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Old 04-03-2012, 11:49 PM   #3361
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i have s411te bind issue at rear diif and uj. this is serpent reply.


Gear-differential v2
The new differential as we supply in the 411-TE unfortunately has some manufacturing issues.
The differential, due to changes as made, is 1mm wider then it should be.
When you use more toe-in and/or camber the suspension will lock up, because the blades bottom out on the inside of the diff adapters.

We will make new gear-diff adaptors, and / or mo

solution....from serpent.

Quick fix for drivers is to take approx 0.1mm (more as needed) from the top of the blades, so they can go in deeper.
Other way, which requires right tooling, is to grind the diff-adaptors deeper, with a super-hard-dril

my solution.. swap the rear dogbone with tamiya 44mm or yokomo 44.5mm will do.

i wish serpent to replace the new parts.
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Old 04-04-2012, 05:33 AM   #3362
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i have s411te bind issue at rear diif and uj.

my solution.. swap the rear dogbone with tamiya 44mm or yokomo 44.5mm will do.

i wish serpent to replace the new parts.
How much rear toe and camber are you running when this bind occurs? Do you think running shorter drive shafts would create more rear traction?
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:08 AM   #3363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaim View Post
i have s411te bind issue at rear diif and uj. this is serpent reply.


Gear-differential v2
The new differential as we supply in the 411-TE unfortunately has some manufacturing issues.
The differential, due to changes as made, is 1mm wider then it should be.
When you use more toe-in and/or camber the suspension will lock up, because the blades bottom out on the inside of the diff adapters.

We will make new gear-diff adaptors, and / or mo

solution....from serpent.

Quick fix for drivers is to take approx 0.1mm (more as needed) from the top of the blades, so they can go in deeper.
Other way, which requires right tooling, is to grind the diff-adaptors deeper, with a super-hard-dril

my solution.. swap the rear dogbone with tamiya 44mm or yokomo 44.5mm will do.

i wish serpent to replace the new parts.
I had the same issue, you cannot go to 2 camber, without binding!!!

So I grind the blades for solution..

My question, would the tamiya swing shaft work perfectly???
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:48 AM   #3364
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Originally Posted by ferfelu View Post
I had the same issue, you cannot go to 2 camber, without binding!!!

So I grind the blades for solution..

My question, would the tamiya swing shaft work perfectly???
original cross joint fit perfectly!! but i would love to see 4 pcs spring steel uj in my te.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:59 AM   #3365
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Originally Posted by ZORO1 View Post
I have had the issue with the plastic ones. Kit uprights on my LE were really tight on the arm and binded. One side was 3deg the other was 2.5. Changed to harder arms and medium uprights and the fit was perfect no binding but rear toe was still off. I just ordered some aluminum uprights because it help get me an even 3 deg on other cars i've had. So will see when I get them if it solves the issue.
i just took some photos to compare ( both are 0 degree spec) check out the pin position
Attached Thumbnails
Serpent S411-2012-04-03-22.14.35sample1.jpg   Serpent S411-2012-04-03-22.08.07sample2.jpg  
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:01 AM   #3366
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
How much rear toe and camber are you running when this bind occurs? Do you think running shorter drive shafts would create more rear traction?
if follow manual, cant even tie up your rod. lengthen the rod maximum i think is positive 0 chamber.

i not sure shorter uj will give me more traction or not. i just want my rear to be nagative 1.5 chamber without binding..my feel on this car was very forgiving due to the super soft front arm maybe.will try hard arm and c hub, see which 1 suit me best!!cheers
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:34 AM   #3367
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I am curious, if you run one pin though both.. do they align better, it could be the face of the upright that is off..

Thanks...

Quote:
Originally Posted by samhun View Post
i just took some photos to compare ( both are 0 degree spec) check out the pin position
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:03 AM   #3368
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Originally Posted by TimPotter View Post
I am curious, if you run one pin though both.. do they align better, it could be the face of the upright that is off..

Thanks...
Hi Tim,
It stucked and doesn't goes through the hole from one to another upright.
I just made up my mind this morning and decided to get the new TE s411, since my LE Shocks also gave me the most troublesome inner foam that will turn dead after several times of rebuild. But today i read from the forum that the New TE S411 has another issues...which was the gear differential.....Omg!!! This is seriously cut off my mood man. I am a big Fan of serpent car kit since 12 years ago. But ever since the production moved to asia...then the headache comes. Many brands are made in China these days...but they don't seem to have that much of problem on Quality/Precision. I have a pack of serpent #411206 Balljoint that comes in different lenght....i was shock with that packing. I did email to serpent company regarding about these, but they didn't reply me anything. Which this is really make me sick.

Last edited by samhun; 04-04-2012 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:12 AM   #3369
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Xray had the same bind issues when more camber was being used on narrow width settings of their new cars too, so its not just Serpent.

