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Old 06-28-2012, 04:55 PM   #3811
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If you still have that on power push problem you could try taking out some spacer on the front inner upper link, say from 3mm to 2mm or try adding 1mm to the upper outer. Also I see you went for a wider front spacing on the lowers, maybe try going the other way and reduce the front width via the bridges as I see that hex spacing has to be out a bit for wheel clearance.
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Old 06-28-2012, 04:59 PM   #3812
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Originally Posted by gearhead_22 View Post
I am running 4mm shims on the outter rear hub and 3mm on the inner car hamdles beautiful, my problem is I only have about 2mm of thread to screw in to the rear hub and my rear just tap the wall and it strips out, is there a longer pivot ball available for this?
I have not found a Serpent pivot ball with a longer shank. I changed out my outer pivot for a xray link and ball that allows you to use a screw so you can get more thread into the meat of the rear upright.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:09 PM   #3813
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Originally Posted by gearhead_22 View Post
I am running 4mm shims on the outter rear hub and 3mm on the inner car hamdles beautiful, my problem is I only have about 2mm of thread to screw in to the rear hub and my rear just tap the wall and it strips out, is there a longer pivot ball available for this?
Serpent Factory and working to fix this problem as we speak, they will be bringing out a ball stud that is 2-3mm longer.

With the bladders, the easiest way to build the shocks for me was to insert the bladder and screw the top on even with no oil. This beds the bladder into the shock top, then unscrew it and fill it with oil and screw it back on. If you put the bladder on top of the body then try and screw the top on - it's a nightmare.

I found the best feeling shock was when I drilled 1mm hole in the shock top. For some reason on our shocks you still get rebound - even with the hole. But you don't have to bleed as much oil out to get the desired rebound, hence better feeling and longer lasting shocks.

Hope this helps a bit, if anyone has any questions I'd be more than happy to help!

Ryan.
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Old 06-28-2012, 09:21 PM   #3814
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really nice design. small box...but i found myself is rather headache with assembling...
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:41 AM   #3815
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Originally Posted by Ryan Maker View Post
Serpent Factory and working to fix this problem as we speak, they will be bringing out a ball stud that is 2-3mm longer.

With the bladders, the easiest way to build the shocks for me was to insert the bladder and screw the top on even with no oil. This beds the bladder into the shock top, then unscrew it and fill it with oil and screw it back on. If you put the bladder on top of the body then try and screw the top on - it's a nightmare.

I found the best feeling shock was when I drilled 1mm hole in the shock top. For some reason on our shocks you still get rebound - even with the hole. But you don't have to bleed as much oil out to get the desired rebound, hence better feeling and longer lasting shocks.

Hope this helps a bit, if anyone has any questions I'd be more than happy to help!

Ryan.
mine are fine at a little less than 25% rebound. but it takes a while to get there. its not with in 2 secs and its there. i also did the same. pre assemble and screw down the tops. but left the bleed hole alone. i just took my time screwing the top down.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:37 AM   #3816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
If you still have that on power push problem you could try taking out some spacer on the front inner upper link, say from 3mm to 2mm or try adding 1mm to the upper outer. Also I see you went for a wider front spacing on the lowers, maybe try going the other way and reduce the front width via the bridges as I see that hex spacing has to be out a bit for wheel clearance.
With buying a new house, my track time has been limited and have not been able to get to the track for testing. I added a 1mm spacer onto the front outer link on Wednesday, and the push was just about gone (it wasn't really noticable before, but I was braking in 2 spots to settle the car, and I can brake a smidge less now). The qualifiers were good, but I traction rolled twice in the main, both times in places I have not experienced any issues (push or grip). They were in the corners by the open doors though, and the temperature/humidty changes are more dramatic in those corners as well.

