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Old 02-06-2012, 12:15 PM   #2746
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Martin...Have you tried running the other chassis? with all the talk of the one piece and two piece motor mounts and leaving screws loose and cutting the top deck wouldnt running the other chassis be a better idea? or did you find the car to have to much flex at the birds?
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:34 PM   #2747
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Martian???? LOL

thicker oil will give you less off power steering and more on-power steering.

thinner oil will give you more off power steering and less on-power steering.

hope this helps.
Hi Martin,

But it's to have a more stable car, do you think that a thinner oil will be good or not ?

I have the same setup than you concerning the upper link, but with our tyres, we need to have more rear traction... Do you have some advice for me ?

I have also kickup in front (0.5-3) and rear i'll try anti-squat. Do you think that it could be a good idea ?

PS: app is great !
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:43 PM   #2748
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any success
Sorry not yet, darn work getting in the way. Soon.

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I ran my S411 for the first time yesterday. I also own a 417 which I really like.

The car was not drivable with the stock setup in practice so I had to make a lot of changes for our medium-traction carpet track.

I went with 300 cst in rear diff, 500cst front shocks, 400cst rear. Ending up going with black front spring and rear white springs. I moved rear shocks to center hole on arm and shortened the rear link as much as possible. I also put on the thicker top plate 2.5mm.

The car has a ton of steering compared to my 417. I hope to change my front blocks to 2-2 compared to the stock configuration. Right now I don't have them yet.

I also changed droop quite a bit from stock having 2mm up travel in front ant 1mm in rear.

In the end I had to play a lot with servo speed and dual rates to get the car reasonably consistent.

An other suggestions for getting the car more consistent? I am hoping keeping the same block up front will take away that edginess that normally I like however on this car was hard to keep momentum going.

I wanted to try Martin's high grip setup however our track does doughnuts with Jaco tires so felt it wouldn't be the best way to go.

Any medium-low grip carpet setups out there worth looking at?
One of the things that really helps the car with consistency is having the gear diff well broken in, no tight spots when you rotate it by hand, this really helped my car. If it feels like there is a tight spot you can either sand the back of the big gears or run without the big shim washer that goes between the gear and o-ring, I do the shim deal and it really frees the diff up. I run 700cst oil in the diff. I still think DJC are they way to go as well. There are quire a few setups on the Serpent site as well as on the Petit RC site.

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Originally Posted by Manu_05' View Post
Hi Martin,

But it's to have a more stable car, do you think that a thinner oil will be good or not ?

I have the same setup than you concerning the upper link, but with our tyres, we need to have more rear traction... Do you have some advice for me ?

I have also kickup in front (0.5-3) and rear i'll try anti-squat. Do you think that it could be a good idea ?

PS: app is great !
Not Martin but, post your setup if you can, need to know surface, tires, traction compound as well. I don't really like kickup or anti-squat, and if anything I use anti-dive to calm the backend of the car down.
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:26 PM   #2749
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any success
Sorry doesn't work, or at least it isn't a direct bolt on replacement, would require a lot of cutting to make it work.
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:35 AM   #2750
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What springs and suspension blocks does the kit come with?
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:50 AM   #2751
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Martin...Have you tried running the other chassis? with all the talk of the one piece and two piece motor mounts and leaving screws loose and cutting the top deck wouldnt running the other chassis be a better idea? or did you find the car to have to much flex at the birds?
good point...actually that reminds me...marc ran the older chassis with the cutouts on the side.

I tried the stiffer upper deck and the flex upper deck with the kit chassis (not the one marc used) and both where good. I found the stiffer one had more steering and both where stable.
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:52 AM   #2752
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Hi Martin,

But it's to have a more stable car, do you think that a thinner oil will be good or not ?

I have the same setup than you concerning the upper link, but with our tyres, we need to have more rear traction... Do you have some advice for me ?

I have also kickup in front (0.5-3) and rear i'll try anti-squat. Do you think that it could be a good idea ?

