16LikesSerpent S411
03-19-2012, 02:25 PM
#3211
Hey Mike.
I agree with rdlkgliders... way to stiff...make ride height the same etc. Also the front roll center is too low at ony 3mm spacers on inboard upper arm. Also the front shock oil is too light for the springs you are running, an the rear shock oil is waaaayyy too stiff.
Can I make a suggestion.. I would start with my setup listed here
http://serpent.com/file.php?FileID=5367
,,,and just play with spring rates I think the white will be a good spring rate for a low grip asphalt, but you may want to try a gray,..but nothing harder.
If you want more rear grip you can a) use the 3.5 rear toe in block b) use 3mm instead of 4mm on inboard upper link. I would try (b) before (a) to reduce the chances of the rear tires overheating later in the run due to too much slip angle.
You may also want to checkout my setup app available for android and for apple devices at www.setupworkbench.com, to help you learn more about how to setup your car so you can enjoy that serpent more!
I agree with rdlkgliders... way to stiff...make ride height the same etc. Also the front roll center is too low at ony 3mm spacers on inboard upper arm. Also the front shock oil is too light for the springs you are running, an the rear shock oil is waaaayyy too stiff.
Can I make a suggestion.. I would start with my setup listed here
http://serpent.com/file.php?FileID=5367
,,,and just play with spring rates I think the white will be a good spring rate for a low grip asphalt, but you may want to try a gray,..but nothing harder.
If you want more rear grip you can a) use the 3.5 rear toe in block b) use 3mm instead of 4mm on inboard upper link. I would try (b) before (a) to reduce the chances of the rear tires overheating later in the run due to too much slip angle.
You may also want to checkout my setup app available for android and for apple devices at www.setupworkbench.com, to help you learn more about how to setup your car so you can enjoy that serpent more!
My bugger i meant 900cst rear diff and 350cst sbock oil oops.
03-19-2012, 05:29 PM
#3212
I'd also consider trying to prep the tires with Trinity tire tweak and the p-gon. I would also consider going to a ball diff in the rear so you can slip the lock up a little more, this should let the car exit off and straighten out before the power starts going down.
Let us know what you figure out and please post your setup sheet as I don't think there is much for concrete setups, you could be the test bed for this.
03-19-2012, 05:52 PM
#3213
Wow that must be slippery. Martin and rdl are pretty accurate in what to try. One thing for sure is that with 350 oil and orange spring you're all on the spring and not getting much out of the dampening. Still think there could be something in the caster as well, but we are kind of limited in reducing other than putting in some antidive. I also think that the 2.0/1.0 suspension split in the front bridges create a bit of arm sweep that makes the front more aggressive than what you need. 'd give the 2.0/2.0 a try with 0 lower rc in the front and 1mm in the front/rear.
I'd also consider trying to prep the tires with Trinity tire tweak and the p-gon. I would also consider going to a ball diff in the rear so you can slip the lock up a little more, this should let the car exit off and straighten out before the power starts going down.
Let us know what you figure out and please post your setup sheet as I don't think there is much for concrete setups, you could be the test bed for this.
I'd also consider trying to prep the tires with Trinity tire tweak and the p-gon. I would also consider going to a ball diff in the rear so you can slip the lock up a little more, this should let the car exit off and straighten out before the power starts going down.
Let us know what you figure out and please post your setup sheet as I don't think there is much for concrete setups, you could be the test bed for this.
03-19-2012, 06:52 PM
#3214
Mike if you like send me a pm with your email and I will send you my most recent setup sheet. I would make the changes you can without buying new parts and test before spending money however softer springs are a big step in the right direction.
Martin and JW are awsome with setup they both helped me get close and tweek from there.
I run a lot outdoors on a loose asphalt track.
Martin and JW are awsome with setup they both helped me get close and tweek from there.
I run a lot outdoors on a loose asphalt track.
03-19-2012, 07:31 PM
#3215
Mike if you like send me a pm with your email and I will send you my most recent setup sheet. I would make the changes you can without buying new parts and test before spending money however softer springs are a big step in the right direction.
Martin and JW are awsome with setup they both helped me get close and tweek from there.
I run a lot outdoors on a loose asphalt track.
Martin and JW are awsome with setup they both helped me get close and tweek from there.
I run a lot outdoors on a loose asphalt track.
