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Old 01-23-2012, 06:14 AM   #2566
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Hi Martin, just wondering when you ran the original motor mount where you running the top plate middle screw? If not did you have any issues taking out the spur gear?

Thanks
sometimes i would run the middle screw if I wanted more steering.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:12 AM   #2567
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Default good stuff

thanks bcdk. good stuff
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:16 AM   #2568
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Default flexi

has anyone tried the flexi deck instead of taking out the middle screw. i tried stock parts with the middle screw removed and kept wearing the spur gear i dont have the one piece motor mount, and its the v1 kit. the car had tons of flex and traction with the screw removed though. it seems to me that the two screws that hold the top deck to the rear bulkhead can be removed and do almost the same as the center screw (almost). i'm running the two farthest back, and the two farthest forward on the rear section of the top deck.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:31 AM   #2569
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Default Spool cup

I did grind my spool cup so I can use the drive shaft blades with it. I tested it today and after 3 packs the blades are holding on fine. I m using Spec R blades BTW which is very durable. Let see how long will it last though, its 10.5t boosted and 2moro I ll test it with mod motor. All test was done with DCJ set.

Regarding spacers under the rear blocks, I thought adding spacers will decrease the traction and removing will get more traction. Lowering roll center= further the distance with CG= more roll=more weight is transfer to the tyre = more traction???? I m getting confuse too now
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:50 AM   #2570
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Default its confusing

I always get confused but this is the easiest explanation



By running a lower roll center, pins closer to the chassis, you will gain more roll in your chassis, which results in less use of the tire. By running a higher roll center, pins higher, you have a car that now drives flatter and places more of a load on the tire for traction. Generally speaking, a lowered roll center will have less traction where a higher roll center has more traction. You can easily see this with foam tires, a place where we never use high roll center since it will make the car traction roll due to the increased traction capabilities of the higher roll centers.

this is from a losi q and a with todd hodge. i alway get the roll center backwards so i reference the web to make sure.



but adding shims in the rear increases rear traction[/QUOTE]
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:57 AM   #2571
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Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
has anyone tried the flexi deck instead of taking out the middle screw. i tried stock parts with the middle screw removed and kept wearing the spur gear i dont have the one piece motor mount, and its the v1 kit. the car had tons of flex and traction with the screw removed though. it seems to me that the two screws that hold the top deck to the rear bulkhead can be removed and do almost the same as the center screw (almost). i'm running the two farthest back, and the two farthest forward on the rear section of the top deck.
Hi.

We use the new flex topdeck together with the standard two peace motormount. We have removed the middle screw. Nothing had happened so far (about 25-30 batteries). No extra wearing on the spurgear. Nothing - and that is with modifed on carpet. I've tighten the other screws extra, but done nothing else. As noticed - you have to check the spurgear and pinion, but I see it as a normal maintenance issue between every run.

We haven't tried to drive without any other screws removed in the topdeck.

As we started to drive the flex topdeck, we changed the suspension blocks in ff and fr to 1,5 both - no sweep but straight.

Yesterday we were praticing on a tight track, and for testing we changed the blocks once again to ff 2,0 and fr to 1,5 for better corner entering. We will Sunday next weekend have a race on the same track, and we will Saturday do some back-to-back test here to find the best solution.

Our final setup will follow later on Serpent homepage.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:36 AM   #2572
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I know everyone is very concerned with stripping the spur when you take out the top deck screw. What I did was take a long set screw and bottow it out on the motor mount hole with a little part of the set screw slightly proud on the top deck 1 -1.5mm.
This allows the car to flex in twist but not pull away from the spur when it "wraps" up from the torque of the motor.

I can take pics if you would like when I get home tonight.
Best regards,
James
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:39 AM   #2573
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Default wonderful idea

ill try it. post a quick picture if you get a moment.

thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesReilly View Post
I know everyone is very concerned with stripping the spur when you take out the top deck screw. What I did was take a long set screw and bottow it out on the motor mount hole with a little part of the set screw slightly proud on the top deck 1 -1.5mm.
This allows the car to flex in twist but not pull away from the spur when it "wraps" up from the torque of the motor.

I can take pics if you would like when I get home tonight.
Best regards,
James
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:34 PM   #2574
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so by removing screws in the front of the top deck and not the back will increase the flex in the front, will this give more traction, increase steering, or decrease traction, decrease steering, thanks
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:26 PM   #2575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
So i tried the one piece motor mount today and I have to say I prefer the original motor mount. I found the one piece unit caused the car to have some torque steer that was not there with the original motor mount.

