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Old 12-03-2012, 05:08 AM   #4756
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Questions??

For those of you who are using the the 6 hole piston 2k combo, are you running the rcm shocks or rccx?
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:20 AM   #4757
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question about the rcx shocks... are you supposed to be able to thread the caps over the bladders, or do you HAVE to fully assemble the cap first? i figured out how i could get the caps on with minimal bleed effort, but it was quite fiddly to get the shocks consistant to one another. i much much much MUCH prefer the old shocks as it was very easy to get them consistant.

now i like bladder shocks, though im used to building them as per a schumacher PSM on youtube i saw when i started rc which allows you to float the bladders in before assembling the top, but if they dont fit without being deformed, obviously that wont work.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:57 AM   #4758
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Originally Posted by BigRon View Post
For those of you who are using the the 6 hole piston 2k combo, are you running the rcm shocks or rccx?
I'm running the RCM shocks but I'm pretty sure it works with either one.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:23 PM   #4759
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Originally Posted by gearhead_22 View Post
the body is 3.8 oz.
Thanks for the info!

Had a good weekend at the Airdrie leg of the WCICS. Took TQ in both stock and mod. Hung on for the win in stock, but stuffed it into the 2nd corner in mod, oops With a little luck I got a couple positions back and finished 2nd.

The car was great on low-grip rug with a very flowy layout. The only thing I changed all weekend was to lighten the rear diff fluid. I'll post my setup sheet, but it's virtually identical to what I ran at the Edmonton WCICS.

Does anyone else wish for a 20T center pulley? I realize 17.5 blinky isn't as popular outside North America, but it's kind of tricky to fit even a 4.0 fdr in there. Does anyone know if an Xray pulley would fit? Alternatively, are there any appropriate 64P spurs smaller than 92T?
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:08 PM   #4760
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Thanks for the info!

Had a good weekend at the Airdrie leg of the WCICS. Took TQ in both stock and mod. Hung on for the win in stock, but stuffed it into the 2nd corner in mod, oops With a little luck I got a couple positions back and finished 2nd.

The car was great on low-grip rug with a very flowy layout. The only thing I changed all weekend was to lighten the rear diff fluid. I'll post my setup sheet, but it's virtually identical to what I ran at the Edmonton WCICS.

Does anyone else wish for a 20T center pulley? I realize 17.5 blinky isn't as popular outside North America, but it's kind of tricky to fit even a 4.0 fdr in there. Does anyone know if an Xray pulley would fit? Alternatively, are there any appropriate 64P spurs smaller than 92T?
I am confused in needing to go smaller then a 92? I run a 94/96 most of the time and have no issues getting anything between a 3.55 and 4.48 with that combo. Running a 94/48 in 17.5 blinky right now with a 3.92.

For what it is worth, RW gears go down into the 70's. I have a 90, 88, and maybe smaller. Bolt right on. I have the lower ones if I need to go down towards 3.1/3.2 for VTA on an open track.
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:37 PM   #4761
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
question about the rcx shocks... are you supposed to be able to thread the caps over the bladders, or do you HAVE to fully assemble the cap first? i figured out how i could get the caps on with minimal bleed effort, but it was quite fiddly to get the shocks consistant to one another. i much much much MUCH prefer the old shocks as it was very easy to get them consistant.

now i like bladder shocks, though im used to building them as per a schumacher PSM on youtube i saw when i started rc which allows you to float the bladders in before assembling the top, but if they dont fit without being deformed, obviously that wont work.
Generally, I tend to leave the bladders in place (although bare in mind I'm using tamiya bladders which have a lower profile, and a hole in the top cap), and just lightly screw down the end cap each time. Can get the shocks pretty consistent and similar each time this way. One thing I will say though, is don't push the shaft in fully when setting rebound. Push it in until the top of the chamfer on the shaft. Any further, and you'll start pushing the piston into the bladder.

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Old 12-03-2012, 06:42 PM   #4762
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I am confused in needing to go smaller then a 92? I run a 94/96 most of the time and have no issues getting anything between a 3.55 and 4.48 with that combo. Running a 94/48 in 17.5 blinky right now with a 3.92.

