R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-05-2011, 01:28 PM   #1966
Tech Apprentice
 
Jinjiro7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Oshawa, ON, Canada
Posts: 57
Default

I use a kimbrough servo saver, so I mount with tape plus the inner servo post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter View Post
How are most people mounting the servo ? With tape, or the included mounting bracket ?
__________________
Ryan
-----------------------
* Serpent S411 * M11x *
www.drcrc.ca
www.fastcats.ca
Jinjiro7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 01:29 PM   #1967
Tech Apprentice
 
Jinjiro7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Oshawa, ON, Canada
Posts: 57
Default

Yes AE 106/64p spur fits

Quote:
Originally Posted by todb View Post
Thank you for the help. I haven't taken the time to look. Do the tc6 spur come in 64p cuz thatts all I run. again thank you
__________________
Ryan
-----------------------
* Serpent S411 * M11x *
www.drcrc.ca
www.fastcats.ca
Jinjiro7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 02:02 PM   #1968
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 53
Default

Can anyone tell me why I keep losing my front Left wheel during a race? I'm not a newbie but have to post this as I am out of ideas. I have run this car for 5 meetings now and it has happened loads of times.

I use serrated wheel nuts - I have changed the Driveshafts, it happens on new wheels or old and have tried several wheel nuts. Totally out of ideas. I even got someone else to tighten them to prove that I am doing them up tight enough and it still fell off !

This has never happened to me before in all the cars I have owned.
Yesterday I lost the Front Left in 3 out of 4 qualifying rounds - total disaster

Thanks
JamieV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 02:04 PM   #1969
Tech Elite
 
LOW ET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: cleveland, ohio
Posts: 2,485
Trader Rating: 88 (100%+)
Default

is the wheel hex drive pin still in the axle?
LOW ET is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 02:08 PM   #1970
Tech Master
 
BAD007SUZUKI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NILES, MI
Posts: 1,008
Trader Rating: 93 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to BAD007SUZUKI
Default SORRY, MAYBE THIS HAS BEEN COVERED

CAN PATTO OR ANYONE ELSE ANSWER THIS:

WHY ON ALL THE TOP 6 SETUPS I DOWNLOADED (FOR CARPET) AND PRINTED AND COMPARED, ARE FISCHER, NEILSEN, OLSEN, AND BOTZENHART RUNNING LARGE MM SHIMS ON THE INSIDE UPPER CAMBER LINKS. (ON THE UPPER CLAMPS). THIS WOULD REMOVE CAMBER RISE FROM THE CAR, RIGHT? SO AS THE CAR CORNERS AND WITH TRACTION, THE FULCRUM OF THE CAR/CAMBERLINK FORCES THE TIRES TO LOOSE TRACTION?

AM I THINKING ABOUT THIS CORRECTLY? OR BASSACKWARDS...........

IM RUNNING 1MM REAR INSIDE CAMBER LINK AND 2MM INSIDE FRONT CAMBER LINK SHIMS. THE REAR HUMBS HAVE 3MM AND THE FRONT CHUBS HAVE NOTHING. MY CAMBERLINKS ARE ANGLED DOWN TOWARD THE CENTER OF THE CAR GIVING IT HUGE CAMBER RISE. MY TIRES "CHIRP" AROUND CORNERS BUT IF I DRIVE IT OUT OF THE GROOVE OR TOO HARD ON THROTTLE, ITS A BEAST TO CONTROL.


WOULD CHANGING MY SHIMS HELP THIS?

I CAN SNAP PICS TO BETTER ILLUSTRATE.....
__________________
R/C Fun Park 12990 SR23 Granger, Indiana 46530
BAD007SUZUKI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 02:09 PM   #1971
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 53
Default

Yes - It is in and in tact.
JamieV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 02:14 PM   #1972
Tech Master
 
BAD007SUZUKI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NILES, MI
Posts: 1,008
Trader Rating: 93 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to BAD007SUZUKI
Default

I HAVE NOT HAD THAT ISSUE. I HAVE SEEN IT ON MY OLD XRAY MANY MOONS AGO. LOCKTIGHT SOLVED THE ISSUE. IT WAS JUST WORN NYLON ON THE NUT. I USE "LOCKTIGHT RETAINING COMPOUND" ON MY NUTS. ITS GREEN AND EASY TO REMOVE THE SERATED NUTS. I DONT EVEN TIGHTEN MY NUTS DOWN AS MUCH AS SOME OTHER GUYS DO. I HATE THAT THE SERATED EDGES EAT THE RIMS UP. JUST SNUG AND GO.

