R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-24-2011, 03:06 PM   #1846
Tech Elite
 
mattwoodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: perth / australia
Posts: 2,747
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

i could not agree more, i have also removed the spool from the car and run a gear diff 200k oil in and the car is perfect drives better, less tyre wear and i have my EPA set to 70%
mattwoodcraft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 03:16 PM   #1847
Tech Regular
 
VexVegaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn / Staten Island
Posts: 347
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by #iZzy View Post
Guys, EVERY car is rattling, vibrating or name it like you want on power if tires are installed AND the car is on a car stand ... but if u drive, this isn't a problem anymore...

Doesn't matter which car, Tamiya, Yokomo, Schumacher and Co. - all doing that!

Only one Way to fix that - Double-Joint CVD's ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbenthobbies View Post
The reason the car is chattering is you have a solid axle with a a single cvd joint, which creates a angle phasing issue. There are two solutions to fix this issue is dual joint cvds or if you run a front diff. This is why in big cars they do not do this, it affects the handling and unneeded stress on the parts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BCDK View Post
Hi VexVegaz.

It could also be the pins in the 19 teeth pulleys at the spur. The pins, which go through the spur axle and hold the pulleys. The hole in the pulleys are slightly too big for the pins. Fill in something at the pins - like a tiny puttygum ball (only 1 mm thick) at each pin end.

I had a noise like that. Wenn there was no weight on the belts, then I had no noise. I had exactly the same issue years ago in a Corally RDX Phi.

Try it. It is done in a few minutes. Mayby that is your problem.

This issue has been discussed earlier here in this forum.


Quote:
Originally Posted by #iZzy View Post
Guys, EVERY car is rattling, vibrating or name it like you want on power if tires are installed AND the car is on a car stand ... but if u drive, this isn't a problem anymore...

Doesn't matter which car, Tamiya, Yokomo, Schumacher and Co. - all doing that!

Only one Way to fix that - Double-Joint CVD's ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbenthobbies View Post
The reason the car is chattering is you have a solid axle with a a single cvd joint, which creates a angle phasing issue. There are two solutions to fix this issue is dual joint cvds or if you run a front diff. This is why in big cars they do not do this, it affects the handling and unneeded stress on the parts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelNilsson View Post
As stated already, the rattling is because of the CVDs getting angled too much. Nothing else. Every car with spool has this phenomenon to some degree.

This is just a theoretical problem though, since a properly driven/properly set up car never reaches those angles, except maybe in really tight hair pins and slow sections. At low speed, this rattling is negligible (when driving). If you need to turn the steering that much in order to get around the corner, your car is not set up properly. This extreme angling of the CVDs will also make the rear end feel loose (more than necessary). I usually never turn the steering more than 85%. It's sufficient even for very tight tracks.

Solution: Dual-joint axles or differential. A gear diff with 500k oil works very well in every condition.


Best,

Michael, Serpent International
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft View Post
i could not agree more, i have also removed the spool from the car and run a gear diff 200k oil in and the car is perfect drives better, less tyre wear and i have my EPA set to 70%
Again, thanks to everyone for their inputs and solutions, its feedback and responce such as these that insures me that ive made a great decision by getting a serpent. it actualy never gave me issues s far as driving and in reality i didnt even need that much steering since the car it self with lower epa settings provide plenty of steering.

I will be moving into a front gear diff as soon as funds allows it, then go for the dual joint axel.

Thanks again
__________________
Serpent Cobra GT > Serpent 748TQ Serpent S411 Serpent SRX2 Sanwa MT-4 Novarossi Hobbywing Epic D3 Savox > Sweep Tires > BrooklynHobbies.Com

For RC TShirts and Custom Sponsor Shirts & Hoodies, Please Visit www.veytrex.com
VexVegaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 03:32 PM   #1848
Tech Rookie
 
LIUK82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Bergamo Italy
Posts: 16
Default

Sorry I tried in every way to adjust the rebound of the shock, but just screwed the whole ring, the shaft coming out of my other mm

