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Old 06-13-2012, 10:35 PM   #3706
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
ok, just making sure there is no strong advantage from one vs another.

No advantage, just your budget will dictate which you choose and what parameters you're after. Hobbywing is a good choice and will cover all classes from Binky to Mod.

Cheers Ren
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:48 PM   #3707
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I need a body, which one?
What speed and torque shall my servo be?
Is there a max weight for lipo?
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:17 AM   #3708
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I need a body, which one?
What speed and torque shall my servo be?
Is there a max weight for lipo?
Body will depend on track and handling you wish to achieve. PROTOFORM Speed6 of variants, LTC or varients, BITTY Sticker, BLITZ XFR etc etc .

Servo low profile high torque type such as FUTABA 9551, SAVOX 1251 or similar metal gear ball raced variant.

LiPo weight will vary depending on brand but average will be 300 grams.

Cheers Ren
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:35 AM   #3709
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Originally Posted by venom54 View Post
Body will depend on track and handling you wish to achieve. PROTOFORM Speed6 of variants, LTC or varients, BITTY Sticker, BLITZ XFR etc etc .

Servo low profile high torque type such as FUTABA 9551, SAVOX 1251 or similar metal gear ball raced variant.

LiPo weight will vary depending on brand but average will be 300 grams.

Cheers Ren
Is it mandate to be low profile?
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:02 AM   #3710
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Is it mandate to be low profile?
No but fits better with all the rest of your electrics and in performance some of the servos on the market which offer better torque and speed are the low profile versions.

Cheers Ren

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Old 06-14-2012, 05:15 AM   #3711
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Pre trimmed ?

Are you thinking we run foams ? Electric TC racing is a 99% rubber tire affair anymore.

The suggestions for body's are spot on. I like to start with a speed 6, and go from there. It is a great all around body, but check out what the locals are running, it is a good indication of what works at the specific track.


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what's the deal on the tires? are the pre-trimmed? how is the wear and cost?
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Old 06-14-2012, 07:14 AM   #3712
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
A few questions.

1) what are all of the v2 upgrades?
2) are these ball diffs? I'm assuming yes
3) is there a certain weight lipo I need to use. I have nano tech 5600 packs.
1) 1 piece motor mount, steering rack with adjustable ackerman, new shocks
2) gear diffs, and many run a spool up front (solid axle)
3) negative. use what you have

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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
thanks!

which esc are you guys using for 17.5 spec?
LRP SXX V2 TC Spec is my ESC of choice. The stock spec is also good. Tekin RS/RSPro are also very popular. In blinky, most anything will work, but the advantage of those 2 is that you will have more setup help from others at the track with those, and they will work if you move on to other TC racing (mod, etc).

Quote:
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
I need a body, which one?
What speed and torque shall my servo be?
Is there a max weight for lipo?
See what others are running for bodies, as they tend to be somewhat track dependent. Same goes for wing mounting positions.

Faster servos are better. You will want to be faster then .10, torque of 100 oz/in+. Low profile gives more room for mounting electronics but is not necessary. Savox 1251 or 1258, Futaba BLS551, KO 2413, all good options. Savox draws higher amperage so use a capacitor to prevent brown outs. Does not happen to all people, but it is cheap insurance.

No lipo weight restrictions, though the class usually has a minimum total car weight.
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:17 AM   #3713
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Originally Posted by TimPotter View Post
Pre trimmed ?

Are you thinking we run foams ? Electric TC racing is a 99% rubber tire affair anymore.

The suggestions for body's are spot on. I like to start with a speed 6, and go from there. It is a great all around body, but check out what the locals are running, it is a good indication of what works at the specific track.
I found out what the local track is using in regards to tires. Thanks. I didn't know before asking the question. I will ping a few key guys in regards to bodies. You can learn a lot when you know so little
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:22 AM   #3714
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Thanks for all of your answers!

I actually purchased one of the s411 from the guy who posted 2 of them for sale on this thread. He has a carpet setup, so I'll need to get an outdoor low tracktion setup from someone.

I'll go ahead and get a low profile.

I'm trying to pick up a stock spec from this one guy. He has the USB to come with it which is cool. I have two lrp in my 1/10 offload. A tc and comp spec. It'll be cool to keep it in the family!

From what I've found In off road, you need a cap if using spectrum receivers with high current servos. Once I went to airtronics, problem solved.

Do 17.5 require a heatsink on motor?

Thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
1) 1 piece motor mount, steering rack with adjustable ackerman, new shocks
2) gear diffs, and many run a spool up front (solid axle)
3) negative. use what you have



LRP SXX V2 TC Spec is my ESC of choice. The stock spec is also good. Tekin RS/RSPro are also very popular. In blinky, most anything will work, but the advantage of those 2 is that you will have more setup help from others at the track with those, and they will work if you move on to other TC racing (mod, etc).



