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Old 01-18-2011, 07:56 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by trerc View Post
Plastic, turn the black plastic cap over and look up it it, you'll see a dimple, that's were you drill your hole.
Any photo for where should be drill? also what size of hole should be ?
Leave the hole after drill ? or put a screw ?
I tried but can't find any room for drill.
See my photo for details.
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:17 AM   #92
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Instead of drilling use a needle and make it hot. Then push it through the dimple. That is the way I made it for the TC5 and it worked without issues.
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:10 AM   #93
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Instead of drilling use a needle and make it hot. Then push it through the dimple. That is the way I made it for the TC5 and it worked without issues.
OIC, thanks
But what's behind this to make it work?
to release the air where stored between rubber cap & plastic cap?
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:29 AM   #94
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Yes. It is for pressure release and giving the shocks an equal 0% rebound. Goal is to make the car easier and more consistent to drive (sometimes zero rebound is also good for the setup ).
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:56 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi Keven!

Do you remove some screws from top deck for more flex?

Regards!
m.
I usualy keep all the screws in ! Sometimes I will run without the 2 screws (button head) right behind the spur gear.

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Hy Kevin: Thanks for the response useful info. I guess we're getting to watered down in on road racing with so many classes. Also no matter what trends come and go in the r/c hobby 12th pan car always seems to survive. Thanks
No problem ! anytime

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Originally Posted by mos-leung View Post
Any photo for where should be drill? also what size of hole should be ?
Leave the hole after drill ? or put a screw ?
I tried but can't find any room for drill.
See my photo for details.
As mentionned, it should be drilled in the black pastic cap ! 1mm is big enough.


Starting monday I will be in florida for the Snowbird nationals, So I am not sure how much internet access I will have but I will do my best to answer questions on here.
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Old 01-21-2011, 12:14 PM   #96
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Kevin, really looking forward to watching you in the birds next week. I am also using a TC6 and would love to get some tips from you. Don't worry, I will be running the 17.5 touring amateur class. Hope to meet you and have some chat time.

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Old 01-21-2011, 03:13 PM   #97
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On the 12r5.1 you normally run the front brace. I noticed on some of the team drivers setup sheets, they remove the front brace. Does anybody know why they would remove the front brace?
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:25 AM   #98
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Starting monday I will be in florida for the Snowbird nationals, So I am not sure how much internet access I will have but I will do my best to answer questions on here.
GO KEVIN ,we are routing for you and all AE drivers.
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:06 PM   #99
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Hi Kevin,

I have a box stock 12R5.1 which I run on our indoor asphalt track. Found it to work well with Xceed hard fronts and Medium rears, front brace removed. My question is, how do I setup the car to take the corners 'rounder'?

If I'm entering a corner or making a steering correction, the car wants to cut into the corner too eagerly, either on or off power. I only sauce the rears with the intention for the car to push a bit, but still the same effect.

We're trying to get a 1/12th class going on here and though the car is really quick, it's very hard to drive it consistently with the current configuration. Ordered all the available springs for the car so suggestions would be greatly appreciated
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Old 01-23-2011, 08:56 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billlance View Post
Kevin, really looking forward to watching you in the birds next week. I am also using a TC6 and would love to get some tips from you. Don't worry, I will be running the 17.5 touring amateur class. Hope to meet you and have some chat time.

Bill Lance
yes for sure always nice to meet new people ! I will be there for any question you may have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by idbdoug View Post
On the 12r5.1 you normally run the front brace. I noticed on some of the team drivers setup sheets, they remove the front brace. Does anybody know why they would remove the front brace?
idbdoug
hmm usualy I will remove the front brace in low traction condition as it seems to geve the car more steering but when the traction is high I like the brace better, makes the car easier to drive.

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GO KEVIN ,we are routing for you and all AE drivers.
Thanks !! Appreciate

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeygar View Post
Hi Kevin,

I have a box stock 12R5.1 which I run on our indoor asphalt track. Found it to work well with Xceed hard fronts and Medium rears, front brace removed. My question is, how do I setup the car to take the corners 'rounder'?

If I'm entering a corner or making a steering correction, the car wants to cut into the corner too eagerly, either on or off power. I only sauce the rears with the intention for the car to push a bit, but still the same effect.

We're trying to get a 1/12th class going on here and though the car is really quick, it's very hard to drive it consistently with the current configuration. Ordered all the available springs for the car so suggestions would be greatly appreciated
The one thing you could try is maybe smaller tires ? Also I think my setup from the outdoor paved nats is on the associateds website and that would be a good starting point. If it still does it, you can also try a softer side spring.
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Old 01-23-2011, 09:33 PM   #101
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Keven,
Now that the SXX Stock Spec V.2 is being released to the distributors, can you give a little feedback on how it ran for you in testing, how it compared to the MKIII and MKIV versions, as well as how it works for modified if you tried it.

Do you feel comfortable that the cogging, as well as all other issues with the previous versions are a thing of the past?


Thanks!
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:23 PM   #102
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Hi Kevin, Could you elaborate on why you think the 1.0,1.0,1.5mm piston hole setup works better for you than say 1,1,1? More specifically what do you like better as far as how the car "feels" on the track?

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:48 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
The one thing you could try is maybe smaller tires ? Also I think my setup from the outdoor paved nats is on the associateds website and that would be a good starting point. If it still does it, you can also try a softer side spring.
thanks Keven! will try truing the tires some more and a softer side spring. Appreciate it! Will update here with my findings.

cheers!
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:24 PM   #104
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kevin

when u race1/12 asphalt whatfoams do u use.. and do u use different componds in mod an stock.. also what traction compound do u use and how do u apply it
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:08 PM   #105
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Hey sexy,

What rotor do you run in the 4.0 in your 12th scale?
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