I have tried in these ways:

mode1
ammo to fill the body with oil
impregnating the sponge oil
insert the shaft with the hand set to rebound 2mm
without pushing down all the oil alone
Then I screwed the bottom without touching the rebound, all screwed
and screw out the oil, clean and tighten all, the shaft comes from other mm rebound.

mode2
Riepe shock body with oil, insert the shaft to the end, no rebound in the oil down the shaft to the bottom, pull out my rebound 2mm, screw everything and the rod comes out of a few mm of rebound,


length 13mm shock absorbers, as written in the manual

nothing to do, once adjusted the rebound
just squeeze the ring completely out of ammo pushes me
other mm shaft

I tried to put to put + oil - oil, flip them, screw them in every way, no rebound can not keep what I want to give ......
LIUK82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 03:38 PM   #1849
Tech Elite
 
mattwoodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: perth / australia
Posts: 2,747
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

just a thought do you want rebound, i do not use the foam peices an the shocks and the car feels smoother to drive and more predictable with out out the foam with minimal preload.
mattwoodcraft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 03:41 PM   #1850
Tech Rookie
 
LIUK82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Bergamo Italy
Posts: 16
Default

so should I remove the sponge?

removed the towel but the effect is the same :-(

Last edited by LIUK82; 11-24-2011 at 03:57 PM.
LIUK82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 04:00 PM   #1851
Tech Elite
 
mattwoodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: perth / australia
Posts: 2,747
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

with the testing i have done i like to rum a 0 rebound at most the shocks rebound aout no more than a mm at most for me this makes the car chassi work and suspension work better and provides more traction.
it made my serpent feel less twichy going through s bends and sweepers and full speed. I was only talking about this to my mate the other day
you should give it a shot and see wether you like it or not. rebound is a fine tuning setting. On all my previous cars i have always removed the foam from the shocks
mattwoodcraft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 04:13 PM   #1852
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,285
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

I run the stock shock, but when I set the rebound I have a piece of fuel line tubing thats about 5mm long and slit so I can slip it over the shock shaft. I put this over the shaft and then push the shaft in till it goes as far in as it can, and then tighten the end cap assembly, this gives me the same rebound each time I build the shocks. It comes out to about 25% rebound.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 04:17 PM   #1853
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,285
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Matt I'm curious about the removal of the foam.

Does this make a zero rebound shock?

Also does the shock leak any more than when the foam is in?

Wouldn't removing the foam won't that make the shock travel longer?

If this is the case do you put something else in place of the foam?

Thanks
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 04:41 PM   #1854
Tech Elite
 
mattwoodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: perth / australia
Posts: 2,747
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

i guess it would make the shock travel further but this is over come by the drop screws anyway. i put nothing in place i guess you use spaces instead. the main reason why i removed it was i was having difficulties getting the chock the way i liked it with no air in there. I guess it could be compared to other makes where they have a bladder on top with the sponge sitting between the top cap and baldder.
my shocks are not leaking i have not touched them now for 2 or 3 months but they will be getting stripped soon.
for me it was easier to get all 4 shocks to be balanced the way i liked it.
anything is worth a shot i guess
mattwoodcraft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 04:56 PM   #1855
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,285
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Hmmm, on a conventional shock or top loader shock the foam affects the compression stroke of the shock, closes the gap between the bladder and the shock top. The serpent shock doesn't have this option so to speak, so I'm having a hard time understanding how the foam removal makes this a zero rebound shock. To me there is no way to equalize the pressure between the top and bottom of the piston, thus creating a zero rebound shock. I'm starting to wonder if there really is a way to make a true zero rebound shock with the serpent parts, maybe a fancy dampner tube/shock, but not a true shock.

Not saying your right or wrong, I just can't understand how. So if someone else can elaborate more on this please do.

(Might have to try the no foam deal though)

I did find that when I build my shocks as described above it made the car far more planted than before. And I usually run a zero rebound setup with my other cars, but they have the top loader type shocks.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 05:25 PM   #1856
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 106
Send a message via ICQ to #iZzy Send a message via MSN to #iZzy Send a message via Yahoo to #iZzy
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelNilsson View Post
As stated already, the rattling is because of the CVDs getting angled too much. Nothing else. Every car with spool has this phenomenon to some degree.

