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Old 03-19-2012, 03:25 PM   #3211
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Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
Hey Mike.

I agree with rdlkgliders... way to stiff...make ride height the same etc. Also the front roll center is too low at ony 3mm spacers on inboard upper arm. Also the front shock oil is too light for the springs you are running, an the rear shock oil is waaaayyy too stiff.

Can I make a suggestion.. I would start with my setup listed here
http://serpent.com/file.php?FileID=5367

,,,and just play with spring rates I think the white will be a good spring rate for a low grip asphalt, but you may want to try a gray,..but nothing harder.

If you want more rear grip you can a) use the 3.5 rear toe in block b) use 3mm instead of 4mm on inboard upper link. I would try (b) before (a) to reduce the chances of the rear tires overheating later in the run due to too much slip angle.

You may also want to checkout my setup app available for android and for apple devices at www.setupworkbench.com, to help you learn more about how to setup your car so you can enjoy that serpent more!
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Do you prep the concrete at all ? That has to be a pretty slippery surface. I wonder if the car is far to aggressive in the front end. Maybe changing the castor and eliminate the arm sweep, just throwing that out there as I have had no experience on concrete.
Thanks Martin will have a look at the setup today, Johnny non prepped concrete... so i bake paragon in 20mins inbefore my heat.

My bugger i meant 900cst rear diff and 350cst sbock oil oops.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:29 PM   #3212
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Originally Posted by Mike Schroder View Post
Thanks Martin will have a look at the setup today, Johnny non prepped concrete... so i bake paragon in 20mins inbefore my heat.

My bugger i meant 900cst rear diff and 350cst sbock oil oops.
Wow that must be slippery. Martin and rdl are pretty accurate in what to try. One thing for sure is that with 350 oil and orange spring you're all on the spring and not getting much out of the dampening. Still think there could be something in the caster as well, but we are kind of limited in reducing other than putting in some antidive. I also think that the 2.0/1.0 suspension split in the front bridges create a bit of arm sweep that makes the front more aggressive than what you need. 'd give the 2.0/2.0 a try with 0 lower rc in the front and 1mm in the front/rear.

I'd also consider trying to prep the tires with Trinity tire tweak and the p-gon. I would also consider going to a ball diff in the rear so you can slip the lock up a little more, this should let the car exit off and straighten out before the power starts going down.

Let us know what you figure out and please post your setup sheet as I don't think there is much for concrete setups, you could be the test bed for this.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:52 PM   #3213
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Wow that must be slippery. Martin and rdl are pretty accurate in what to try. One thing for sure is that with 350 oil and orange spring you're all on the spring and not getting much out of the dampening. Still think there could be something in the caster as well, but we are kind of limited in reducing other than putting in some antidive. I also think that the 2.0/1.0 suspension split in the front bridges create a bit of arm sweep that makes the front more aggressive than what you need. 'd give the 2.0/2.0 a try with 0 lower rc in the front and 1mm in the front/rear.

I'd also consider trying to prep the tires with Trinity tire tweak and the p-gon. I would also consider going to a ball diff in the rear so you can slip the lock up a little more, this should let the car exit off and straighten out before the power starts going down.

Let us know what you figure out and please post your setup sheet as I don't think there is much for concrete setups, you could be the test bed for this.
Johnny thanks for the further info i will be testing these on friday noight so i will post on saturday i have just ordered the white + Gray springs and the flex top dexk as well so lets see how i go. Thanks again for the help.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:52 PM   #3214
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Mike if you like send me a pm with your email and I will send you my most recent setup sheet. I would make the changes you can without buying new parts and test before spending money however softer springs are a big step in the right direction.
Martin and JW are awsome with setup they both helped me get close and tweek from there.
I run a lot outdoors on a loose asphalt track.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:31 PM   #3215
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Originally Posted by rdlkgliders View Post
Mike if you like send me a pm with your email and I will send you my most recent setup sheet. I would make the changes you can without buying new parts and test before spending money however softer springs are a big step in the right direction.
Martin and JW are awsome with setup they both helped me get close and tweek from there.
I run a lot outdoors on a loose asphalt track.
Hi, i sent you a PM. Thanks.
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:12 PM   #3216
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Thanks its a 60 meters straight , its a 1/10 NITRO TRACK , usually i run 10.5 Tekin RS PRO SENSORED ESC , and the 13T ITS A controled motor in a parking lot with no more than 30 meters straight its stock esc . We run 12 MINUTES with 5000 MHA LIPO

Thanks !!!!
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:15 PM   #3217
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Originally Posted by duckman996 View Post
We'll need a little more info...

i) Track size (length of straight).
ii) Boosted or Blinky Speed controller setting

