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Old 01-20-2013, 11:05 PM   #5026
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Holy Cow, Fischer's car was on FIRE in that 3rd main at the ETS.
He said that earlier his car was better towards the end of his runs, and I thought you could see that in the earlier mains. In the third main however, his car looked terrific from beginning to end. Thoughts?

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Old 01-21-2013, 02:54 AM   #5027
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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
Holy Cow, Fischer's car was on FIRE in that 3rd main at the ETS.
He said that earlier his car was better towards the end of his runs, and I thought you could see that in the earlier mains. In the third main however, his car looked terrific from beginning to end. Thoughts?

Steve
he must have found the way to get the tyres to work from the start. first Main cost him the win i believe, his car looked a handfull in the first 3 laps, after that his tyres were starting to work. Marc even said he needed to make this happen, a different Additive ? great pass in second corner to take 2nd place and try to pressure Volker in the last main. was great to watch.
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:18 AM   #5028
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here's a question for everyone, how high are the bottom of your bodies from the racing surface, front, sides? after looking at some pictures from the euro series it seems that the bodies are really slammed on the chassis or they are cut pretty high off the ground. looking at the front splitters, they seem to be very thin compared to all the bodies i've done and seen in person.
What you'll tend to find, is that most will lower their body to as low they can, then trim the splitters so they don't catch. I can't remember if ETS actually checks a body height dimension (I don't think they do)... in which case, lower the better to help avoid traction rolls, hence the very thin splitters.

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Old 01-21-2013, 04:23 AM   #5029
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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
Holy Cow, Fischer's car was on FIRE in that 3rd main at the ETS.
He said that earlier his car was better towards the end of his runs, and I thought you could see that in the earlier mains. In the third main however, his car looked terrific from beginning to end. Thoughts?

Steve
Personally, I think it was the same... after about a minute or so, you suddenly see him gap Freddy, and catch up to Volker... Fastest car there I would think though! Bodes well for the Eryx for sure

Ed
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:23 PM   #5030
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tried walter hobbies and they have none listed, where in canada can I get one of the new kits, I remember a shop in calgary that does engines as well but don,t remember the name, if some one can help me out thanks
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:06 PM   #5031
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
What you'll tend to find, is that most will lower their body to as low they can, then trim the splitters so they don't catch. I can't remember if ETS actually checks a body height dimension (I don't think they do)... in which case, lower the better to help avoid traction rolls, hence the very thin splitters.

HiH
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what i find when slamming a body down low is when the suspension compresses the tires will hit the top of the body. how high is the bottom of your body off the ground? for example if your chassis ride height is 5mm is that what your body is at or is it higher, etc...?
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:40 PM   #5032
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I em new to on road and I be running on indoor medium sized asphalt track. What pinion should I use for 17.5 motor with 64p 96t spur gear? What would be a good starting point? What weight of dif oil and shock oil should I use? Thanks
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:06 PM   #5033
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tried walter hobbies and they have none listed, where in canada can I get one of the new kits, I remember a shop in calgary that does engines as well but don,t remember the name, if some one can help me out thanks
Car isn't at the shops just yet, possibly the end of the week in Europe, NA is suppose to be the end of the month. The only motor shop I know of that sells Serpent is in Winnipeg, Clockworks Engines (John). There might also be Serpent available at RC Depot in Edmonton (Cory).

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I em new to on road and I be running on indoor medium sized asphalt track. What pinion should I use for 17.5 motor with 64p 96t spur gear? What would be a good starting point? What weight of dif oil and shock oil should I use? Thanks
If its for 17.5 blinky a good start FDR is 4.0. I would start with 700 diff oil and 400 for the shocks front and rear. Springs something in the 14 to 15 lb range........then you'll have to tune from there.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:59 PM   #5034
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for 17.5 blinky im runnign 350cst front/rear, 4holes in front, 3 in rear. yellow springs front grey rear.
i run pretty much stock everything else, with 0.5 front toe and 1F 1.5R camber. car is easy to drive and very responsive.

of course, i learned the other day you reall yhave to double tripple check this car for whatever reason. had some screws loosen and one of my axles fell apart. lost the insert and pin. bearings on that side were also shot.
not much of a crash. a typical tap on clicktrack, guess its enough.

cant wait for outdoor season so i can run the serpent on a weekly basis. by then i hope the eryx parts make it to amain so i can upgrade my v2 s411.
i assume all the bulkheads are the same?
sure a new car is nice but not all of us can afford a $500 kit whenever the new ones comes lol.
figure i could get the shocks, towers, layshaft bearing holders and lower steering mounts for a reasonable price and have a nice little upgrade for that car.

