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Old 11-20-2012, 03:12 AM   #4681
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My car felt great for the 4 runs all weekend that I did , just an over tired and slightly hung over driver let it down . The Muchmores weren't an issue to me in stock either as I only used one set for all my runs . I ran a fairly soft setup using the Exotec chassis and flex 2.0 mm top deck and serpent springs I think they were grey and black with 400 wt Muchmore oils front ant rear and 2000 in the rear 2gear serpent fear diff . It was a little loose at the start but had heaps of turn in
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:10 AM   #4682
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Well, for those that are interested, my setup is attached... it is super soft though, but that seems to be needed to get the car working well in mod at Logan. I made a couple of changes for the third qualifier, along with a new set of tyres, and it was completely different.. cutting the tyres open after the event has shown all my practise sets and finals sets have different inserts and tyre belts, and are different again from sets used for the state titles a few months back... suck's the big balls as they say!
Will now be going back to Ride's or Sorex for future events!
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:16 AM   #4683
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Hello Ed,

That's a shame about the differing tires. I enjoy reading your posts on racing and testing, but that seems like a race to forget. That would drive me nuts!!

Where those spec'ed tires for that event?

Also, looking over your setup sheet, I noticed you use some Tamiya blue x rings in your shocks. Do you happen to know the part number of them?

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:24 PM   #4684
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
a good question.. for 17.5 blinky indoor, would i be better off with a torque rotor or a rpm rotor?
gonna run a reedy. i have the 12.3x24.5 in my wgt, but wont be running that car any time soon. should i snipe the rotor for touring stock?
I think the majority of people are doing high torque big timing combos, something to try. I don't have much success with it myself, I get some pretty decent fast laps, but still run more consistent with the low torque rotors. I'm just not a good torque driver I guess.

Big Thanks to all the Serpent guys that represented at the past race, tough breaks.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:07 PM   #4685
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thankfully there will be 10 hours of available practice time at speed weekend to figure it out! I only have one tuning rotor for the reedy. dont plan to buy more so it will be between stock rotor and smallest stock legal rotor which i assume is the 1s rotor, though not actually called that to make it seem like you NEED it to have any speed in 1s racing... ahem.

still noob to car tuning. starting to learn a little bit from my 7000 vrc kms ha. i dont know why i keep trying to run mod. i get massacred and do worse than i do in stock lol.. guess its just the oppertunity to run something we dont run any other time.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:19 PM   #4686
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I don't have much success with it myself, I get some pretty decent fast laps, but still run more consistent with the low torque rotors. I'm just not a good torque driver I guess.
The old school 1/12 scale curse.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:28 PM   #4687
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The old school 1/12 scale curse.
Yup, old school habits are like chain smoking..........you know you have to quit, but you just can't. Just like I'm a clicker racer, just can't not click, even after spending a night practicing not, first race I'm back to the same thing. Bad dog, no milk bone.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:37 PM   #4688
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Yup, old school habits are like chain smoking..........you know you have to quit, but you just can't. Just like I'm a clicker racer, just can't not click, even after spending a night practicing not, first race I'm back to the same thing. Bad dog, no milk bone.
Pretty helpful next to you on the stand if I can't figure out a rhythm though. Just have to listen to your radio.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:42 PM   #4689
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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
Hello Ed,

That's a shame about the differing tires. I enjoy reading your posts on racing and testing, but that seems like a race to forget. That would drive me nuts!!

Where those spec'ed tires for that event?

Also, looking over your setup sheet, I noticed you use some Tamiya blue x rings in your shocks. Do you happen to know the part number of them?

Thanks,
Steve
Tyres were a spec and supposedly all from the same batch... MuchMore36's.

X-rings I'll find the part number tonight. I might try and jot down some thoughts from the weekend, as you might be able to tell from the setup, it's now quite different!

Ed
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:06 PM   #4690
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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
Hello Ed,

That's a shame about the differing tires. I enjoy reading your posts on racing and testing, but that seems like a race to forget. That would drive me nuts!!

Where those spec'ed tires for that event?

Also, looking over your setup sheet, I noticed you use some Tamiya blue x rings in your shocks. Do you happen to know the part number of them?

Thanks,
Steve
Steve,

I've got a bunch of the tamiya blue xrings, both 50* and 70*. I'll bring you some at the next race, or if you pm me your address, I'll drop some in the mail.

I have tried them in both ae, tamiya, and schumacher shocks, and have found they just don't seal well. The car would feel good for 2 warmup laps, and then I'd feel it get worse every lap, and have big drops of oil on the shafts by the end of the race. I can't remember if I tried both the 50 and 70, or just one. I didn't experiment with shimming, either.

-Mike
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:16 PM   #4691
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Steve,

I've got a bunch of the tamiya blue xrings, both 50* and 70*. I'll bring you some at the next race, or if you pm me your address, I'll drop some in the mail.

I have tried them in both ae, tamiya, and schumacher shocks, and have found they just don't seal well. The car would feel good for 2 warmup laps, and then I'd feel it get worse every lap, and have big drops of oil on the shafts by the end of the race. I can't remember if I tried both the 50 and 70, or just one. I didn't experiment with shimming, either.

-Mike
That be great Mike, next race is fine on the X rings. Sometimes getting the shimmimg correctly is the key.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:28 AM   #4692
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That be great Mike, next race is fine on the X rings. Sometimes getting the shimmimg correctly is the key.

Thanks,
Steve
At the moment I'm running the following in the bottom.

1 serpent white Oring closest to the piston, 1 blue xring, and 0.5mm of shims. Seem to seal well, I change the oil on Friday, and didn't touch my shocks after, although that equates to about 5runs in total!
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:58 AM   #4693
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we ran a fairly hard setup Ed, like 550 wt shock oil, and ride reds all round, the main thing that we played around with over the week end was front arm sweep to get more steering, also found a 2 deg rear block to be good.

Rhys



Quote:
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At the moment I'm running the following in the bottom.

1 serpent white Oring closest to the piston, 1 blue xring, and 0.5mm of shims. Seem to seal well, I change the oil on Friday, and didn't touch my shocks after, although that equates to about 5runs in total!
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:06 PM   #4694
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I was changing out a steering knuckle, and I found that some of the inner hub bearings were a pretty tight fit and it was making the bearing tighten up significantly. It was particularly bad with the thin 12x8mm DCJ bearings which seem very susceptible to distortion. So I bought this 12mm end mill to use as a reamer:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12mm-x-12mm-...item3f1e15b197

It works great. After giving it a few turns, the bearing slides in with a nice light fit. Also, you can see where it removed material inside the hub and it's evident that the original hole wasn't very round to begin with, thus distorting the bearing. I think I'll order a 10mm to do the rest of the hub bearings as well.
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:45 PM   #4695
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does anyone have a part number for the HD xray servo saver ? Or a recommendation for one that works good?
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