03-19-2012, 08:12 PM
#3216
Thanks its a 60 meters straight , its a 1/10 NITRO TRACK , usually i run 10.5 Tekin RS PRO SENSORED ESC , and the 13T ITS A controled motor in a parking lot with no more than 30 meters straight its stock esc . We run 12 MINUTES with 5000 MHA LIPO
Thanks !!!!
Thanks !!!!
03-19-2012, 08:15 PM
#3217
Thanks !!!!
03-19-2012, 08:18 PM
#3218
10.5 blinky mode - try 5.2 - 5.5 FDR but check temps at 2 mins Can Timing start at 2.5 hash marks +
10.5 boosted, depending on the turbo / boost setting I would start at 7.7-8 and go from there.
03-19-2012, 11:03 PM
#3219
I think the TE will come with the 1.2 rear (long) and 1.4 front bar, springs will be yellow and orange.
The main changes over the stock S411 are the lipo holders, the V2 steering rack, the V2 gear diff, and the bladder type shocks. Also thicker body posts and a bigger front bumper.
The car will probably be the med plastic parts, so you might want to try the hard parts, arms, upright and c-hubs. Really depends on what type of surface you will run on, but the medium parts work quite well.
So for parts I'd do this;
- Hard parts (totally optional)
- Flexi top deck (optional)
- A hard front bumper xray or parma (this depends on what the new one is like)
- 2.0 suspension bridge
- 3.5 suspension bridge
- grey, black and white springs
Really the car works pretty good out of the box, I've tried a lot of option parts but seem to go back to the box stock parts and fine tune from there.
03-20-2012, 04:57 AM
#3220
Martin when I click the link to your setup sheet the sheet comes up blank with no info on it???
03-20-2012, 11:14 AM
#3221
.
Last edited by brunelli ale; 03-20-2012 at 12:15 PM.
03-20-2012, 11:20 AM
#3222
Sorry, totally missed this one.
I think the TE will come with the 1.2 rear (long) and 1.4 front bar, springs will be yellow and orange.
The main changes over the stock S411 are the lipo holders, the V2 steering rack, the V2 gear diff, and the bladder type shocks. Also thicker body posts and a bigger front bumper.
The car will probably be the med plastic parts, so you might want to try the hard parts, arms, upright and c-hubs. Really depends on what type of surface you will run on, but the medium parts work quite well.
So for parts I'd do this;
- Hard parts (totally optional)
- Flexi top deck (optional)
- A hard front bumper xray or parma (this depends on what the new one is like)
- 2.0 suspension bridge
- 3.5 suspension bridge
- grey, black and white springs
Really the car works pretty good out of the box, I've tried a lot of option parts but seem to go back to the box stock parts and fine tune from there.
I think the TE will come with the 1.2 rear (long) and 1.4 front bar, springs will be yellow and orange.
The main changes over the stock S411 are the lipo holders, the V2 steering rack, the V2 gear diff, and the bladder type shocks. Also thicker body posts and a bigger front bumper.
The car will probably be the med plastic parts, so you might want to try the hard parts, arms, upright and c-hubs. Really depends on what type of surface you will run on, but the medium parts work quite well.
So for parts I'd do this;
- Hard parts (totally optional)
- Flexi top deck (optional)
- A hard front bumper xray or parma (this depends on what the new one is like)
- 2.0 suspension bridge
- 3.5 suspension bridge
- grey, black and white springs
Really the car works pretty good out of the box, I've tried a lot of option parts but seem to go back to the box stock parts and fine tune from there.
Thanks again.
03-20-2012, 11:37 AM
#3223
SERPENT released 1.75mm Upper Deck
03-20-2012, 11:52 AM
#3224
Tech Adept
Hi Guys,
Do you know where i can find the Migthy gripper V2 ?
ThX !
Do you know where i can find the Migthy gripper V2 ?
ThX !
03-20-2012, 12:56 PM
#3225
Thanks for the info! Couple of other questions: Is the servo mount adequate now? Heard that on the first revision of car, the servo mounting graphite plate was sub-standard, and allowed the servo to move around, messing up the steering centering. Also, would an asphalt setup be a good starting point for a low to med. grip carpet track?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
I would run Martins last setup from the Canadian Nats for a start and tune from there, maybe only using 3mm on the inner rear upper link, or run a long rear link, but thats about it. You can find it on the Serpent website.