R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-27-2012, 01:36 AM   #4291
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 122
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hello everyone,

I am having a small driving issue with the s411 since the begging, i have a lack of on throttle steering on the exit of the turn. I have tried almost everything I can think, and maybe it's driving fault, so i need help.

I run 10.5 justock ratio 5.0, Vtec 30X tyres in asphalt
S411 first units (2.5 main chasis, 2.0 top deck) Original steering rack.
Front:
1 camber, ff2 (+1mm spacer), fr1 (2mm spacer), downstops 6mm, ride height 5mm, 1.4mm antiroll bar
inner shims 2.5mm, outer shims 0
450 cst, 3 holes, orange spring, position #3
Rear:
2 camber, rf0 (no spacer), rr2.5 (0.5mm spacer), downstops 4mm, ride height 5.5mm, 1.2mm antiroll bar
inner shims 3mm, outer shims 2mm
400cst, 3 holes, yellow spring, position #5

I have tried, in the front spool, 500k, and 200k, and in the rear 1k, 1.2k and 3k.
I am using protoform P37

I know that for a stock class I should use spool in front, but I am stuck with gear diff to avoid wear in the cups.

I have in mind buying the felx deck, but I donm't know if it will help.

Any tips??


regards
jimjav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 03:02 AM   #4292
Tech Master
 
Benzaah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,967
Trader Rating: 21 (96%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjav View Post
Hello everyone,

I am having a small driving issue with the s411 since the begging, i have a lack of on throttle steering on the exit of the turn.
I am using protoform P37

I know that for a stock class I should use spool in front, but I am stuck with gear diff to avoid wear in the cups.

I have in mind buying the felx deck, but I donm't know if it will help.

Any tips??


regards
Ok your biggest issue IMO is that body. I had a number of set up issues when trialling the P37 body especially loose on exit. Get yourself either a Speed6 Mazda or an LTCR. I prefer the Mazda for a more consistent(albeit slower) lap time. I run a spool in the front and I have had little drive wear in 6 months running 17.5 boosted on asphalt. You could try out the new nylon spool from the S411 sport.
__________________
AERCCC - ARCR - RRCSA

Adelaide RC

Walter Rc Hobby
Benzaah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 05:25 AM   #4293
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,173
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjav View Post
Hello everyone,

I am having a small driving issue with the s411 since the begging, i have a lack of on throttle steering on the exit of the turn. I have tried almost everything I can think, and maybe it's driving fault, so i need help.

I run 10.5 justock ratio 5.0, Vtec 30X tyres in asphalt
S411 first units (2.5 main chasis, 2.0 top deck) Original steering rack.
Front:
1 camber, ff2 (+1mm spacer), fr1 (2mm spacer), downstops 6mm, ride height 5mm, 1.4mm antiroll bar
inner shims 2.5mm, outer shims 0
450 cst, 3 holes, orange spring, position #3
Rear:
2 camber, rf0 (no spacer), rr2.5 (0.5mm spacer), downstops 4mm, ride height 5.5mm, 1.2mm antiroll bar
inner shims 3mm, outer shims 2mm
400cst, 3 holes, yellow spring, position #5

I have tried, in the front spool, 500k, and 200k, and in the rear 1k, 1.2k and 3k.
I am using protoform P37

I know that for a stock class I should use spool in front, but I am stuck with gear diff to avoid wear in the cups.

I have in mind buying the felx deck, but I donm't know if it will help.

Any tips??


regards
Given it's on-power exit, changing the rear of the car first is the best option. Couple of things to try, in no particular order
Harder rear bar - try 1.4mm
Flat rear blocks (0.5mm/0.5mm shim under the blocks)
Rear blocks same height or higher than front (not sure I understand what you've done on the front... replaced the 4mm with a 2mm under the FR block?)
Harder rear spring - Serpent Black, or try a different type (HPI Pink/Silver, Ride Red/Blue's, although I prefer same spring front and rear).

I'd use a spool also for sure. After a couple of months running mod, the spool cups still look in decent condition.

HiH
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | Hobbywing |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 06:01 AM   #4294
Tech Apprentice
 
RasCalDK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 50
Default

I can't figure out how you have placed the links? But to get the rear more lively, you should use the inner hole on the upright. This really frees up the rear, if you are running the outer hole.
And again... use the spool
If you put some shrink tube around the outdrive, you can also use tape, then you can grease it up. I have had almost no wear at all, just keep it greased.
You can checkout my setup: http://serpent.com/product/400012/setups/ (411 - Callesen - carpet)
It's got loads of steering, also on power, but the rear keeps following the car nice and predictable.
__________________
Rasmus T. Callesen - Denmark

Serpent S411 - Serpent.com/2-speed.de
Hobbywing Xerun V3 and Thunder Power Z3R motors - ToniSport
RasCalDK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 06:11 AM   #4295
Tech Master
 
cwoods34's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Indy-freakin'-ana
Posts: 1,152
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Ok your biggest issue IMO is that body. I had a number of set up issues when trialling the P37 body especially loose on exit. Get yourself either a Speed6 Mazda or an LTCR. I prefer the Mazda for a more consistent(albeit slower) lap time. I run a spool in the front and I have had little drive wear in 6 months running 17.5 boosted on asphalt. You could try out the new nylon spool from the S411 sport.
I agree 100%..... the P37 is smooth but it always pushed on-throttle for me. In my testing when I switched to the P37 I had to go thicker rear diff oil and change the uptravel. I'm not saying it isn't a good body..... It makes good grip but isn't very aggressive.

