I need a motor lathe.
08-10-2004, 05:55 PM
#92
any recommendations for 10x1 v2 revolution motor? breakin time etc? (going ot get my surikarn soon, its on its way 
)
should use 3 cells to break-in a motor? or 2 cells? (2.4V or 3.6V)? which one is better?
Any conversion you have in inches, just multiply them by 25.4 and they will turn into millimeters. Similarly, any millimeters you have, divide them by 25.4 to get inches.
A great learning experience for me.
)should use 3 cells to break-in a motor? or 2 cells? (2.4V or 3.6V)? which one is better?
Any conversion you have in inches, just multiply them by 25.4 and they will turn into millimeters. Similarly, any millimeters you have, divide them by 25.4 to get inches.
A great learning experience for me.
08-10-2004, 07:47 PM
#93
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
As with any serrated brush, you just want the serrations to be touching (shiny) in all possible areas ,(same applys to a full face brush also) usually on modified motor break-in you want to back the timing down anywhere between 0 and 5 degrees, somewhere in this range, will give you the least amount of arcing which can add to the wear on the comm during the break-in...I think the V2 will be affcted by this arcing the least, but I would still back the timing down for break-in..... If you have to use cells , try the 3 cell set-up you mentioned......this way as they die (which will be pretty quick
) it might give you a decent adverage of being at the right voltage longer than the 2 cell set-up would be....then in the future pick up a used indi-dyno or similar device so your not beating yourself up trying to keep cells charged so you can break-in your brushes................Joe
) it might give you a decent adverage of being at the right voltage longer than the 2 cell set-up would be....then in the future pick up a used indi-dyno or similar device so your not beating yourself up trying to keep cells charged so you can break-in your brushes................Joe
08-10-2004, 09:37 PM
#95
Joe,
I don't believe you can make 0.0025 increments...
I got 0.05mm by using
2/1000=2 tenths of a thousand=0.002
1inch =2.54cm
10mm=1cm
0.002in * 2.54cm/in *10mm/cm = 0.05mm
But
0.0025mm=2.5*10^-3 mm
1mm=1*10^-3m
therefore
2.5*10-6m=2.5 microns.... 2.5 microns is
the size of a staphlococcus (bacterium sized)
You may want to double check that.
What's arcing? How long should I break in for?
I don't believe you can make 0.0025 increments...
I got 0.05mm by using
2/1000=2 tenths of a thousand=0.002
1inch =2.54cm
10mm=1cm
0.002in * 2.54cm/in *10mm/cm = 0.05mm
But
0.0025mm=2.5*10^-3 mm
1mm=1*10^-3m
therefore
2.5*10-6m=2.5 microns.... 2.5 microns is
the size of a staphlococcus (bacterium sized)
You may want to double check that.
What's arcing? How long should I break in for?
08-10-2004, 10:45 PM
#96
A fresh KR comm is .350....a fresh PT/TI or Trinity arm is .300...
You should never go below .270 on the PT(same comm as a V2) or Trinity Arms.
On a KR, I still maintain .320 is the cutoff, but you can get down to .310-.315....in some cases. I had a racers arm who was FAST, so he kept having me cut it....its exploded at .307....but I also had one explode at .317...
Simply put, anything under .320 is playing with fire....
Later EddieO
You should never go below .270 on the PT(same comm as a V2) or Trinity Arms.
On a KR, I still maintain .320 is the cutoff, but you can get down to .310-.315....in some cases. I had a racers arm who was FAST, so he kept having me cut it....its exploded at .307....but I also had one explode at .317...
Simply put, anything under .320 is playing with fire....
Later EddieO
08-11-2004, 12:26 AM
#97
Eddieo,
just wondering... what units is that in? i am a newb... adn not quite sure of how sizes work...
just wondering... what units is that in? i am a newb... adn not quite sure of how sizes work...
08-11-2004, 12:54 AM
#98
Inches on a set of digital calipers....
Later EddieO
Later EddieO
08-11-2004, 01:28 AM
#99
so its a diameter?
