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Old 07-28-2013, 02:56 PM   #526
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Originally Posted by Bill K View Post
Recently purchased one of these motors for 17.5 boosted state titles approaching.

Currently I am running a 6.25 FDR, with somewhat 40 degrees of boost and 30 degrees turbo on the new HW v3.1 ESC. I have 20 degrees of motor timing on the endbell using the red rotor, and from my experience this thing rocks!

Although, after every run it has a very strong smell to the motor, it performs very well, but I still want some more performance out of it to keep up with some of the faster racers. After a 6 minute run the motor comes off at about 70C with a heat sink and fan, and only once after a 15m run did it come of at 95C (Absolute borderline!!).

For about a 50m straight, this is the only area lacking competitive racing, as a few (not all) racers are alot faster. Can anyone suggest some HW settings that would maybe increase the performance? Or should I be going down on settings and changing timing or FDR?
Max number of points (timing) is 64 on the HW so running turbo 30 is actually only 24 as the 40 points of boost will be used first leaving 24 points of turbo doesn't matter what you set it at over 24 that's all you'll get.
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:39 PM   #527
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Originally Posted by 415tam View Post
Hi ThunderPowerRC, thanks for getting back about my gearing question.

Can I just confirm that the TP 17.5 (as comes out of the box) should be geared from my current gearing of 3.2 - 3.3 to say 2.9 or lower.
Is this the right way to gear the motor as per your suggestion.

I just want to make sure I am gearing the right way before I run the TP 17.5 motor again.

Many thanks.
No you want to be somewhere around 3.5-3.6 FDR with the red rotor @ 35* timing. If you go with the blue rotor then you can go 3.3 - 3.4.
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:51 PM   #528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill K View Post
Recently purchased one of these motors for 17.5 boosted state titles approaching.

Currently I am running a 6.25 FDR, with somewhat 40 degrees of boost and 30 degrees turbo on the new HW v3.1 ESC. I have 20 degrees of motor timing on the endbell using the red rotor, and from my experience this thing rocks!

Although, after every run it has a very strong smell to the motor, it performs very well, but I still want some more performance out of it to keep up with some of the faster racers. After a 6 minute run the motor comes off at about 70C with a heat sink and fan, and only once after a 15m run did it come of at 95C (Absolute borderline!!).

For about a 50m straight, this is the only area lacking competitive racing, as a few (not all) racers are alot faster. Can anyone suggest some HW settings that would maybe increase the performance? Or should I be going down on settings and changing timing or FDR?
Try this with a blue rotor:

Boost Timing: 40
BT Start RPM: 6000
BT End RPM: 19500
BT Slope: Linear
BT by TH: NO
Turbo Timing: 24 Degrees
Turbo Activation: FULL THROTTLE
Full Throttle Delay: 0.1s
Turbo Start RPM: 20,000 (Not needed)
TT Eng Slope: 24 Degree/0.1
TT Disengage: 6 Degree/0.1

Motor End bell timing = 20 degrees

FDR = 5.90
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:56 AM   #529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderPowerRC View Post
Try this with a blue rotor:

Boost Timing: 40
BT Start RPM: 6000
BT End RPM: 19500
BT Slope: Linear
BT by TH: NO
Turbo Timing: 24 Degrees
Turbo Activation: FULL THROTTLE
Full Throttle Delay: 0.1s
Turbo Start RPM: 20,000 (Not needed)
TT Eng Slope: 24 Degree/0.1
TT Disengage: 6 Degree/0.1

Motor End bell timing = 20 degrees

FDR = 5.90
Alright, thankyou!

Also, what about for say, a 20m straight and really technical inside?
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:24 AM   #530
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Originally Posted by ThunderPowerRC View Post
No you want to be somewhere around 3.5-3.6 FDR with the red rotor @ 35* timing. If you go with the blue rotor then you can go 3.3 - 3.4.
Trying to get my head round this, red rotor is the std rotor (RPM/torque) I thought blue was rpm rotor & green was a torque rotor.

Surely if you run a blue rotor (RPM) the fdr should go the other way to say 3.7 to 3.8 as you will loose the pull out of the corners & 3.3 - 3.4 would suit the green (torque) rotor as that will have more grunt to run a higher ratio?

Or is my thinking totally wrong?
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:34 AM   #531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry_Hughes View Post
Trying to get my head round this, red rotor is the std rotor (RPM/torque) I thought blue was rpm rotor & green was a torque rotor.

Surely if you run a blue rotor (RPM) the fdr should go the other way to say 3.7 to 3.8 as you will loose the pull out of the corners & 3.3 - 3.4 would suit the green (torque) rotor as that will have more grunt to run a higher ratio?

Or is my thinking totally wrong?
Blue is labled as 'Torque' (and is the same diameter as the red, but the magnetic material is about 1mm longer), the Green is 'Hi-Torque' (same length as the Blue but 0.2mm larger diameter.)
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:40 AM   #532
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Hi ThunderPowerRC.

Fantastic, thanks for letting me know the correct gearing to start of with + the timing for the 17.5 TP motor with std. red rotor.

I will run it again as per your suggestions.

Many thanks
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:09 PM   #533
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Blue is labled as 'Torque' (and is the same diameter as the red, but the magnetic material is about 1mm longer), the Green is 'Hi-Torque' (same length as the Blue but 0.2mm larger diameter.)
Cheers Damien, that does make sense then, I was told blue was an rpm rotor that was wrong then!
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Old 08-02-2013, 04:04 PM   #534
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I have a thunder power z3r n4.5t but now the Purple Ring has come from the rotor is a problem what should outsite temperature of the out site of de motor
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:14 PM   #535
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Part number P1007 outer can - does this fit the mod range of motors? I'm sure I remember reading that the mod and stock cans weren't exactly the same.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:42 PM   #536
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Part number P1007 outer can - does this fit the mod range of motors? I'm sure I remember reading that the mod and stock cans weren't exactly the same.
Can't say for certain from the part number but, you are correct that the mod and stock cans are different
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:12 AM   #537
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Part number P1007 outer can - does this fit the mod range of motors? I'm sure I remember reading that the mod and stock cans weren't exactly the same.
Interesting, from here:
http://thunderpowerrc.com/Z3RBrushlessMotors.htm

they only show the one part, with S-M after it stock/mod? but we do know that the stock and mod stators are different lengths, so I would have expected 2 different parts..
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:52 PM   #538
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Yeah that's kind of why I asked the question tbh.
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:31 PM   #539
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Part number P1007 outer can - does this fit the mod range of motors? I'm sure I remember reading that the mod and stock cans weren't exactly the same.
It only fits the stock winds. Basically, if you need a replacement can for a mod stator the can cannot be purchased separately.

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Old 08-21-2013, 12:16 PM   #540
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So, is it pretty much understood that running 17.5 TC blinky with a green rotor timing should be around 30-35 degrees?
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