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Old 03-07-2012, 06:25 PM   #3091
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its a way to fine tune the the diff. using 4 gears adds resistance to the diff. not much but enough so that it is almost like using oils that are only 200-250cst apart. its really fine tuning. and i have 5 diffs built 2 are duplicates with the same oil but with 4 gears instead of 2.


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Originally Posted by Serpent Guy View Post
i have a question about the rear diff

why are most people only running 2 gears instead of 4?

is it just the mass or is there another reason?
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:29 PM   #3092
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Last Leg of Grand Slam Series



Hey guys I know late been extremely busy. Yes me and James ran the the exact same set up except the stiffer spring upfront as James stated. I felt as though the car carried a little more corner speed. I qualified 3rd and Finished 3. I had a rough start which put me at the back of the pack. I had to fight from 10th place back up to third. The car was simply amazing ran the fastest lap of the weekend of a 10.801 just more mistakes on my end.

Currently getting the car ready for Canadian on road Nationals this coming weekend. Very excited about that not sure about the traction level but I intend to pick Mr. Crisp brain. Lol

Looking forward to the Canadian On Road Nats!!!
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:07 AM   #3093
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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
First off, I appreciate all of the insight!



I have let the additive sit for up to 30 min, and it makes no difference from that to 6 min (1 heat previous). I am using SXT, which is the only thing permitted on our track. Danny uses the same. Tracks are ozite carpet, medium grip.

No rear sway bar, 1.4 front, per the recommendation of a Tamiya and Xray driver. Camber links are stock, which I would describe as medium length, inner hole on the outside, inner hole in the inside. Diff oil is 1200wt (stock). I have 800 and 2000 as options as well. Danny was running half 1k, half 2k, and was pleased with the results. Comparing brand to brand though is tough. V1 motor mount, all top deck screws in. Steering expo is at 60%, end points are just before the knuckle hits the c-hub.



I am pretty sure it is not a good idea, as I assume that it is part of the cause of my tires overheating. I have tried running up several holes (several options, several runs), and all it does is make the back end loose at the beginning (undriveably so if more then 2 holes up from the bottom). I can try the swaybar, but not sure, as my car seems to be reacting differently from Danny's.



It does feel better at first, and then I lose the traction when the tires overheat. But currently, as least it feels better at first. Standing the shocks up, it feels awful from beginning to end. I have a last place main finish to show for it, as I was still tinkering, and was assured that would help. I have not tried the V2 mount (I have it) or the lose/removed topdeck screw. What is odd to me is how different my car handles then Danny's. Unknown on his car is if the top deck, or any of the plastics are different from stock. His shock oil is a little lighter in the front, but otherwise we are set almost the same, minus the shock position. When I mimic'd his setup, my car was undriveable.
Grant, how much rebound did you set on the rear shocks? I know we are running 2 totally different classes, but last week's rear traction issues for me were the difference between 25% rebound last week and 50% this Wednesday.
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:47 AM   #3094
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James,Jw or someone else running the v2 Rack upside down I have a ?
on the flipped v2 steering rack there are 3 places for spacers
the servo linkage, the ball studs conecting the linkage to the carrier and in betwen the arms and main rack assembly.
which spacers are you running in each?
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:49 AM   #3095
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Originally Posted by rdlkgliders View Post
James,Jw or someone else running the v2 Rack upside down I have a ?
on the flipped v2 steering rack there are 3 places for spacers
the servo linkage, the ball studs conecting the linkage to the carrier and in betwen the arms and main rack assembly.
which spacers are you running in each?
Servo linkage has a 2mm spacer on the servo horn or servo saver to the linkage, other end at the rack has no spacers.

The rack to the arms, I run a slightly larger washer to prevent the rack from moving up on the pressed in bearings, so I have the screw, the larger washer, 2 x .015 shims (this keeps the washer from squishing to the top of the rack and lets it rotate) thru the bearing, 1 x .010 shim, and then attached to the arm. This is the same on both sides.

