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Old 01-22-2013, 09:57 AM   #5041
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Looking at the te manual pictures, was the mono
Motormount an option part for the te?
Took car completely appart and sealing the cf. trying a fifferent way though. Liquid mask and spraying the edges.

Might get ab acer bearing kit as ive only run the car one weekend and 100 or so practice laps and some of the bearings are done.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:23 AM   #5042
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of course, i learned the other day you reall yhave to double tripple check this car for whatever reason. had some screws loosen and one of my axles fell apart. lost the insert and pin. bearings on that side were also shot.
Credit goes to someone else in the thread for this idea, but you can use the TOP Photon pin retainers to hold the CVDs together, and completely omit the set screw:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...der-Titanium-4
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:30 PM   #5043
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Credit goes to someone else in the thread for this idea, but you can use the TOP Photon pin retainers to hold the CVDs together, and completely omit the set screw:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...der-Titanium-4
This product Map price is $8.5 only !
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:26 PM   #5044
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If there was reasonable shipping that didnt take 3+ weeks id prob have np ordering overseas.
Ill just use heathrink though. Enough to prevent the pin from exiting the vehicle at least.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:43 PM   #5045
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
Looking at the te manual pictures, was the mono
Motormount an option part for the te?
Took car completely appart and sealing the cf. trying a fifferent way though. Liquid mask and spraying the edges.

Might get ab acer bearing kit as ive only run the car one weekend and 100 or so practice laps and some of the bearings are done.
One piece motor mount has been a option part on all the cars up to the Eryx, by the looks of it. Most run the one piece and just swap the inner leg as a tuning option, which both are suppose to come with the new car as well.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:03 PM   #5046
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I kinda of like the two peice mount for being able to take the mount off with the motor attached to change a pinion or rotor or somthing, or adjust mesh on high fdrs.
i had a hell of a time tightening the motor screw behind the spur in 17.5 blinky. probably stripped the screw/motor hole ect.

i guess the single mount gives better flex?
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:26 PM   #5047
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i had a hell of a time tightening the motor screw behind the spur in 17.5 blinky. probably stripped the screw/motor hole ect.
I don't even bother attempting to tighten that screw through the spur. Although, it's another step I just snug the forward screw to set the mesh then remove the mount entirely and tighten both. Reinstall mount. Extra step but no headache. Personally, I don't find it too annoying.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:45 PM   #5048
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im saying i LIKE the two peice mount for that reason. i had the one peice in the stock car and that is where i was having my problems.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:23 PM   #5049
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im saying i LIKE the two peice mount for that reason. i had the one peice in the stock car and that is where i was having my problems.

I run a one piece mount with RW Xray gears or the stock Serpent gear (with a couple holes opened up large enough to pass the head of a button head screw through it) in 17.5 blinky class and have no issues with either screw.

Three things you should make sure your doing or using:
1 - only use button head screws for your motor screws, this way the tool you use to tighten the screws has a smaller diameter shaft which will give you more clearance.
B - Use a ball tipped wrench, this will allow you to get at the screws at more of a angle if required.
3 - Access to the pinion set screw is easier to get everything aligned when you use either the hole at the bottom of the chassis, either the small one or I sometimes use the opening for the spur gear. If I'm using the small access hole, I will mark the side of the pinion with a sharpie so I have a idea where the setscrew is in relation to the flat of the motor shaft.

The thing I don't like about the 2 piece mount is you have to be careful which screws you don't use in the top deck as it allows a lot of flex between the motor and the idler gear, so its easier to wreck a spur gear on a hard crash.
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:23 PM   #5050
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I run a one piece mount with RW Xray gears or the stock Serpent gear (with a couple holes opened up large enough to pass the head of a button head screw through it) in 17.5 blinky class and have no issues with either screw.

Three things you should make sure your doing or using:
1 - only use button head screws for your motor screws, this way the tool you use to tighten the screws has a smaller diameter shaft which will give you more clearance.
B - Use a ball tipped wrench, this will allow you to get at the screws at more of a angle if required.
3 - Access to the pinion set screw is easier to get everything aligned when you use either the hole at the bottom of the chassis, either the small one or I sometimes use the opening for the spur gear. If I'm using the small access hole, I will mark the side of the pinion with a sharpie so I have a idea where the setscrew is in relation to the flat of the motor shaft.

The thing I don't like about the 2 piece mount is you have to be careful which screws you don't use in the top deck as it allows a lot of flex between the motor and the idler gear, so its easier to wreck a spur gear on a hard crash.
Thanks for that. Because I also had a lot of problems with mouting motors when using low gear ration (72/36). And so I didn t driv new motor mount.
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:14 PM   #5051
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With the ratio in running a ball tipped wrench wouldnt really help much. I might just keep the two peice on the stock car. One peice on mod as i dis have some gears get mangled probably with too much flex. Top screw would have helped though.

