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Old 10-20-2012, 10:31 AM   #4426
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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
PM returned about the two cars and their differences. I covered the basics but if someone else remembers the rest maybe someone else will chime in.

It is a high quality kit for sure and if you get one, you will see why. There is also lots of good help on this thread too.

Steve
Got the reply thank you! So besides the Limited Edition engraved chassis, the special tools..you got special anodized Orange aluminum right? So besides being one of 300 kits... what, (performance & updated wise) has been improved over the TE kits? I'm just wondering because if I can't get my hands on one of these 300 kits I'm SOL. The TE is my only option. Are there special parts that this LE has that the TE doesn't have? or is it vice versa... any more feedback on this would be great! Here's a pic for ref.

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Old 10-20-2012, 10:44 AM   #4427
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Got the reply thank you! So besides the Limited Edition engraved chassis, the special tools..you got special anodized Orange aluminum right? So besides being one of 300 kits... what, (performance & updated wise) has been improved over the TE kits? I'm just wondering because if I can't get my hands on one of these 300 kits I'm SOL. The TE is my only option. Are there special parts that this LE has that the TE doesn't have? or is it vice versa... any more feedback on this would be great! Here's a pic for ref.

The LE with the addition of the tools is just a serialized version of a S411 V1, so it has orange versions of the V1 car parts, which where prior to the upgraded shocks, steering rack, gear diff, bumper, and body posts. All those items are now standard in the TE kit and is the way to go if your looking at getting into a S411 kit. The LE needs a lot of newer version parts to get it to the same as a TE, and getting them in orange is even harder to track down.

So in answer, yes its vice versa.
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:53 AM   #4428
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Hi David,

I have a few questions for you since you've had some time to do some testing on the car.

First off, what are your findings on chassis thickness? What do you find works best for carpet racing, the 2.0, 2.25 or the 2.50 chassis? I have gotten to the point that I can't tell the difference myself, but with several other car makers coming out with thick and thin cars I was wondering what your feeling are about this.

Now taking the above into account, what are your feelings about the split block suspension parts? The pictures of Marks car show them, but there hasn't been much talk about them. What did you run for suspension blocks? Are there any better pictures of your car or could you post some?

Finally, in a effort to get my gear diff as smooth a feeling as, lets say a Xray, what are you doing to build and break in your diff?

Thanks very much.
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:22 PM   #4429
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Had a succesful night at logan last night, feel like I'm making good progress with the car now. Was stable, but with plenty of steering.
I know I've mentioned it before, and for fear of sounding like a stuck record, but the modded top-deck on the car really has made a big improvement. On the long drive home, I've come up with a description for how...
Before, the car would turn in, then washout, the front loosing grip (and I believe this is because it over-flexed), so all the settings were done to get the car to turn mid-corner to avoid this washing... and that then started to make the car unstable elsewhere (particularly in quick direction changes).

Anyway, tried a host of things again. From the previous week, went back to 3.0 block in first run that seriously helped to settle the car down a lot over the previous week. Car did feel quite lazy though, so for the first qualifing run, dropped 1mm out of the inner camber links to get back some corner speed, and this worked a treat. More corner speed in the high speed, and better reaction in the slow speed stuff
For the second qualifier, I just changed the top deck, back to the BD7 style mounting, and this did seem to help with getting the rear of the car to rotate more, had none of the weird nervous feeling that it had had before with the old top-deck. Still a bit of a lack of rotation mid-corner, but I had other things to try out, and due to cracking a rim, was running slightly newer tyres on the rear than the front.

For the first final, I wanted to test out something that a lot of guys in the UK are running, which is a Xray T3 diff in the back of the car. It's interestingly a direct drop in (amusing given Gary's post above!), although you need to use the 50mm rear driveshafts to stop them binding on the cup joint. Thankfully, they are all a direct fit into the serpent axles, can even use the snake cross joint. The diff itself is 10g lighter than a 2gear snake, and feels a lot smoother too boot.
Unfortuantly, following the practise laps (in which it did feel smoother to drive), the start didn't go to plan, as starting on the back of the grid off the racing line and covered in dirt, gave it some power and promptly 360'd into the rope, pulling the rear camber link out of the hub... doh!

So third final, left it as is, and the car again felt better, having a smoother feel (despite heavier oil in the diff), and seemingly better throttle response... I like it! Times I'm not sure on, but I was a lot closer and on pace with guys who I've been far behind in recent weeks, so a definite improvement, and feels like I've now found that base setup for me that I can just put down and it'll work without having to do lots of crazy stuff...

Never did get rid of the mid-rotation issue, but laying the shocks in one hole on the rear should help that.

Best news of the night though, was finding out that a VBC Wildfire diff is basically a copy of the Xray, and the standard CVD dogbones fit snuggly in the serpent axles... so rather than forking out $100 bucks for the xray stuff (I borrowed the diff and axles to test!), can get the same stuff for a fair bit cheaper... on the list for next time

Setup from last night is EC Logan Practise - 20/10/2012
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:21 PM   #4430
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
The LE with the addition of the tools is just a serialized version of a S411 V1, so it has orange versions of the V1 car parts, which where prior to the upgraded shocks, steering rack, gear diff, bumper, and body posts. All those items are now standard in the TE kit and is the way to go if your looking at getting into a S411 kit. The LE needs a lot of newer version parts to get it to the same as a TE, and getting them in orange is even harder to track down.

