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Old 08-07-2012, 06:34 AM   #3976
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Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
Great tip!
Iīve read that some people are using a set screw instead so the top deck can flex a little bit more.
With the V2 mount, there's no need, as the layshaft and motor are connected, so can't flex apart, which is what can happen on the kit one if you don't use the top deck screw to hold the mount in place, and hence strip spurs.

My trick with the motor mounts is inspired by the BD7 pics from the worlds... gonna try out using the V2 mount, but with the V1 central piece, and only bolting down with the front centre topdeck screw, and not using the rear most layshaft screws... will be very interesting to see how it affects the car.
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Last edited by TryHard; 08-07-2012 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:40 AM   #3977
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
For mod I'm going to be using a 80t - 81t spur 48pitch
Se attached
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File Type: pdf Serpent S411 Gearing Spring x English 48 dp.pdf (104.3 KB, 118 views)
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:06 AM   #3978
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
With the V2 mount, there's no need, as the layshaft and motor are connected, so can't flex apart, which is what can happen on the kit one if you don't use the top deck screw to hold the mount in place, and hence strip spurs.

My trick with the motor mounts is inspired by the BD7 pics from the worlds... gonna try out using the V2 mount, but with the V1 central piece, and only bolting down with the front centre topdeck screw, and not using the rear most layshaft screws... will be very interesting to see how it affects the car.
I'm a little confused about this V1/V2. What part numbers do they have and what comes with the S411te?

Thanks
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:06 AM   #3979
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I don't have the parts #'s in front of me, bit the kit comes with the v1. The v1 motor mount is seperate from the layshaft mount, and has a center support for the topdeck. The v2 has motor and layshaft mount in one solid piece, with no topdeck support. Though it is possible to combine the two to retain the center mount.
The combined setup is what I've been running lately, though I've been suffering with a little too much rear grip on entry/exit.
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:36 AM   #3980
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Originally Posted by jsorwell View Post
I don't have the parts #'s in front of me, bit the kit comes with the v1. The v1 motor mount is seperate from the layshaft mount, and has a center support for the topdeck. The v2 has motor and layshaft mount in one solid piece, with no topdeck support. Though it is possible to combine the two to retain the center mount.
The combined setup is what I've been running lately, though I've been suffering with a little too much rear grip on entry/exit.
Oh, so this is the V2: http://www.serpent.com/product/401451/
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:57 AM   #3981
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Correct
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:41 PM   #3982
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
My trick with the motor mounts is inspired by the BD7 pics from the worlds... gonna try out using the V2 mount, but with the V1 central piece, and only bolting down with the front centre topdeck screw, and not using the rear most layshaft screws... will be very interesting to see how it affects the car.
Been there, done that shortly after the V2 was released, you'll like it.

The setscrew mod for the V1 (2Pce mount) works well, if you require more flex you can also cut one leg of the top deck, the side opposite the motor.

For the steering interference issue with the lipo tape holder you can eyeball the angle of the arm and grind about 1mm of the plastic off to give you the clearance you need for full lock. I think there may even be pics of that in here further back.
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:45 PM   #3983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsorwell View Post
I don't have the parts #'s in front of me, bit the kit comes with the v1. The v1 motor mount is seperate from the layshaft mount, and has a center support for the topdeck. The v2 has motor and layshaft mount in one solid piece, with no topdeck support. Though it is possible to combine the two to retain the center mount.
The combined setup is what I've been running lately, though I've been suffering with a little too much rear grip on entry/exit.
Post your setup, maybe we can spot something that could help you out.
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:12 PM   #3984
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Here's what I ended with last weekend:
Front
Shocks, 3 on tower, 2 on arm, 500wt/3hole red ride spring
Short camber link, 4mm in/ 0 out
2ff/1.5fr w/1mm shim, arms middle 5.5 droop
3mm ack, 1.6 bar(front rolled too much mid corner w/1.4)

Rear
Shocks- 4 tower, 2 arm 500wt/3hole, blue ride spring
Short link, 5mm in/3mm out
0rf/ 2.5rr 1mm shim, 2mm spacers behind arm 5.25 droop
1.4 bar my on front of arm

1200 diff/ spool
V1/v2 mount, Std topdeck exotek chassis

Car was easy to drive and consistent, but looking pick up 2-3 tenths
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:36 PM   #3985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsorwell View Post
Here's what I ended with last weekend:
Front
Shocks, 3 on tower, 2 on arm, 500wt/3hole red ride spring
Short camber link, 4mm in/ 0 out
2ff/1.5fr w/1mm shim, arms middle 5.5 droop
3mm ack, 1.6 bar(front rolled too much mid corner w/1.4)

Rear
Shocks- 4 tower, 2 arm 500wt/3hole, blue ride spring
Short link, 5mm in/3mm out
0rf/ 2.5rr 1mm shim, 2mm spacers behind arm 5.25 droop
1.4 bar my on front of arm

1200 diff/ spool
V1/v2 mount, Std topdeck exotek chassis



Car was easy to drive and consistent, but looking pick up 2-3 tenths
I assume your on asphalt? I think part of your too much grip on corner entry/exit is from running the short upper camber links in the rear at least, try a med or long rear link. I'd actually run med or long links front and rear and then re-adjust the spacers.
What make of tires are you running and what sauce? How much camber do you run front and rear? Is the surface prepped? You could also adjust your droop so you have a little more weight transfer to the front.
Give those a try and also check the setups on PetitRC website, they have a lot of asphalt setups that might work for you.
Also Arts quick guide in this forum is a pretty good reference if your just looking for quick adjustments and what they do.
Hopes something here helps you out, keep us posted.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:54 PM   #3986
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Yes, asphalt. Track has fairly good grip, smooth, and BIG. Tire is Solaris hard spec, lg2 prep 1.5-2 on camber. Went to the short links a few weeks ago to help with traction roll, and have kinda stuck with it. But have a feeling it may be my weak point.
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Old 08-12-2012, 03:58 AM   #3987
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I have my state titles coming in 2 weeks and having the luxury of new tyres to practice with today my car was the best it has ever felt. I wish i had money for new tyres all the time
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Old 08-12-2012, 04:26 AM   #3988
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Been there, done that shortly after the V2 was released, you'll like it.

