16LikesSerpent S411
12-22-2011, 11:45 AM
#2176
S411LE parts arrived , if sold out few days can back instock again !
12-22-2011, 01:12 PM
#2177
my LE kit should be here tomorrow so I get all weekend to build it.
12-22-2011, 01:22 PM
#2178
Tech Regular
Martin Crisp, if you are looking for more flex I would try running the optional motor mount or the new flex upper deck. You could also try cutting the rear cross section on the stock upper deck. I've tried all of these things and found that a combo of the optional motor mount with the cut upper deck works best in low bite situations (on pavement). Have not tried this on carpet yet. Question, what thickness chassis did you get (bottom plate)?
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ng-car-p-22648
If there is a 2.5 mm chassisplate in the kit I then should buy me the 2.25 mm also?
Is the topdeck in this kit the 2 mm topdeck? Or the flex 2 mm topdeck?
If it is the 2 mm topdeck, should I buy the flex 2 mm topdeck? For racing on asphalt/tarmac. Or is the kit 2 mm good enough (again if that's the one that is in the kit).
http://www.serpent.com/product/401451/
Is this the motor mount you guys are talking about? If so then I don't understand. Why? Because you all are talking about more flex. But this mount reduces flex. How does that add up? Or am I way off base here.......?
And what about the 2 mm chassisplate?
http://www.serpent.com/product/401432/
As to:"we never used that screw through the upper deck into the motor mount ... "
- which upper deck? The kit version of the flex version?
- which motor mount? The kit version or the one piece(?) version?
Last edited by Kensei; 12-22-2011 at 02:03 PM.
12-22-2011, 05:19 PM
#2179
Tech Master
iTrader: (68)
will someone please explain how thicker or thinner diff fluid effects the car. This car and my last one were loose in the rear no matter the change made to the car. The diff fluid is the only thing I didn't change. So I am thinking thinner will allow the diff to work quicker and not be so loose. Any ideas? Thanks
12-22-2011, 05:23 PM
#2180
Super Moderator
iTrader: (63)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: a very small town in wisconsin that is in the middle of absolutely no where
Posts: 5,155
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
will someone please explain how thicker or thinner diff fluid effects the car. This car and my last one were loose in the rear no matter the change made to the car. The diff fluid is the only thing I didn't change. So I am thinking thinner will allow the diff to work quicker and not be so loose. Any ideas? Thanks
• Increases steering into corner
Thicker
• Decreases rear traction while cornering
• Reduces wheelspin
what is your current setup?? what diff oil are you using? jeremy
12-22-2011, 05:23 PM
#2181
Kensei, I purchased my kit from RCMarket and it had a 2mm upper deck with a 2.25mm lower chassis. From what I understand this was a special run of kits put together by the owner of RCMarket (someone correct me if this is wrong). In the normal kit I think the upper deck is 2mm and the bottom chassis is 2.5mm. Not knowing the level of traction at your track I would say try the car stock first and go from there. At most I would say get the 2.5mm top deck as a tuning option. The motor mount in your post is the one we are talking about. When I ran this motor mount back to back with the stock mount I felt like the car was more planted in the rear and more consistent in the corners. I know what is says on the Serpent site but this is just what I felt...??? Hope this helps...
12-22-2011, 05:31 PM
#2182
Has anybody tried the Xceed plastic diff gear set in the s411 gear diff? I built a diff up with these gears thinking I could get the diff smoother. Doesn't feel any better than the stock diff..
...wondering if I did something wrong
Also, seems like I have to use a shorted cvd bone with the Xceed diff outdrives...?
...wondering if I did something wrong Also, seems like I have to use a shorted cvd bone with the Xceed diff outdrives...?
12-22-2011, 06:11 PM
#2184
Super Moderator
iTrader: (63)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: a very small town in wisconsin that is in the middle of absolutely no where
Posts: 5,155
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
12-22-2011, 06:22 PM
#2186
Super Moderator
iTrader: (63)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: a very small town in wisconsin that is in the middle of absolutely no where
Posts: 5,155
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
ok.. got it.. martin will be working on a mod setup.. i will be running mod on jan 1st.. in a few weeks there should be some more setups to look at and more feedback..
12-22-2011, 08:47 PM
#2187
will someone please explain how thicker or thinner diff fluid effects the car. This car and my last one were loose in the rear no matter the change made to the car. The diff fluid is the only thing I didn't change. So I am thinking thinner will allow the diff to work quicker and not be so loose. Any ideas? Thanks
From the words of Paul Lemiux.
"Hi. Lately i have found that rear diff fluid is best to be matched to the amount of traction that the track has. If their is lots of bite and you are running thin fluid i feel like the car is very hard to drive and can go off line easily. if their is very low bite and you are running too thick of fluid the car will be very loose coming off the corner and will never have consistent rear traction.
My rule of thumb now is.
low traction: 500
med traction 1000
high traction 2000
super high traction 3000.
Thanks!"
I have to admit, my setup I can can turn a single and faster lap than Jeffs setup, but its a total handful to wheel around and out track is small and very strange traction. Jeffs setup is by far much easier to drive and runs more consistent. Nice setup Jeff
12-22-2011, 08:50 PM
#2188
All the kits come with the 2.25 chassis and the 2mm top deck now. The chassis is easy to identify it doesn't have the cut outs on the outside for a lipo with tabs.
The gear diff is not as smooth or as "free" out of the box as some of the others are. I suspect that in its original use, the 733, a little notchyness goes away very quickly with the prolonged run time of gas qualifiers and mains.
However I have figured out a couple tricks to free up the diff quicker.