The washers between the ball studs (the face towards the front of the car) are used to set the ackerman, the supplied shims are .5mm thick and I use 4 shims for a total of 2mm out from the rack.

Hope that answers what you're asking, if not let us know.

***Remember if you're going to run the flipped arms, you will have to file a small amount off the battery tape holder, its best to put it together and then turn the wheel as far as you can go, this will let you see roughly the angle that you have to file off the holder, (its about 1mm) but once done you can get full lock to lock if you need it.
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:06 AM   #3096
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Thanks JW, thats exactly what I was looking for.
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:36 AM   #3097
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
You can't go buy what the Tamiya and Xray guys use, I know when I ran a X the rear bar was out, but on the S411 I will run the 1.2 or even the 1.4 bar, the later which help the car react on corner off and not roll as bad or flattens the car out. Without the rear bar the car feels sloppy loose in and out of the corners.

I would also look at a different body, like a Speed6, as the Stratus once was a good body but lacks overall stability compared to a 6, a LTC-R might be a good choice as well, but can be a little more aggressive in the front, so a proven body is the Speed6.

If your too soft in the back you'll just overheat the tires too soon and that will make it loose again.

What are you running for lower roll center shims? On the CRC carpet with SXT I would run a minimum of .5 but probably the 1mm shims front and back. Also I would run 1000cst in the diff, 2 gear.

The rear link (in/in on the holes) are going to make the car have a aggressive side bite, which will cause a heat issue again. I would try the long link, outside hole on the hub and inside hole on the bulkhead. For spacers from the rear inner link, outside hub and front inner, I like 3/3/4 or sometimes 4/3/4, but never seem to vary much from there.

Use the V2 rack and run the 2mm of ackerman.

The 2 pce motor mount just about always requires the setscrew in the center or you will do the spurs in. If you run the 1 pce mount this isn't a issue, although the 1 pce sometimes feels like it gives the car a torque steer feel sometimes. You can run the 2 pce with the setscrew and still have a modified stock top deck. I have modified one by cutting the rear center section along the long bar on the right side, still retaining the hole for the motor mount, being attached to the left side long bar. This still gives the flex you want and doesn't let the motor mount flex up which is what takes out the spur gear. I tested this mod for 2 race days now with no gear failures and a slightly more flexi car.

I really find that if everyone is running SXT on the track, to stay consistent you have to clean your tires in between runs. Your right that you'll feel no difference in the length of time it sits on the tire, but cleaning seems to make it the same every run. I use motor spray and wipe each tire, then put on the SXT, time not really a factor.
Balancing 2 things, the Xray/Tamiya guys, as well as what Danny is doing. Interestingly enough, his car at our local track felt great to me. At One Lug, it felt terrible, yet he felt it was the same/similar in both places.

I had the car out a little bit last night (while helping the LHS run the night club race) and it felt very inconsistent. Tried a couple different tires just to see if temperature might be an issue. Working with one of our Xray guys and just general setup and feel, I think I have something potentially missing/binding/broken that might be causing my issues. I am going to do a tear down tonight and take it back to box stock, and see where that takes me, and then adjust from there.

I have a V2 rack and a one-piece motor mount. I will install the first, but a little mixed on the motor mount. Is it a better option? I'd prefer not having to mod the top deck this early in the game, and is that something I can avoid doing with the one piece mount? I have all top deck screws in currently, so the mesh has not been an issue. I saw some of the pics in previous pages of the modified top decks, but my tuning, and driving skills are not up to snuf enough to be able to tell the difference I think.

I do clean tires inbetween, as they do get pretty gunked up. I have used the tire cleaner, as well as motor spray. Motor spray seemed to work better, but I know others have talked about that drying out the tires. I have tried running JACO Blues (with 0 success, undriveable from the beginning), Sweep 30PP's which worked well, but are wearing fast and last about 3 min before the back end gets lose, and Sweep 30 Kitty Rugs, which work the best, and last about 4 min. Those tires had me on a 2nd place qualifying position in the 3rd heat until my own lack of mental focus kicked in, and dropped me back down.

