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Old 11-06-2011, 08:54 AM   #1621
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post


Finished building it today and sort of mini tested it at the track before dark. First impression, as most of you guys found out, very tail happy on power out of corners. I didn't expect it to be that bad and I m really worried now, I know I will work it out and hopefully can get rid of it by end of this weekend coz I ll have a race this Sunday.

Few questions:

1. I was using basic asphalt set up (not the kit set up) that I found on petit r/c, with the exception of ride height, I was using 7mm at the rear and 6.5mm at the front (our track is very bumpy and I m also trying to save the chassis from scrapping). Now, with the usual droop of 6mm at the front and 5mm at the rear (from set up sheet) how much of chassis lift value is it actually? I just want to transfer the value with my current ride height setting.

2. My car I think is a V1, came with 2.5mm low deck and no spur gear. When I finish building it I felt the car is too stiff (compare to my other previous cars). Is this one of the reason its very tail happy on power? I have ordered the 2.25mm chassis and should be here by early next week. Having said this anybody has experimented cutting maybe some holes especially at the rear (maybe behind the motor and the batt? kind of like BD5's chassis) or will removing some top deck screws (rear)provide some flex and improve the rear grip.

3. Can you guys list me a step by step on what to do next to improve the rear grip on power. So far what I m thinking of doing are:
-to remove both the rear 1mm bracket shims
-set the front droop to get more on power weight transfer to the rear (pls provide me chassis lift value)
- softer rear spring ( I have White springs on order as well as some HPI springs which usually work with all my previous cars)
- maybe trying a thicker diff oil coz I think it unloaded easily during cornering and make the car look like it did not want to straighten up.
- wait for my 2.25mm chassis and hopefully it will improve the handling drastically.

FYI I tested my car using Much More 36 tyres with 7.5t motor mildly boosted. My local track is parking lot asphalt with medium grip.
Mine has been tail happy on power even with the 2.25mm chassis, today I tried the 0.5mm bracket shims at the rear and also ran 5 droop at the front. Removed the two screws on the top deck behind the motor. It's helped alot but I'm still not happy with it

I tried the white springs on the rear and found it worse !
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:04 AM   #1622
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What site has the best deal on the s411???
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Old 11-06-2011, 10:14 AM   #1623
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Try moving the rear arms back toward the rear of the car. Also, try no sway bar on the rear. Maybe no shims under the rear blocks, and lowering the inner camber link in the rear.
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Old 11-06-2011, 11:05 AM   #1624
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Also don't forget that you may have to take some front end away from the car to get the rear to grip.

Wheel base change up front.
Bigger front sway bar.
Harder front springs.
Thicker front shock oil.

Just something to consider.
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Old 11-06-2011, 11:39 AM   #1625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jinjiro7 View Post
I use 400 wet/dry. Then 600. I sand it underwater. I also sand the shock towers to take the edge off.
Thnks a million Jin, BTW what grease do you recommend to use for the pivot joints/shaft? and associated stealth grease ok for cvd's?
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Old 11-06-2011, 12:04 PM   #1626
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anyone now where to get http://serpent.com/product/401445/
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Old 11-06-2011, 12:10 PM   #1627
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looks like borders may have it, but pretty expensive.
http://the-border.com/product.php?pr...8&bestseller=Y
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Old 11-06-2011, 02:20 PM   #1628
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Originally Posted by VexVegaz View Post
looks like borders may have it, but pretty expensive.
http://the-border.com/product.php?pr...8&bestseller=Y
I'll try to wait till it comes to the us
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Old 11-06-2011, 03:56 PM   #1629
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You can try this:

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Originally Posted by Gergely View Post
Hello SAW,

I think the changes you made are not really effective to solve your problem. If I were I in your shoes (I was ) I would go for longer rear wheelbase (4mm in front of the rear arms), and use 4 gears with 1000cst oil in the diff. Please check if your crown gear is not moving too much on the diff outdrive when the screw is fully tightened. Also use the 3.5 rear toe block if you have.

Hope this helps!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Finished building it today and sort of mini tested it at the track before dark. First impression, as most of you guys found out, very tail happy on power out of corners. I didn't expect it to be that bad and I m really worried now, I know I will work it out and hopefully can get rid of it by end of this weekend coz I ll have a race this Sunday.
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Old 11-06-2011, 04:02 PM   #1630
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I'll try to wait till it comes to the us
102 US dollars
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Old 11-06-2011, 04:39 PM   #1631
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102 US dollars
Damn that's Xray money..
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:00 PM   #1632
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102 US dollars
102 dollars what r they on dope or dog food
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:28 PM   #1633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Try moving the rear arms back toward the rear of the car. Also, try no sway bar on the rear. Maybe no shims under the rear blocks, and lowering the inner camber link in the rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gergely View Post
You can try this:

My current set up already put 4mm infront of the rear arms, maybe I ll try 5mm and no sway bar today. I don't have the 3.5deg RR bracket yet, I have yet to order it, but my LHS carries Tamiya blocks which I heard are also direct fit. Might want to try it if it really fits.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:52 PM   #1634
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RC Market,

When are you getting the Aluminum Steering Block is stock?

http://www.serpent.com/product/401422/
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:04 PM   #1635
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im waiting on that too, but you might do better sending him/her a pm

http://www.rctech.net/forum/private....=newpm&u=41625
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