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Old 10-03-2012, 07:05 PM   #4336
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The PDF is to large, so here is a link to download it from my Dropbox folder:

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/31035638/Se...igh%20grip.pdf

In the notes you can see what I'd still like to test, but haven't gotten to jet.
You have photos ?
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:54 PM   #4337
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Hi. I've just finished rebuilding a gear diff for the first time. It was a little noisy originally and still is after the rebuild. I thought maybe there might have been rough teeth on the gears so I tried using lapping paste in it to bed in the teeth but that made no difference. Despite the noise problem the diff feels smooth enough. My main question is, when attaching the sun gear to the diff half, how tight should I do up the screw that holds it in place? Tightened right up the sun gear still spins but I wonder if this is the right thing to or not and was hoping someone with a little more experience than me might offer some advice.

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Old 10-04-2012, 12:49 AM   #4338
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What do you want pictures of?

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Originally Posted by AUSCAN View Post
Hi. I've just finished rebuilding a gear diff for the first time. It was a little noisy originally and still is after the rebuild. I thought maybe there might have been rough teeth on the gears so I tried using lapping paste in it to bed in the teeth but that made no difference. Despite the noise problem the diff feels smooth enough. My main question is, when attaching the sun gear to the diff half, how tight should I do up the screw that holds it in place? Tightened right up the sun gear still spins but I wonder if this is the right thing to or not and was hoping someone with a little more experience than me might offer some advice.

Cheers
Is it a V1 or V2 diff? Both diffs do have a clicking noise, do to the quiet large teeth i guess.
The screw you are talking about, is the one that holds the large gear attached to the outdrive right? That screw needs to be tight and you can also ad a small drop of lock tight, to be sure it doesn't get loos.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:12 AM   #4339
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What do you want pictures of?



Is it a V1 or V2 diff? Both diffs do have a clicking noise, do to the quiet large teeth i guess.
The screw you are talking about, is the one that holds the large gear attached to the outdrive right? That screw needs to be tight and you can also ad a small drop of lock tight, to be sure it doesn't get loos.
Hi Rasmus.

Thank you for replying to my question. It's a V1 diff and yes you are correct re the screw holding the gear to the outdrive. I have done the screws up tight and put a spot of threadlock on the threads of the screws. I've just been wondering if I should have backed off the screw 1/4 turn perhaps to make sure everything ran free.

Thanks again.

Tony
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:33 AM   #4340
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Hi Rasmus.

Thank you for replying to my question. It's a V1 diff and yes you are correct re the screw holding the gear to the outdrive. I have done the screws up tight and put a spot of threadlock on the threads of the screws. I've just been wondering if I should have backed off the screw 1/4 turn perhaps to make sure everything ran free.

Thanks again.

Tony
I just left out the washers under the big gears! Works fine and smooth without leeking!
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:24 AM   #4341
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I just left out the washers under the big gears! Works fine and smooth without leeking!
The screws needs to be tight, but yes, test how many shims is needed. I think that building the diff like the manual shows, will give you a too tight diff. But when not using the large washer, sand down the backside of the gear. Just to make sure there is no edge to rip the X-ring.

The V2 diff has a smoother diff action, and less clicking noise. But with enough running and the correct amount of spacing, you should be able to get a smooth diff.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:01 AM   #4342
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I just bought one of these. I'll be setting it up for a relatively low grip asphalt. My first thought it so soften it up.. another thoughts on getting it dialed? Also what kind of gearing works for 17.5?

Matt
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:06 AM   #4343
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I just bought one of these. I'll be setting it up for a relatively low grip asphalt. My first thought it so soften it up.. another thoughts on getting it dialed? Also what kind of gearing works for 17.5?

Matt
we race at a very Low grip track and the box set up orange frnt yellow rear works fine re the suspension.WE run 21.5 blinky so you need to tell us wether it is blinky or turbo software re the roll out

Going up sping rates and using the cars natural flex works fine but keep the shocks soft to make it less twitcchy than the factory oil specs
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:22 AM   #4344
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we race at a very Low grip track and the box set up orange frnt yellow rear works fine re the suspension.WE run 21.5 blinky so you need to tell us wether it is blinky or turbo software re the roll out

Going up sping rates and using the cars natural flex works fine but keep the shocks soft to make it less twitcchy than the factory oil specs
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Hi,

also new and still waiting delivery of my TE. Wouldn't a thinner diff oil in the back (1000-1200) also help?

Faan
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:54 AM   #4345
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Hi,

also new and still waiting delivery of my TE. Wouldn't a thinner diff oil in the back (1000-1200) also help?

Faan
it just depends on your driving style, the track, how you build your diff and your oil brand...

For example, Mustafa builds his diff with 1500 and I build mine with 1500 they do not feel the same at all. mine always feels softer compared to his. so I usually put 1000cst more compared to his setups to be able to get the same feel.

so finding the right setup for the diff is alot of trial and error. also stick with the same brand oil....
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:12 AM   #4346
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its just going to be 17.5 blinky....

i also have a question of motors, ive got a reedy sonic and a trinity revtech. ive gotta put one in the s411 and one in my s120lt 1/12th scale. anyone have a preference either direction?

Matt
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:41 AM   #4347
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Originally Posted by mdwalsh View Post
its just going to be 17.5 blinky....

i also have a question of motors, ive got a reedy sonic and a trinity revtech. ive gotta put one in the s411 and one in my s120lt 1/12th scale. anyone have a preference either direction?

Matt
I'd go ReVtech with a 12.5 hi-torque in the TC. I currently run that combo and I've only been outmotor'd by a hand-wound D3.5!
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:56 AM   #4348
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I'd go ReVtech with a 12.5 hi-torque in the TC. I currently run that combo and I've only been outmotor'd by a hand-wound D3.5!
where should i start with gearing?

Matt
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:40 AM   #4349
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I'd go ReVtech with a 12.5 hi-torque in the TC. I currently run that combo and I've only been outmotor'd by a hand-wound D3.5!
Who sells a hand-wound 17.5 motors?
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:05 PM   #4350
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Who sells a hand-wound 17.5 motors?
I don't know specifically but I was told a stupid fast motor I saw was hand-wound.....! And it was a D3 I think, not 3.5, sorry!

For ReVtech gearing..... depends on the track! What size?
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