I'll get the car on the station while I am tearing it down to see where I am at currently.

I also have an LTC-R body with liquid mask ready to be painted, so I will get that ready as well, and see how that makes a difference.

I also did a small mod to the rear shock tower to use my balancing station, and the car is almost identical left/right. A 7g weight behind the battery makes it level. Just a nice outcome as I was not sure what to expect.

Thanks!

Grant
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:13 PM   #3098
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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
Balancing 2 things, the Xray/Tamiya guys, as well as what Danny is doing. Interestingly enough, his car at our local track felt great to me. At One Lug, it felt terrible, yet he felt it was the same/similar in both places.

I had the car out a little bit last night (while helping the LHS run the night club race) and it felt very inconsistent. Tried a couple different tires just to see if temperature might be an issue. Working with one of our Xray guys and just general setup and feel, I think I have something potentially missing/binding/broken that might be causing my issues. I am going to do a tear down tonight and take it back to box stock, and see where that takes me, and then adjust from there.

I have a V2 rack and a one-piece motor mount. I will install the first, but a little mixed on the motor mount. Is it a better option? I'd prefer not having to mod the top deck this early in the game, and is that something I can avoid doing with the one piece mount? I have all top deck screws in currently, so the mesh has not been an issue. I saw some of the pics in previous pages of the modified top decks, but my tuning, and driving skills are not up to snuf enough to be able to tell the difference I think.

I do clean tires inbetween, as they do get pretty gunked up. I have used the tire cleaner, as well as motor spray. Motor spray seemed to work better, but I know others have talked about that drying out the tires. I have tried running JACO Blues (with 0 success, undriveable from the beginning), Sweep 30PP's which worked well, but are wearing fast and last about 3 min before the back end gets lose, and Sweep 30 Kitty Rugs, which work the best, and last about 4 min. Those tires had me on a 2nd place qualifying position in the 3rd heat until my own lack of mental focus kicked in, and dropped me back down.

I'll get the car on the station while I am tearing it down to see where I am at currently.

I also have an LTC-R body with liquid mask ready to be painted, so I will get that ready as well, and see how that makes a difference.

I also did a small mod to the rear shock tower to use my balancing station, and the car is almost identical left/right. A 7g weight behind the battery makes it level. Just a nice outcome as I was not sure what to expect.

Thanks!

Grant

I'll relay to you some of the things that I've found on misc. cars that have acted weird, some of this is very simple but, over sight sometimes.

Check the axle pins, they can work their way out slightly and make the car do all kinds of weird things, till they come out to the point of stopping rotation of the car.

The S411 has actual Left and Right steering hubs, so you can put them in on the wrong side, or if you replaced one, you could have the wrong side in.

We had one guy who struggled with his new car (another make), they put it on the stand and checked all the settings, continually did changes on the car and it was just plain difficult to drive, I think they spent 2 nights working on it and got no where. I took a look at it, and first thing I noticed was he had the c-hubs in backwards, so instead of tilting back, they pointed forward......suffice to say the car works much better now.

Also make sure that you don't have the belts too tight.

I run both motor mounts and really prefer the stock 2 pce unit, now that the setscrew fix came out. The stock top deck still works very well, and I run all the deck screws as well.

Not familiar with SWEEPS, but rubber tire in general seems to be dictated by the compound and the side wall. Saying that something with a higher sidewall and a bigger air gap could create some strange handling issues, so the possibility of gluing the sidewalls would help get the tire more consistent and more positive. I prefer to even do the sidewalls on the JACO blue, which seems to help slow the ring of death down on those tires.

