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Old 12-04-2012, 01:19 AM   #4771
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In January they will give news on the new parts for the s411 as it was stated in the Serpent blog: http://teamserpent.com/2012/12/germa...n-with-411-te/
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:30 AM   #4772
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I just can't find 1500cst oil, for those that have, what make is it? And where did you get it from?
Xceed do it - 103217 is the part number. Also do 1200 as well (103216).
I've also been told that trying Losi 90 in the 6holes works good as well, which makes sense as it falls somewhere in the 1200-1500 range (80 is around 1000). Good thing I have a few bottles of Losi oil lying around as well!

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Old 12-04-2012, 07:31 AM   #4773
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In January they will give news on the new parts for the s411 as it was stated in the Serpent blog: http://teamserpent.com/2012/12/germa...n-with-411-te/
Look close at the pic of Fischers car... alloy split blocks, front and rear...
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:24 PM   #4774
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Airdrie WCICS setup, still very close to Martin's Canadian Nats
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:08 PM   #4775
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Look close at the pic of Fischers car... alloy split blocks, front and rear...
Hope next month I'll see more at the ETS Rd2. Fisher, Ehrbar and Asmer are also there
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:22 AM   #4776
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Airdrie WCICS setup, still very close to Martin's Canadian Nats
hey mate, What brand oils are you using? Do you have a cst equivalent to the oils you mention in your set up?

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Hope next month I'll see more at the ETS Rd2. Fisher, Ehrbar and Asmer are also there
http://ets.redrc.net/gallery/?nggpage=6#

If you look at the pics from the last ets you will see them running the same chassis. Totally unrelated to the S411 I hope to see if they have a new F1 car running this meet.
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:47 AM   #4777
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So you're running 94/53? How the heck do you reach the motor screws to set the mesh?
The holes in the RW gear make it easy to fit a wrench in. I do use (and bought specifically for this one task) a Hudy 2mm ball end wrench as I am going at the screw from an angle.

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I've heard that some people ream holes in the spur to reach the screw. I just set the mesh, tighten one screw, remove the spur and tighten the other.
I did that with my old Sakura and it got really old. The RW/Xray/Serpent gears all have holes big enough for a wrench, ball end is the key.

I'll see if I can get a picture if anyone is interested, but it is really easy to adjust.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:07 AM   #4778
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The RW gears look like exactly what I need. I notice Speedtech has several types:
Supalite
Supalite Version 2
X-ray

Any substantial difference?
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:09 AM   #4779
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hey mate, What brand oils are you using? Do you have a cst equivalent to the oils you mention in your set up?
Associated. According to the bottle, 30Wt = 350 and 35Wt = 425
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:23 AM   #4780
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And here i was afraid 70 wt was too low lol.

Is there any trick
To
Building the dif to not leak
And not strip the body threads? Ive done everyhing as carefully as i can think of and it
Leaks terribly.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:50 AM   #4781
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I started with 1000cst in the rear diff, but the track had really low grip and the lighter oil did seem to make it a bit easier to drive.

I have some diffs that leak and some that don't. I bought some slightly thicker o-rings to see if that helps them seal up better:
http://www.theoringstore.com/

Have not installed them yet, but I'll report later.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:36 PM   #4782
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I might try some rtv silicon. Used it to seal up the nitro motor so should work here. Would i want stiffer oil in the mod car? Or keep it under 1000cst? Have a spare unbuilt dif is why.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:56 PM   #4783
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My suggestion would be to build up your spare diff with a much thicker oil. That way you can run the 2 diffs back-to-back and get a good feeling for how it affects the handling. Then you may want to choose one or the other, or something in between.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:18 PM   #4784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
The RW gears look like exactly what I need. I notice Speedtech has several types:
Supalite
Supalite Version 2
X-ray

Any substantial difference?
I use the Xray ones, as that is what the local shop carries (Nexus Racing). Fit and function is great, yet to strip one.

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And here i was afraid 70 wt was too low lol.

Is there any trick
To
Building the dif to not leak
And not strip the body threads? Ive done everyhing as carefully as i can think of and it
Leaks terribly.
I build all my diffs with shock slime on the seals (using MuchMore green shock slime currently). Never had a leak. I lightly coat the o-rings and will put a little in the screw holes. Pre-tapping is the best method (2.6mm tap), but I personally use HPI 2.6mm screws (metric thread instead of screw cutting thread and are hex instead of phillips) and will pretap the holes with one of those before I assemble. It saves me the effort of doing it while trying to hold the diff together and level and makes sure they screw in nice and even.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:53 PM   #4785
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I also have a V2 diff that has just started to leak, not sure why. I have always assembled it using Associated green slime but for some reason this one just started to weep a little bit. I even drilled out the screw holes to releive the hydra-lock issue, but it still leaks.

If you are using the stock screws, I always put them in the hole and turn them in the reverse direction till I feel them lift, then fall into the hole, this ensures I'm not cutting new threads everytime I put the screw in.

Also if your looking for a green slime substitute, try the omc lube they use on outboard motors lower gear cases, it has a very good sealing capability, and its green in colour too. () The stuff comes in a big tube and will keep you in green grease for probably your entire rc life.

BTW, I also use the xray rw gear.
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