For what it is worth, RW gears go down into the 70's. I have a 90, 88, and maybe smaller. Bolt right on. I have the lower ones if I need to go down towards 3.1/3.2 for VTA on an open track.
So you're running 94/53? How the heck do you reach the motor screws to set the mesh?
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:56 PM   #4763
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I've heard that some people ream holes in the spur to reach the screw. I just set the mesh, tighten one screw, remove the spur and tighten the other.
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:59 PM   #4764
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I do ream out the holes in the Serpent spur, and that barely lets me reach the screw with a 47 pinion.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:27 PM   #4765
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not sure i can get tamiya bladders without making a special interweb order but might be able to try some xray or associated ones.

in my past shocks i would set the bladder ontop of the oil and let it sink in with its own weight, then use a hex driver to gently work it into the shock body and expel excess oil/air. then place the top over it, hold it down with a finger while threading the cap over the whole thing.

if i ever get around to making a car "cause im the type that likes to learn that sort of crap for no reason" id machine a ledge inside the shock body that the bladder sits in so you could thread the cap on without disturbing it at all..

got my shocks built though. gonna try 350cst with 4f 3 r seems to be working with my mod car, might need to go stiffer on the stock car but who knows. only two mess around days left before the big one, which i will make full use of the 9 hours of pre qualifiying practice time ha.
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:19 PM   #4766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRon View Post
For those of you who are using the the 6 hole piston 2k combo, are you running the rcm shocks or rccx?
The six holes work in either shock, Ive run them in both.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
Thanks for the info!

Had a good weekend at the Airdrie leg of the WCICS. Took TQ in both stock and mod. Hung on for the win in stock, but stuffed it into the 2nd corner in mod, oops With a little luck I got a couple positions back and finished 2nd.

The car was great on low-grip rug with a very flowy layout. The only thing I changed all weekend was to lighten the rear diff fluid. I'll post my setup sheet, but it's virtually identical to what I ran at the Edmonton WCICS.

Does anyone else wish for a 20T center pulley? I realize 17.5 blinky isn't as popular outside North America, but it's kind of tricky to fit even a 4.0 fdr in there. Does anyone know if an Xray pulley would fit? Alternatively, are there any appropriate 64P spurs smaller than 92T?
Steve you did awesome again, thank goodness as I really had a off weekend, even the crew I travel with said they don't remember a race where I have had so many problems.

I run a RW 90 gear but have also run the smaller Xray and the Serpent gears, although I usually have to ream the holes larger as well. Something that could help you is using button head screws for the motor if your not. The key here is that if your using a cap screw, usually the shaft of the wrench is a larger diameter so it makes it even harder to get to the screws to set mesh. If you use a button head screw the shaft is almost half the diameter.

Funny about the diff fluid, as that's the same thing I ended up doing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
not sure i can get tamiya bladders without making a special interweb order but might be able to try some xray or associated ones.

in my past shocks i would set the bladder ontop of the oil and let it sink in with its own weight, then use a hex driver to gently work it into the shock body and expel excess oil/air. then place the top over it, hold it down with a finger while threading the cap over the whole thing.

if i ever get around to making a car "cause im the type that likes to learn that sort of crap for no reason" id machine a ledge inside the shock body that the bladder sits in so you could thread the cap on without disturbing it at all..

got my shocks built though. gonna try 350cst with 4f 3 r seems to be working with my mod car, might need to go stiffer on the stock car but who knows. only two mess around days left before the big one, which i will make full use of the 9 hours of pre qualifiying practice time ha.
I really like the Tamiya bladders as well but if your using the stock Serpent bladders, these are the things I do to make the shock build a little easier.

Once you have your shock fluid in the shock body and the air worked out, I take the bladder and put it in place, then I use a old dog bone, the ball end and use that to push the bladder all the way into the shock body. This usually displaces the extra oil and doesn't allow any air into the mix. The extra oil that spills over I leave until the shock is totally assembled, BUT, with my finger I will take some of that oil and coat the top of the bladder, especially the edge that the screw cap is going over, so it makes the top pop over any of the threads that seem to dislodge the bladder. Since I started to do this I have a lot less problems with the top cap messing the bladder up. After that I just set the rebound as required. I do the oil on the bladder on all makes of bladders and between that and using the "ball" to seat the bladder the shocks build pretty easy.
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:28 PM   #4767
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Default 1500 oil?

I just can't find 1500cst oil, for those that have, what make is it? And where did you get it from?
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:51 PM   #4768
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Got the stock car all laid out. just need to get some more wire to finish it up.



really hope the rpm motor works out for indoor but if not, no biggie. i bought a reedy originally for this car, but came upon a trade of something else for the new tekin. In my 12th scale i quite like it. really has a lot of rip and easily competitive with the new d3.5 cars on our track. i actually got on pace to run 9 seconds faster than tq this last week out with the tekin before i ran into some back markers. not bad for a personal best, and personal best with a blind motor night cause i didnt even change the RS timing from my old D3.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:18 AM   #4769
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I just can't find 1500cst oil, for those that have, what make is it? And where did you get it from?
Serpent America has Xceed 1,200 and 1,500 and 2,000 in stock right now, just checked the website for you.

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Old 12-04-2012, 01:13 AM   #4770
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Hey guys, can someone please fill me in on the differences between V1.5 / V2.0 / TE kits? Thanks in advance.
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