This is just a theoretical problem though, since a properly driven/properly set up car never reaches those angles, except maybe in really tight hair pins and slow sections. At low speed, this rattling is negligible (when driving). If you need to turn the steering that much in order to get around the corner, your car is not set up properly. This extreme angling of the CVDs will also make the rear end feel loose (more than necessary). I usually never turn the steering more than 85%. It's sufficient even for very tight tracks.

Solution: Dual-joint axles or differential. A gear diff with 500k oil works very well in every condition.


Best,

Michael, Serpent International
Hi Michael, not 100% correct You find cool videos on Youtube how a "standard" cvd works and it's a physical thing that they're rattling - it isn't an "angle" problem only...

Me, and Fischer too, always drive 100% (maximum) Steering. Everytime!

A gear diff isn't the solution, too - because a gear diff feels ways different for me. Sometimes i use a 500k Geardiff or cleaning gum Geardiff - and sometimes the Spool.

Best way to eliminate that problem is to use the Double-Joint CVDs. Then you have all ways possible, Geardiff or Spool in Front!
__________________
Team Magic Europe - HRC-Distribution - GM-Racing - LMI - MR33 - Tonisport
#iZzy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 05:25 PM   #1857
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 969
Trader Rating: 24 (96%+)
Default

maybe i should buy the xray, as no one on this tread can tell me where i can preorder a s411 le in the states or canada, do they even have parts in north america,
zaraz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 05:39 PM   #1858
Tech Champion
 
YR4Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 5,625
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zaraz View Post
maybe i should buy the xray, as no one on this tread can tell me where i can preorder a s411 le in the states or canada, do they even have parts in north america,
Go here:
http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/home.php

Their phone number is on the upper right hand corner. Give them a call and they can tell you where. These people (De Soto Racing) are the US distributor for everything Serpent.
YR4Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 05:42 PM   #1859
Tech Regular
 
jbenthobbies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 368
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by #iZzy View Post
Hi Michael, not 100% correct You find cool videos on Youtube how a "standard" cvd works and it's a physical thing that they're rattling - it isn't an "angle" problem only...

Me, and Fischer too, always drive 100% (maximum) Steering. Everytime!

A gear diff isn't the solution, too - because a gear diff feels ways different for me. Sometimes i use a 500k Geardiff or cleaning gum Geardiff - and sometimes the Spool.

Best way to eliminate that problem is to use the Double-Joint CVDs. Then you have all ways possible, Geardiff or Spool in Front!
Well this is an angle problem. So many people in this industry try to reinvent the wheel. Have you ever driven in a rear wheel drive car when the drive line is out of phase? There is vibration and binding. The only way to fix this is a dual cvd or dual cardasion joint. In this case a diff or dual joint will work. I have been in this Rc industry for 37 years plus and 30 years working with big race cars and setup also I have a degree in manufacturing. They have tried to use spools in big cars in the front with no success. If you want some questions answered about car setups there was a engineer back in the 70's name Carrol Smith check out his books you can google them.
__________________
AKA, KO, EAMotorsports, Redsrc. Capricorn
jbenthobbies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011, 05:53 PM   #1860
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,285
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zaraz View Post
maybe i should buy the xray, as no one on this tread can tell me where i can preorder a s411 le in the states or canada, do they even have parts in north america,
You'll have to google these but in Canada, Clockwork Engines in Winnipeg, and RC Depot in Edmonton.

USA has Stormers and A-main hobbies also has parts.

And I also always use 100% throw and use onlywhats required to negotiate the corner.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Batu Kawan Rc Track Tongga Malaysian R/C Racers 10418 06-28-2016 11:34 PM
DRCW Raceway Chesapeake, VA // Asphalt / Indoor Off Road / Outdoor Off Road stiltskin Racing Forum 10278 11-14-2014 07:39 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:34 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0