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Old 04-08-2012, 11:10 AM   #3391
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Hey guys,

trying to pick up a team edition but amain says they are out of stock...
is this because serpent is fixing some issues with the kit or am I just gonna have to wait for another shipment to come through?

Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:35 AM   #3392
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Could you sand the face of the steering block down till you get clearance for the hex. I'd still be looking at getting a new one, but the sanding should get you going.
Yo Johnny,

You seem to know your way around this car, so I'm starting with your 17.5 blinky setup - coming from a Schuey.

I get the two piece motor mount comment, but not the "set screw" part.

Can you elaborate?

"2 piece motor mount with set screw"
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:16 PM   #3393
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My LE is slowly starting to turn half grey.
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Originally Posted by rdlkgliders View Post
Mike or Martin, any word on the Exotek top decks or a comparison of the Exotek chassis and the 2.0 serpent chassis?
I tried the exotek chassis, with all of those cut-outs, as well as a few different pre production upper decks they sent me. I tested them on a very high grip carpet surface because that was what I had available.

I found the exoteck chassis actually added steering to my surprise given the cut-out should have made the chassis more flexible than the standard serpent 2.25mm chassis. But I think the weave of the fiber in the exotek is stiffer than the standard serpent chassis resulting in similar lateral stiffness, but in my opinion more longitudinal stiffness.

I don't know if they have released the upper decks yet that I tried, but they had some interesting designs that gave the rear of the car much more flex than the current available upper decks, which made the car very stable.

I am looking forward to trying these out on some asphalt surfaces.

cheers.
martin
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:54 PM   #3394
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Yo Johnny,

You seem to know your way around this car, so I'm starting with your 17.5 blinky setup - coming from a Schuey.

I get the two piece motor mount comment, but not the "set screw" part.

Can you elaborate?

"2 piece motor mount with set screw"
In place of a normal screw from the motor mount thru the top deck I just run a long setscrew (its long enough that you could use a nut on it if you wanted to lock the top plate down). It lets the car flex but not so much that it takes out the spur gears, a problem when using the 2 pce motor mount, it allows so much flex that the motor will flex the mount and take out the spur gears.

If you wanted to use the stock top deck but have a little more flex, I use another stock top deck but have cut the back so it has two long rails, but its cut so that the center screw hole stays intact to avoid the flex/spur gear problem. Its basically cutting along the right rail only and keeping that center section attached to left rail. Its a nice alternate deck option over the flexi deck.

Also on my setup, the shock pistons are all three hole, one of them is incorrect, so just make sure you run the 3 holes.

Hope you like the setup.
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:56 PM   #3395
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Originally Posted by mgivens View Post
Hey guys,

trying to pick up a team edition but amain says they are out of stock...
is this because serpent is fixing some issues with the kit or am I just gonna have to wait for another shipment to come through?

Thanks!
Can't say what A-mains kit status is, but the supplier has a hold on the kits they have waiting for Serpent to get the fixed issues into the kits and then out.
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:59 PM   #3396
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Can't say what A-mains kit status is, but the supplier has a hold on the kits they have waiting for Serpent to get the fixed issues into the kits and then out.
Hey thanks a lot johnny!

guess i will just have to wait, hopefully it gets figured out soon!

-Michael
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:06 PM   #3397
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Default inverted steering arms

I see this comment in a few setups, is this done for better alignment of the steering assembly?
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:26 PM   #3398
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I see this comment in a few setups, is this done for better alignment of the steering assembly?
One of the benefits of "flipping" the rack is that it becomes much easier to make ackerman changes. Remove the bumper and use a longer 2mm driver and you can remove the ball-end screw from the ackerman plate with it still in the car. Adding or removing shims becomes very easy this way.

From a performance standpoint, I found flipping the rack allowed for a more direct feel in steering feedback vs. the traditional position.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:48 PM   #3399
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Duckman is correct, although I use a long ball end wrench and don't even have to remove the bumper to make the adjustments. You will have to trim some material of your battery hold down if you run it in the forward position. Put it together and you'll be able to figure how much and at what angle you have to trim the part.

Also on the LE the flipped arms is the normal assembly now.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:55 AM   #3400
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i not sure u guys feel the same?? my te save tire even with -1.5 chamber all round. compared to my others car. does the soft arm cause this?
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:21 AM   #3401
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Duckman is correct, although I use a long ball end wrench and don't even have to remove the bumper to make the adjustments. You will have to trim some material of your battery hold down if you run it in the forward position. Put it together and you'll be able to figure how much and at what angle you have to trim the part.

Also on the LE the flipped arms is the normal assembly now.
Thanks Johnny Wishbone and duckman996 for the quick responses,

I did trim a pinch from the plastic tape retainer to get full steering, pretty simple mod.

Often times when building a new touring kit, everything is compared to "Xray" quality, for a long time that was the standard. Not sure what others have found, but this kit at least is as good in terms of materials quality and design for that matter, than anything I've built from Xray. Also, I can't see durability being an issue at all.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:50 AM   #3402
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Durability seems to be very good. I have been running outdoors for 2 months plus and taken my share of impacts with both other cars and barriers. I have not broken anything (yet). I too like a lot of other guys on this thread used to run xrays, I still have a couple in fact and the Serpent holds up very well in comparison, both in durabiity and quality. I do like the Exotek bumper brace thougn as an option for the one potentially week spot especially when running the 2.0 chassis
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:09 PM   #3403
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how much ground clearance do you run on your body vs. the chassis ground clearance? for example: if your chassis has 5mm ground clearance, does your body have 5mm ground clearance? more clearance? less clearance? front and sides?

the reason i ask is i was looking at some racing photos of ets and ats tc series and the front splitter seems to be very "thin" compared to the cut lines that are molded in the bodies. it looks as though the sides may be cut in the right places but the front has been cut higher for more ground clearance.

what's your thoughts?
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:39 PM   #3404
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I have a probleme with my s411 TE on the left side my wheelhex and CDV getting really hot after 1 min, it's like the bearing sits a bit to deep in the steeringblock and after fixing the wheel the hex is rubbing the steeringblock.
is there any quick fix or is it better to just replace the steeringblock or can it be another problem.
thanks

the steeringblock are defective and that does not happen you need to put a siim Whaser betwen a bearing steeringblock of 0.30
I have received here in Spain 4 s411 TE all have the same problem
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:58 PM   #3405
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
how much ground clearance do you run on your body vs. the chassis ground clearance? for example: if your chassis has 5mm ground clearance, does your body have 5mm ground clearance? more clearance? less clearance? front and sides?

the reason i ask is i was looking at some racing photos of ets and ats tc series and the front splitter seems to be very "thin" compared to the cut lines that are molded in the bodies. it looks as though the sides may be cut in the right places but the front has been cut higher for more ground clearance.

what's your thoughts?
Most of the time I have the body trimmed to the cut lines and mounted, I make sure the nose is solid and has little flex, use a third mount to keep the hood from sagging. Then with the tires on the car (ride height set) I run a sharpie around the body to see how far out it is, which by all accounts is about 4mm more trimming.
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