Ask Keven Hebert, TeamAssociated / Reedy / ApexRC
#572
Tech Adept
top arms
I can answer that one Adrian as I have just done it to both my cars.On the 1/12th car I improved my lap times by 0.19 of sec .Car held the sweepers better and kept its lines. No sign of push ,certainly smoother. I fitted a brace also to the top arms .Apperently the brace from car r5.1 fits I made my own.
#573
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I can answer that one Adrian as I have just done it to both my cars.On the 1/12th car I improved my lap times by 0.19 of sec .Car held the sweepers better and kept its lines. No sign of push ,certainly smoother. I fitted a brace also to the top arms .Apperently the brace from car r5.1 fits I made my own.
I have my 10R5.1 set up with the 2mm spacers for tomorrow night. My track is Med/High grip and my setup is really good there so if I can drop my lap times I will be stoked!
#574
Tech Master
Kevin, have you ever tested spacers on the front axle vs spacers against the arm mount?? so keeping the overall front width the same, but effectively altering the wishbone length / king pin position relative to the wheel.
#575
I was curious what Keven had to say as I would imagine it is a mod to smooth out the car in high grip conditions, not all conditions. I wouldn't imagine it would increase steering as it reduces camber gain. However, it also slightly lowers the roll center and that would make the car roll/transfer weight more.
I have my 10R5.1 set up with the 2mm spacers for tomorrow night. My track is Med/High grip and my setup is really good there so if I can drop my lap times I will be stoked!
I have my 10R5.1 set up with the 2mm spacers for tomorrow night. My track is Med/High grip and my setup is really good there so if I can drop my lap times I will be stoked!
Yes I tested that. I think the shorter top arm on lower bit will give you more turn in and more responsive ! the main reason why I changed to that was too make the car smoother to drive on high bite and honestly when I did I did not loose any steering, it just was smoother going in, felt like it carried more speed through the middle of the turn and I could drive the car harder. I tend to like a car that finishes the turn really good but can be driven hard going in so that seemed to be the best for me ! I have not gone back and forth in a while now, I have been running my car like that for almost a year now. Let me know if that is what you find.
when making the car wider at the arm mount, it will stiffen the car up a little and will make the car more responsive harder to drive in a sens. I beleive with the same width, a car wider at the arms will be more edgy than a car wider at the hex only. You have to keep in mind that you change more than just the width when changing the arm mount spacer because you also changed the shock location, the upper link. but in general this is what I have found !
#577
Hi Craig,
last time I ran 17.5 with boost was at snowbird last february ! I looked at a setup and I ran 30 degree timing with 35/105 for gear and est settings were for software 4.4 and I had 0/10/10/1 ! keep in mind this is on a fairly tight indoor track !
Keven
#579
Tech Master
Kevin, oops, I was thinking on 12th scale, but didn't actually mention that!!
#580
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Hi Adrian,
Yes I tested that. I think the shorter top arm on lower bit will give you more turn in and more responsive ! the main reason why I changed to that was too make the car smoother to drive on high bite and honestly when I did I did not loose any steering, it just was smoother going in, felt like it carried more speed through the middle of the turn and I could drive the car harder. I tend to like a car that finishes the turn really good but can be driven hard going in so that seemed to be the best for me ! I have not gone back and forth in a while now, I have been running my car like that for almost a year now. Let me know if that is what you find.
Yes I tested that. I think the shorter top arm on lower bit will give you more turn in and more responsive ! the main reason why I changed to that was too make the car smoother to drive on high bite and honestly when I did I did not loose any steering, it just was smoother going in, felt like it carried more speed through the middle of the turn and I could drive the car harder. I tend to like a car that finishes the turn really good but can be driven hard going in so that seemed to be the best for me ! I have not gone back and forth in a while now, I have been running my car like that for almost a year now. Let me know if that is what you find.
It would be cool to see you and the rest of the team run the 10R5.1 against Team CRC, Team SpeedMerchant and Josh and his CEFX at the Snowbirds. Race on Sunday....sell on Monday right!
#583
My body is about 3.5mm forward of the bumper when running Mazda speed 6 ! 6mm seems like quite a bit but im sure it can work.
#584
Im running a low roll center on my a-arms 3a all around with shortest camber link with vertical mounts would lowering my whole link down equally give me less roll or more im thinking less but, not 100% sure this is for front and rear
#585
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Question;
Will the 5.2 rear pod bulkheads work with the 5.1 lipo conversion? I ask because i have a 10r5 im vulturing a lot of
Parts to make a second 12th scale from. Just need 12th main chassis and rear hubs but with the 5.1 lipo upper brace id have no crossbrace in the rear. Could i use the newest ones? Ie, did the upper and lower plate holes move?
Will the 5.2 rear pod bulkheads work with the 5.1 lipo conversion? I ask because i have a 10r5 im vulturing a lot of
Parts to make a second 12th scale from. Just need 12th main chassis and rear hubs but with the 5.1 lipo upper brace id have no crossbrace in the rear. Could i use the newest ones? Ie, did the upper and lower plate holes move?