16LikesSerpent S411
11-04-2011, 06:00 PM
#1591
Johnny,
You can ditch the servo mount plate and just use double sided tape to mount the servo and use the inner servo mount for added security.
You can ditch the servo mount plate and just use double sided tape to mount the servo and use the inner servo mount for added security.
I found that the hard arms gave a fast lap but made the car harder to drive on what I would call a med traction carpet track. Found more consistency with the Med parts. More testing required on that.
With the torsion bar holder, I just center the bar then center the collar in the holder and only snug it down making sure that the collar doesn't twist.
Adam you will like this car, if not just on the color alone.
I am running the RevTech big batteries and in order to get the car balanced out I have to run the cell out a bit. To get consistent spacing on the battery I took the front screw out of the motor mount and use 2 of the 3 mm spacers with a round head screw, this keeps the battery from moving in. I had to make my own front piece that I can screw in or out to get the pack even in the car.
I got my car used off of here, so it had some laps on it already.
The steering rack mod has really helped take the sloop out of steering.
One thing to watch out for, is if you use the steering servo mount, make sure that you tighten the 2 nuts and screws that hold the plate onto the chassis. I had the steering trim going off and found that even though the screws where tight the assembly still moved off and wasn't square with the chassis. Just enough to change the centering of the car. I'm going to run this setup again and if it moves I will have to consider more extreme means to secure that item.
With the torsion bar holder, I just center the bar then center the collar in the holder and only snug it down making sure that the collar doesn't twist.
Adam you will like this car, if not just on the color alone.
I am running the RevTech big batteries and in order to get the car balanced out I have to run the cell out a bit. To get consistent spacing on the battery I took the front screw out of the motor mount and use 2 of the 3 mm spacers with a round head screw, this keeps the battery from moving in. I had to make my own front piece that I can screw in or out to get the pack even in the car.
I got my car used off of here, so it had some laps on it already.
The steering rack mod has really helped take the sloop out of steering.
One thing to watch out for, is if you use the steering servo mount, make sure that you tighten the 2 nuts and screws that hold the plate onto the chassis. I had the steering trim going off and found that even though the screws where tight the assembly still moved off and wasn't square with the chassis. Just enough to change the centering of the car. I'm going to run this setup again and if it moves I will have to consider more extreme means to secure that item.
11-04-2011, 06:10 PM
#1592
there are two shims that go behind the large diff gears inside the diff housing. do not use (the two extra shims) these on a new diff. maybe once the diff needs rebuilt you could use the shims but it may be a while before they are needed.
if you do use the shims on a new diff it will make the diff gears mesh to tight and it will not work smoothly causing performance issues.
if you do use the shims on a new diff it will make the diff gears mesh to tight and it will not work smoothly causing performance issues.
11-04-2011, 06:38 PM
#1594
Mine came with 2 big shims and 2 small shims, the manual only says to put the big shims behind the big gears but did not mentioned anything (pic wise) on where the 2 small shims go to, so I just put it on the shaft behind the small gears (like a normal nitro cars diff).
11-04-2011, 06:58 PM
#1595
Thanks, I threw that out there for the newer people that might run that option. I used to run the single inner post and tape, to which it ended up moving as well. I've even glued servos in place only to have them fail at the most in-oppurtune time.
I run a servo saver on the car as well and in order to make clearance for the servo saver with the mount plate I run a 1mm shim between the servo posts and the chassis. This works well except that the servo seems to eventually work its way down to the point that the servo saver will rub the servo mount plate. The fix I do now is the 1mm spacers with the mount plate and a double layer of sero tape under the servo, just to keep it from rubbing. This might be overkill but there is nothing more annoying than phantom steering issues.
Two big shims are for the big gears and the small ones are for shimming the small gears if the backlash gets too big. Use them all and check the diff, I use them all. (The upgrade kit comes with all the shims, big and small.)
11-04-2011, 08:15 PM
#1596
shocks length
Do you guys set ur shocks to 13mm like the instruction is saying? How about rebound?
11-04-2011, 08:41 PM
#1597
rebound, i have used these Serpent shocks for many years now. i have built for max rebound, minimal rebound , half rebound. i have settled on 1/3rd rebound, as the shocks stay more consistant in rebound for longer. alot of rebound , and you can find yourself redoing shocks a bit to keep them all the same. 1.3rd works for longer for me. just take your time screwing the cap down, and let the oil bleed out slowly. i use 3mm caster clips and keep the piston held down tight while doing the bottom cap up slowly. this gives me the best results over all 4 shocks.
11-04-2011, 09:19 PM
#1598
11-05-2011, 01:12 AM
#1599
I built the diss as per the instruction book - without the 2 extra shims - asn after a month's running I've had no issues to date. Smooth action and no back lash at all
11-05-2011, 04:48 AM
#1600
Tech Regular
Any tips to loosen up the turnbuckles ? I've screwed the links on a few times also with grease but there still very hard to turn. Everytime I try and adjust them they normally pop off, getting annoying now 
11-05-2011, 08:11 AM
#1602
Hi again guys,
In need of some help on gearing..not sure exactly where to start but here are my equip
esc & motor : epic d3 17.5 / rs pro with hotwire
i order a set of robinson pinion gears ranging from 48p 16-26 (even)
and a few spur gears 78, 81, and the one that comes with the kit. i would hate to have to buy more, but will do if necessary.
it will be used on this track
Thanks guys..
In need of some help on gearing..not sure exactly where to start but here are my equip
esc & motor : epic d3 17.5 / rs pro with hotwire
i order a set of robinson pinion gears ranging from 48p 16-26 (even)
and a few spur gears 78, 81, and the one that comes with the kit. i would hate to have to buy more, but will do if necessary.
it will be used on this track
| + YouTube Video | |
Thanks guys..
11-05-2011, 08:18 AM
#1603
Hi again guys,
In need of some help on gearing..not sure exactly where to start but here are my equip
esc & motor : epic d3 17.5 / rs pro with hotwire
i order a set of robinson pinion gears ranging from 48p 16-26 (even)
and a few spur gears 78, 81, and the one that comes with the kit. i would hate to have to buy more, but will do if necessary.
Thanks guys..
In need of some help on gearing..not sure exactly where to start but here are my equip
esc & motor : epic d3 17.5 / rs pro with hotwire
i order a set of robinson pinion gears ranging from 48p 16-26 (even)
and a few spur gears 78, 81, and the one that comes with the kit. i would hate to have to buy more, but will do if necessary.
Thanks guys..
any idea how big the track is?
11-05-2011, 08:28 AM
#1604
not sure exactly which one id be running, so it would help to have both boosted & non?
roughly 50x100 ozite on plywood subfloor
roughly 50x100 ozite on plywood subfloor
11-05-2011, 08:29 AM
#1605
Sorry don't have that problem. I can tell you that if its because the ball links are too loose do the plastic over the ball trick. I used to use plastic bags for this but sometimes the mil is too thick, so now I use saran wrap, which is thinner. If I do it and its still too loose I will double the wrap and try again. If still too loose I will triple it. The nice thing about the saran wrap besides being thinner is when you pop the link on it almost every time cuts the plastic so you don't have to do any trimming.