08-11-2004, 02:25 AM
#100
hey,
i need a quick answer on some lathes.
this is the lathe that looks the most appealing to me cuz it already comes with a diamond bit... and its cheap
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...l?pn=COB2000WD
thats the link, its a cobra pro 2000 comm lathe
is it good???
or is it worth paying the extra for
Trinity tru-lathe 3
or
Hudy Advance- with diamond
both of those lathes are over $100 more witha diamond bit... so is it worth it or not???
im not a GREAT racer... but im not shocking either... so please help me out here
thanx
robbie
i need a quick answer on some lathes.
this is the lathe that looks the most appealing to me cuz it already comes with a diamond bit... and its cheap
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...l?pn=COB2000WD
thats the link, its a cobra pro 2000 comm lathe
is it good???
or is it worth paying the extra for
Trinity tru-lathe 3
or
Hudy Advance- with diamond
both of those lathes are over $100 more witha diamond bit... so is it worth it or not???
im not a GREAT racer... but im not shocking either... so please help me out here
thanx
robbie
08-11-2004, 03:01 AM
#101
If you don't have a power supply you might want to get that power base thingy, it holds a 4cell underneath the lathe. Me, I just ordered an Integy Auto Lathe. That guy Big Jim from www.rccars.com can't talk enough about it and i'm too lazy to turn a wheel 20 times so i just bought one. It's about 150$. Comes with motors and bit.
The Cobra Lathe looks great, and I haven't heard one bad thing about it. So, best of luck to you mate.
The Cobra Lathe looks great, and I haven't heard one bad thing about it. So, best of luck to you mate.
08-11-2004, 09:10 AM
#102
I have 6 different lathes.....one of them is the new Integy Auto Lathe. Its very ease to use and provides awesome cuts and is relatively cheap when you consider it runs right off your power supply and comes with a SWEET carrying case(best lathe case you will ever see, hands down).
And yes, thats the diameter....its important that you measure in 5-6 places, to make sure its round. People put all this time and effort into getting a pretty looking cut, when in the end....the most important thing is roundness...motors aren't fast with a shiny coned comm....
Later EddieO
And yes, thats the diameter....its important that you measure in 5-6 places, to make sure its round. People put all this time and effort into getting a pretty looking cut, when in the end....the most important thing is roundness...motors aren't fast with a shiny coned comm....
Later EddieO
08-11-2004, 01:24 PM
#103
so on a V2, I have only 0.0015 on each side to lathe? 0.0002 is one of the smallest increment on most lathes.. so about 7-8 cuts of the comm its gone?
08-11-2004, 03:59 PM
#104
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Rcnewb2004...Im thinking mabe you should change your name to rc "know it all" 2004 .....the measurement was taken on two sepperate super high end micrometers.....at BMI's racing's facility......At their shop ,machining something within 2 tenths of one thousanth is "childs play" for the full size CNC machines......I will admit that,myself and jason (owner of BMI) were both fairly surprised that a cheap (compared to any REAL equipment)$450 hudy lathe would give a cut with tollerence's this good but neverthe less after setting this lathe up with all his dial indicators and equipment ....."It does just that"......you seem to always be refering to "increments" mabe your thinking I meant it's adjustable with in 1 tenth of a thousanths.......what I mean is that the freshly cut comm is round without any taper within 1 tenth of a thousanth.......
.....the measurement was taken on two sepperate super high end micrometers.....at BMI's racing's facility......At their shop ,machining something within 2 tenths of one thousanth is "childs play" for the full size CNC machines......I will admit that,myself and jason (owner of BMI) were both fairly surprised that a cheap (compared to any REAL equipment)$450 hudy lathe would give a cut with tollerence's this good but neverthe less after setting this lathe up with all his dial indicators and equipment ....."It does just that"......you seem to always be refering to "increments" mabe your thinking I meant it's adjustable with in 1 tenth of a thousanths.......what I mean is that the freshly cut comm is round without any taper within 1 tenth of a thousanth.......