Definitely try the LTCR and the nylon spool. After some packs on a small track (using tons of brake) my spool shows no sign of wear. It comes with 2 aluminum sleeves that prevent outdrive warping.
__________________
Stop holding bitterness deep in your bum soul.
cwoods34 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 06:41 AM   #4296
Tech Adept
 
FaanP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Africa
Posts: 176
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
No need for DJC in the rear. The purpose of them is to cope with the steering angle at the front. The rear is mostly straight all the time.

-Mike
Thanks Mike ....
__________________
When in doubt - GAS IT!!
FaanP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 08:16 AM   #4297
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 122
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Ok your biggest issue IMO is that body. I had a number of set up issues when trialling the P37 body especially loose on exit. Get yourself either a Speed6 Mazda or an LTCR. I prefer the Mazda for a more consistent(albeit slower) lap time. I run a spool in the front and I have had little drive wear in 6 months running 17.5 boosted on asphalt. You could try out the new nylon spool from the S411 sport.
I have a very used mazda at home, so I will give it another oportunity.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Given it's on-power exit, changing the rear of the car first is the best option. Couple of things to try, in no particular order
Harder rear bar - try 1.4mm
Flat rear blocks (0.5mm/0.5mm shim under the blocks)
Rear blocks same height or higher than front (not sure I understand what you've done on the front... replaced the 4mm with a 2mm under the FR block?)
Harder rear spring - Serpent Black, or try a different type (HPI Pink/Silver, Ride Red/Blue's, although I prefer same spring front and rear).

I'd use a spool also for sure. After a couple of months running mod, the spool cups still look in decent condition.

HiH
Ed
I have black springs, 1.4 sway bar, and shims, so I have a lot to check.

Yes, it was a mistake I have it as stock under the FR block, 4mm. Sorry

Quote:
Originally Posted by RasCalDK View Post
I can't figure out how you have placed the links? But to get the rear more lively, you should use the inner hole on the upright. This really frees up the rear, if you are running the outer hole.
And again... use the spool
If you put some shrink tube around the outdrive, you can also use tape, then you can grease it up. I have had almost no wear at all, just keep it greased.
You can checkout my setup: http://serpent.com/product/400012/setups/ (411 - Callesen - carpet)
It's got loads of steering, also on power, but the rear keeps following the car nice and predictable.
I Have long rear links, inner in the chassis and outer in the hubs. I will try the in a shorter way

Good idea The shrink tube on the spool, maybe I will use the nylon one, to reduce weight.

Thanks also for cwoods

I will try some of the ideas you give me for next race in two weeks so I will buy some new sets of tyres to test almost everything!!!

Cheers

javier
jimjav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 09:41 AM   #4298
Tech Addict
 
Geberit's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 744
Default

Is there only 4* graphite C-hub for the 411? I would like to try 6* but I only find the alu option.
Geberit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 09:56 AM   #4299
Tech Master
 
cwoods34's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Indy-freakin'-ana
Posts: 1,152
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
Is there only 4* graphite C-hub for the 411? I would like to try 6* but I only find the alu option.
I've only ever seen the aluminum versions..... You could run the 4*, 1mm shim under the front block, then 3mm under the rear front block which would give you 5.5ish?
__________________
Stop holding bitterness deep in your bum soul.
cwoods34 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 10:14 AM   #4300
Tech Addict
 
Geberit's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 744
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
I've only ever seen the aluminum versions..... You could run the 4*, 1mm shim under the front block, then 3mm under the rear front block which would give you 5.5ish?
Yes, but then I get the side effects of the angled A-arms.
Geberit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2012, 08:33 AM   #4301
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 25,177
Trader Rating: 140 (100%+)
Default

Here is the set up that I ran yesterday , medium traction asphalt track. Easy to drive with a little controllable slide very good on power.


Last edited by Marcos.J; 09-30-2012 at 11:21 AM.
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2012, 09:39 AM   #4302
Tech Elite
 
dawgmeat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,385
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
Here is the set up that I ran yesterday , medium traction asphalt track. Easy to drive with a little controllable slide very good on power.

Gear diff oil is pretty heavy, traction must have been through the roof
dawgmeat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2012, 10:20 AM   #4303
Tech Addict
 
Geberit's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 744
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat View Post
Gear diff oil is pretty heavy, traction must have been through the roof
On medium grip asphalt I'm using 800 or 1000 in my V2 diffs

Also I noticed that rear long 1.4mm ARB gives more stability than 1.2mm in such conditions.
Geberit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2012, 10:24 AM   #4304
Tech Master
 
cwoods34's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Indy-freakin'-ana
Posts: 1,152
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
On medium grip asphalt I'm using 800 or 1000 in my V2 diffs

Also I noticed that rear long 1.4mm ARB gives more stability than 1.2mm in such conditions.
I've been running a long 1.3 rear bar, and I personally like it better than a short 1.2, because it feels smoother but holds a bit more in high-speed turns.
__________________
Stop holding bitterness deep in your bum soul.
cwoods34 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2012, 10:30 AM   #4305
Tech Addict
 
Geberit's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 744
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
I've been running a long 1.3 rear bar, and I personally like it better than a short 1.2, because it feels smoother but holds a bit more in high-speed turns.
In my last race I had a constant trouble in a chicane (the back was stepping out) first I was using (rear) a 1.2mm long ARB then changed to 1.2mm short and ultimately went for a long 1.4mm with this setting the back was sticking like it should.
Geberit is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Batu Kawan Rc Track Tongga Malaysian R/C Racers 10418 06-28-2016 11:34 PM
DRCW Raceway Chesapeake, VA // Asphalt / Indoor Off Road / Outdoor Off Road stiltskin Racing Forum 10278 11-14-2014 07:39 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:10 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0