Danny-b23

iTrader: (3)

He's using 6 hole pistons and thick oil to reduce piston pack, and he measures droop over ride height. Springs are hard to compare because they all have their own little differences.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

I ran oversized pistons with 1500 and 1000cst on a low bite track recently, and it worked fine! 2000 would not be unusual for 6x1.1 or 1.3 pistons.

Thanks to orcadigital for purchasing my spare parts and springs. I still have the 2 rollers shown in the for-sale thread I linked. I am asking $350 or best offer...... I'd gladly accept a little less from someone in this thread!

98tahoeboy

iTrader: (16)

Thank you!!!!

98tahoeboy

iTrader: (16)

Thanks greatly appreciate it!!!!

98tahoeboy

iTrader: (16)

Lol yes it's really 2000cst with 6 hole pistons as stated above. I measure droop with hudy droop blocks and droop gauge. Remember I wanted to gain a little more traction so I accomplished it by simply using the cars transfer of weight.

Also Xray 2.4 would put u in the ball park for serpent white but again you have to think of progressiveness and lb difference with different companies. The 2.4 Xray springs are a half a pound heavier. Not to sound completely biased but the serpent springs have had the best feel from track to track. My next step is to try the new X-ray springs.

valk

iTrader: (13)

I have one set of whites, rest are orange, yellow and dark blue it looks like.
i could try the higher droop too this week. running 4/3. was running 3/3 which worked pretty well. no bars during practice, and after a few 12th scale heats, i reconnect the rear bar.

i guess i should have asked my question more like, what should i do with whatever comes in the box with the car ha. my LHS will not have any serpent stuff. ill have to frisk my friends for xray stuffs. or associated.


nm. i dumb
they are grey.

rc-goods

Zero Force Serpent S411 Bearing Kit Set (12pcs) (ZF-E13006)



www.rcgoods.com

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

one they come out they will always come out.

what you need to do is: if you have a tool for making centers for drill bits you can use that or get a fine tipped nail or something and make a slight dent inside the ring. When I say slight I mean slight... hair thin... heat up the aluminium piece after wards and place the bearing in.. dont burn fingers. it will stay in place until the next time you decide to make rough love with the wall.

98tahoeboy

iTrader: (16)

If you have whites and grey try my setup and put the greys up front and the whites in the rear. Should be fine.

nitro rat

iTrader: (5)

Hi guys,

I'm looking for a set up for my car on a small tight carpet indoor track. What would you suggest?

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

The race-ready chassis and the partial spare roller are still available. I'd let someone in the thread take them for $310 shipped to your door (assuming in the US). Again, the one has TRF shocks, a few ceramic bearings, v2 steering rack and motor mount, nylon spool, Exotek bumper, etc. The spare partial roller is missing shocks, steering knuckles and front shafts, and I believe a steering rack.

BigRon

iTrader: (22)

Sounds good 2 me

YGPM!

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

PM replied...... but someone else has a PM before you, so I gotta see what they say first.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

So, last night had my first running since the Australian nationals. After that event, which can only be politely described as a bit of a debacle thanks to the tyre situation (supposedly control MM36's, which were anything but!), haven't had much interest in wrenching or racing, so just put the car on track with close to the same settings as it was setup for at the nationals. Only change was to tyres (Ride Re36 Red), and to go up to Ride Blue/green all round (from green/silver).
Car felt ok to drive, not enough steering, but nicely reactive on the rides compared to the MM's.
Next up, dropped the front spring down to a green to gain the steering, this did the job, too well in fact, with the car a little nervous on the initial, and biting in the front just a bit too hard.
For the next run, was a bit pushed for time, but switched from the 4hole/450wt I was running, to 6hole/1500wt. I made my 6holes a little differently to Gary, taking a 3hole piston and then drilling 1.1mm holes in the spaces between the existing holes. Main reason for that is that I wanted the holes equally spaced around the piston, just so any flow through them is balanced, and the piston doesn't drag on the shock body. Also adjusted the front camber link, taking 1mm out of the inner mount to remove some of the steering mentioned.
Result... very impressed with the 6 hole, car much more settled on track, not reacting to the little bumps on the track, and also have good body control into the corners. Matched my best lap-time on a track not as good
For the last run of the night, moved the shocks in one hole, in an attempt to increase the corner speed. Worked well, and bettered my best lap-time by over a tenth, and improved the average laptime as well.
Racing itself wasn't great, got hit at the start of both finals... but still ended up with faster race times compared to the nationals, so very happy with progress made.

So, 6 hole = weapon

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

Up for sale!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...411-parts.html