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Old 02-06-2013, 08:00 PM   #616
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Do you run front droop on your 1/12 scale? What droop setting would you use for outdoor asphalt?

Right now the car has maybe 1-2 mm of droop (i.e gap between the lower e-clip and spring). Should I remove this gap by using spacers or leave it as is?

Thanks again for all your help.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:45 PM   #617
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What style of track do u prefer U.S. or euro?
Hi, sorry for the long delay in my reply. I can't say I really prefer one over the other. I seem to perform better on us style track because this is what I am most comfortable on, but Euro style track are also a lot of fun.

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Do you run front droop on your 1/12 scale? What droop setting would you use for outdoor asphalt?

Right now the car has maybe 1-2 mm of droop (i.e gap between the lower e-clip and spring). Should I remove this gap by using spacers or leave it as is?

Thanks again for all your help.

Hi,

I usualy never run over 1mm of droop. In most cases, I take droop out 0.5 to even no front droop to make the car easier to drive. I think a car with a little more front droop oversteer for me on hign bite track but can be very good on lower bite tracks. I would for sure put spacer and then measure with wheels on and at right height on much droop you have over right height. Usualy 1mm is quite a bit but can be good on lower bite. Let me know if you need any other information.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:36 PM   #618
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Hi Kevin

I have a question about car setup.
My car tends to traction roll before entering the straightaway, and only this corner the car wants to roll over. My car is running on asphalt with rubber tire. What would you do if you have something like this happening?

thanks~~~
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:43 PM   #619
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Originally Posted by formosa008 View Post
Hi Kevin

I have a question about car setup.
My car tends to traction roll before entering the straightaway, and only this corner the car wants to roll over. My car is running on asphalt with rubber tire. What would you do if you have something like this happening?

thanks~~~
I believe he needs more info than just the car tractions rolling i.e: What car, current setup etc....
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:46 PM   #620
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my car is actually working really good...just when traction goes really high...it tends to traction roll before I enter the straight...i think i just need a small fine tune to make the car work better..

my car is arc r10 btw
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:47 PM   #621
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with lrp flow and 5.5t motor
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:21 AM   #622
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Okay I know I'm not Kevin but, the with the problem you are having and the little bit of info you are giving. One can only say you may just be coming out of the corner before the straight a little to hot. If your car feels good everywhere else on the track don't change it for one section. Roll your throttle on the entry before the straight this way your car has the right attitude on entry to the straight and you can put the power down to reel in your competition on the straights.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:55 AM   #623
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Originally Posted by formosa008 View Post
Hi Kevin

I have a question about car setup.
My car tends to traction roll before entering the straightaway, and only this corner the car wants to roll over. My car is running on asphalt with rubber tire. What would you do if you have something like this happening?

thanks~~~
A small change would be to widen the car using .5mm hex spacers. You can also widen the car at the suspension mounts .5mm per side front and back.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:14 PM   #624
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Originally Posted by formosa008 View Post
Hi Kevin

I have a question about car setup.
My car tends to traction roll before entering the straightaway, and only this corner the car wants to roll over. My car is running on asphalt with rubber tire. What would you do if you have something like this happening?

thanks~~~

Hi,

I think there are a few things you could try bit It could also hurt in some other area. Traction rolling can also be cause by a sudden weight transfer, and here are a few thing to prevent your car from traction rolling, first thing I would do is lower the outside ball on the front link to reduce camber gain by a small amount like .5mm. Also, you could try making the front link longer but that might pick up a push. Then if that is no good for you , you could also lay your shocks down 1 hole on the tower front and rear. Also like rick mentionned, you could make the front end slightly wider at the hex would be more benificial I think.

Here are a few things you can play with.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:48 PM   #625
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Last edited by jha07; 02-20-2013 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:30 AM   #626
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I have posted this question here,( Team Associated TC6 Thread) but without any reply.
This is a question:
" I have a question about Arm Mount. I noticed a lot of gap in the Arm Mount hole where the hinge pin is insert in them, this also after fews race.
This gap is more or less higher and different for each supply where I buy.
Is normal or not?
The "PPD Billet" is good, but do not have the choice of new offset and not easy to set up.
Any help is appreciated"

I can help.

Thks
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:47 AM   #627
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Originally Posted by 20967 View Post
I have posted this question here,( Team Associated TC6 Thread) but without any reply.
This is a question:
" I have a question about Arm Mount. I noticed a lot of gap in the Arm Mount hole where the hinge pin is insert in them, this also after fews race.
This gap is more or less higher and different for each supply where I buy.
Is normal or not?
The "PPD Billet" is good, but do not have the choice of new offset and not easy to set up.
Any help is appreciated"

I can help.

Thks
Enrico
Hello Enrico,

I did noticed as well but usualy the aluminum insert are all the same lenght or you can also measure to make sure but when you tighten the arm mount onto the bulkhead, I usualy tight it untile I can feel the alumum insert touching the bulkhead so at this point the gap does not matter anymore if that make sens !
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:30 AM   #628
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I dont know if anyone has asked this before but I noticed that you run kick up on your setup. What are the benifits and do you change the caster settings when you do this or do you leave the at 4 deg? I was under the impresion that this would make the front of a TC nose happy but very good on bumppy tracks.
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Last edited by JustWill75; 02-22-2013 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:54 AM   #629
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Originally Posted by JustWill75 View Post
I dont know if anyone has asked this before but I noticed that you run kick up on your setup. What are the benifits and do you change the caster settings when you do this or do you leave the at 4 deg? I was under the impresion that this would make the front of a TC nose happy but very good on bumppy tracks.

In most of my recent setup I have been running anti diver, opposite of kickup in the front ! 0B on the rear mount of the front arm and 3A on the front mount of the front arm ! It gives you about 1 degree of anti dive and then I run 6 degree of caster. I like this combination the best in most case. It gives me more steering than 4 degree and also makes my car more stable under braking.
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:07 PM   #630
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
Hello Enrico,

I did noticed as well but usualy the aluminum insert are all the same lenght or you can also measure to make sure but when you tighten the arm mount onto the bulkhead, I usualy tight it untile I can feel the alumum insert touching the bulkhead so at this point the gap does not matter anymore if that make sens !
Sorry Keven, but I was referring to this. I have a gap in this point
Any tip ?



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