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Old 06-11-2012, 09:57 AM   #3676
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Default S411's F/S

Just wanted to give you guys on the thread a heads up. I have two S411's for sale, haven't posted them yet. Both have most V2/TE options, tons of spares, mint condition. Priced right, PM me if you're interested before they go on buy/sell.

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Old 06-11-2012, 03:31 PM   #3677
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Default Geardiff V2 testing

Got the chance to run the new V2 diff on the weekend. When I first opened the bag to the diff I really couldn't tell the difference between the V1 and V2 diffs, so I started with the obvious, see if the 3.5 shaft is aluminum....and yes it is. Just so happens I still have a bagged V1 diff, wait a second this one is aluminum too........guess its not that obvious.

So I started to compare the gears, now I'm starting to see some variances. The V1 spider gears backing flange is a larger diameter than the V2, easily visible when side by side. Also the big gears that attach to the out drives are silver in colour with the V2, the V1 gears where black.

I really can't tell if the pitch is the same between the gears, but the V2 gears felt like the sharp edge was taken down, almost beveled.

The outer case seems to be the same, although the V2 has 4 mold dimples on the outer face of the case.

The V2 assembles the same as the V1, uses the same seals, shims and outdrives. No leaks and feels solid.

Once in the car, I built this one with 1k oil, you can feel by turning the wheels by hand that this diff feels much smoother, that little notchy feel of the V1 is gone. I have a V1 that I spent a lot of time on breaking it in with valve lapping compound and a drill press, and it still doesn't feel quite as smooth as the out of the bag V2 does.

On track, the car felt quite a bit more consistent and considerably smoother to drive.

I'd have to give this one 2 thumbs up on the need to get list.

(I'm still waiting to get the Diff Gearset revision set V2 to see if its a replacement for the V1 so I can use the original cases. Although it looks like a straight drop in right now)
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:51 PM   #3678
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Default S411 Exotech chassis

Over the last couple of weeks I've been running the Exotech S411 replacement chassis. The more I run this piece, the more I feel that it falls quite nicely in between the 2.0 and the 2.25 stock chassis. The combo I ended up with (for carpet) was the Exo chassis, steering brace, and hard suspension parts. This made for a real consistent car that sometimes almost felt too easy to drive, which in my case makes me overdrive the car or start to try other lines, both really killing the consistency.

I prepped the chassis with the recommended blue locktite seal, and took the edge off the tape groves. (Probably my only peeve about this chassis not using the stock tape holders.) This to me makes more sense to use the stock pieces especially if running on asphalt so no tape is exposed to the pavement.

On track I ran 8 runs of six minute durations and the difference of all 8 runs top 20 laps varied by .07 seconds. So I either hit a wall or the car ran really well.

This one requires a bit of upper deck tuning to get the most out of it, but once found seems like a formidable weapon.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:58 PM   #3679
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Default S411 upper deck 1.75mm

All I can say if you're running mid to high traction carpet, this thing is worth looking at. Taking my best tweaked stock upper deck and replacing it with this piece was like WOW, thats the feel for the car I've been looking for.

Just a word of warning, when you put this top plate on, do it with the wheels off and on a flat surface, and then do the opposite screw tighten method. I would also be prone to backing the top screws off after your race session, just to keep any potential tweak away from it between race days.
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:43 PM   #3680
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I like the v2 diffs also but wish the x-rings wouldn't bind the out drives as much.
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:53 PM   #3681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I prepped the chassis with the recommended blue locktite seal, and took the edge off the tape groves. (Probably my only peeve about this chassis not using the stock tape holders.) This to me makes more sense to use the stock pieces especially if running on asphalt so no tape is exposed to the pavement.
I ran without the battery braces all day yesterday on a bumpy parking lot track.... did not lose the battery once (looped tape under chassis)!

I also ran my servo with just the inner mount and servo tape..... a few decent hits, and I did not need to reset the steering at all.

Removing the 2 battery braces and the servo tray shaved about 12g from the car..... SO if you are weight-obsessive this is something to think about.

I haven't tested a v2 diff out myself, but I know exactly what you mean regarding the notchy feel of the v1. I've tried about every oil from 400 to 2000, and I always barely noticed it.....