For high bite ashphalt, any settings prefered? I might use the 2.5mm car for that in stock. I thought my 2.25mm te had too much traction could have used a little bit more kick
On the rear but meh.
I noob. Makes sense to use the newer better car for mod outdoors but both cars seem good.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:28 PM   #5052
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I run a one piece mount with RW Xray gears or the stock Serpent gear (with a couple holes opened up large enough to pass the head of a button head screw through it) in 17.5 blinky class and have no issues with either screw.

Three things you should make sure your doing or using:
1 - only use button head screws for your motor screws, this way the tool you use to tighten the screws has a smaller diameter shaft which will give you more clearance.
B - Use a ball tipped wrench, this will allow you to get at the screws at more of a angle if required.
3 - Access to the pinion set screw is easier to get everything aligned when you use either the hole at the bottom of the chassis, either the small one or I sometimes use the opening for the spur gear. If I'm using the small access hole, I will mark the side of the pinion with a sharpie so I have a idea where the setscrew is in relation to the flat of the motor shaft.

The thing I don't like about the 2 piece mount is you have to be careful which screws you don't use in the top deck as it allows a lot of flex between the motor and the idler gear, so its easier to wreck a spur gear on a hard crash.
Hey Gary,

I sent Serpent an updated motor mount design for the S411 to allow much easier access to gear for blinky / stock. No more reaming out spur gears or forcing a ball tipped driver in a weird angles to tighten the motor. They've got back to me and said will be going ahead with the change, this will allow us to use the lower holes on the motor to mount. I was pleased that they where very receptive to the suggestion.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:45 PM   #5053
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Hey Gary,

I sent Serpent an updated motor mount design for the S411 to allow much easier access to gear for blinky / stock. No more reaming out spur gears or forcing a ball tipped driver in a weird angles to tighten the motor. They've got back to me and said will be going ahead with the change, this will allow us to use the lower holes on the motor to mount. I was pleased that they where very receptive to the suggestion.
Thats great to here, I haven't had the problem, so I've never even looked into doing the lower hole option, I know some of the locals here have done that with their Xrays as well.
Its great that they actually will listen to the guys that run the car and if it warrants a change, they do it. Some of the parts I had asked for a filtering thru the system now as well. Michael, said the funny thing was that they had gotten the same requests from their drivers over there as well. Ed/Tryhard has had some fantastic suggestions as well as the other guys, and you can see them all being applied to the car, it just gets better all the time and it shows.

Its a great TEAM effort by everyone, and its great to see and hear from people all over the world that make this car so good. I think if we look at the newest car, everyone can see a little bit of their input on it somewhere and it all counts. Good job everyone!
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:52 PM   #5054
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Thats great to here, I haven't had the problem, so I've never even looked into doing the lower hole option, I know some of the locals here have done that with their Xrays as well.
Its great that they actually will listen to the guys that run the car and if it warrants a change, they do it. Some of the parts I had asked for a filtering thru the system now as well. Michael, said the funny thing was that they had gotten the same requests from their drivers over there as well. Ed/Tryhard has had some fantastic suggestions as well as the other guys, and you can see them all being applied to the car, it just gets better all the time and it shows.

Its a great TEAM effort by everyone, and its great to see and hear from people all over the world that make this car so good. I think if we look at the newest car, everyone can see a little bit of their input on it somewhere and it all counts. Good job everyone!

OUR Summer Nats here in Australia was a whole different show because of this forum.
The number of serpents and those running a lot of mods presented here is certainly a testament to the cars and the mental thought that we all try to a make it just a bit faster.
I remember when we went to Serpent it was an odd move at the tracks but it been the right move.....Jeff qualified 8th and finished 6th overall in his first A mod final and ran as high as third in one race until we overtemped a motor.
But the support of our fellow serpent driver to see him win is relentless and well received
Id like to thank everybody here and fellow serpent drivers at the track as its this drive to improve that sees the 411 becoming the car of choice as opposed to some other chassis
Stickin with an Evolving Chassis is better than buying this years could be from last years nearly gotit right
Lookin forward to the Eryx

Last but not least could we get some kits with the low shock towers and the shocks as a kit ....
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:38 PM   #5055
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an eryx upgrade package would be nice but i guess it would come close to 2/3rds of a new car.
not sure the split blocks alone are worth upgrading the chassis but all the low cg parts as a package would sure be a nice kit. Id buy that.
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