See what others are running for bodies, as they tend to be somewhat track dependent. Same goes for wing mounting positions.

Faster servos are better. You will want to be faster then .10, torque of 100 oz/in+. Low profile gives more room for mounting electronics but is not necessary. Savox 1251 or 1258, Futaba BLS551, KO 2413, all good options. Savox draws higher amperage so use a capacitor to prevent brown outs. Does not happen to all people, but it is cheap insurance.

No lipo weight restrictions, though the class usually has a minimum total car weight.
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:35 AM   #3715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
Thanks for all of your answers!

I actually purchased one of the s411 from the guy who posted 2 of them for sale on this thread. He has a carpet setup, so I'll need to get an outdoor low tracktion setup from someone.

I'll go ahead and get a low profile.

I'm trying to pick up a stock spec from this one guy. He has the USB to come with it which is cool. I have two lrp in my 1/10 offload. A tc and comp spec. It'll be cool to keep it in the family!

From what I've found In off road, you need a cap if using spectrum receivers with high current servos. Once I went to airtronics, problem solved.

Do 17.5 require a heatsink on motor?

Thx
Welcome to the Serpent family.

The Serpent website has team driver setups including many outdoor asphalt ones.

I am an LRP guy myself and have been very happy. I have a V1 comp, 2x V2 stock specs, 1 V2 TC spec, and an IX8.

Spektrum and Savox both seem to be more prone to the brownout issues. Something about the amount of Amp draw at full lock. They tend to be less expensive for similar ratings though. I run the KO's in both my Serpents and love them.

No requirement for a heatsink, but running a fan is something I would recommend. You can sticky tape one behind the motor (next to the layshaft) pointing at the motor. Super easy. I am doing that currently with a 30mm fan on my VTA car. My TC, I got a snazy mount someone made that holds a 25mm fan up above the motor on an angle. It lets you get to the layshaft screws which is nice. A cooler running motor performs better and lasts longer, so there is rarely a reason not to do some type of active or passive cooling.
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:43 AM   #3716
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I am an LRP guy myself and have been very happy. I have a V2 TC spec
I would like to see proof of this? I don't believe you actually have one.

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You can sticky tape one behind the motor (next to the layshaft) pointing at the motor.
The fan should run parallel with the motor and pull heat away from the motor not blow air to the motor.
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:50 AM   #3717
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I would like to see proof of this? I don't believe you actually have one.
True...I want it back!


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The fan should run parallel with the motor and pull heat away from the motor not blow air to the motor.
Don't listen to him, my car came off at 135 last night, his came off at 180.

Not being an expert in heat material transfer dynamics, I have no idea, but my car runs cooler blowing air over the motor. For me, I think it is due to the fan's seeming to have more airflow on the push side then the pull side.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:00 AM   #3718
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True...I want it back!
I don't know what you are talking about.


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Don't listen to him, my car came off at 135 last night, his came off at 180.

Not being an expert in heat material transfer dynamics, I have no idea, but my car runs cooler blowing air over the motor. For me, I think it is due to the fan's seeming to have more airflow on the push side then the pull side.
Then consider putting the fan on the other side of the motor. Then you have the force of the motor and forward movement of the car taking the heat out the back of the car. Don't create a fight of air movement within the car. Its these stupid little things that make the difference between 2nd and 4th place Oh and that 2nd place might just come in 1st without the 4th place changing the laws of physics.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:06 AM   #3719
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I don't know what you are talking about.
Just remember, you have a lot more nicer stuff then I do and you leave it at the track more often.


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Then consider putting the fan on the other side of the motor. Then you have the force of the motor and forward movement of the car taking the heat out the back of the car. Don't create a fight of air movement within the car. Its these stupid little things that make the difference between 2nd and 4th place
No, those stupid little things make the difference between 2nd place by 2 seconds and 2nd place by 4 seconds. The stupid big things are being taken out by an Xray driven by an ADD rc car douche (twice!) and are the difference between 2nd and 4th.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:08 AM   #3720
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Then consider putting the fan on the other side of the motor. Then you have the force of the motor and forward movement of the car taking the heat out the back of the car. Don't create a fight of air movement within the car. Its these stupid little things that make the difference between 2nd and 4th place Oh and that 2nd place might just come in 1st without the 4th place changing the laws of physics.
Edit your post all you want with additional digs. There was a better chance of you showing up to work before 10am today (or any day) then you catching, much less beating Myron. Just remember HCRCR and a 14 year old showing you whats up and preventing you bumping to the A...
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