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Old 12-18-2012, 09:29 AM   #586
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Keven,

On your Mod 1/12 car, do you use any drag brake to slow for the corners or is it a combination of chassis setup / tire choice / manual brakes?
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:45 AM   #587
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Keven,

On your Mod 1/12 car, do you use any drag brake to slow for the corners or is it a combination of chassis setup / tire choice / manual brakes?
Asked, and answered a few pages back

"In 1/12, the lrp motor is very powerfull so I would start with a mild setup on the esc. I would probably start at 25/96 for gear, and would use 4/0/3/2/5/0/0 for esc setting and see how it works from there. The first mode is drag brake I put 4 just as a starting point but this is really a drivers preference and even from motor to motor it could differ so that will need to be adjusted again I would guess. "
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:08 AM   #588
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Thanks RBF, its even relevant because I run the same ESC.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:11 PM   #589
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Keven,

On your Mod 1/12 car, do you use any drag brake to slow for the corners or is it a combination of chassis setup / tire choice / manual brakes?
Also this:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Marx View Post
hi keven!!
very great show at the IIC! Congratulation!

May I ask you to indicate your Flow speedo setup in 1/12th scale?
I'm interested to understand the setup did you use in Las Vesas and Heemstede.
I can't find them anywhere.
TY
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Originally Posted by Keven H

Marx
Thank you. There is 2 setting I know works great. With the LRP motor 4.0, I used the Spec rotor that comes in the spec motor, not the works one. That seemed to be the fastest and most efficient. Than for ESC setting, I run a lot of drag brake so that you would have to adjust to your liking but here it go : 7/1/3/3/7/1/0 and with Reedy Motor 3.5 stock rotor, I ran 7/3/0/4/8/2/0
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:21 PM   #590
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Originally Posted by rosko View Post
Im running a low roll center on my a-arms 3a all around with shortest camber link with vertical mounts would lowering my whole link down equally give me less roll or more im thinking less but, not 100% sure this is for front and rear
Hi,

Lowering the whole link keeping the same angle, will raise the roll center, the difference seems to be less of an impact as lowering the bottom roll center but still is noticable for sure.

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Originally Posted by valk View Post
Question;

Will the 5.2 rear pod bulkheads work with the 5.1 lipo conversion? I ask because i have a 10r5 im vulturing a lot of
Parts to make a second 12th scale from. Just need 12th main chassis and rear hubs but with the 5.1 lipo upper brace id have no crossbrace in the rear. Could i use the newest ones? Ie, did the upper and lower plate holes move?
The 5.2 bulkead has the same geometrie as the older 5.1 but is different since it had the rear brace on it to make sure it does not twist as hard. To answer your question the 5.2 bulkhead and brace, will work with the 5.1 lipo conversion. both bottom and top plate should be the same ! on the 5.1 lipo converstion and 5.1 ! Let me know if you have any questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Keven,

On your Mod 1/12 car, do you use any drag brake to slow for the corners or is it a combination of chassis setup / tire choice / manual brakes?

hope you found all the information you needed, please feel free to ask if you would like to know any additional information.
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:01 PM   #591
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Hey Kevin, are you coming to speedweekend in vic this January?
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:07 AM   #592
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Keven,

I have two touring car mod questions for you, if you don't mind

On the front lower A arm mounts, if the hinge pin had been flat before but you wanted to add some anti-dive by going to a mount that would raise the rear mounting point of the front arm, to the next higher mount....In your thinking did the roll center stay the same as before if no other changes were made?


Second question, also Mod TC. On a high bite carpet track as the traction increases, what would you do to help prevent the car from diving down in the front at the end of a long straight? The rear tire might be lifting. Do you have some suggestions.

Thanks Keven,
Steve
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:57 PM   #593
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
Hi Michal,

My body is about 3.5mm forward of the bumper when running Mazda speed 6 ! 6mm seems like quite a bit but im sure it can work.
Was there any method that led you to decide on 3.5mmish between bumper and body also do you put foam or anything between the bumper and body or just let it be? Thank you!
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:45 PM   #594
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Originally Posted by jsamarin View Post
Hey Kevin, are you coming to speedweekend in vic this January?
Hi, unfortunately I will not be able to make it this year. I was hoping so but I am trying to attend one of the wics series race this season or early next season, looks like you guys have a good group going and a great series.

Quote:
Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
Keven,

I have two touring car mod questions for you, if you don't mind

On the front lower A arm mounts, if the hinge pin had been flat before but you wanted to add some anti-dive by going to a mount that would raise the rear mounting point of the front arm, to the next higher mount....In your thinking did the roll center stay the same as before if no other changes were made?


Second question, also Mod TC. On a high bite carpet track as the traction increases, what would you do to help prevent the car from diving down in the front at the end of a long straight? The rear tire might be lifting. Do you have some suggestions.

Thanks Keven,
Steve
Hi Steve,

adding anti-dive by raising the rear block will raise the roll center by half a step, you can think of it by the height of the center of the hinge pin if that makes sens !

for your second question, there are numerous things you can do to keep the car from rolling over the front, one of the first think usualy when the car gets hard to drive, I like to go to a thicker front shock oil but that is with the setup I ran. adding shim to the inner front link will generaly help, reducing caster will help as well, you can also just take some rear droop out and that will help the car from not diving to the nose and be hard to drive mid corner. these are the things I generaly play with.

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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Was there any method that led you to decide on 3.5mmish between bumper and body also do you put foam or anything between the bumper and body or just let it be? Thank you!
To be honest, I have not played much with that in a long time and have had my body like that for the last 2 years or so on carpet. I have had it a little forward like that for a long time but I dont think 1mm off of that makes much difference. when mounting a new body, I try to make it as close as the previous one for consistency but usualy end up about 1mm off of that anyway so I try not to take that too much into concideration. I Like to use foam so the body does not move around because otherwise you have to cut so much of the lip for it to not drag.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:03 PM   #595
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Thank you Keven, that was exactly what I was looking for.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:15 PM   #596
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Thanks for the tips, your answers are always very helpful.

Steve
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:12 PM   #597
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Hi, unfortunately I will not be able to make it this year. I was hoping so but I am trying to attend one of the wics series race this season or early next season, looks like you guys have a good group going and a great series.
You'll wish you had!
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:53 PM   #598
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hey keven - thanks for coming out to horsham last weekend. have a happy new year dude! -fj
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:50 PM   #599
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Default 5.2 Front track width???

Hi Keven, I noticed on the 12R5.2 set up sheets that some have the "upper" arm mounts spaced out 2mm and "lower" arms spaced 2mm; the upper link is lengthened either way. What is the handling difference? is one method preferred over the other?

Thanks in advance!!
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:46 AM   #600
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Originally Posted by arn671 View Post
Hi Keven, I noticed on the 12R5.2 set up sheets that some have the "upper" arm mounts spaced out 2mm and "lower" arms spaced 2mm; the upper link is lengthened either way. What is the handling difference? is one method preferred over the other?

Thanks in advance!!

Hi,

In most case having a wider front end will make the car push more. Now the longer the upper link, the easier the car is to drive going in but will generaly push a little more as well. I have been running 2mm on the upper arm and half a mm on the lower arm so the upper arm is spaced out 2.5mm from stock position. I feel like making the bottom arm any longer made my car push a little more going in but yet was not any easier to drive. I prefer to make the car wider on the axle and leave the top and bottom arm alone in most case that has been better for me, felt easier to drive and did not loose as much steering.
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