HAVE YOU SWITCHED AXLES FROM SIDE TO SIDE BASED OFF THE WAY THE THREADS SPIN. I DO NOT THINK IT SHOULD MATTER BUT ITS A THOUGHT./



Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieV View Post
Can anyone tell me why I keep losing my front Left wheel during a race? I'm not a newbie but have to post this as I am out of ideas. I have run this car for 5 meetings now and it has happened loads of times.

I use serrated wheel nuts - I have changed the Driveshafts, it happens on new wheels or old and have tried several wheel nuts. Totally out of ideas. I even got someone else to tighten them to prove that I am doing them up tight enough and it still fell off !

This has never happened to me before in all the cars I have owned.
Yesterday I lost the Front Left in 3 out of 4 qualifying rounds - total disaster

Thanks
__________________
R/C Fun Park 12990 SR23 Granger, Indiana 46530
BAD007SUZUKI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 02:32 PM   #1973
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 53
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
I HAVE NOT HAD THAT ISSUE. I HAVE SEEN IT ON MY OLD XRAY MANY MOONS AGO. LOCKTIGHT SOLVED THE ISSUE. IT WAS JUST WORN NYLON ON THE NUT. I USE "LOCKTIGHT RETAINING COMPOUND" ON MY NUTS. ITS GREEN AND EASY TO REMOVE THE SERATED NUTS. I DONT EVEN TIGHTEN MY NUTS DOWN AS MUCH AS SOME OTHER GUYS DO. I HATE THAT THE SERATED EDGES EAT THE RIMS UP. JUST SNUG AND GO.

HAVE YOU SWITCHED AXLES FROM SIDE TO SIDE BASED OFF THE WAY THE THREADS SPIN. I DO NOT THINK IT SHOULD MATTER BUT ITS A THOUGHT./
I put locktight on yesterday and finished a race but I think this shouldn't be necessary and wanted to know if anyone knew a reason for it working it's way loose.

Like you say the axles can go on either side

Thanks for the tip though
JamieV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 02:53 PM   #1974
Tech Adept
 
StevenOlsen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Denmark
Posts: 176
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI View Post
CAN PATTO OR ANYONE ELSE ANSWER THIS:

WHY ON ALL THE TOP 6 SETUPS I DOWNLOADED (FOR CARPET) AND PRINTED AND COMPARED, ARE FISCHER, NEILSEN, OLSEN, AND BOTZENHART RUNNING LARGE MM SHIMS ON THE INSIDE UPPER CAMBER LINKS. (ON THE UPPER CLAMPS). THIS WOULD REMOVE CAMBER RISE FROM THE CAR, RIGHT? SO AS THE CAR CORNERS AND WITH TRACTION, THE FULCRUM OF THE CAR/CAMBERLINK FORCES THE TIRES TO LOOSE TRACTION?

AM I THINKING ABOUT THIS CORRECTLY? OR BASSACKWARDS...........

IM RUNNING 1MM REAR INSIDE CAMBER LINK AND 2MM INSIDE FRONT CAMBER LINK SHIMS. THE REAR HUMBS HAVE 3MM AND THE FRONT CHUBS HAVE NOTHING. MY CAMBERLINKS ARE ANGLED DOWN TOWARD THE CENTER OF THE CAR GIVING IT HUGE CAMBER RISE. MY TIRES "CHIRP" AROUND CORNERS BUT IF I DRIVE IT OUT OF THE GROOVE OR TOO HARD ON THROTTLE, ITS A BEAST TO CONTROL.


WOULD CHANGING MY SHIMS HELP THIS?

I CAN SNAP PICS TO BETTER ILLUSTRATE.....
im a little lost about your description. but the more shims you run on the inner link the lower the roll center will be. and lower roll center generate more chassis roll and more grip.

steven
__________________
Steven Olsen
CAR: Awsomatix A700L.
Nosram 7000 Batteries.
Nosram Comet HD ESC.
Nosram Pure 2 evolution Motor.
StevenOlsen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 04:01 PM   #1975
Tech Elite
 
mattwoodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: perth / australia
Posts: 2,747
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieV View Post
Can anyone tell me why I keep losing my front Left wheel during a race? I'm not a newbie but have to post this as I am out of ideas. I have run this car for 5 meetings now and it has happened loads of times.