Just seeing if anyone else noticed this?
I didn't really take note of this, but it probably does. I think its because all the motor plate screws don't line up in the middle of the chassis with the one piece as they do with the 2 pce.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zaraz View Post
thanks again, but even more confused, just for the rear, if i have no spacers, then add 0.5 mm spacer under the suspension mount, what will it do, increase traction or decrease traction in the rear, thanks
Its very confusing, all I can do is relay to you what my on track experience has told me. The lower I run the arm hinge pin, the more the car feels stuck. The more I raise the arm hinge pin, the looser the car feels...or freed up. The outer upper link spacers, again, the less I run on the outer the more the car feels stuck. The more spacers I run, the looser the car feels. If its right or wrong in "theory" I don't know, I just go by the seat of the pants feel. Your pants may feel different, lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
has anyone tried the flexi deck instead of taking out the middle screw. i tried stock parts with the middle screw removed and kept wearing the spur gear i dont have the one piece motor mount, and its the v1 kit. the car had tons of flex and traction with the screw removed though. it seems to me that the two screws that hold the top deck to the rear bulkhead can be removed and do almost the same as the center screw (almost). i'm running the two farthest back, and the two farthest forward on the rear section of the top deck.
There are a couple of setups that Martin used where he had the farthest screws on both ends removed. I think his and your idea are very feasible. I wish the setup sheet gave us the option to select which screws are in and out. At least the one I use doesn't give me that option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesReilly View Post
I know everyone is very concerned with stripping the spur when you take out the top deck screw. What I did was take a long set screw and bottow it out on the motor mount hole with a little part of the set screw slightly proud on the top deck 1 -1.5mm.
This allows the car to flex in twist but not pull away from the spur when it "wraps" up from the torque of the motor.

I can take pics if you would like when I get home tonight.
Best regards,
James
I flexed the car by hand in every conceivable direction to try and figure out how the gears get mashed and near as I can tell its not so much forward and back as its up and down. That said your fix is a awesome idea. I thought about taking this one step further, and rather than when a person cuts the top deck. Instead of taken all that material out, doing a fine cut the length of the piece where the hole is. This way using your setscrew idea you can have a super flexi upper deck, and not take the spur out. If you want to take the flex out you could use a little larger flat washer and nut it down. If you want a little flex loosen the nut off, this would give a wide variety of flex settings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zaraz View Post
so by removing screws in the front of the top deck and not the back will increase the flex in the front, will this give more traction, increase steering, or decrease traction, decrease steering, thanks
If you take 2 screws out of the front you will get more traction and more steering. You do have to remember that it will come to a point that the tires just won't grip anymore if you put too much "traction" into one end of the car or the other.
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:53 PM   #2576
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Originally Posted by zaraz View Post
so by removing screws in the front of the top deck and not the back will increase the flex in the front, will this give more traction, increase steering, or decrease traction, decrease steering, thanks
From my testing using two or four screws up front did not seem to make much of a difference, but if anything it seemed to make the car push, just like it does when I run the more flexible upper deck. This seems to be different from Johnny's experience...so...the best thing to do is try it yourself and see. I don't think you will notice much of a difference....which is maybe why Johnny and I seem to have a different impression as to what it does.
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:56 PM   #2577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesReilly View Post
I know everyone is very concerned with stripping the spur when you take out the top deck screw. What I did was take a long set screw and bottow it out on the motor mount hole with a little part of the set screw slightly proud on the top deck 1 -1.5mm.
This allows the car to flex in twist but not pull away from the spur when it "wraps" up from the torque of the motor.

I can take pics if you would like when I get home tonight.
Best regards,
James
interesting idea James

I have not noticed too much where on the spur when I run no screw, but there is some. I use 48 pitch gears, which helps a lot.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:35 PM   #2578
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Default MAYBE?

I love the screw idea. im going to mess with it wed. i thought maybe its also a tuning option to use o-rings under the head of the screw to put a very minor amount of tension on the deck. in hind sight, a buddy of mine snapped his flexy deck on is xray, he did the exact same thing with the screw and orings on the replacement. i have no idea why i didnt catch it. little slow on the uptake i guess.



martin, i just bought your setup app. i dont always take my laptop to the track and its nice to have an app like yours to fall back on. thanks for being smart.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
interesting idea James

I have not noticed too much where on the spur when I run no screw, but there is some. I use 48 pitch gears, which helps a lot.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:46 PM   #2579
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Here you go guys.

I do really want to test this back to back with the one piece mount.

But I was looking and there is a ton of different mount option between the two mounts. I think I could spend a whole day testing them. I'll try to take pics of all the different ways you can bolt them together.

Stay Tuned. LOL
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:56 AM   #2580
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Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
I love the screw idea. im going to mess with it wed. i thought maybe its also a tuning option to use o-rings under the head of the screw to put a very minor amount of tension on the deck. in hind sight, a buddy of mine snapped his flexy deck on is xray, he did the exact same thing with the screw and orings on the replacement. i have no idea why i didnt catch it. little slow on the uptake i guess.



martin, i just bought your setup app. i dont always take my laptop to the track and its nice to have an app like yours to fall back on. thanks for being smart.
I am glad you like my app...my wife will disagree with you about me being smart

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesReilly View Post
Here you go guys.

I do really want to test this back to back with the one piece mount.

But I was looking and there is a ton of different mount option between the two mounts. I think I could spend a whole day testing them. I'll try to take pics of all the different ways you can bolt them together.

Stay Tuned. LOL
Yeah...i know what you mean about the different mount options. I tried the one piece with just the single center chassis mounting point that comes with the kit, and I also tried combining the single plate with the insider portion of the standard kit plate, so that there are two screws holding the center portion to the chassis. from my testing, the car seemed to pull to the right more with the two screw setup than the one screw setup. And as said in a previous post, the single piece mount pulled to the right where the kit motor mount did not. Of course there could have been something else going on with my cars, but both cars experienced the same behavior.
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