When doing a pushdown test, the Eryx felt both a lot softer on the front, and a little harder on the rear the TE.
Interestingly, I switched the TE back to the same spring F&R (Ride Green), and it felt very similar to the Eryx with the Blue/Yellow. A smidge softer on the front, and very similar on the rear. Moving the Eryx to hole 2 on the front tower, and both cars felt almost exactly the same on the table.
Obviously, this is only a guestimation based on a push test, but I think the findings were pretty interesting. I do know that I'll be leaving the Blue/Yellow combo on the car to start with this weekend, as the rates give a similar split (albeit softer all round) to the HPI Pink/Silver I ended up on last time out....
Wondering which springs you are testing. The Ride Soft Version or the Ride M-Chassis type? I want to test some and need to know which version is better fitting for the new short shock Eryx.

thx
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:40 AM   #5241
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Eryx uses standard length springs
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:54 AM   #5242
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Jeff, did you manage to get to 4.8-5mm ride height in the front with yokomo springs? I'm at 5.5 and can't get much lower?
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:56 PM   #5243
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Depends on the tire. I'm runni.g the sweep qts32 with the new rims they have on the premounts. And I was down to 4.8 and had to adjust to get 5.0 in the front with my shocks in hole #2 on the tower. When I put on my old sweeps the car was at 5.2 with the collars all the way up.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:36 PM   #5244
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Has anyone got issues with either the shock towers or the bulk head clamps tweaking the car? The chassis is flat on the board when the towers are off and there is not a noticable tweak in the chassis by the flat edge of my Verniers. It's there on the hudy tweak station and I have it within a turn and a half on the shocks to dial it out but for a new kit I don't think this is acceptable. Is this something anyone else is experiencing? I feel like the counter sunk holes in the shock towers are tweaking both the front and back end.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:50 PM   #5245
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Has anyone got issues with either the shock towers or the bulk head clamps tweaking the car? The chassis is flat on the board when the towers are off and there is not a noticable tweak in the chassis by the flat edge of my Verniers. It's there on the hudy tweak station and I have it within a turn and a half on the shocks to dial it out but for a new kit I don't think this is acceptable. Is this something anyone else is experiencing? I feel like the counter sunk holes in the shock towers are tweaking both the front and back end.
The last time I ran into a weird tweak issue like that, I also thought it was caused by the upper bulkhead/shock tower. I finally got the car flat by having the shock towers on, the upper bulkheads secured properly and had the top plate on the car as well. Then I loosened the bottom chassis 2 screws on the lower bulkhead on the side that was on the low side, the car almost poped into place and I haven't had a issue since. I really though the problem was coming from up top, but it wasn't. This may be your issue as well. My 2.0 is very flat and tweak free.
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:34 PM   #5246
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Good news.

Serpent will be sending me replacement parts for the shock shaft and DJC cvd issue.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:32 PM   #5247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Has anyone got issues with either the shock towers or the bulk head clamps tweaking the car? The chassis is flat on the board when the towers are off and there is not a noticable tweak in the chassis by the flat edge of my Verniers. It's there on the hudy tweak station and I have it within a turn and a half on the shocks to dial it out but for a new kit I don't think this is acceptable. Is this something anyone else is experiencing? I feel like the counter sunk holes in the shock towers are tweaking both the front and back end.
Hmmm, my car tweaks up perfect on my MIP tweak station, shocks all equal l-r.
When your putting the towers on, make sure to tighten up the countersinks first, before tightening down the clamp tops. Also worth loosening and retightening all the bottom screws as Gary mentions.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:46 PM   #5248
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Originally Posted by rcwck View Post
Wondering which springs you are testing. The Ride Soft Version or the Ride M-Chassis type? I want to test some and need to know which version is better fitting for the new short shock Eryx.

thx
As mentioned, they are the Ride Softs, in White (13.9lb/248gf), Yellow (14.6lb/259gf), Green (15.2/272gf) and Blue (16.1lb/287gf).
One thing to note, is Ride also have a Silver spring that is quite close to the Green (15.0lb/268gf), but I tend to not run them as they have a different wire diameter to the soft versions, so tend to feel different on track.

Having said all that, I have Yokomo pink and blue on the car to test out next time anyway...

Oh, and in terms of ride height, I can happily get to less than 5.0mm on the front with both Yok and Ride springs. That's with Ride and MuchMore tyres though.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:50 PM   #5249
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
what shims are you guys using on the middle axle? i only seem to have about 1mm play.
3Racing 5mm shims worked great for me.

3RAC-SW05
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:11 AM   #5250
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Finaly I remove the side-to-side play in the spool, only changing the side o the bulckheads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
what shims are you guys using on the middle axle? i only seem to have about 1mm play.
Tamiya 5mm there is a nice set that came with ten units of each size: 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3.
Finally I only needed 0.4mm to remove the play.

Yesterday I have half an hour of free time to follow with the assembly and I discover that fiting a servosaver it's quite difficult, I am using kimgbrough midsize and I need to sand it a bit because it was rubing a bit with the cf part of the servo mounting.

cheers
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