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Old 01-22-2012, 09:56 AM   #2551
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Anybody tried to grind up the spool steel cup slot so it can accept the drive shaft cushion? Mine's already worn out a bit. Wonder what effect it would do with the big gap? But i still consider the s411 steel cup among the most durable cup, i ve been using it for 3 months now.
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Old 01-22-2012, 03:17 PM   #2552
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Default NOT SURE.

MINE ARE WORN. IM GOING TO TRY THE DELRIN CUPS WITH SOME NEW AXLES. I DONT NOTICE ANY DIFFERENCE IN THE WAY THE CAR DRIVES WITH THEM BEING WORN. I WILL REPLACE THE PARTS BEFORE IT COSTS ME THE MAIN. MY NEXT SET OF METAL OUTDRIVES WILL BE MILLED TO ACCEPT THE DRIVE SHAFT BLADES.




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Anybody tried to grind up the spool steel cup slot so it can accept the drive shaft cushion? Mine's already worn out a bit. Wonder what effect it would do with the big gap? But i still consider the s411 steel cup among the most durable cup, i ve been using it for 3 months now.
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Old 01-22-2012, 07:26 PM   #2553
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Default NEW BULKHEAD

CAN SERPENT PLEASE RELEASE A NEW FRONT BULKHEAD THAT IS SIMILAR TO THE XRAY ONE IN THE LINK I PROVIDED.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...khead-Orange-1

ON THE XRAY, THE UPPER BUMPER SUPPORT RESTS ON THE BULKHEAD. THEREFORE ELIMINATING MY EXTREMELY FAST SERPENT FROM BREAKING MY 2MM CHASSIS WHEN I CANT DRIVE AND HIT A WALL. MY FAULT.....I KNOW...

NO, SERIOUSLY, THE 2MM CHASSIS IS WEAK IN THE FRONT AND THE BUMPER PUTS A TON OF STRESS ON THE CHASSIS RIGHT BEHIND THE THE FRONT/ FRONT ROLL CENTER PLATE. IF WE HAD THE OPTION BULKHEAD, THE TOP OF THE BUMPER WOULD BE SUPPORTED BY THE BULKHEAD AND HOPEFULLY ELIMINATE CRACKING AND BREAKING.


ANYONE ELSE NOTICE THIS? LOOK AT THE BUMPER ON A XRAY 2011 NEXT TIME AT THE TRACK. ANY IDEAS TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING? I CAN SHOW PICS OF WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT.


I LOVE MY 411. I WOULDNT GO BACK, BUT I THINK THIS IS A GOOD IMPROVEMENT IF WE CAN GET IT MADE.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:39 PM   #2554
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Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
MINE ARE WORN. IM GOING TO TRY THE DELRIN CUPS WITH SOME NEW AXLES. I DONT NOTICE ANY DIFFERENCE IN THE WAY THE CAR DRIVES WITH THEM BEING WORN. I WILL REPLACE THE PARTS BEFORE IT COSTS ME THE MAIN. MY NEXT SET OF METAL OUTDRIVES WILL BE MILLED TO ACCEPT THE DRIVE SHAFT BLADES.
Don't run the delrin on carpet! I did, and broke 3 in one race night just lightly tagging boards and corners. Just sayin...
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:50 PM   #2555
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Default PCAR951

HOW DID THEY BREAK? I GUESS IM WONDERING IF THEY ARE MADE WITH CHEAP PLASTIC? I KNOW THEY XRAY2011 I HAD USED THE DELRIN OUTDRIVES IN THE SPOOL. I NEVER BROKE ONE OF THOSE WHEN I HAD THE CAR, AND I HATE COMPARING IT TO THE XRAY BUT THATS THE NEXT CLOSEST RIVAL TO THE SERPENT.

DID YOURS BREAK AT THE BEARING OR ELSEWHERE?

GOOD INPUT, THANKS PCAR 951. I AM STILL INTERESTED IN HAVING THE METAL OUTDRIVES MACHINED TO ACCEPT THE DRIVESHAFT BLADES.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:58 PM   #2556
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I was looking at various set up sheets for the s411, in the manual it says to add 1mm spacers under the suspension mounts, and thats what they give you in the kit, but all the setup sheets show a 0.5mm spacer under the suspension mounts, what does having spacers under the suspension mounts do, so for instance I start with no suspension mount spacers, then add 0.5mm spacer under the rear suspension blocks, what does it do, if it raises the roll center is that more grip (more traction ) at the rear or less grip, thanks
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:02 PM   #2557
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Default TAKE A PEEK AT THIS

http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/roll-center.html





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I was looking at various set up sheets for the s411, in the manual it says to add 1mm spacers under the suspension mounts, and thats what they give you in the kit, but all the setup sheets show a 0.5mm spacer under the suspension mounts, what does having spacers under the suspension mounts do, so for instance I start with no suspension mount spacers, then add 0.5mm spacer under the rear suspension blocks, what does it do, if it raises the roll center is that more grip (more traction ) at the rear or less grip, thanks
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:16 PM   #2558
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thanks but my english is not so good so for me to understand most f this is hard, if someone can explain ineasy terms, adding spacers under the suspension mounts more traction or less traction, on this car thanks
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:26 PM   #2559
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Default this better?

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Originally Posted by zaraz View Post
thanks but my english is not so good so for me to understand most f this is hard, if someone can explain ineasy terms, adding spacers under the suspension mounts more traction or less traction, on this car thanks


Rear roll center Effect
Lower More on-throttle grip.
More weight transfer at rear of car.
Less grip under braking.
Use to avoid traction rolling at corner entry
(increases rear grip).
Use under low traction conditions.
Increases traction, reduces rear tire wear.



