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Old 11-03-2011, 09:30 AM   #1576
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I started my build yesterday. So far, it seems fantastic. The car builds up very similar to a 417, except the quality is more like XRay. I'm super impressed so far. I own both those other cars, and it feels like someone took the best ideas from each and combined them into this ride.

The sway bar centering piece is rubbing a bit on the cross brace and preventing smooth movement. You guys doing anything to prevent that?

Man, I missed cars that don't look like clown shoes with all the funky colors everywhere. The gun metal look is a throwback to the old days, and it's beautiful.
when i tighten mine, i hold the collar square with pliers. then tighten the grub screw.
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Old 11-03-2011, 10:28 AM   #1577
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Hello Patto!

Could you please explain this further? Which shim makes what tight?

Thanks!

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I just wonder if people are buildign the rear diffs with the shims provided. if they are used, the diff will be tight as hell, and this may be an issue.
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:31 PM   #1578
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Hello Patto!

Could you please explain this further? Which shim makes what tight?

Thanks!
there are two shims that go behind the large diff gears inside the diff housing. do not use (the two extra shims) these on a new diff. maybe once the diff needs rebuilt you could use the shims but it may be a while before they are needed.

if you do use the shims on a new diff it will make the diff gears mesh to tight and it will not work smoothly causing performance issues.
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Old 11-03-2011, 09:03 PM   #1579
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Date Ordered: Thursday 03 November, 2011

Products
------------------------------------------------------
1 x Common Sense Tarantula Eight-in-One Charging Adapter (CMSTARANTULA1) = $13.95
1 x Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile Digital High Speed Metal Gear Servo (SAV-SC-1251MG) = $62.99
1 x Serpent S411 1/10th 190mm Touring Car Kit (SER400005) = $439.99
1 x Airtronics MT-4 SSR 2.4 GHz Radio System w/Telemetry (No Servos) (AIR90481) = $269.99
------------------------------------------------------
Discount Coupon ******* applied: -$25.00
Sub-Total: $761.92
United States Postal Service (1 x 11lbs) (PRIORITY (2 - 3 Days)): $12.15
Total: $774.07

Delivery Address
------------------------------------------------------
YES!!!!! Thanks everyone, for all the valuable info that led me to my purchase.

Thanks
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Old 11-04-2011, 04:22 AM   #1580
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Im sure you will be more than happy Vex.

Rhys
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Old 11-04-2011, 06:29 AM   #1581
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Originally Posted by Jinjiro7 View Post
So how would the S411 Hard arms compare to a Tamiya arm in term of stiffness? Not sure if I should get Med or Hard. I really don't like te flex of the soft kit arms on carpet. Asphalt kit arms were fine.
Hey Ryan,

The Hard arms are like the Tamiya Hard arms in their feel (flex). For indoor, I am going to run them on all 4 corners - whereas the medium arms would be better for the parking lot tracks that we race on in the summer. I switched to the hard arms last weekend and the car did feel better. More consistent on a higher traction track. I would assume they are going to be better on medium traction tracks as well.

Martin
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Old 11-04-2011, 06:32 AM   #1582
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The sway bar centering piece is rubbing a bit on the cross brace and preventing smooth movement. You guys doing anything to prevent that?
I found that if you overtighten the 1.5 mm grub screw that holds the center-piece in place it casuses it to twist which is where the rubbing is coming in. Use a little Threadlock and don't tighten it too much - just snug. It's not a high-volume contact point so you won't run into many problems with it loosening off on you.

Martin
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:31 AM   #1583
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i took them off and i hold the sway bar lightly with only the grub screws just enough so the car sway bar doesnt move side to side. no more binding
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Old 11-04-2011, 08:42 AM   #1584
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I built up a kit this past week for the shop owner. Box stock on the rug with the rear sway disconnected and shocks laid in a bit in the rear and it was really good. We ended up taking a Parma hard bumper for a losi type-r and modded it to fit the 411 for a bit more protection. I think about 4-5 small adjustments and the car would be right there where it really needs to be on the layout.
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Old 11-04-2011, 08:43 AM   #1585
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
there are two shims that go behind the large diff gears inside the diff housing. do not use (the two extra shims) these on a new diff. maybe once the diff needs rebuilt you could use the shims but it may be a while before they are needed.

if you do use the shims on a new diff it will make the diff gears mesh to tight and it will not work smoothly causing performance issues.
I agree. I tried adding them on the initial built and it was too tight.
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:00 AM   #1586
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YES!!!!! Thanks everyone, for all the valuable info that led me to my purchase.

Thanks
been following the threads, excellent choice. can't wait to get my s411. also these guys on the s411 thread are awesome,very helpful, great info. if i may ask where did you end up getting you car from
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:11 AM   #1587
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coyotehobbies.com not sure if they have them in stock right now but you can give Brian a call and he can ship you one.
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:48 PM   #1588
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I found that the hard arms gave a fast lap but made the car harder to drive on what I would call a med traction carpet track. Found more consistency with the Med parts. More testing required on that.

With the torsion bar holder, I just center the bar then center the collar in the holder and only snug it down making sure that the collar doesn't twist.

Adam you will like this car, if not just on the color alone.

I am running the RevTech big batteries and in order to get the car balanced out I have to run the cell out a bit. To get consistent spacing on the battery I took the front screw out of the motor mount and use 2 of the 3 mm spacers with a round head screw, this keeps the battery from moving in. I had to make my own front piece that I can screw in or out to get the pack even in the car.

I got my car used off of here, so it had some laps on it already.

The steering rack mod has really helped take the sloop out of steering.

One thing to watch out for, is if you use the steering servo mount, make sure that you tighten the 2 nuts and screws that hold the plate onto the chassis. I had the steering trim going off and found that even though the screws where tight the assembly still moved off and wasn't square with the chassis. Just enough to change the centering of the car. I'm going to run this setup again and if it moves I will have to consider more extreme means to secure that item.
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:16 PM   #1589
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What's the steering rack mod? I just pushed the bearing in with some plastic wrap around them and it seemed to take up the play.
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:27 PM   #1590
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Im sure you will be more than happy Vex.

Rhys
if this thread is aything to go by, I will definitely enjoy this car. I have never owned a fine piece of machinery like this before, so im sure you can imagine my excitement and anticipation.

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Originally Posted by atmeearacing View Post
been following the threads, excellent choice. can't wait to get my s411. also these guys on the s411 thread are awesome,very helpful, great info. if i may ask where did you end up getting you car from
absolutely helpful, im able to get most of the necessary parts i will need before the kit even arrives and Johnny Wishbone has helped me with a part numbers i need. I got the kit and mt-4 from chad @ absolutehobbyzs.com, very helpful and even hooked me up with a $25 discount.

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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
What's the steering rack mod? I just pushed the bearing in with some plastic wrap around them and it seemed to take up the play.
Johnny Wishbone shared his tip on using shims to remove some of the slop on post #1540
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9852172-post1540.html
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