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Old 04-13-2012, 05:21 AM   #3421
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What issues are they having with the team edition right now? I am looking to maybe get one too.
I ordered two TE's, one for myself and friend.

I did shave the rear blades a pinch and that wasn't an issue. My friend shimmed the front bearing with a 5x8 Kyosho shim and his issue was resolved.

I understand that Serpent is fixing some kits as they can, but even if you find one, none of this stuff is a big deal, not at all.

This kit is the highest quality in terms of materials and design I've ever built - Xray included in that company.
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Old 04-13-2012, 05:41 AM   #3422
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Does anyone that work at serpent america ever post in this thread for product support?
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Old 04-13-2012, 12:42 PM   #3423
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Does anyone that work at serpent america ever post in this thread for product support?
Is there something specific you want to ask? Have you tried to contact Serpent USA/Desoto racing via e-mail?

I think Paul may have been on here a couple of times though.
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:05 PM   #3424
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I do not believe they frequent the threads, but you can ask a question and one of us can usually get the answer.

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Does anyone that work at serpent america ever post in this thread for product support?
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:48 PM   #3425
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New Diff case back instock now !
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Old 04-13-2012, 03:37 PM   #3426
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Tim did you notice if the V2 gear diff case is a different size that the V1,also are the gears the same size and are they still metal? Thanks
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:33 AM   #3427
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The gears are still metal. as for size I don't know. the TE is my first S411
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:40 AM   #3428
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Does anyone know if the tamiya x-rings work on the serpent shocks. Some of my rings aren't cut cleanly and bind the shock shafts.
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:27 AM   #3429
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Johnny, I'll compare them today... I do believe the gears arwe a little smaller... not by side by side comparison, but when I started building it, I thought to myself, " man these gears look small"

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Tim did you notice if the V2 gear diff case is a different size that the V1,also are the gears the same size and are they still metal? Thanks
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:59 AM   #3430
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I was able to buy one of Martin Crisp's Serpent 411 (std),due to him upgrading to the TE, and I'm very pleased with the car!

I'm running it in a mod class (4.5 or 6.5), and have made my share of mistakes, but this car has taken some big impacts (including a few that ended up in the pits), so far nothing broken! I've run it for the past couple weeks on a layout that I've been running for around 3 months (with an Xray t3'11), and managed to take 2 tenths off my fastest lap, second time out!

I made a few changes to Martin's setup just so it's a bit easier to drive (definitely not as smooth as him ). I look forward to getting more comfortable with the car as it has shown great results already! Looking forward to getting my 411 TE as well
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:13 PM   #3431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JETT View Post
Does anyone know if the tamiya x-rings work on the serpent shocks. Some of my rings aren't cut cleanly and bind the shock shafts.
I know what you mean, I read awhile back that the tamiyas work.
I have bought a bag of xrings from serpent america and stormer and not one has been clean. Also when rebuilding the shocks make sure the cartridge ride up and down the shock shaft free and smooth without being to stiff. The pistons can be out of round (serpent of america warned me of this)so you may need to sand, it is fairly rare though. I have also found found the hard plastic insert to be a tad long so you may need to lightly sand like you would a ball diff plate to shorten it just enough to not smash the xring to the point of malfunction, or to make it compress onto the shaft to create the above stated resistance on the shaft while inserted in the cartridge. One last thing the circlip needs to be fully inserted into the groove and not touch the shaft check theese things before installing into shock body
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:37 PM   #3432
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Hi

Over the last 4-5 years I have concentrated on 1:12 scale. I have been running an Xray T2'009 at my local outdoor track (UK) now and again but this year I hope to put some more time into 1:10. I threw together my new S411 which went "okish" first time out. Now its time to get my head around it. I am rebuilding and giving more attention to detail.

1. I have the standard older shocks (RCM). I like them but there is too much friction in the X ring seal for my liking. I have sanded the white plastic spacer (between the cir-clip and the X ring) from 2mm down to 1.65mm thickness. I have also taken around 0.1 mm off the diameter of this part so it can "float" in the shock body a little better.... oh and I have opened up the inner dia a little so it is not so "on" the shock shaft. Much better!