13T as in 13.5 turn brushless?
Thanks its a 60 meters straight , its a 1/10 NITRO TRACK , usually i run 10.5 Tekin RS PRO SENSORED ESC , and the 13T ITS A controled motor in a parking lot with no more than 30 meters straight its stock esc . We run 12 MINUTES with 5000 MHA LIPO

Thanks !!!!
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:18 PM   #3218
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Originally Posted by Adrean View Post
Thanks its a 60 meters straight , its a 1/10 NITRO TRACK , usually i run 10.5 Tekin RS PRO SENSORED ESC , and the 13T ITS A controled motor in a parking lot with no more than 30 meters straight its stock esc . We run 12 MINUTES with 5000 MHA LIPO

Thanks !!!!
It all depends on the motors that you are running. I'm not too familiar with running a 13T - however, I have ran a 10.5 and here is where I started with some decent results. The motor was a Duo2 Trinity BTW.

10.5 blinky mode - try 5.2 - 5.5 FDR but check temps at 2 mins Can Timing start at 2.5 hash marks +

10.5 boosted, depending on the turbo / boost setting I would start at 7.7-8 and go from there.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:03 AM   #3219
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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT View Post
Anyone know what springs/swaybars will come with the team edition car? Gonna order one, but I'm switch over from a cyclone to the S411, so I need to know what spare/tuning parts to order with the car.
Sorry, totally missed this one.

I think the TE will come with the 1.2 rear (long) and 1.4 front bar, springs will be yellow and orange.

The main changes over the stock S411 are the lipo holders, the V2 steering rack, the V2 gear diff, and the bladder type shocks. Also thicker body posts and a bigger front bumper.

The car will probably be the med plastic parts, so you might want to try the hard parts, arms, upright and c-hubs. Really depends on what type of surface you will run on, but the medium parts work quite well.

So for parts I'd do this;

- Hard parts (totally optional)
- Flexi top deck (optional)
- A hard front bumper xray or parma (this depends on what the new one is like)

- 2.0 suspension bridge
- 3.5 suspension bridge
- grey, black and white springs

Really the car works pretty good out of the box, I've tried a lot of option parts but seem to go back to the box stock parts and fine tune from there.
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:57 AM   #3220
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Martin when I click the link to your setup sheet the sheet comes up blank with no info on it???
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:14 PM   #3221
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.

Last edited by brunelli ale; 03-20-2012 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:20 PM   #3222
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Sorry, totally missed this one.

I think the TE will come with the 1.2 rear (long) and 1.4 front bar, springs will be yellow and orange.

The main changes over the stock S411 are the lipo holders, the V2 steering rack, the V2 gear diff, and the bladder type shocks. Also thicker body posts and a bigger front bumper.

The car will probably be the med plastic parts, so you might want to try the hard parts, arms, upright and c-hubs. Really depends on what type of surface you will run on, but the medium parts work quite well.

So for parts I'd do this;

- Hard parts (totally optional)
- Flexi top deck (optional)
- A hard front bumper xray or parma (this depends on what the new one is like)

- 2.0 suspension bridge
- 3.5 suspension bridge
- grey, black and white springs

Really the car works pretty good out of the box, I've tried a lot of option parts but seem to go back to the box stock parts and fine tune from there.
Thanks for the info! Couple of other questions: Is the servo mount adequate now? Heard that on the first revision of car, the servo mounting graphite plate was sub-standard, and allowed the servo to move around, messing up the steering centering. Also, would an asphalt setup be a good starting point for a low to med. grip carpet track?

Thanks again.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:37 PM   #3223
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SERPENT released 1.75mm Upper Deck
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Serpent S411-ser-401563.jpg  
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:52 PM   #3224
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Hi Guys,

Do you know where i can find the Migthy gripper V2 ?

ThX !
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:56 PM   #3225
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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT View Post
Thanks for the info! Couple of other questions: Is the servo mount adequate now? Heard that on the first revision of car, the servo mounting graphite plate was sub-standard, and allowed the servo to move around, messing up the steering centering. Also, would an asphalt setup be a good starting point for a low to med. grip carpet track?

Thanks again.
The servo mount works quite well and hasn't been a issue, if you want to run a servo saver you will either have to grind a small relief under where the saver goes or raise the servo up about 1mm. If you chose to raise the servo, I usually run two layers of servo tape under the servo so that it doesn't settle down and cause bind with the saver and the servo mount.

I would run Martins last setup from the Canadian Nats for a start and tune from there, maybe only using 3mm on the inner rear upper link, or run a long rear link, but thats about it. You can find it on the Serpent website.
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