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Old 06-27-2012, 02:39 PM   #3796
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Does anyone have a spare 0* block? I'll gladly buy it....
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:43 PM   #3797
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Default VTA ?

any one using this chassie in the USVTA SERIES
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:59 PM   #3798
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Pete... Get rid of that TC6 and get a S411... you will not regret it. We'll get you HOOKED UP !.



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any one using this chassie in the USVTA SERIES
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:00 PM   #3799
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Ed.... You will enjoy this car... it was a pleasant change when I went from the Tamiya to the 411.
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:33 PM   #3800
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Ed.... You will enjoy this car... it was a pleasant change when I went from the Tamiya to the 411.
What change did you find from switching from the tamiya to the snake?
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:34 PM   #3801
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Pete... Get rid of that TC6 and get a S411... you will not regret it. We'll get you HOOKED UP !.
Tim talked to Doug today its in the works lol
I couldn't go without any orange in my pits
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:47 PM   #3802
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...in the process of getting mine all set up with electronics, can't wait to get it out on it's first run . Very nice car thus far, probably the the most trick chassis I've owned to date. Nothing but Xray and TC6 cars where I race, it will be one of the more rare cars out there!
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Old 06-27-2012, 10:13 PM   #3803
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The setup window is bigger on the S411, and durability is much better. I think the quality of the overall kit is better as well.

This car REALLY is a sleeper.

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What change did you find from switching from the tamiya to the snake?
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:08 AM   #3804
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Now it wasnt all positive... my worst part of the build was the shocks. I seriously struggled to get them all to build the same (even to get two too match!) in terms of rebound. I ended up switching out the bladders for some black tamiya ones, as the clear ones seemed to be a bit variable, some collapsing sooner than others, and affecting the damping rate. Even with the different bladders, still struggled to get them to match up, and I think that this is coming from the double o-rings in the bottom. Hopefully these will break in a bit after the first run, but if I still struggle... Well, that's in the future, want to give them a chance first. If anyone's got any tips or special code for building them though, happy to listen!
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Hi TryHard.

I've no problems with the O-rings. When I put it together, I used some blue Tamiya grease, and I've no binding at all, and all 4 shocks are even on rebound.

I struggled a little too on the bladders. I think, they are too wide, and the top can't go free above them, when you're putting it together. I had to do two of the shocks twice, as I lifted up the bladder and got air into the shocks, when I tried to put the top on.

The new shocks works really good. I've no leak from the shocks.

I don't want or need to switch to Tamiya shocks.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:38 AM   #3805
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Originally Posted by rcpaintinpete View Post
any one using this chassie in the USVTA SERIES
Yessir.

Club Race last night, TQ after the first heat, bettered TQ pace after the second, and won the A. Since everyone in the VTA thread says I suck at driving, it must be the car.
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:15 AM   #3806
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Good Man Pete..

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpaintinpete View Post
Tim talked to Doug today its in the works lol
I couldn't go without any orange in my pits
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:32 AM   #3807
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Default camber link ballend

I am running 4mm shims on the outter rear hub and 3mm on the inner car hamdles beautiful, my problem is I only have about 2mm of thread to screw in to the rear hub and my rear just tap the wall and it strips out, is there a longer pivot ball available for this?
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:04 AM   #3808
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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
Yessir.

Club Race last night, TQ after the first heat, bettered TQ pace after the second, and won the A. Since everyone in the VTA thread says I suck at driving, it must be the car.

LMAO
just what i needed to hear whats the setup like springs/blocks etc etc
just dont want to get a bunch of stuff i dont need
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:04 AM   #3809
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Originally Posted by BCDK View Post
Hi TryHard.

I've no problems with the O-rings. When I put it together, I used some blue Tamiya grease, and I've no binding at all, and all 4 shocks are even on rebound.

I struggled a little too on the bladders. I think, they are too wide, and the top can't go free above them, when you're putting it together. I had to do two of the shocks twice, as I lifted up the bladder and got air into the shocks, when I tried to put the top on.

The new shocks works really good. I've no leak from the shocks.

I don't want or need to switch to Tamiya shocks.
Same here on the bladders. I had to put the bladders in the cap first and make sure they were seated and then screw on the shock body. If I put the bladder on the shock body first and then tried to put the cap on it would distort the bladder.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:46 PM   #3810
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LMAO
just what i needed to hear whats the setup like springs/blocks etc etc
just dont want to get a bunch of stuff i dont need
Our track is fairly tight, so the DJC axles were pretty much a must have for me. On my Sakura, changing from regular axles to the ArrowMax Tamiya ECS type axles shaved 1-2 tenths, so running the equivalent on the 411 was a no-brainer for me. Not a necessity, but it will smooth out the on-power sweepers and the twisties.

Definitely get some spring options. The Serpent and Xray springs are excellent, or you can also get the HPI or RSD sets which are a bit more economical. Use whatever everyone else is using, as it will help you with setups. Most of my track runs Xray, so having an Xray spring set helps me find adjustments as they make changes.

I am a fan of sway bar options, but 1.2-1.6 front and rear should cover you. I have the 1.8's but never used. Front and rear bars are different.

For other upgrades, I recommend the Exotek front bumper support coupled with the Xray hard bumper. You will have to be pretty amazing to break a front end part with that combo. If you are ordering from Exotek, get the steering support bar, as it is cheap and helps take some of the slop out of the steering. I have the V2 steering for adjustability, but it is not totally necessary. The V2 motor mount is just a bonus, but you can set up additional chassi flex in other ways. I am running the 2.25 stock LE chassis and the stock top deck. I have the hard plastics on the car right now and prefer how they feel (the car drives like it is in a grove...hooks up very nicely). You will also need a servo saver (the horn that comes with the car is not the way to go). Pick up a decent one (Xray Stiff, or Tamiya). The Robinson's are not as durable, and any other brands (3Racing, etc) all have been terrible from what I have seen. You need a servo saver though, not just a horn, otherwise you will start breaking more expensive parts.

For gearing, I have a 94 spur, 49 pinion. 92-96 spur will allow you to gear pretty much anything VTA requires. Running stock diffs, front spool, 1k oil in the rear. 32.5 weight oil in the shocks, currently with Xray 2.6's in the front, 2.2's in the back (I can give you a serpent or otherwise equivalent when I get home if you need). The rest is fairly stock, 1.5* front camber, 2* rear. 0* front toe, 3.0* rear toe block. 5.5mm ride height all around.

You will need to add weight. I have 2 each of the center weight kits 2x 20g, 2x12g in the center, 10g weight in the right rear, 5000mah pack (for weight), shoe-goo and drywall tape reinforced Mustang body w/ driver figure, and I come in at 1562g. Car balances near perfectly on the 3Racing balancing jig. In order to run the Boss Mustang, I did have to swap to Xray front body posts though, as the stock are too short. Just something to keep in mind.

This has got a little long, but feel free to ask anything. Car has been great the past 3 weeks. It has an ever so slight on power push, but when I try to dial it out, I put too much heat into the rear tires and run into traction issues before the 8 min mark. As it is, the car is rock solid traction from start to finish.
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