2. The bearings...... oh..... well they are full of white thick grease, this transmission is not at all free from stock. I tried to soak this out and dissolve it to death in motor cleaner but it just coagulates inside. So.... if you are careful you can lift one rubber seal with a scalpel blade (retain it cause its going back later). Now you can properly wash the guys out in cleaner a number of times until the nasty stuff goes away. Now pop the seals back in and lube with you favorite light weight oil.... Much better!

3. The gear diff is too tight on the bulkhead bearings. I little light sanding here and now the gear diff can just float a little side to side without binding. All good for the transmission.

4. The drives shafts come prebuilt... NO NO NO, do not leave them alone! You need to strip them down, grind a small flat on the drive pin where the grub screw bites and then reassemble using loctite on the grub screw.

5. The turnbuckles threads are too tight on the ball socket moldings. You cannot adjust anything without the ball joints being twisted off. Need to strip these and apply some grease.

6. The rear inner link ball shafts are too long. If you drop any spacers out then the threaded part of the ball shaft is going to hit the diff blades. I removed 1mm here.

That's so far...

If this helps I will update my "no compromise" rebuild as I go.

Regards

Mark
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:36 PM   #3433
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Originally Posted by Mark Payne View Post
Hi

Over the last 4-5 years I have concentrated on 1:12 scale. I have been running an Xray T2'009 at my local outdoor track (UK) now and again but this year I hope to put some more time into 1:10. I threw together my new S411 which went "okish" first time out. Now its time to get my head around it. I am rebuilding and giving more attention to detail.

1. I have the standard older shocks (RCM). I like them but there is too much friction in the X ring seal for my liking. I have sanded the white plastic spacer (between the cir-clip and the X ring) from 2mm down to 1.65mm thickness. I have also taken around 0.1 mm off the diameter of this part so it can "float" in the shock body a little better.... oh and I have opened up the inner dia a little so it is not so "on" the shock shaft. Much better!

2. The bearings...... oh..... well they are full of white thick grease, this transmission is not at all free from stock. I tried to soak this out and dissolve it to death in motor cleaner but it just coagulates inside. So.... if you are careful you can lift one rubber seal with a scalpel blade (retain it cause its going back later). Now you can properly wash the guys out in cleaner a number of times until the nasty stuff goes away. Now pop the seals back in and lube with you favorite light weight oil.... Much better!

3. The gear diff is too tight on the bulkhead bearings. I little light sanding here and now the gear diff can just float a little side to side without binding. All good for the transmission.

4. The drives shafts come prebuilt... NO NO NO, do not leave them alone! You need to strip them down, grind a small flat on the drive pin where the grub screw bites and then reassemble using loctite on the grub screw.

5. The turnbuckles threads are too tight on the ball socket moldings. You cannot adjust anything without the ball joints being twisted off. Need to strip these and apply some grease.

6. The rear inner link ball shafts are too long. If you drop any spacers out then the threaded part of the ball shaft is going to hit the diff blades. I removed 1mm here.

That's so far...

If this helps I will update my "no compromise" rebuild as I go.

Regards

Mark
Sounds about right. I need to try a few of your tips. Have you done anything to make the gear diff smooth?
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:44 PM   #3434
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Thanks for adding the mod to the inside diameter of the plastic insert, I forgot to add that. The best thing to do is fit the insert buy itself onto the shaft an mod it to move freely. Unfortunaterly the shafts and plastic insert both vary in diameter. the shafts I have measured are between 3.17 and 3.21 thats .04mm on the shaft alone.

jett....
on the gear diff try 2 gears with no washers behind them and 300 cst and run for a day or 2 of racing. That should do the trick it worked for me.
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:06 PM   #3435
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Thanks for adding the mod to the inside diameter of the plastic insert, I forgot to add that. The best thing to do is fit the insert buy itself onto the shaft an mod it to move freely. Unfortunaterly the shafts and plastic insert both vary in diameter. the shafts I have measured are between 3.17 and 3.21 thats .04mm on the shaft alone.

jett....
on the gear diff try 2 gears with no washers behind them and 300 cst and run for a day or 2 of racing. That should do the trick it worked for me.
Thanks. I currently have been running without the two shims and using losi 50 w oil in the diff but its not as smooth as my yokomo gear diff with the same weight, but at least the serpent diff doesn't leak. I have just received the v2 diff so hopefully it will be smoother.
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