Johnny... have you tested the 1.75 upper deck on asphalt? I'm still running the stock 2.5 from the original kit, except cut up. I also ran the "setscrew" mod along with only 2 front screws and 4 rear (with countersunk washers). It felt consistent, but if I could run the 1.75 with ALL screws while getting the same performance it would help resist any chance of tweak I'd imagine.
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:07 PM   #3682
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What's everyone using for a servo saver? I've got a Kimbrough mid-size right now, but it's not quite long enough to get full steering throw.
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:08 PM   #3683
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Johnny... have you tested the 1.75 upper deck on asphalt? I'm still running the stock 2.5 from the original kit, except cut up. I also ran the "setscrew" mod along with only 2 front screws and 4 rear (with countersunk washers). It felt consistent, but if I could run the 1.75 with ALL screws while getting the same performance it would help resist any chance of tweak I'd imagine.
Sorry I have nothing on asphalt to go on. I think the stock top deck is 2.0mm, (last count on stock top deck options we have 2.5,2.0,2.0 flexi and 1.75.Not sure what the very first cars that came with the 2.5 chassis came with for top deck, 2.0?)

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What's everyone using for a servo saver? I've got a Kimbrough mid-size right now, but it's not quite long enough to get full steering throw.
Thats the exact servo saver I'm using. If your really careful you can put a hole just above the center hole to raise it up a touch which will help in throw. I've run mine like this for about 2 months now without any failure, just take your time putting that hole in there, its close to the edge.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:21 PM   #3684
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With all of the steering this car apparently has, from what I have read and heard, I was pondering the idea of getting one for Vta... anyone here run it in that class, or have any input? I know the bias will be towards this car in general but I'm hoping to get some real-world input.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:02 AM   #3685
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Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
What's everyone using for a servo saver? I've got a Kimbrough mid-size right now, but it's not quite long enough to get full steering throw.
I run the Xray stiff servo saver. A little pricey, but works amazing.

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With all of the steering this car apparently has, from what I have read and heard, I was pondering the idea of getting one for Vta... anyone here run it in that class, or have any input? I know the bias will be towards this car in general but I'm hoping to get some real-world input.
I run a Serpent in VTA and am very pleased with it. It has taken a bit more tweaking, and am still working on dialing in the setup on our track (the track conditions are very inconsistent, which leads to a lot of chasing setups), but it does quite well for me. It is indoor carpet, running mostly stock bits right now with RSD springs. Running the car flexy and soft. I have the hard arms on the TC and will probably do the same on the VTA as in general it feels more planted and consistent. The drivetrain takes a little bit to free up, but is worth it with the 25.5 power plant.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:14 AM   #3686
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Thanks, I can see from your sig now that you have Vta experience with the car.

If I pick one up I may hit you up for a few set-up tips with this car, to get me started. The thing with vta is it's always a lot more push than with TC tires, been looking for a car that will really turn. Rear traction is never an issue of course using the wide rear tires. Either way it's a really nice looking car and I want something a little different from what everyone else runs locally (Xray/TC6).
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:52 AM   #3687
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
Thanks, I can see from your sig now that you have Vta experience with the car.

If I pick one up I may hit you up for a few set-up tips with this car, to get me started. The thing with vta is it's always a lot more push than with TC tires, been looking for a car that will really turn. Rear traction is never an issue of course using the wide rear tires. Either way it's a really nice looking car and I want something a little different from what everyone else runs locally (Xray/TC6).
We have the full range of cars out here, but with good representation from Xray and 3Racing. There are only a couple Serpents right now. Interestingly enough, rear traction is one of the things we do fight here. With the strong steering of the car, it is easier to overwork the rear tires causing them to heat up and begin to pick up the trash on the carpet. It is an issue for almost every chassis, and is just a challenge on our track. I find when the Xray's are running perfect, I am about 90%, when they are running bad, I am almost perfect. Our conditions can and do change over the course of an evening, and between the first qualifier and the main, things are rarely the same.

The plus side is the car has a lot of adjustability, and that adjustability yields instant and noticable results. It makes tuning and understaning tuning very nice.

One VTA issue I did have recently (last week). I painted up a pair of bodies, a 70 Boss Mustang and 68 Camaro. The mustang sits much higher, and the front body posts are too short. I got a set of Xray front posts and they work perfect. Sakura Zero ones should also work. The camaro is fine with stock, or longer.