Higher Less on-throttle steering.
Less weight transfer at front of car.
Car is more responsive.
Use in high grip conditions to avoid traction rolling.
Use on tracks with quick direction changes (chic
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:35 PM   #2560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
HOW DID THEY BREAK? I GUESS IM WONDERING IF THEY ARE MADE WITH CHEAP PLASTIC? I KNOW THEY XRAY2011 I HAD USED THE DELRIN OUTDRIVES IN THE SPOOL. I NEVER BROKE ONE OF THOSE WHEN I HAD THE CAR, AND I HATE COMPARING IT TO THE XRAY BUT THATS THE NEXT CLOSEST RIVAL TO THE SERPENT.

DID YOURS BREAK AT THE BEARING OR ELSEWHERE?

GOOD INPUT, THANKS PCAR 951. I AM STILL INTERESTED IN HAVING THE METAL OUTDRIVES MACHINED TO ACCEPT THE DRIVESHAFT BLADES.
They broke right at the outdrive bearing. Not saying they're poorly made or anything, I just don't think carpet racing is the right application for them and others have said the same on this thread.

Now I'm using putty diffs, they don't feel as good as a spool but, no bent shafts or broken blades.
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:39 PM   #2561
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Default cool

good to know. my car is dialed on low traction carpet, i was just gonna try them, thanks.

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Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
They broke right at the outdrive bearing. Not saying they're poorly made or anything, I just don't think carpet racing is the right application for them and others have said the same on this thread.

Now I'm using putty diffs, they don't feel as good as a spool but, no bent shafts or broken blades.
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:41 PM   #2562
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thanks again, but even more confused, just for the rear, if i have no spacers, then add 0.5 mm spacer under the suspension mount, what will it do, increase traction or decrease traction in the rear, thanks
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:46 PM   #2563
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Default ok.

from my understanding, adding increases and removing decreases.

By running a lower roll center, pins closer to the chassis, you will gain more roll in your chassis, which results in less use of the tire. By running a higher roll center, pins higher, you have a car that now drives flatter and places more of a load on the tire for traction. Generally speaking, a lower roll center will have less traction where a higher roll center has more traction. You can easily see this with foam tires, a place where we never use high roll center since it will make the car traction roll due to the increased traction capabilities of the higher roll centers.

this is from a losi q and a with todd hodge. i alway get the roll center backwards so i reference the web to make sure.



but adding shims in the rear increases rear traction






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Originally Posted by zaraz View Post
thanks again, but even more confused, just for the rear, if i have no spacers, then add 0.5 mm spacer under the suspension mount, what will it do, increase traction or decrease traction in the rear, thanks
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:56 PM   #2564
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Default can you translate in your language?

the first website i posted as a reply, can you right click and translate that web page? the setups your looking at are most likely for high traction where the driver needs to remove traction to prevent traction rolling. sometimes when traction is too high you can loose valuable time by scrubbing speed. so sometimes less traction is faster.



Quote:
Originally Posted by zaraz View Post
thanks again, but even more confused, just for the rear, if i have no spacers, then add 0.5 mm spacer under the suspension mount, what will it do, increase traction or decrease traction in the rear, thanks
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:29 AM   #2565
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Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
HOW DID THEY BREAK? I GUESS IM WONDERING IF THEY ARE MADE WITH CHEAP PLASTIC? I KNOW THEY XRAY2011 I HAD USED THE DELRIN OUTDRIVES IN THE SPOOL. I NEVER BROKE ONE OF THOSE WHEN I HAD THE CAR, AND I HATE COMPARING IT TO THE XRAY BUT THATS THE NEXT CLOSEST RIVAL TO THE SERPENT.

DID YOURS BREAK AT THE BEARING OR ELSEWHERE?

GOOD INPUT, THANKS PCAR 951. I AM STILL INTERESTED IN HAVING THE METAL OUTDRIVES MACHINED TO ACCEPT THE DRIVESHAFT BLADES.

Hi.

The delrin outdrives aren't designed for carpet racing. Not durable enough. On carpet the force on the outdrives is too high, and only a smaller crash can be enough to brake the delrin outdrives. They are only for tarmac racing. I had the same issue, and as I wrote to Serpent I got this answer.

I don't think it will work with blades. The force is simply too high on the spool outdrives.

To avoid the wear of the steel outdrives, you can use a small amount of black grease. I have put a small shrinking foil over the outdrives. Then I can put the black grease into the outdrives and it will not fligh out. It works very well, and I still have no wear after 5 months running modified on carpet all the time. In the start with standard axles - now with the DJC axles.

There was a question about the middle screw in the topdeck into the motormount - does it work or does it wear the spurgear? On our car we use the standard two peace motormount, and lately we drive the car without the middle screw. As written, we drive modified on carpet, and we have no extra wear on the spurgear. Not broken anything - simply nothing. You have to check the distance between spurgear and pinion, but if you tighten the screws well, this should not give you any problem. That is our experience.

We have no problems with the rear, that it is loose. I think, as the car has so a huge amount of front bite and steering, many tries to drive it faster as it is technical possible.

Anyway - If you have built the car according to the manual, you can change the axle setup in the rear. Put 4 mm on the hinge pin in front and 2 mm in the rear = lenghten the car (axle width). Or you could try to use the the outer hole in the rear uprights. Both things will get the rear more stable - but also decrease the rotation. We ourselves use 3/3 or 4/2 mm (depends on the track - tight or open) on the hingepin and the inner hole on the uprights.

Actually the 4/2 mm mount on the hingepin is the correct standard mounting. The 2/4 mm in the manual is a small fault in the manual.
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