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Old 12-31-2013, 07:55 AM   #556
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Originally Posted by ttsquirrel View Post
i ended up finding something on you tube and changed out the rotor, but the kit came with a couple different spacers and one o-ring. i just used the same spacer as the stock rotor. is there a reason why there are extra spacers for the rotors?

also noticed that stock rotor has four holes drilled into it. check the picture out. is that a mod that people do or is that from the factory like that? the green rotor does not have any holes in it. BTW, I bought the motor used.

Thanks

TTS
Make a note of how much end float there is with the stock rotor. The idea is to fit the other rotors with the same amount of end float.
The red and blue rotors are the same diameter, but the magnetic material on the blue is something like 1mm longer than the red, so different spacers might be required.
The green rotor is the same length as the blue, but has a larger diameter by 0.2mm.

Just take the original apart and when rebuilding with the new rotor, remember to put everything back, especially the huge fibre 'washer' at the sensor board end.
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Old 12-31-2013, 08:56 AM   #557
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
How large is your track, and how open are the typical layouts? Once we have an idea of how tight the track is, we can give you a better idea how to gear the motor. If you're thinking of running the TP 17.5 in TC, the green rotor w/35 degrees of timing is the way to go.
83x40 with about 9.2 second lap times in blinky TC.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:13 AM   #558
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83x40 with about 9.2 second lap times in blinky TC.
Try a 3.9 FDR as a starting point for the green rotor. If you try the blue rotor, start at 4.0. I used a 3.8 FDR, green rotor and 35 degrees of timing on a 100x40 track, and was very competitive using these settings.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:55 AM   #559
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thanks for the replies on the rotors.. I put eveything back together with the new spacers and o-ring to match the red rotor. hopefully everything will be ok. i will find out when i run it this weekend. if i run into some problems, there will probabaly be some guys at the track that can help me out.

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Old 01-07-2014, 02:11 PM   #560
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Having some issues with my 8.5T. It's really loud. It doesn't get hot or anything but when it runs you can hear that it doesn't quite sound right. I've had it for about a year and I've never done anything to it except blowing the dust out of it. What could be causing the noise? Also, the tabs are moving side to side just a little bit. Is that normal?
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Old 01-07-2014, 02:56 PM   #561
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Having some issues with my 8.5T. It's really loud. It doesn't get hot or anything but when it runs you can hear that it doesn't quite sound right. I've had it for about a year and I've never done anything to it except blowing the dust out of it. What could be causing the noise? Also, the tabs are moving side to side just a little bit. Is that normal?
I had a motor where there was a little play in the stator as well, that's probably the sound you're hearing.
I added another of the fibre shims to the sensor end from another TP motor, problem solved (add another small shim to the pinion end of the rotor shaft to compensate)
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Old 01-07-2014, 03:01 PM   #562
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I had a motor where there was a little play in the stator as well, that's probably the sound you're hearing.
I added another of the fibre shims to the sensor end from another TP motor, problem solved (add another small shim to the pinion end of the rotor shaft to compensate)
Do you mean this? Also, I cannot find any of the metal rotor shims for sale. A link to something I can use would be appreciated. Also, could it be the bearings making all of that noise?
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:12 AM   #563
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Anyone got a good configuration for 2wd stock buggy?
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:17 PM   #564
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When changing from the red to green rotor, should the shimming change or can i use the same spacing? Also, what effect does add or removing shims have?
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:03 PM   #565
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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
When changing from the red to green rotor, should the shimming change or can i use the same spacing? Also, what effect does add or removing shims have?
Shims can stay the same. For shimming, I'm pretty sure you want the rotor as close to the sensor board as possible, but not too close...best bet is to use the stock shim placement.
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:18 PM   #566
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Shims can stay the same. For shimming, I'm pretty sure you want the rotor as close to the sensor board as possible, but not too close...best bet is to use the stock shim placement.
that's what i did. thanks.
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:37 PM   #567
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Just replaced my 17.5 red rotor with the green rotor for my 12th scale. The track is 83x40, which starting gearing should I use with 42.5mm tire?? 35 degrees timing, correct?

For TC i used the blue rotor that and it worked out well but I'm curious what I'll get from the green in 12th.
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Last edited by ToysRUsKid; 01-19-2014 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:51 PM   #568
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These motors seem pretty fast !!!!
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:04 AM   #569
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Do you mean this? Also, I cannot find any of the metal rotor shims for sale. A link to something I can use would be appreciated. Also, could it be the bearings making all of that noise?
Yes, that's the part I meant.

I don't think the bearing could be as noisy as you think.

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Old 01-19-2014, 05:20 AM   #570
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never mind
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