PS: app is great !
If you want more stability I would get rid of the kick-up and the anti-squat. Also I would use a moderately thick oil in the rear diff...something between 1000 and 1500.
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:54 AM   #2753
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What springs and suspension blocks does the kit come with?
the kit comes with yellow springs for the rear and orange for the front. These work fine. Easy to drive. The suspension blocks for the rear are 3.0 and 0, and the front ones are 1.5 and 2.0 if I remember correctly.
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:29 AM   #2754
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the kit comes with yellow springs for the rear and orange for the front. These work fine. Easy to drive. The suspension blocks for the rear are 3.0 and 0, and the front ones are 1.5 and 2.0 if I remember correctly.
What additional springs and blocks should I carry with me?
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:33 AM   #2755
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What additional springs and blocks should I carry with me?
I would carry the 2.5 and the 3.5 rear block, and as well have the four grey springs and two black springs available. sometime I like grey at all four corners and sometimes I like grey in the rear and black or yellow in the front.
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Old 02-07-2012, 08:48 AM   #2756
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I would carry the 2.5 and the 3.5 rear block, and as well have the four grey springs and two black springs available. sometime I like grey at all four corners and sometimes I like grey in the rear and black or yellow in the front.
That's interesting.

In what scenario do you run the yellow springs up front? They seem to be 16 lb/inch which is a lot lighter compared to grey and black(51.5 and 57lbs/inch). This is going by the serpent spring chart - http://www.serpent.com/product/160330/ http://serdaraytemiz.blogspot.com/20...ing-rates.html

Am I missing something here or are there actually 3 types of grey/black springs?


Update - I figured it out. There are 3 types of grey/black springs and two that are L23.

I will make sure I have the right ones... LOL

Here is the list of spring rates/types...


- Spring white L23 (2.3/13) (2) (#160300)
- Spring grey L23 (2.6/14.8) TC (2) (#160297)
- Spring yellow L23 (2.8/16) (2) (#160301)
- Spring black L23 (2.9/16.5) TC (2) (#160298)
- Spring orange L23 (3.4/19.5) (2) (#160302)
- Spring green L23 (3.5/19.9) TC (2) (#160299)
- Spring red L23 (4.1/23.5) (2) (#160303)
- Spring pink L23 (4.9/28) (2) (#160304)
- Spring blue L23 (5.8/33) (2) (#160305)
- Spring purple L23 (6.8/39) (2) (#160306)
- Spring green L23 (8/45.5) (2) (#160307)
- Spring grey L23 (9/51.5) (2) (#160308)
- Spring black L23 (10/57) (2) (#160309)


There are grey and black that are stiffer that are not TC versions.
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:08 PM   #2757
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how do you identify what degree caster blocks i have? I cant seem to locate any markings...Also are there any mods or plans to get the bumper attached to the bulkhead....seems very fragile and has the opportunity to snap the chassis...
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:42 PM   #2758
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Someone posted on here about getting Serpent to modify the front bumper to resemble a Xray so there is less likelihood of snapping the front of the chassis. I was looking at this and I think if a person made a fiberglass spacer that would use the existing top bumper mounts and cross in front of the bulkheads resting against it it would sure help to strengthen it and take the slight back flex that can happen with it the way it is.

I am going to make one of these, but not having much luck posting pics on here.
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how do you identify what degree caster blocks i have? I cant seem to locate any markings...Also are there any mods or plans to get the bumper attached to the bulkhead....seems very fragile and has the opportunity to snap the chassis...
See above about the bumper.

There are only 4* c-hubs available, so if you're running stock parts thats what you have. No marks for degree but L&R are marked.
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:51 PM   #2759
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Okay I am also having issues with the diffs seeping and slinging oil?
I have tried some silicone lube on all diff seals but doesn't seem to help..

Has anyone tried or done any testing with adding 2 additional small gears and another shaft in the diff? Just wandered as I picked one up used and that's what I found inside...

Any and all help is appreciated thanks to Martin and Johnny for all there help so far!!!!
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:49 AM   #2760
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Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
the kit comes with yellow springs for the rear and orange for the front. These work fine. Easy to drive. The suspension blocks for the rear are 3.0 and 0, and the front ones are 1.5 and 2.0 if I remember correctly.
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Originally Posted by FastHound View Post
What additional springs and blocks should I carry with me?
the kit comes with 1 and 2 front blocks not 1.5 and 2
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