davedotwojo

So, I'm looking to build an absolutely stuplifyingly fast formula 1 car. The chassis' that I'm choosing from are the HPI Formula Ten (completely aluminumed out), and the Tamiya F104 PRO Black Special.

Whichever chassis I decide to go with will be sporting a Team Checkpoint 2.5T, a Traxxas 2.4GHz radio system, an HPI Drift stabilizer, and I can't decide on an ESC.

The 3 that I have found (and am considering) are the Mamba Max Pro, Tekin RS Pro, and the Novak Kinetic 2S (no I will not even consider the Velineon). All 3 have no motor limit (a major pre-rec), and can be programmed.

My biggest question: Will the Mamba even come close to fitting in either chassis without cutting a hole in the body? It's the cheapest and seems to be the most programmable, but it is also the biggest and heaviest. I know it sounds weird, but I am much less opposed to cutting up the chassis than I am the body.

PS: If I do end up going with the HPI, I will be putting foams on it after I completely roast the rubbers.

tunerjetta29

iTrader: (6)

Post video

F1 , little setup knowledge, low turn motor, traxxas controller = fun to watch

Timbulb

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure you could even fit the fan from the MMP in an HPI F10

Timbulb

iTrader: (2)

x2!

timmig

iTrader: (25)

I'd go with the Tekin RS--it's proven and will fit. I would NOT go with an HPI for the platform---but that's up to you. The F 104 will handle the power better--or the F 109 from 3 racing would be better.
Let us see what you end up with.

PaintVagrant

iTrader: (6)

Also, cutting holes in the chassis to fit electronics

Funky

iTrader: (28)

I was barely able to wedge a Novak Havok Pro into my F104 Pro. I had to remove the spacers from the cooling ran and mount it on it's side. It just barely cleared the body. I had it paired up with a Ballistic 6.5. I will tell you now it was a bad idea. I never even got over half throttle on that car before it was so crazy fast that I would lose control. I tried all of the different tires that Tamiya makes for the F104, all of the upgrades Tamiya offers for the car, all 3 T-bars and both rear wings but nothing ever helped. It just couldn't handle that much power without losing control once it got going too fast. I put a 27t brushed motor in it now and it is 10 times more fun and still faster than a lot of my brushless cars. Good luck trying a 2.5t, I definately wouldn't reccomend it.... but I would reccomend the video when you try it!!!

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

^^^^^ sad but very true!! your best bet is to find an f201 since it is AWD it will handle the power much better. do you plan on running on a track or just bashing around the street?

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

I'd look into an F103 instead- I would not go with the HPI.

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

For crying out loud don't put it on my street! The bashing will happen on its own and very quick...some reassembly required. Try to find a banked oval bicycle track if you can and use a pancar rear wing. A 19T brushed or 13.5 brushless is about the limit and even then it will rip the side airdams off the rear wing, I've seen it done. Don't use any Tamiya style car or the Formula 10. Try one of the pancar F1's first like Corally, the old HPI, CRC or RcIndy Spitfire. Wide car, wide tires, Nascar style rubber then maybe, just maybe you won't turn it back into a kit. Everybody place your bets now. We want to see the vid of this.

Owen RaCing

iTrader: (17)

A Tekin with a 2.5?

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, there aren't enough fans in Kansas to keep a Tekin cool below 5turns. How about a trusty LRP for your self-discintigrating land missle?

JR007

I would say flag the F1 nad get a full 235mm Pan car like the RC10L2. At least they can have a chance to handle that kind of power. Maybe. If you're a fantastic driver. And it's on a banked track. And the track is prepped. And using tire additive.
I think the problem you will have with the F1, is you will just keep spinning out every time you lay down the power. You won't go too fast, just around in circles.
Still, God loves a trier, AND the vid will be fun to see

InspGadgt

An F201 will make it easier to handle the power...but you'll eat internal gears pretty quickly. The 201 had a lot of problems with gearbox flex that would cause a clicking sound under heavy breaking as the idler gears slip in the rear gear box.

If your dead set on doing it with a F1 then your best bet is one of the pan car based F1s as has been mentioned above. Otherwise I'd suggest another platform entirely...you'll get speed for less with a pan car but on a not so good surface it will be difficult to hold on to. A touring car will give you better controllability but you'll need more power to reach the higher speeds and that will cost more.

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

There was a company that made capped tires for the old road wizard that were used at the velodrome back in the day. They worked pretty good.. I could just see some new Tamiya rubbers going around a steep bank. It would probably look like it had 4 flat tires.

Gadget is right about the 201, stay away from it. It had it's day...let it rest.

Try this, get the pancar of your choice. Use the Mcallister Indy body and take the front wings off (you will need a bumper) and mount them to the bumper to keep them on at those speeds. Run any motor you can fit in it and have cameras at the ready. I hate to miss something.