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Old 08-30-2012, 06:28 AM   #4111
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Originally Posted by BCDK View Post
Hi.

About leaking diffs. and the big O-ring.

All new batch of diffs. are delivered with a new big O-ring. The new O-ring is made of silicone (same material as the x-ring in the diffs.) and is slightly bigger in the material than the old black one. I have no leaking at all with the new O-ring. Soon you can order the new O-ring as a spare part. Serpent told me, that they should be available this week. I don't know the order no. yet.

With the old black O-ring you can use Asso greenslime to prevent leaking as some other mentioned. It really helps. Also be sure to tighten the screws even not to flex the diff. cups.

When I assemble the diff. i sand all gears on the backside. Especially the two big metal gears, as I want to have slightly less pressure on the x-ring to let the outdrives run smoother. Then I use Tamiya blue damper grease on the x-ring, but you can also use Asso greenslime. As I wrote above, I have no problems with leaking.
Interesting what you say about sanding the gears. My 2 gear diff is fine, no issues with leaking, but my 4gear has an odd action, and feels like it has more friction in it around the outdrives.. What grit are you sandng the gears with?

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Old 08-30-2012, 06:32 AM   #4112
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The older kits come with orange/yellow.... I can't remember for the TE, but orange/yellow is too stiff in my opinion. My favorite Serpent spring combinations have been grays (14.8) front and rear, OR gray front and white (13.0) rear.

Black (16.0) front and grey rear is a good combo, too, but I typically like the car to be really smooth.

As for swaybars..... 1.2 rear/1.4 front is the default.
The TE springs are orange/yellow and swaybars 1.4 front/short 1.4 rear/long
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:36 AM   #4113
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All Serpent 1/10 eTC kits come with Orange/Yellow, including the Sport and FF

Kind of seems like someone thinks that is the magic sping combo... ( not for most people ).

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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
The older kits come with orange/yellow.... I can't remember for the TE, but orange/yellow is too stiff in my opinion. My favorite Serpent spring combinations have been grays (14.8) front and rear, OR gray front and white (13.0) rear.

Black (16.0) front and grey rear is a good combo, too, but I typically like the car to be really smooth.

As for swaybars..... 1.2 rear/1.4 front is the default.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:57 AM   #4114
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Interesting what you say about sanding the gears. My 2 gear diff is fine, no issues with leaking, but my 4gear has an odd action, and feels like it has more friction in it around the outdrives.. What grit are you sandng the gears with?

Cheers
Ed
400. You may try the sanding and assembling the diff. several times, before you get the result you need. Since the worlds I use 4 small Xceed plastic gears together with 2 large standard gears. The plastic gears I sand to get a "clean" back side with no casting burr. The large gears the same and also to the minimize the pressure on the x-rings. When you assemble the large gear on the outdrive, you must have a little play. Otherwise you have a pressure on the x-rings, the x-rings again on the outdrives. Then the x-rings are like a brake. The diff. must run free.

Please also note, that the diff. house has been slightly developed. If you have a diff. house from one of the first TE production, you can have problems with the diff. like leaking or odd action. Recently I bought a new diff., and this diff. has a different action than my diff. from the TE kit - more free and smoother action. The new diff. comes with the new silicone O-ring.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:08 AM   #4115
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Default Diif Issues

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Originally Posted by Toughbeard View Post
when building the diff make sure you drill the closed end of the screw hole so that trapped oil can get out.

when building the diff make sure you sand the flat sides so that they fit flush to each other. I noticed some had mold flashes that causes leaks and wobbly movement.

do not overfill your diff.
Its realy make sense. The hydraulic lock can be the rooth cause of this leaking issues. Let's use the drill to try to solve it.

About the big o-ring, I took a spare diff last week end, and the oring is already the new white one. I couln'd notice any dimension change, but perhaps my foult. Double check next work time.

Thank you by now for the support.
Lets prepare the Snakes to our National in November here in Brazil.
You are welcome here.

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Old 08-30-2012, 03:02 PM   #4116
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Its realy make sense. The hydraulic lock can be the rooth cause of this leaking issues. Let's use the drill to try to solve it.

About the big o-ring, I took a spare diff last week end, and the oring is already the new white one. I couln'd notice any dimension change, but perhaps my foult. Double check next work time.

Thank you by now for the support.
Lets prepare the Snakes to our National in November here in Brazil.
You are welcome here.