Thanks
maybe look at the thread that had been cut eather on the shaft or nut maybe you have bad one with a loose thread causing you the issue. if swap the cv shaft left to right would the problem transfer
mattwoodcraft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 04:06 PM   #1976
Tech Elite
 
mattwoodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: perth / australia
Posts: 2,747
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

shims adding yes adjust the role center but its a very minor change compared to adding or removing the shims under the toe blocks. on some of my cars i have had i have barely even noticed the change
mattwoodcraft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 01:36 AM   #1977
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 173
Default

Steven,
I am confused I have always found that the lower the inner camber link the more bite and aggression the car has and if you raise the inner camber link it tends to take away bite less aggressive and easier to drive in high traction conditions??

Anyone else have an opinion on this?

Many Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenOlsen View Post
im a little lost about your description. but the more shims you run on the inner link the lower the roll center will be. and lower roll center generate more chassis roll and more grip.

steven
008-Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 01:46 AM   #1978
Tech Apprentice
 
DeLaSoul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 53
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 008-Racer View Post
Steven,
I am confused I have always found that the lower the inner camber link the more bite and aggression the car has and if you raise the inner camber link it tends to take away bite less aggressive and easier to drive in high traction conditions??

Anyone else have an opinion on this?

Many Thanks
Raising the inner ball stud increases mid corner traction, decreases initial bite. lowering the ball stud gives more initial traction, less mid corner - basically you are both right, you just haven't clarified where in the corner you are talking about

JamieV - Check that the drive shaft is not bent/vibrating. If everything is tight and the serrated nuts are new then it's possible that vibration is shaking it loose. If you are racing Friday then bring it over and I can take a look
__________________
Slikks Graphix - Model Cars Reading - Akula Racing - Serpent UK
DeLaSoul is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 02:55 AM   #1979
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 173
Default

[QUOTE=DeLaSoul;10001598]Raising the inner ball stud increases mid corner traction, decreases initial bite. lowering the ball stud gives more initial traction, less mid corner - basically you are both right, you just haven't clarified where in the corner you are talking about

Great feedback thank you

Can you explain what would be achieved if I lower or raise the shims under the suspension holders

Also can you advise on anti dive and anti squat

Thanks again
008-Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 04:35 AM   #1980
Tech Apprentice
 
DeLaSoul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 53
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 008-Racer View Post

Great feedback thank you

Can you explain what would be achieved if I lower or raise the shims under the suspension holders

Also can you advise on anti dive and anti squat

Thanks again
Hi,

Lowering the pivot block is the same as raising the ball stud on the inner link, so more mid corner, less initial bite and vice versa. I find personally that 0.5mm change in the lower roll centre gives me as noticeable a change as 1mm in the upper roll centre if that makes sense??? Basically I find it a more sensitive change when adjusting the lower roll centre. Just remember to re-adjust the droop afterwards

On the rear of the car - Anti squat is a way of slowing or controlling the rear of the car "dropping" or squatting on power as the suspension can't collapse as easily. Outcome - It gives more forward traction out of corners and more steering on power, but on the downside the car can become less stable on corner entry and worse through the bumps on power.

On the front of the car - Anti dive is a way of slowing down the weight transfer on the nose of the car off power. Car becomes more stable on the way into the corner, and you can gain some off power steering (I know, this seems like a contradiction - but remember you will also be reducing the caster angle with anti dive) but you loose some on power steering. The car also is worse through bumps with more anti-dive.

The best setup guide i have ever read is by Elvo - link below
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

Very easy to follow and really helped me! The sections on the roll centre are very cool as they have simple animations to show the main points.

HTH

Dave
__________________
Slikks Graphix - Model Cars Reading - Akula Racing - Serpent UK
DeLaSoul is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Batu Kawan Rc Track Tongga Malaysian R/C Racers 10418 06-28-2016 11:34 PM
DRCW Raceway Chesapeake, VA // Asphalt / Indoor Off Road / Outdoor Off Road stiltskin Racing Forum 10278 11-14-2014 07:39 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:53 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0