Also my understanding is the TE issue is being fixed.

Did you run those rear uprights before you measured them? I personally don't like alloy uprights or C-hubs as they can twist and never return to normal where the plastics will break, but then I know for certain that its bad. I had another make of rear uprights that twisted once when hitting a board, not much of a hit, but enough to change the rear toe.
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:47 AM   #3370
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Xray had the same bind issues when more camber was being used on narrow width settings of their new cars too, so its not just Serpent.

Also my understanding is the TE is on hold until the issue is fixed and the kit parts are fixed.

Did you run those rear uprights before you measured them? I personally don't like alloy uprights or C-hubs as they can twist and never return to normal where the plastics will break, but then I know for certain that its bad. I had another make of rear uprights that twisted once when hitting a board, not much of a hit, but enough to change the rear toe.
Hi john,
A friend of mine just got his TE s411 couple of days ago. I think he'll probably notice the gear differential issues by this weekend. Ermm...i haven't test run the Option Alu upright yet, but since My LHS already agreed to replace me another new one. So, i will just wait for the new batch to test it. Reason of changing the Option alu upright was because each time my car got hit by others, my Ballend sometimes came off from the plastic upright.
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:50 PM   #3371
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Originally Posted by samhun View Post
Hi john,
A friend of mine just got his TE s411 couple of days ago. I think he'll probably notice the gear differential issues by this weekend. Ermm...i haven't test run the Option Alu upright yet, but since My LHS already agreed to replace me another new one. So, i will just wait for the new batch to test it. Reason of changing the Option alu upright was because each time my car got hit by others, my Ballend sometimes came off from the plastic upright.
I think Serpent will fix the bind by increasing the plunge on the outdrives but in the mean time tell your friend to do the trim of the pin cushion so he has no problems.

I know what you mean about the pulled ball stud issue. Do you run the extra setscrew in the empty upright hole? Some find this is enough to strengthen the wall thickness so the ballstud doesn't pull out. On my practice car I do two things with the uprights, first I drill the ballstud holes all the way thru, and then tap them with a actual tap, not a screw, so it cuts the threads and doesn't stress the upright as I've seen them split just putting the screws in. Secondly, I change out the outer ballstud and link for the older Xray balljoint that uses a screw to secure it, this way once I set my rc spacing I can put a much longer screw in that fills the whole length of the upright.

Hopefully the LHS will get you fixed up.
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Old 04-04-2012, 01:47 PM   #3372
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Originally Posted by samhun View Post
Hi Tim,
It stucked and doesn't goes through the hole from one to another upright.
I just made up my mind this morning and decided to get the new TE s411, since my LE Shocks also gave me the most troublesome inner foam that will turn dead after several times of rebuild. But today i read from the forum that the New TE S411 has another issues...which was the gear differential.....Omg!!! This is seriously cut off my mood man. I am a big Fan of serpent car kit since 12 years ago. But ever since the production moved to asia...then the headache comes. Many brands are made in China these days...but they don't seem to have that much of problem on Quality/Precision. I have a pack of serpent #411206 Balljoint that comes in different lenght....i was shock with that packing. I did email to serpent company regarding about these, but they didn't reply me anything. Which this is really make me sick.
I just didn't tell everything!!!

My kit came with a shock shaft that was not fully threaded!!!

So, I had to go to a local machine shop, for them to fully threaded for me!!!

I had 2 bad items in the kit, shocks shaft and diff cups...
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:16 PM   #3373
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Originally Posted by ferfelu View Post
I just didn't tell everything!!!

My kit came with a shock shaft that was not fully threaded!!!

So, I had to go to a local machine shop, for them to fully threaded for me!!!

I had 2 bad items in the kit, shocks shaft and diff cups...
I heard from a pretty good source that they where holding all TE kits that are in stock to fix any of the problems that have been found before they get too many out to the racers. Pulling the kits and getting the right parts all together so there are no more problems.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:19 PM   #3374
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Hi Guys i just have a little question with tires , here there are a new track with Synthetic Grass , i always run in asphalt so i dont know anythithing about running in this type of surface , can you help me with the selection of the tires ? i always run Foams on Asphalt so i dont know what to use in the synthetic grass

This is the type of grass







Thanks in Advance
Cheers
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:46 PM   #3375
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Hi Guys i just have a little question with tires , here there are a new track with Synthetic Grass , i always run in asphalt so i dont know anythithing about running in this type of surface , can you help me with the selection of the tires ? i always run Foams on Asphalt so i dont know what to use in the synthetic grass

This is the type of grass


Thanks in Advance
Cheers

WOW, I thought the guy on polished concrete was a challenge. If its grass I would think that its going to be kind of a moving weave with no real groove ever coming up, especially if its that plastic grass stuff. My best guess would be to run a grooved tire like what the guys run in rain races. But I'm really guessing.
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