Cestari
it may just be an illusion too one is black the other clear. and I really cant measure the damn things as they are soft.

but we know the issue was not the orings as we have diffs without o rings and they dont leak. when you look at your diff while spinning if it wobbles they it will leak. that has always been the case with the diffs we seen built. the ones that run true only leaks from the outdrives after some use.
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Old 08-31-2012, 09:57 PM   #4117
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Originally Posted by Cestaric View Post
Its realy make sense. The hydraulic lock can be the rooth cause of this leaking issues. Let's use the drill to try to solve it.

About the big o-ring, I took a spare diff last week end, and the oring is already the new white one. I couln'd notice any dimension change, but perhaps my foult. Double check next work time.

Thank you by now for the support.
Lets prepare the Snakes to our National in November here in Brazil.
You are welcome here.

Cestari
Ok, I thought about this for a while now, and my biggest question is, why are you putting diff lube in the screw holes? I guess I just don't understand........when I fill the diff I only fill to the top of the small gear cross pin, any more and it just gets pushed out, which I guess could cause your hydraulic lock issue with the screw, but this would also mean its over filled anyways.

The wobble diffs where a problem for sure with the first batch of TE cars but was suppose to be rectified.
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Old 08-31-2012, 09:59 PM   #4118
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You have photos send for me - dennispickthall@hotmail.com

I haven't forgot about the pics but the first ones I took are absolutely terrible........I really need a better camera and lessons on how to use one.
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:34 AM   #4119
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Ok, I thought about this for a while now, and my biggest question is, why are you putting diff lube in the screw holes? I guess I just don't understand........when I fill the diff I only fill to the top of the small gear cross pin, any more and it just gets pushed out, which I guess could cause your hydraulic lock issue with the screw, but this would also mean its over filled anyways.

The wobble diffs where a problem for sure with the first batch of TE cars but was suppose to be rectified.
im still using my original Wobbly diffs, they still dont leak, definately dont have oil in the screw holes. but i also tighten mine till i cant no more, i sort of stop at the feeling of stripping the housing , its all by feel for me. but very tight, and they dont leak.
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Old 09-01-2012, 02:33 PM   #4120
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I just bought a TE and wondering what parts should I get ahead of time.

Thanks
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Old 09-01-2012, 03:10 PM   #4121
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I just bought a TE and wondering what parts should I get ahead of time.

Thanks
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Carpet or asphalt? I'm not sure what compound of parts the TE comes with, but the hard plastic parts work great in most situations. The soft parts can tame the car down a little bit, but develop slop easier so you may find yourself replacing the casters/knuckles more often as they wear out.

I'd get the spring set.... the orange and yellow are a little stiff to start with. Also, spare knuckles and caster blocks just in case, like any TC. Honestly the only part I've broke on the car this year was a driveshaft coupling, and the occasional driveshaft blade.
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Old 09-01-2012, 03:48 PM   #4122
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Carpet or asphalt? I'm not sure what compound of parts the TE comes with, but the hard plastic parts work great in most situations. The soft parts can tame the car down a little bit, but develop slop easier so you may find yourself replacing the casters/knuckles more often as they wear out.

I'd get the spring set.... the orange and yellow are a little stiff to start with. Also, spare knuckles and caster blocks just in case, like any TC. Honestly the only part I've broke on the car this year was a driveshaft coupling, and the occasional driveshaft blade.
Thanks for the help. It will be carpet.

Thanks 1airborne
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Old 09-01-2012, 05:14 PM   #4123
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Thanks for the help. It will be carpet.

Thanks 1airborne
Th best combo I've found, and I believe Johhny Wishbone agrees, is the 2.25mm chassis and 2.5 upper deck. If you run mod you might try the 2.0 upper deck for a bit more midcorner grip. Definitely get hard arms if you don't have them already.... they make the biggest difference. The other hard suspension parts also help but I wouldn't worry about replacing them until the stock parts break.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:23 PM   #4124
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Th best combo I've found, and I believe Johhny Wishbone agrees, is the 2.25mm chassis and 2.5 upper deck. If you run mod you might try the 2.0 upper deck for a bit more midcorner grip. Definitely get hard arms if you don't have them already.... they make the biggest difference. The other hard suspension parts also help but I wouldn't worry about replacing them until the stock parts break.
Is the 2.25mm chassis and 2.5 upper deck an after market part or do they come on the Team Edition?

Thanks 1airborne
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:56 PM   #4125
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Is the 2.25mm chassis and 2.5 upper deck an after market part or do they come on the Team Edition?

Thanks 1airborne
It comes with the 2.25 lower and 2.0 upper, which works great no doubt.
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