Hope some of this might help and let us know what you find.
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:02 AM   #3099
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with the 2.0 block placed in the rear position of the front of the car the toe linkage seems to rub the block on full steering lock. Is this normal or am I missing something?
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:22 AM   #3100
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I'll relay to you some of the things that I've found on misc. cars that have acted weird, some of this is very simple but, over sight sometimes.

Check the axle pins, they can work their way out slightly and make the car do all kinds of weird things, till they come out to the point of stopping rotation of the car.

The S411 has actual Left and Right steering hubs, so you can put them in on the wrong side, or if you replaced one, you could have the wrong side in.

We had one guy who struggled with his new car (another make), they put it on the stand and checked all the settings, continually did changes on the car and it was just plain difficult to drive, I think they spent 2 nights working on it and got no where. I took a look at it, and first thing I noticed was he had the c-hubs in backwards, so instead of tilting back, they pointed forward......suffice to say the car works much better now.

Also make sure that you don't have the belts too tight.

I run both motor mounts and really prefer the stock 2 pce unit, now that the setscrew fix came out. The stock top deck still works very well, and I run all the deck screws as well.

Not familiar with SWEEPS, but rubber tire in general seems to be dictated by the compound and the side wall. Saying that something with a higher sidewall and a bigger air gap could create some strange handling issues, so the possibility of gluing the sidewalls would help get the tire more consistent and more positive. I prefer to even do the sidewalls on the JACO blue, which seems to help slow the ring of death down on those tires.

Hope some of this might help and let us know what you find.
I had actually flipped the c-hubs on my old TC3 a while back, and am very dilligent on that now. Silly mistake, but hopefully won't get burned by that one again.

The set screw fix I assume is just to replace that one screw that goes into the motor mount with a long set screw, so that the movement is limited between the motor and layshaft?

There have been a lot of awesome suggestions here, and reading this thread is a big reason I got the S411 at all. The amount of knowledge and help provided here. Couple that with the quality of my S100 and how happy I am with it, and the extremely helpful attitudes of the folks from Serpent America working with our LHS, I am very pleased with my choice, and am confident my car will be on track soon.

I will have more to report tomorrow, as I have the day at the track to work on and test some things out.

Thanks again to everyone!

Grant
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:28 PM   #3101
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Originally Posted by rdlkgliders View Post
with the 2.0 block placed in the rear position of the front of the car the toe linkage seems to rub the block on full steering lock. Is this normal or am I missing something?
Never noticed, but will check and get back to you. How much bump steer do you run? Is this with the flipped arms or normal?
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:34 PM   #3102
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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
I had actually flipped the c-hubs on my old TC3 a while back, and am very dilligent on that now. Silly mistake, but hopefully won't get burned by that one again.

The set screw fix I assume is just to replace that one screw that goes into the motor mount with a long set screw, so that the movement is limited between the motor and layshaft?

There have been a lot of awesome suggestions here, and reading this thread is a big reason I got the S411 at all. The amount of knowledge and help provided here. Couple that with the quality of my S100 and how happy I am with it, and the extremely helpful attitudes of the folks from Serpent America working with our LHS, I am very pleased with my choice, and am confident my car will be on track soon.

I will have more to report tomorrow, as I have the day at the track to work on and test some things out.

Thanks again to everyone!

Grant
Yes the long setscrew replacement. Yup, I know what you mean, just throwing those out there, sometimes so simple, but over looked. The steering hubs really can throw you off, since most cars just run a unit that can be used on other side.

Let us know what you find, good luck.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:48 PM   #3103
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Whats everyones take on the new Team Kit, worth upgrading to or just stay with the LE.

Rhys
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:57 PM   #3104
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im looking for this #401464
Lipo-battery-holder carbon in stock in the usa, any luck?
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:17 PM   #3105
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Whats everyones take on the new Team Kit, worth upgrading to or just stay with the LE.

Rhys
let you know next week man. im wanting to see the difference in diffs, spoke to Ronald last night, internals are still metal, and they are working on a lighter internal option also. i would have loved to see the alloy 19t pulleys in this kit, but not to be.
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