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Old 08-21-2012, 12:44 PM   #4051
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Default mounts

split mounts allow for additional flex of the chassis.




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Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
And what's up with the split mounts for the A-arms?
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:40 PM   #4052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
split mounts allow for additional flex of the chassis.
Oh i know what the mounts do I wanted to know if Serpent is maybe working on something like that. Just curious nothing else

But thanks for the reply!
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:01 PM   #4053
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Default Carpet setup

Hi. Y'all. What's the best s411 setup for carpet track 100 x 60 size?


Anyone tested it on carpet how does it do compared to tamiya and X-ray cars?

Thank
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:15 PM   #4054
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S411 SE, box stock, great starting point for carpet. Running dual gear diffs.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:42 PM   #4055
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I always groove the pins use loctite and heatshrink or the top holders.
I am really liking all the new blood on the thread.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:56 PM   #4056
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
I did once , I put locktite on the screw then I used a shrink wrap around it. Never had any issues again
Me too
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:14 AM   #4057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
Oh i know what the mounts do I wanted to know if Serpent is maybe working on something like that. Just curious nothing else

But thanks for the reply!
Serpent should be in the progress of making the split blocks. But it takes time to develop, and with so many big races at the moment both EC and WC, it could take 1-2 month before it is ready.
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:58 AM   #4058
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I was rebuilding my shocks a while ago and changed one of the standard o-rings for a green Much More o-ring. Much better. This together with 1 mm hole in the cap resulted in very little rebound. On track the car had way more grip, almost to much roll. Much better over the bumps.

Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? Im using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
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Old 08-22-2012, 01:20 AM   #4059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
I was rebuilding my shocks a while ago and changed one of the standard o-rings for a green Much More o-ring. Much better. This together with 1 mm hole in the cap resulted in very little rebound. On track the car had way more grip, almost to much roll. Much better over the bumps.

Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? Im using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
same here regarding the rear damper cups so much that it sometimes shakes the poor little threads loose and as for the O,Rings I have been using orings form our local o'ring supplier( you guesed it im a hydraulics tech)
i will be trialing viton orings in the near future as they are harder and LOVE SILICON OIL
trick will be getting the size abolutely right but we are talking cents not dollar and i buy them by the 1000
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Old 08-22-2012, 03:58 AM   #4060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
I was rebuilding my shocks a while ago and changed one of the standard o-rings for a green Much More o-ring. Much better. This together with 1 mm hole in the cap resulted in very little rebound. On track the car had way more grip, almost to much roll. Much better over the bumps.

Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? Im using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
i find certain rims flex more than others. the speedmind rims are quite stiff, and i dont have any rubbing. where as the Sorex schumacher rims flex more, and yes they rub.
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Old 08-22-2012, 04:49 AM   #4061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
i find certain rims flex more than others. the speedmind rims are quite stiff, and i dont have any rubbing. where as the Sorex schumacher rims flex more, and yes they rub.
Nearly every Serpent drivers (and other brands too!!) has that problem, if you use the outside hole in the wishbones. Only very stiff dishes don't touch the cup.

I suggest, you cut the cup and check the inside of the dishes after every race. If you have black spots on the rims, you have to cut more of the cup.

If you don't, you rear tire may brake a little while cornering, and then you can get a loose rear end.
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:14 AM   #4062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
I was rebuilding my shocks a while ago and changed one of the standard o-rings for a green Much More o-ring. Much better. This together with 1 mm hole in the cap resulted in very little rebound. On track the car had way more grip, almost to much roll. Much better over the bumps.

Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? Im using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
I also had problems with the new dampers. Not with the o-rings but with the membrane.

Now I do the dampers this way: I use the standard o-rings, but I use Tamiya damper grease (the blue one) while assembling the bottom parts. The membrane I put into the top, where I have drilled an extra 1 mm hole in the plastic like Holmenkollen and others too. I fill the damper body with oil, put the top on, press the piston slowly up as high as I want the rebound. Oil will come out of the standard hole in the aluminium top. While I still hold the piston in the correct position, I finally screw the top on the damper body. The rebound can be almost like zero that way if you want.

I have no binding in the dampers. I have not tried other o-ring brands, as I have not felt any need yet. I have some new Tamiya blue competition o-rings in my bag. Maybe I will try them.
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:38 AM   #4063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
I was rebuilding my shocks a while ago and changed one of the standard o-rings for a green Much More o-ring. Much better. This together with 1 mm hole in the cap resulted in very little rebound. On track the car had way more grip, almost to much roll. Much better over the bumps.
I've been using my shocks for a while with two tamiya blue o-rings in the bottom of the shocks. Makes the action much smoother, as they have a lot less friction than the standard serpent O-rings. However, as they are a little thinner, they don't quite seal the shock as well. To rectify this, I've added 0.7mm worth of shims between the shock body and the upper o-ring, which helps to squeeze them onto the shaft.

Quote:
Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? Im using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
Had the same issue first time out with a set of Much-More tires, so I just cut the ball cup back a bit. 3 meetings later, no rubbing, and no issues

HiH
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:04 AM   #4064
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For those of you that use heatshrink around the end of the CVD to stop the pin from coming out.... Why are you also using the grub screw ? If the pin is contained, why both with the grub screw at all ?

I would think without the grub screw the entire assembly would be more "free". That is the reason I started running the TOP rings..

Thanks in advance...
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:10 AM   #4065
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We have been running Solaris tires as a spec here and the rim is chamfered . With previous wheels we used a deburring tool to chamfer it .
One or two rotations around the wheel and it has a nice bevel. ( it will be fine as long as it is within the rules you race with, some rules will not allow you to touch the rim at all )

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/brasscr...tool-t090.html



Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
I've been using my shocks for a while with two tamiya blue o-rings in the bottom of the shocks. Makes the action much smoother, as they have a lot less friction than the standard serpent O-rings. However, as they are a little thinner, they don't quite seal the shock as well. To rectify this, I've added 0.7mm worth of shims between the shock body and the upper o-ring, which helps to squeeze them onto the shaft.



Had the same issue first time out with a set of Much-More tires, so I just cut the ball cup back a bit. 3 meetings later, no rubbing, and no issues

HiH
Ed
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