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Old 02-12-2012, 09:16 PM   #2821
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Default Zero Force Serpent S411 CNC 2.0mm Carbon Chassis (ZF-SER-401432)

Zero Force Serpent S411 CNC 2.0mm Carbon Chassis (ZF-SER-401432)

Serpent S411-zero-force-serpent-s411-cnc-2.0mm-carbon-chassis-zf-ser-401432-p_wm.jpg

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Old 02-13-2012, 06:28 AM   #2822
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
This is what it looks like when you flip the arms.
Flipping the arms will add ackerman to the steering, which will make the car feel more consistent and easier to drive, but you will give up some mid corner steering.

Also the one thing to consider is that when you flip the arms the right arm will hit your battery strap holder and prevent full steering throw when turning left. If you remove the battery strap holder you will be fine.

Marc tried this at the birds race and seemed to like it, although he should give his own thoughts on this forum. I did not try it as I was trying to reduce ackerman to gain mid corner steering and also I did not want to remove the battery strap holder.

I will have to try it some other time, and compare it with just reducing the number of spacers on the v2 ackermn plate. I currently run 2mm worth of spacers, and I do think it I need to reduce that a little to get some additional consistency and give up a little mid corner steering. I will have to test next weekend.
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:59 AM   #2823
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Looking for some setup help with my S411 setup for VTA. I built the car box stock with the following exceptions. Shock oil was replaced with Losi 35 and gear diff was replaced with Associated 1000wt. If I remember exactly the front upper shocks are mounted center or down one from center if there is not a center and the rears are up two holes from laying down. For the first 4 mins the car is amazing. Handles like no other car I have had. The rear end was stuck. After that the rear goes away very fast and requires a lot of skill to work the car in the 180 corners. I have now completely removed the rear sway bar without much change. Where should I go from here? Please help. I am tied for first with 3 races left in the series and I really don't want to convert back to my 417.
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Old 02-13-2012, 03:59 PM   #2824
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What I have done is remove the rear 1mm shims and place the .5 in and or give your seld a longer wheel base in the rear.

Sounds like your over heating the rear tires ? You could also maybe turn the EPA down on the steering
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Old 02-13-2012, 05:36 PM   #2825
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Anyone having trouble with 87t and 84t spurs on asphalt I tore up 1 of each in 1 race day. the 84 looked perfect other than the 1 missing tooth.
I am going to try the 78t now for even more chassis clearance.
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:14 PM   #2826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
Flipping the arms will add ackerman to the steering, which will make the car feel more consistent and easier to drive, but you will give up some mid corner steering.

Also the one thing to consider is that when you flip the arms the right arm will hit your battery strap holder and prevent full steering throw when turning left. If you remove the battery strap holder you will be fine.

Marc tried this at the birds race and seemed to like it, although he should give his own thoughts on this forum. I did not try it as I was trying to reduce ackerman to gain mid corner steering and also I did not want to remove the battery strap holder.

I will have to try it some other time, and compare it with just reducing the number of spacers on the v2 ackermn plate. I currently run 2mm worth of spacers, and I do think it I need to reduce that a little to get some additional consistency and give up a little mid corner steering. I will have to test next weekend.
Post #2806 addresses the lock to lock fix with the battery strap.

Just wondering Martin, in your opinion, what would you adjust on the car to try and get more corner speed, or free the car up. If you could give a example similar to what you have done in your App, like start with this and give five steps.

Also I have asked for comments from Marc on here before, but my understanding is that he has no internet access, and most of what gets posted for him are done by someone else, his team mate I believe.
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:10 PM   #2827
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anyone use the xceed titanium screw kit on their car, if so can you please post some pictures thanks
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:27 AM   #2828
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I have these in my car you need to be carefully with them they are a little inconsistent with the 2mm driver I would buy another set that's for sure. The serpent ones are perfect fit in the driver
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Old 02-14-2012, 04:39 AM   #2829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCSEDanny View Post
Looking for some setup help with my S411 setup for VTA. I built the car box stock with the following exceptions. Shock oil was replaced with Losi 35 and gear diff was replaced with Associated 1000wt. If I remember exactly the front upper shocks are mounted center or down one from center if there is not a center and the rears are up two holes from laying down. For the first 4 mins the car is amazing. Handles like no other car I have had. The rear end was stuck. After that the rear goes away very fast and requires a lot of skill to work the car in the 180 corners. I have now completely removed the rear sway bar without much change. Where should I go from here? Please help. I am tied for first with 3 races left in the series and I really don't want to convert back to my 417.
Could be a number of things ur definetly over heating the tires have u ever temped them? It could come down to traction compound.. What's ur rear toe,camber? Maybe freeing the car up a little will give you a more consistent run through out ur race...try 1/2degree less camber then 1/2 less toe..this car reacts so well to small changes it should be easy to notice...remember loose is fast you don't want to be to stuck...I like to be just at the line before loose..
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Old 02-14-2012, 05:16 AM   #2830
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My V2 steering and springs arrived today Ill be running the Black front and Grey rear for now as i dont have any Greens yet. Any advice as to what oil and bars i should run on medium grip asphalt. Also what shims i should run on the V2 rack? I like aggressive steering
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:44 AM   #2831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NUCRPTRACER View Post
Could be a number of things ur definetly over heating the tires have u ever temped them? It could come down to traction compound.. What's ur rear toe,camber? Maybe freeing the car up a little will give you a more consistent run through out ur race...try 1/2degree less camber then 1/2 less toe..this car reacts so well to small changes it should be easy to notice...remember loose is fast you don't want to be to stuck...I like to be just at the line before loose..
I race with Danny as well. The rear tire fade is a common issue, and seems to be overheating the tires. He is still running box stock for rear toe and camber. We are waiting on the shop to get in the various hinge pin mounts, but the stock one is 3 degrees, and I thought the common thing was to move to the 3.5 block? I know I have been fiddling with camber a lot on my car, as well as attempting to stiffen up the front end a little while doing more traction compound on the front (to hopefully even out the changes earlier in the run, while compensating for it when the compound begins to go.