You will also need to add weight. Running a 5000mah pack (for weight), and I have 2 of the weight kits. Using 2x 20g and 2x 12g weights on the center line, and 1x 5g on the right rear. With everything, I am looking at about 1546g right now, so will need to add another 5g weight to be legal. Body and battery will have impacts on this, but you will need to add weight, and a fair bit of it.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:59 AM   #3688
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We have the full range of cars out here, but with good representation from Xray and 3Racing. There are only a couple Serpents right now. Interestingly enough, rear traction is one of the things we do fight here. With the strong steering of the car, it is easier to overwork the rear tires causing them to heat up and begin to pick up the trash on the carpet. It is an issue for almost every chassis, and is just a challenge on our track. I find when the Xray's are running perfect, I am about 90%, when they are running bad, I am almost perfect. Our conditions can and do change over the course of an evening, and between the first qualifier and the main, things are rarely the same.

The plus side is the car has a lot of adjustability, and that adjustability yields instant and noticable results. It makes tuning and understaning tuning very nice.

One VTA issue I did have recently (last week). I painted up a pair of bodies, a 70 Boss Mustang and 68 Camaro. The mustang sits much higher, and the front body posts are too short. I got a set of Xray front posts and they work perfect. Sakura Zero ones should also work. The camaro is fine with stock, or longer.

You will also need to add weight. Running a 5000mah pack (for weight), and I have 2 of the weight kits. Using 2x 20g and 2x 12g weights on the center line, and 1x 5g on the right rear. With everything, I am looking at about 1546g right now, so will need to add another 5g weight to be legal. Body and battery will have impacts on this, but you will need to add weight, and a fair bit of it.
Thanks for the input... I will mostly be running medium grip, somewhat bumpy outdoor asphalt. The traction is never amazing but it's pretty much the same every time. As for weight, our local series specifies 1450g. Will be running a J71 shell.

And I do want a car that will make set-up changes very noticeable. I am a lot more into trying new things then I was in the past, running cars like a XXX-s for instance, I would get it ball park and leave it, the car was pretty much the same regardless of what you did to it (to a point). Learning Roll Center tuning is my current task. Hope to get one on my hands soon, I'll pop back in to the thread when/if I do.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:25 AM   #3689
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looking to get an onroad. i am coming from PURE offroad (all aspecs of offroad). I have serpent 1/8th buggies and truggy. I was thinking of picking up a serpent s411 for 17.5 stock. I am planning on doing some minor racing with it. like every other month or so. Would the s411 be a good candidate? Also, what are the must know (in a summary) that i need to know about this car. all inputs are greatly appreciated!

thx
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:58 AM   #3690
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looking to get an onroad. i am coming from PURE offroad (all aspecs of offroad). I have serpent 1/8th buggies and truggy. I was thinking of picking up a serpent s411 for 17.5 stock. I am planning on doing some minor racing with it. like every other month or so. Would the s411 be a good candidate? Also, what are the must know (in a summary) that i need to know about this car. all inputs are greatly appreciated!

thx
The S411 in my opinion is competitive with the rest of the top tier touring cars. Parts availability varies, but I have had no issues between my LHS and Serpent America down in FL. They have been very helpful to me (I had a mismachined part on my LE which they took care of) and the team drivers on this forum have been very helpful.

There are 3 S411 versions. The original, the LE (limited edition, 300 made, number chassis, tool set, and orange aluminum bits), and the newest TE which has updated shocks, steering rack, and some other small update bits as I recall. The LE is sold out, but you see them for sale used often enough that if you want one, you can get one.

The upgrades I have for mine include springs, sway bars, hinge pin blocks (Tamiya style for different toe settings), DJC (double joint cardan, comparable to Xray ECS) axles, hard plastics (arms, c-hubs, etc available in regular, medium, and hard), v2 steering and the flex top deck. Non Serpent, I run an Xray servo saver, Xray hard front bumper (i hit things), and the Exotek steering bar (helps for me with steering slop) and exotek front bumper plate (safety bit to protect the chassis in a front hard impact). As you can see, most everything is either tuning related or durability, and nothing really is necessary.

My understanding is the 411 is awesome on asphalt, and pretty darn good on carpet. As we get more drivers putting in laps on carpet, I know I have been finding more setups and more advice that has helped me get my car dialed in.

Sorry for the wordy summary, but it's free.
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