The setscrew mod for the V1 (2Pce mount) works well, if you require more flex you can also cut one leg of the top deck, the side opposite the motor.

For the steering interference issue with the lipo tape holder you can eyeball the angle of the arm and grind about 1mm of the plastic off to give you the clearance you need for full lock. I think there may even be pics of that in here further back.
Well, I tried the car out with the V2 mount / V1 centre piece last night, and only using the front most (the central one) to mount to the top deck... and honestly, I didn't like it. Car felt very loose all night, especially mid-to-exit.
Admittedly I had a few issues with my radio at the start of the night (new steering servo), but once I'd dialled those out, the car still wasn't inspiring huge confidence, like the previous weekends, and didn't feel overly locked into the track.

I struggled thoughout the night, making various other changes in an attempt to sort it out, including shocks up and down on the towers, inner camber links, droop and so on. For the last final, I'd pretty much come full circle and was back on the setup I started the night on, with the exception of Ride Blue springs. I managed then to set my best times of the night (going 4/10ths faster on fastest than the first final!), even so, the skating feeling remained, so I stayed on to have another run after the final, and quickly switch back to the standard V2 motor mount setup. Straight away, car was way better, could drive it hard with confidence into and out of the corners, and certainly felt much better tied in.

I have a suspicion that the increased rear flex is too much (I've had similar on other cars before), with the car flexing to the point where it can't resist anymore when heavily loaded, which causes the car to loose all grip. It's possible that with a stiffer bottom/top deck, that motor mount setup would be good, but with the standard TE parts, I'll be sticking with the standard one-piece setup for now.

Only thing lacking now was a bit of high speed steering, but I'm pretty sure I can find that with moving the shell forward a bit.

Still, very happy with the car, good response to changes, and when I get the settings right, it's a joy to drive... Pretty sure I can get onto 16lap pace once I've got the car sorted, and stop driving like a numpty!

Cheers
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Old 08-12-2012, 02:14 PM   #3989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Well, I tried the car out with the V2 mount / V1 centre piece last night, and only using the front most (the central one) to mount to the top deck... and honestly, I didn't like it. Car felt very loose all night, especially mid-to-exit.
Admittedly I had a few issues with my radio at the start of the night (new steering servo), but once I'd dialled those out, the car still wasn't inspiring huge confidence, like the previous weekends, and didn't feel overly locked into the track.

I struggled thoughout the night, making various other changes in an attempt to sort it out, including shocks up and down on the towers, inner camber links, droop and so on. For the last final, I'd pretty much come full circle and was back on the setup I started the night on, with the exception of Ride Blue springs. I managed then to set my best times of the night (going 4/10ths faster on fastest than the first final!), even so, the skating feeling remained, so I stayed on to have another run after the final, and quickly switch back to the standard V2 motor mount setup. Straight away, car was way better, could drive it hard with confidence into and out of the corners, and certainly felt much better tied in.

I have a suspicion that the increased rear flex is too much (I've had similar on other cars before), with the car flexing to the point where it can't resist anymore when heavily loaded, which causes the car to loose all grip. It's possible that with a stiffer bottom/top deck, that motor mount setup would be good, but with the standard TE parts, I'll be sticking with the standard one-piece setup for now.

Only thing lacking now was a bit of high speed steering, but I'm pretty sure I can find that with moving the shell forward a bit.

Still, very happy with the car, good response to changes, and when I get the settings right, it's a joy to drive... Pretty sure I can get onto 16lap pace once I've got the car sorted, and stop driving like a numpty!

Cheers
Ed
My car is really loose on-power with the V1 motormount. Very loose with standard screw, pretty loose with a set screw. Itīs good without the screw but then I strip spur gears. Guess I have to order the V2 mount. I like the car otherwise...
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Old 08-13-2012, 01:28 AM   #3990
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My car is really loose on-power with the V1 motormount. Very loose with standard screw, pretty loose with a set screw. Itīs good without the screw but then I strip spur gears. Guess I have to order the V2 mount. I like the car otherwise...
Hi.

Yesterday it was the tires and the heat - not the car. Solaris on especially the Glostrup track, which has a low to middle grip, in warm and sunny weather is a bad choice. Morten and Rasmus drove after the race yesterday two batteries extra with exactly the same set up - just on either Sorex 36 with red inserts (WC tires) and Ride 32. The cars were totally different. They were planted on the track and they could drive different lines, and they could push the car in and out of the corners. Especially the Ride 32 worked extremely well. The lap times were about 0,5 to 1,0 second better per lap than with the Solaris tires, but the best was the feeling of the car. By the way - the motor temperature got nearly 20 degr C higher - a very good indicate, that the grip was far better. And just for notice - then the Serpent was better than the Awesomatix.
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