Is a loose rear end going to heat up tires more then a planted rear end? I would think the larger slip angles of the back end being loose would overheat the tires quicker, but I do not really know.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:32 AM   #2832
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I race with Danny as well. The rear tire fade is a common issue, and seems to be overheating the tires. He is still running box stock for rear toe and camber. We are waiting on the shop to get in the various hinge pin mounts, but the stock one is 3 degrees, and I thought the common thing was to move to the 3.5 block? I know I have been fiddling with camber a lot on my car, as well as attempting to stiffen up the front end a little while doing more traction compound on the front (to hopefully even out the changes earlier in the run, while compensating for it when the compound begins to go.

Is a loose rear end going to heat up tires more then a planted rear end? I would think the larger slip angles of the back end being loose would overheat the tires quicker, but I do not really know.
You are correct on all points.. Loose will build heat the trick is to not be that loose but to know that its possible to snap around the rear if your entry and exit aren't in the groove...to planted has the same issue..I would either get the car to push then dial it out or get it loose and then dial that back..with the contact patch of VTA tires I would go the opposite way in toe and camber that you get off here just cause of the differences in tire type..plus try heavier oils like 60 in front with 3 or 4 hole pistons and 45 in the rear same pistons..what traction compound do you guys use?
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:01 AM   #2833
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Originally Posted by NUCRPTRACER View Post
You are correct on all points.. Loose will build heat the trick is to not be that loose but to know that its possible to snap around the rear if your entry and exit aren't in the groove...to planted has the same issue..I would either get the car to push then dial it out or get it loose and then dial that back..with the contact patch of VTA tires I would go the opposite way in toe and camber that you get off here just cause of the differences in tire type..plus try heavier oils like 60 in front with 3 or 4 hole pistons and 45 in the rear same pistons..what traction compound do you guys use?
SXT 2.0? (The clear carpet stuff, not the yellow asphalt kind).

I have been fiddling with my rear camber (rear toe is 2 degrees) and just recently dropped it from -2 to -0.5 along with some droop and rear upper shock mount adjustments. I still need to fine adjust, but I am pleased with the results so far. Tire wear on the rear is so little as is, it is very difficult to determine the proper camber, as it takes months to see noticable wear. This is all on a Sakura Zero, which I am finishing up the series with before switching over to the Serpent, but the same adjustments should hold true.

I am interested in the effects of the shock oil though. I tune with spring weights a lot, but rarely with shock oil (partly an issue that I do not have many types, partly it is a lot more work then changing springs). What are the effects of thicker shock oil front and rear? I assume it is more rebound then dampening, but not sure what that will do. Our track while carpet is also pretty bumpy, so we do run fairly soft springs for that reason.
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:43 PM   #2834
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Quote:
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SXT 2.0? (The clear carpet stuff, not the yellow asphalt kind).

I have been fiddling with my rear camber (rear toe is 2 degrees) and just recently dropped it from -2 to -0.5 along with some droop and rear upper shock mount adjustments. I still need to fine adjust, but I am pleased with the results so far. Tire wear on the rear is so little as is, it is very difficult to determine the proper camber, as it takes months to see noticable wear. This is all on a Sakura Zero, which I am finishing up the series with before switching over to the Serpent, but the same adjustments should hold true.

I am interested in the effects of the shock oil though. I tune with spring weights a lot, but rarely with shock oil (partly an issue that I do not have many types, partly it is a lot more work then changing springs). What are the effects of thicker shock oil front and rear? I assume it is more rebound then dampening, but not sure what that will do. Our track while carpet is also pretty bumpy, so we do run fairly soft springs for that reason.
The serpent is very edgy and with the oil it helps keep the car flat and helps control the transition of the car...with VTA tires I would keep ur camber to a minimum all around maybe half up front and 1 in the rear and adjust with toe..I would run the car and temp the tires then minimize the toe and run see how the car feels and then temp the tires that should be a good indicator that the car will remain consistent .
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:28 PM   #2835
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So, how is this car? I am looking to change from an Xray T3'11, which is for sell by the way. I am sure there will be some biased opinions as this is the S411 thread. But, what are your guys' analysis on the performance of the car? Is it good out of the box? Does it need some options parts? Does it need many setup changes to be good? etc questions.

And, the important question for me, is there confidence there is, and will continue to be adequate parts/setup support?

Thanks
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