all this talk about lowering the steering.. couldnt you just flip the swingarms upside down to acheive the same effect?
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:34 PM   #5035
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
for 17.5 blinky im runnign 350cst front/rear, 4holes in front, 3 in rear. yellow springs front grey rear.
i run pretty much stock everything else, with 0.5 front toe and 1F 1.5R camber. car is easy to drive and very responsive.

of course, i learned the other day you reall yhave to double tripple check this car for whatever reason. had some screws loosen and one of my axles fell apart. lost the insert and pin. bearings on that side were also shot.
not much of a crash. a typical tap on clicktrack, guess its enough.

cant wait for outdoor season so i can run the serpent on a weekly basis. by then i hope the eryx parts make it to amain so i can upgrade my v2 s411.
i assume all the bulkheads are the same?
sure a new car is nice but not all of us can afford a $500 kit whenever the new ones comes lol.
figure i could get the shocks, towers, layshaft bearing holders and lower steering mounts for a reasonable price and have a nice little upgrade for that car.

all this talk about lowering the steering.. couldnt you just flip the swingarms upside down to acheive the same effect?
I actually ran one of my cars with the flipped steering ams thinking the same thing and it's very close. while about 2mm higher then the shorter posts, it helps a ton. That with a 1 mm spacer under the link on the knuckle made for a very balanced feel. 95% of the same feelng as the lower posts IMO.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:55 PM   #5036
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good, ill save myself what will likely be ten bux lol.

of course. looks like ill need a new chassis plate too.. my stock ones seem to be 2.5mm. well. if its under $250 to do a conversion ill do it, otherwise i might as well sell it for $250 and just buy the new one ha.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:57 AM   #5037
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Originally Posted by duckman996 View Post
I actually ran one of my cars with the flipped steering ams thinking the same thing and it's very close. while about 2mm higher then the shorter posts, it helps a ton. That with a 1 mm spacer under the link on the knuckle made for a very balanced feel. 95% of the same feelng as the lower posts IMO.
When you say flipped steering, so you mean as the bell-cranks the other way up (cross piece 'nestles' in bell-cranks or see the first pic in link below).
Only reason I ask, as that is the standard setup in the TE manual for the V2 steering. The new posts are lower still, and give more options for shimming on the outboard position.
Cheaper option still is to do the mod I did (http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...k_SteeringMod/)... achieves the same thing, albeit in not as neat a way

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Old 01-22-2013, 04:03 AM   #5038
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
When you say flipped steering, so you mean as the bell-cranks the other way up (cross piece 'nestles' in bell-cranks or see the first pic in link below).
Only reason I ask, as that is the standard setup in the TE manual for the V2 steering. The new posts are lower still, and give more options for shimming on the outboard position.
Cheaper option still is to do the mod I did (http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...k_SteeringMod/)... achieves the same thing, albeit in not as neat a way

Ed
the split blocks should suit that mod a little better.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:21 AM   #5039
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the v2 manual shows the swing arms with the flush side facing up, i just tried flipping them over so the stepped side is facing up instead, flush side down. i might have to adjust the servo hookup angle or shim it some, but it doesnt hit the swingarms, and lowered the rack 2-3 mm. im sure the new posts are great to have as well though.

or the ones discussed some pages back from tamiya that eliminate slop.

of course after looking over the te manual as well, yes thats the way im talking about.. wonder why the previous owner built them the otherway up..
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:44 AM   #5040
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
good, ill save myself what will likely be ten bux lol.

of course. looks like ill need a new chassis plate too.. my stock ones seem to be 2.5mm. well. if its under $250 to do a conversion ill do it, otherwise i might as well sell it for $250 and just buy the new one ha.
You can get the same steering mod by flipping the steering posts and using a 1mm spacer under the levers, just as Ed has decribed in previious posts.

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the split blocks should suit that mod a little better.
Yes, but if you use a long ball ended wrench its still pretty easy to do the ackerman changes.

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the v2 manual shows the swing arms with the flush side facing up, i just tried flipping them over so the stepped side is facing up instead, flush side down. i might have to adjust the servo hookup angle or shim it some, but it doesnt hit the swingarms, and lowered the rack 2-3 mm. im sure the new posts are great to have as well though.

or the ones discussed some pages back from tamiya that eliminate slop.

of course after looking over the te manual as well, yes thats the way im talking about.. wonder why the previous owner built them the otherway up..

Ever since the V2 steering rack came out, there have been multiple experiments of the "up or down" steering levers. so it probably was just whatever they decided to try to run with.

Eds/Tryhards mod is well worth the 2 X 1mm spacers to lower the rack, the steering is very nice after this is done.
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