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Old 01-04-2012, 08:24 AM   #2386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rouge711 View Post
Hello Martin!
It is a pleasure if not an honor answering you. Congrats for the app, really important tool!!!
About S411, i did a little test about DJC and what i felt is just the same you wrote. Can't declare best lap times with them but the feeling is that the car is more consistent entering corners and mid corsers. I don't like use DJC when there is too much grip on carpet because front end become difficult to drive.
But, I can add that i've tried them with front diff on carpet and they are better than standard univ even if grip is hight.
Bye!
Thanks for the comments about my app

I will have to do some more testing to see what I like the most. I do like the smoother feeling the djc gives me. Cheers.
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Old 01-04-2012, 04:34 PM   #2387
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As mentioned earlier in the thread I got some BD5 dcj from spec r because I line the design of the way the pins are secured if you do get some and you want to keep the same bearings there are a few things you need to do
1. Get 2 .1mm shims to slide down the shaft so it creates a shoulder so the inner bearing does not come out.the ones you use to shim nitro clutch bells
2. The 2 bearings that come with them pull them apart the inner race is the perfect spacer to make it 6 mm as the standard are stepped
3. Put it together you may need to trim the end of the shaft it protrudes out a bit to much.
My thoughts they seem okay they are half the price almost and fit very good if I had my choice again would I get them maybe but I can not compare the 2 I'm sure the serpent ones are very good and no messing about you still need to reem the up rite out a little
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:37 AM   #2388
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You guys using anything spec R should be ashamed to put such crap on your cars
I would rather try and mcguyver some drive shafts with twigs, cotton and glue than use spec r
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Last edited by Benzaah; 01-05-2012 at 12:53 AM.
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:58 AM   #2389
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I take your not a fan of spec r

MMM it is my first spec r to my last also, tested today they wen great I like them steering felt different for sure
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:53 PM   #2390
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IMO, DCJ/ECS drive shafts are all but useless. Serpent's original drive shafts are among the smoothest I've had. Change the dross pins for keyed pins and they're just fine, spool diff whatever. I've always had reliability issues with double joint shafts. One DNF kinda kills the .02 advantage for me...Just sayin.
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:26 PM   #2391
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Guys i bought a second hand 411 the other day, and the previous owner was running the TC6 drive shaft blades, they seem to fit great, BUT with no shock on the arm, as the arm travels upwards the blades bottom out on the outdrive, only allowing the arm to move about 3mm up.
I always run the standard blades on my other car and there are no binding issues at all, if any one else is running TC6 blades have a close look at arm up travel, as it will cause the car to handle like crap, all you need to do is remove the rear shock and move the arm up as a test, hope this helps a few people.

Rhys
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:30 PM   #2392
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I Tried the 3mm Countersink method too get rid off the steering play but this did cause binding issue , did it not do that for anyone else?

For me a 4mm .02 shim was good. Maybe a 3.5 shim would been better , it feelt like the 4X0.2 was a little big and did bind little
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:37 PM   #2393
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Originally Posted by MarcusEngdahl View Post
I Tried the 3mm Countersink method too get rid off the steering play but this did cause binding issue , did it not do that for anyone else?

For me a 4mm .02 shim was good. Maybe a 3.5 shim would been better , it feelt like the 4X0.2 was a little big and did bind little
Please enlighten on what the 3mm cs method is?

After several versions of various DCJ/ECS, I have gone back to the stock setup as well. With a simple reduction of steering rate any chatter issues on the track are gone. Just took a while to get used to it, but this also helped with a slight oversteer on exit problem I was having in one corner.

I also did a grinding compound break in on my gear diff. I think the grinding compound is slightly too abrasive so either a fine or some sort of polishing paste is probably better to use. BUT I also replaced the big shim behind the larger gears, between the gear and o-ring, the diff is extremely smooth now. Virtually no drag or gear click. You can spin one wheel and it will turn for a couple seconds, even better than a loosened off ball diff. And it doesn't leak too boot.
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:06 PM   #2394
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Please enlighten on what the 3mm cs method is?
Serpent S411

Scrool down too pictures.
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:14 PM   #2395
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Originally Posted by MarcusEngdahl View Post
Serpent S411

Scrool down too pictures.
Yes that looks nice but isn't the issue, the rack is what keeps working its way up.

See this for a fix. Page 155, post #2325.
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:20 PM   #2396
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Yes that looks nice but isn't the issue, the rack is what keeps working its way up.

See this for a fix. Page 155, post #2325.
I will have a look at it.
Tnx
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:51 PM   #2397
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Anyone know where I can purchase the Serpent 48P 69T & 75T spur gears. Part #120015 & #120017. Any help would be great. Thanks
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Old 01-06-2012, 05:28 PM   #2398
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i got mine from RC Market they had all the sizes there
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:18 PM   #2399
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Anyone know where I can purchase the Serpent 48P 69T & 75T spur gears. Part #120015 & #120017. Any help would be great. Thanks
where are you located ?
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:35 PM   #2400
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where are you located ?
I am in Huron, South Dakota
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