Martin Crisp

You might want to try just 2 degrees rear camber, as sometimes too much rear camber can result in a loose car if you have gone past the optimal camber.

Also, try running the same droop front and rear, set at 5. I don't measure my droop that way, but I believe a 5 will give you a good amount of droop allowing you to transfer weight to the rear tires under acceleration and help you get on power sooner. With a 3 setting, you likely have too much rear droop making the car loose off power.

I am not familiar with the teal spring. If it is a softer than the yellow spring then it is possible your rear spring rate is too soft, enabling the car to roll too much in the rear, causing the car to be loose mid and corner exit. I would stick with the yellow springs in the rear if you are using the orange up front. You should also try a white rear and grey front combination and see if that works for you.

Laying the rear shocks beyond the 4th hole will cause the rear to roll more and will likely cause the car to be loose mid and corner exit, so I would stay with the 4th hole in the rear.

As for roll center, I would not use anti-squat, as that will cause you to be loose throughout the corner. Keep the spacers under the hinge pin blocks as the same. I do like the 0.5mm spacer under all four hinge pin blocks. I am not sure what you are using for spacers on the inboard upper links where they attach tot he bulk heads, but I would think a 5mm inboard front would be a good start for the front. In the rear I would try 3mm outboard and 3mm inboard. If you want more rear grip then reduce the inboard from 3mm to 2mm.

As for rear toe. try 3.0 and 3.5 and see what you like better after you have tried the changes above. I would not go below 3.0.

Based on the traction compounds you are using I assume you are running on asphalt? With tire tweak, the trick is to put very little on the tire otherwise the tire will always feel slimy. Make sure you clean the tire off about 3 to 5 mins before the run so that it is nice and tacky before the run.

When you clean with buggy grip 2, make sure you wait at least 10 mins before applying the tweek. It is also important to let the tweek sit on the tires for at least 10 mins.

I hope this helps.

rdlkgliders

iTrader: (21)

Thanks Martin,
For the info and the app.

BAD007SUZUKI

iTrader: (97)

has anyone had to replace the large rubber oring for the diff case yet? i need one and am trying to find a comparable part. i dont need the revision gear set but it seems thats the only way to get it.

JamesReilly

iTrader: (59)

Use can use the ones that fit a 720 or 733 which is
Serpent 22.5x1mm Differential Case O-Ring Set (10)
[SER804200]
If you plan on coming to the Grand Slam Race at MSI this weekend I have some extra orings I can hook u up with.

LMK,
James

BAD007SUZUKI

iTrader: (97)

i dont think i can make that race, buy i appreciate the info. if something changes, i'll let you know. what day is the race?
also!!!! thanks dangerous toys for the hook up!!!!!!!!

FastHound

Completed my 411 tonight and noticed the front belt rubs the chassis at the back of the front diff cut out. Is this normal with the kit set up?

RasCalDK

I have never heard of that problem before.. Are you sure, you have placed the eccentric bearing holders right?
They should be placed in center position.

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

on my car it was also running very close to the the cut outs front and rear and also very close to the center pulley on the rear of the top deck, all i done after i was made aware of this was file the chassis cut outs to a 45 degree angle this stopped the belt rubbing and also stopped wearing the top cover of the belts also

FastHound

I am nearly positive they are correct.

gregsbox

VOTE HERE

RasCalDK

Then, depending on the amount, i'd also just file it down.

BAD007SUZUKI

iTrader: (97)

CAN ANY OF YOU ROCKET SCIENTISTS PLEASE TELL ME WHAT SHIMMING THE TOP/BOTTOM OF THE SHOCK DOES FOR THE CAR? I'VE SHIMMED THE LOWER BY 1MM JUST TO LINE THE SHOCK UP BETTER, BUT I AM GETTING MIXED THOUGHTS/INFO ABOUT WHAT IT DOES. (IF ANYTHING). CLOSEST I CAN MUSTER UP IS IT HAS TO DO WITH WEIGHT TRANSFER.

THX

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Serpent Alum. Rear Upright

ZORO1

Sounds like a question for Mr Crisp.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

You have to remember that the shock angle works on two plains, and really forward/back (shock spacing) is similar to moving your shock up and down on the lower arm and upper shock mount. The only difference is that shock spacing helps forward bite. The only thing to watch out for is any more than 2mm of spacing tends to negate any tuning advantage. The spacing will tend to make the car more stable and easier to drive, move the front shocks forward. Stability increases mainly in chicanes. The same applies to the rear shocks.

Note that the car will have less steering into corners.