1. Assembly the diff without orings put some very fine lapping compound (found at automotive stores for valve lapping) inside this will remove any of the high spots on the gears. If you have a worn out dogbone you can make a little drive for a drill OR if you have a drill press you can lightly clamp one out drive in the chuck and hold the case to run the gears in. Be careful, you need your fingers.
Run until smooth. Clean out very well.
* Do not get any lapping compound on the out drive shaft.
2. The X-ring is a little tight again in the gas car I think that is best. In electric I think it is a little too much drag as the X-ring has double the friction surfaces. I trimmed and of the legs of the X down to decrease the compression on the X-ring. This felt much better, time will tell if it leaks sooner but I'm also looking for a O-ring to try as well. One of my teammates gets his car next week, when we build his car I'll take some pictures and show you guys.
That all equals a really smooth diff very quickly without waiting for it to break-in.
Suspension Blocks, I really like to know the actual width of the blocks so I measured the center to centers so I'll share that too.
0 = 41mm
1 = 42.5mm
1.5 = 43.25mm
2 = 44mm
2.5 = 44.75mm
3 = 45.5mm
3.5 = 46.25mm
Best regards,
James
The gear diff is not as smooth or as "free" out of the box as some of the others are. I suspect that in its original use, the 733, a little notchyness goes away very quickly with the prolonged run time of gas qualifiers and mains.
However I have figured out a couple tricks to free up the diff quicker.
1. Assembly the diff without orings put some very fine lapping compound (found at automotive stores for valve lapping) inside this will remove any of the high spots on the gears. If you have a worn out dogbone you can make a little drive for a drill OR if you have a drill press you can lightly clamp one out drive in the chuck and hold the case to run the gears in. Be careful, you need your fingers.
Run until smooth. Clean out very well. * Do not get any lapping compound on the out drive shaft.
2. The X-ring is a little tight again in the gas car I think that is best. In electric I think it is a little too much drag as the X-ring has double the friction surfaces. I trimmed and of the legs of the X down to decrease the compression on the X-ring. This felt much better, time will tell if it leaks sooner but I'm also looking for a O-ring to try as well. One of my teammates gets his car next week, when we build his car I'll take some pictures and show you guys.
That all equals a really smooth diff very quickly without waiting for it to break-in.
Suspension Blocks, I really like to know the actual width of the blocks so I measured the center to centers so I'll share that too.
0 = 41mm
1 = 42.5mm
1.5 = 43.25mm
2 = 44mm
2.5 = 44.75mm
3 = 45.5mm
3.5 = 46.25mm
Best regards,
James
12-22-2011, 09:49 PM
#2189
All the kits come with the 2.25 chassis and the 2mm top deck now. The chassis is easy to identify it doesn't have the cut outs on the outside for a lipo with tabs.
The gear diff is not as smooth or as "free" out of the box as some of the others are. I suspect that in its original use, the 733, a little notchyness goes away very quickly with the prolonged run time of gas qualifiers and mains.
However I have figured out a couple tricks to free up the diff quicker.
1. Assembly the diff without orings put some very fine lapping compound (found at automotive stores for valve lapping) inside this will remove any of the high spots on the gears. If you have a worn out dogbone you can make a little drive for a drill OR if you have a drill press you can lightly clamp one out drive in the chuck and hold the case to run the gears in. Be careful, you need your fingers. Run until smooth. Clean out very well.
* Do not get any lapping compound on the out drive shaft.
2. The X-ring is a little tight again in the gas car I think that is best. In electric I think it is a little too much drag as the X-ring has double the friction surfaces. I trimmed and of the legs of the X down to decrease the compression on the X-ring. This felt much better, time will tell if it leaks sooner but I'm also looking for a O-ring to try as well. One of my teammates gets his car next week, when we build his car I'll take some pictures and show you guys.
That all equals a really smooth diff very quickly without waiting for it to break-in.
Suspension Blocks, I really like to know the actual width of the blocks so I measured the center to centers so I'll share that too.
0 = 41mm
1 = 42.5mm
1.5 = 43.25mm
2 = 44mm
2.5 = 44.75mm
3 = 45.5mm
3.5 = 46.25mm
Best regards,
James
The gear diff is not as smooth or as "free" out of the box as some of the others are. I suspect that in its original use, the 733, a little notchyness goes away very quickly with the prolonged run time of gas qualifiers and mains.
However I have figured out a couple tricks to free up the diff quicker.
1. Assembly the diff without orings put some very fine lapping compound (found at automotive stores for valve lapping) inside this will remove any of the high spots on the gears. If you have a worn out dogbone you can make a little drive for a drill OR if you have a drill press you can lightly clamp one out drive in the chuck and hold the case to run the gears in. Be careful, you need your fingers.
Run until smooth. Clean out very well. * Do not get any lapping compound on the out drive shaft.
2. The X-ring is a little tight again in the gas car I think that is best. In electric I think it is a little too much drag as the X-ring has double the friction surfaces. I trimmed and of the legs of the X down to decrease the compression on the X-ring. This felt much better, time will tell if it leaks sooner but I'm also looking for a O-ring to try as well. One of my teammates gets his car next week, when we build his car I'll take some pictures and show you guys.
That all equals a really smooth diff very quickly without waiting for it to break-in.
Suspension Blocks, I really like to know the actual width of the blocks so I measured the center to centers so I'll share that too.
0 = 41mm
1 = 42.5mm
1.5 = 43.25mm
2 = 44mm
2.5 = 44.75mm
3 = 45.5mm
3.5 = 46.25mm
Best regards,
James
Steve
12-22-2011, 10:51 PM
#2190
LOL... like I said, it sure is good to have James on the team...
-DC-
-DC-