So in answer, yes its vice versa.
THIS has been one of the MOST helpful posts for me in a LONG time. Thank you very much for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it! You sir have just saved me HUNDREDS of dollars.
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:27 AM   #4431
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Hello,

want to share a modification I made to my S411.

I cut the shaft bulkhead alu parts on both sides since I never use the screws anyway. Now there is no need to put shims under the top deck and the car can flex freely! Yesterday on a medium bite carpet the car was really good. BTW I'm using a V2 motor mount and V1 side support!
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:28 AM   #4432
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Has anyone tried a really long rear link? I'm talking outer upright to inner bulkhead. I was looking to lock the rear end all day yesterday. I had one of the fastest cars but it was unstable and the layout was very difficult, so my results don't show well.

Also, has anyone ran the front toe blocks up 1mm and the rears on the chassis? The car wanted to continue rotating late corner exit.... although most other cars behaved the same. It was hard to tell if the back needed more roll or "stiffened" up to create more lateral/side bite.
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:50 PM   #4433
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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
Has anyone tried a really long rear link? I'm talking outer upright to inner bulkhead. I was looking to lock the rear end all day yesterday. I had one of the fastest cars but it was unstable and the layout was very difficult, so my results don't show well.

Also, has anyone ran the front toe blocks up 1mm and the rears on the chassis? The car wanted to continue rotating late corner exit.... although most other cars behaved the same. It was hard to tell if the back needed more roll or "stiffened" up to create more lateral/side bite.
Longest rear link is what I'm running now, although not on carpet. Personally, I find the inner hub hole to be too nervous, car is much more consistent with the longer link.
When I did some bench testing between the two positions, the shorter one did produce a bit more camber gain, but it would all happen very quickly towards TE top of the travel. The long link, it produced a more consistent gain over the whole travel.

As for the roll centres, I don't really get this very high front, low rear thing (ive seen a number of other cars running such setups), as the front roll centre should already be higher than the rear with the blocks flat. All your doing there is taking front away, and IMO, there are better ways to deal with that than running a large split in rc, which could have other effects on how the car moves.

HiH
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:01 PM   #4434
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Longest rear link is what I'm running now, although not on carpet. Personally, I find the inner hub hole to be too nervous, car is much more consistent with the longer link.
When I did some bench testing between the two positions, the shorter one did produce a bit more camber gain, but it would all happen very quickly towards TE top of the travel. The long link, it produced a more consistent gain over the whole travel.

As for the roll centres, I don't really get this very high front, low rear thing (ive seen a number of other cars running such setups), as the front roll centre should already be higher than the rear with the blocks flat. All your doing there is taking front away, and IMO, there are better ways to deal with that than running a large split in rc, which could have other effects on how the car moves.

HiH
Ed
Thanks for the info. I've never ran the front lower mounts higher than the rear on any TC I've owned, but thought I would ask opinions before trying. I normally used to run very low front and mid to high rear on other cars (I like a lot of steering) but the Snake has plenty with equal roll centers!
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:05 AM   #4435
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Had a good practice session this weekend and got the car quite good. Its fast but sometimes a handful to drive. This on medium bite carpet. Lowering roll centers and softer springs (Tamiya blue/yellow) settled the car down nicely. Im missing some on-power steering, I think I will try some softer front springs and maybe a stiffer rear swaybar.

I have really soft rear diff oil (50w) and I like it alot better than for example 1500 or 2000 cst. I get the same laptimes but much easier to drive. It sounds really soft but I was surprised over the feeling.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:10 AM   #4436
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Hi.
I don’t feel very comfortable with the RCCX dampers of my S411. I have a Tamiya M05 with TRF dampers and tried to fit them in the Serpent although I know they are short for use in touring. The fact is that the shock cap is a couple of mm shorter than the serpent one and the body of the shock touches the shock tower. The only solution I see would be to use some shims to separate the shock from the shock tower. Is anyone using TRF dampers on his Serpent?.
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:41 AM   #4437
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How do you guys get the car below 6 mm if youre using the inner shock hole on the rear arm?
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:59 AM   #4438
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By v2, you mean a 1piece motor mount? Does the top deck rub on the layshaft gear at all upon it flexing?
I have a spare roller Im selling on here, but I may keep it and try this mod. Is there a reason one side of the part is cut slightly higher?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
Hello,

want to share a modification I made to my S411.

I cut the shaft bulkhead alu parts on both sides since I never use the screws anyway. Now there is no need to put shims under the top deck and the car can flex freely! Yesterday on a medium bite carpet the car was really good. BTW I'm using a V2 motor mount and V1 side support!
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:42 AM   #4439
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Originally Posted by Nitroblood View Post
Hi.
I dont feel very comfortable with the RCCX dampers of my S411. I have a Tamiya M05 with TRF dampers and tried to fit them in the Serpent although I know they are short for use in touring. The fact is that the shock cap is a couple of mm shorter than the serpent one and the body of the shock touches the shock tower. The only solution I see would be to use some shims to separate the shock from the shock tower. Is anyone using TRF dampers on his Serpent?.
I am. I also use the Tamiya mounting hardware (blue ballstuds) so the shock is spaced away from the mounts a bit. They work great!

Being shorter, they also work great for trying the inner arm mounts and still getting proper ride height and uptravel.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:47 AM   #4440
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does anyone know if the xray t3 ecs/djc will fit the 411?

thanks!
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