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Old 08-18-2012, 08:50 AM   #316
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Originally Posted by plummers View Post
yep can confirm what skiddins said, big improvement with the green rotor in, hall was ambient at 25 degrees, motor timing at 35 and geared to 4.5 in blinky. consistent through the whole run and motor came off at 70. usually struggle to keep motor temps down but the green rotor helped alot. plummers
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Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia View Post
Thanks, I only have the green rotors and heading to the Tamiya Nationals next week. So, it sounds like your power and top speed were on pace with everyone else. That's good to know. Thanks for the reply.
Plummers was car#1 here;
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:35 PM   #317
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Default PT 13.5T Lrp Stock Spec V2

Does anyone have a good setup for a Lrp Stock Spec V2 and a TP 13.5T i boosted class?

Any good advice will be apreciated.
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:36 AM   #318
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Well in 10.5T I think I'm finding what a few people have found?, the Thunder Power seems to really like about 35 degrees timing, geared to suit, only issue I found was some fade mid race that may have been my packs.
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:07 AM   #319
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Well in 10.5T I think I'm finding what a few people have found?, the Thunder Power seems to really like about 35 degrees timing, geared to suit, only issue I found was some fade mid race that may have been my packs.
What rotor, ESC and timing settings?
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:35 AM   #320
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
What rotor, ESC and timing settings?
Zero/Blinky ESC, stock rotor, around 5.0 FDR, and the motor just seems to come alive a bit at around the 35 degree end bell timing mark.

I'm not running a cooling fan though, maybe come summer, but it's generally cool on track right now.
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Old 08-21-2012, 04:33 AM   #321
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I misaligned the stator in the motor can and can't get the stator back out or turned slightly to align the screws I can't get the stator to move at all and can't figure out how to extract it without destroying the plastic.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:43 AM   #322
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Have you tried unscrewing the timing screws, might allow a bit of movement as the rear bearing etc will no longer be a snug fit.

I don't eally understand how you've managed to do that as there isn't much room for mis-alignment.

Skiddins
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:54 AM   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Have you tried unscrewing the timing screws, might allow a bit of movement as the rear bearing etc will no longer be a snug fit.

I don't eally understand how you've managed to do that as there isn't much room for mis-alignment.

Skiddins
Timing sensor and rotor are removed. The stator is just a bit off skew to align the screws and I can't turn it at all without completely destroying the plastic.
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:22 AM   #324
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Originally Posted by BrodieMan View Post
Timing sensor and rotor are removed. The stator is just a bit off skew to align the screws and I can't turn it at all without completely destroying the plastic.
I have used a 3mm wrench to push the stator out from the front side of the motor, sometimes they do get jammed.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:59 AM   #325
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Thank you for your responses and tips.

Unfortunately for me the stator is stuck in the can something serious Hopefully I can salvage the can, the stator is not going to survive the extraction

Lesson learned: Take more time rebuilding my motors.
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Old 08-26-2012, 02:37 AM   #326
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My 10.5 smell bad after running, is it normal ?

The temperature didn't excess 70 celcius
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Old 08-26-2012, 02:49 AM   #327
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My 10.5 smell bad after running, is it normal ?

The temperature didn't excess 70 celcius
Apparently there's a gasket inside which melts, which causes the bad smell.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:15 AM   #328
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My 10.5 smelt a little odd after it's first few runs, then the smell went away, no idea what it was, figured maybe some oil or coating somewhere that burns off after a while.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:32 AM   #329
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My 10.5 smell bad after running, is it normal ?

The temperature didn't excess 70 celcius
I believe what your smelling is the epoxy (when heated). Is should go away after a while or at least not be so potent.
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:01 AM   #330
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Have been running boosted 13.5 and have been experimenting with the Green 'Hi-Torque' rotor.
It appears to pull well with taller gearing.

Anyone tried the green rotor yet?

I notice that a lot of people say to gear for rev's, but everytime I have done that (with all three rotors) it's a dog.
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