My next task is to work on freeing up the driveline some more, cleaning bearings, etc and make sure everything rolls as well as possible. Picked up a new battery, and still at a loss on what do to about motors (long story from the VTA threads), but I am about 0.5 a second off the top pace, and only about 0.1 from our local top drivers. From others who have changed, the battery should be a good 1-2 tenths (over my old puffed Gens Ace), and the motor can be a good 4-5 tenths, though that is a harder nut to crack.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:58 AM   #3817
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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
With buying a new house, my track time has been limited and have not been able to get to the track for testing. I added a 1mm spacer onto the front outer link on Wednesday, and the push was just about gone (it wasn't really noticable before, but I was braking in 2 spots to settle the car, and I can brake a smidge less now). The qualifiers were good, but I traction rolled twice in the main, both times in places I have not experienced any issues (push or grip). They were in the corners by the open doors though, and the temperature/humidty changes are more dramatic in those corners as well.

My next task is to work on freeing up the driveline some more, cleaning bearings, etc and make sure everything rolls as well as possible. Picked up a new battery, and still at a loss on what do to about motors (long story from the VTA threads), but I am about 0.5 a second off the top pace, and only about 0.1 from our local top drivers. From others who have changed, the battery should be a good 1-2 tenths (over my old puffed Gens Ace), and the motor can be a good 4-5 tenths, though that is a harder nut to crack.
You mean VTA isn't about fun and running old cars where everyone is equal?
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:18 AM   #3818
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You mean VTA isn't about fun and running old cars where everyone is equal?
LOL no derails here. The car is capable, the driver is sure working on it, the electronics are still in question. We lost another Novak motor on Wednesday night too.
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:20 AM   #3819
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Someone tried the 2mm chassis on asphalt ?
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:26 AM   #3820
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Someone tried the 2mm chassis on asphalt ?
The 2mm chassis and flex topdeck is my combo of choice outdoors.
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:24 PM   #3821
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Someone tried the 2mm chassis on asphalt ?
Mispost
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:32 PM   #3822
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I took a look at my car.. for those of you that are interested... this is for a very high traction track. My next setting change was to be bars and diff oil. The car is VERY balanced and reactive. Not too edgy or hard to drive. This was for Blinky 17.5

I did not have chance to try the setup with yellow/yellow, or gray/gray yet.

Standard TE Chassis topdeck and plastics.

Front
1.5 Camber
0.5 toe out
1.5 FF Block
1.0 FR Block
No Shim outer camber link -4mm inside in the innner hole
450 Exceed Oil 3 hole piston Black Spring
Hole #3 on the tower - outer on the arm
2mm front, 2mm rear spacers - wheelbase
1mm rollcenter shim
5mm ride height
1mm droop over ride height
1.4 Bar

Rear
1.5 Camber
0 RF Block
3.0 RR Block
2mm shim outer camber link -3mm inside in the innner hole
400 Exceed Oil 3 hole piston Black Spring
Hole #5 on the tower - outer on the arm
4mm front, 2mm rear spacers - wheelbase
.5mm rollcenter shims
5.5mm ride height
2mm droop over ride height
1.4 Bar

Solaris Tires/Speed 6 Body
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Last edited by TimPotter; 06-29-2012 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:58 PM   #3823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
LOL no derails here. The car is capable, the driver is sure working on it, the electronics are still in question. We lost another Novak motor on Wednesday night too.

Can you e-mail me the details on the blown motor. Thanks

lanzg@sasktel.net
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:33 PM   #3824
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Can you e-mail me the details on the blown motor. Thanks

lanzg@sasktel.net
Email sent. It belongs to the GM of the hobby shop so assume he will send it back to novak.
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:14 AM   #3825
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well was a practice day today for us here. so while it was possible, i was able to get some one to capture some footage of my S411 today. this also was on 9 run old RIDE 36 Tyres. fresher tyres later in the day and the car was even better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYE0y...ature=youtu.be

this is also using both O rings on the RCM shocks, Orange front springs and White Rears. 450CST oil in front 3 hole pistons, and 4 hole 400 cst rear.
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